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Posted: 12/10/2018 12:08:36 AM EDT
I've searched and looked through the DIY forum and do not see a thread that answers this, so....
Every online "review" and head-to-head" that I read leaves me wondering if they are sponsored by one or the other manufacturer. I rehab old houses. Old houses here are oak and poplar mostly. 70-180 years old. The buildings in my region don't go much older than that, unless they're the remnants of log cabins. This is different from new construction. Old houses eat tools. Builders who deal with only yellow pine do not understand what happens to a tool when it faces 150-year-old oak. Even before I was doing other peoples' houses, because I had good mentors, I was aware that my tools (especially if they were cutting tools) could not be cheap (my house is 170 years old). So I buy the best cutting tools I can afford. But that's corded. Time to change. I don't have any significant investment in a cordless system, and the time has come that I must buy into a system, instead of just picking and choosing particular tools (which I do with corded tools, based on what's the best for me.) So.... I've looked hard at the Milwaukee FUEL and the Dewalt 20v Max and 60v Max. I include both the 20 and 60v Dewalt in my consideration of the systems because there are a number of those 20v tools which will run on the big battery but honestly don't need the 60v punch. That increases the options. I don't see much price difference between the FUEL and the 60v Dewalt. HOWEVER, the 20v Max from Dewalt, which can take the 60v Flexvolt batteries, increases the line a lot. I wonder if I'm missing something from Milwaukee in this regard? Framing saws need power. Drills and angle drills need power, for me, because of the wood they're going through. Reciprocating saws...I'm in the "I'll believe it when I see it" camp, but maybe the big batteries can power through the wood and nails in these old houses. I don't know. Brushless motors and big batteries seem to be game changers from everything I'm reading. Normally, with a corded tool, I would fondle the thing, see which one was lighter and felt good in the hand. Which one was more friendly to a small person (I'm 5' tall, 120 lbs, and female.) I don't really have that option because these tools (with batteries) are not on the shelves at the stores I'm shopping. Do any of you have experience that would help me choose? I'm truly on the fence and would love to know what you have seen and what you think of these two systems. FYI, if it matters, I'm in Southern Kentucky, which may sound like a warm climate, but we go from 105 degrees in midsummer to 20 below in the winter. I'm sometimes working in unheated spaces, which can matter for batteries. This is a lot of money for me, and a commitment to a system. So.... Thanks VERY MUCH in advance for any experience and information you can offer. ~~Kitties ETA: I've seen Ryobi and Makita, and Ridgid tools bog down repeatedly on my job sites, cuz a few of my subs have brought those in. Awesome tools, but not for this environment, so I'm not considering those. |
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[#1]
I use Milwaukee at work and really like them. The M12 FUEL line will out power the 18 volt stuff from not that long ago, M18 FUEL is awesome. My little impact driver will power big spade bits and drive heavy lag bolts very well and my FUEL hammer drill bores holes in concrete or brick just fine. I don’t have much use for corded stuff anymore and if I could get my hands on a FUEL SDS rotary hammer I wouldn’t need anything corded.
Instead of buying a whole fleet of tools why not buy one, say the reciprocating saw that you’re really unsure of, and see how it does? |
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[#2]
Quoted:
I use Milwaukee at work and really like them. The M12 FUEL line will out power the 18 volt stuff from not that long ago, M18 FUEL is awesome. My little impact driver will power big spade bits and drive heavy lag bolts very well and my FUEL hammer drill bores holes in concrete or brick just fine. I don’t have much use for corded stuff anymore and if I could get my hands on a FUEL SDS rotary hammer I wouldn’t need anything corded. Instead of buying a whole fleet of tools why not buy one, say the reciprocating saw that you’re really unsure of, and see how it does? View Quote The cost of the tools plus batteries for the new systems make it advantageous to buy into a system. The "kits" that are offered by both systems (more for Dewalt, honestly) are an incentive. I can get several tools and batteries for half the price of buying tools, batteries and charger individually. I admit that for every tool I've had to buy in the last 18 months (corded) I've looked at the options and ended up with Milwaukee. They just kick butt. Still...with the cordless systems, Dewalt seems to be breaking down doors to do things right. So I'm trying to not be prejudiced toward a color. Seriously if I can get more tools for the money, and equal performance, I figure I'm dumb to not ask. |
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[#3]
Ford vs Chevy
Look across the line up of both brands, and pick which has more tools you would use. I chose yellow, but have a spattering of red too. |
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[#4]
I don’t think you will enjoy cutting old oak with a cordless. As you know, that stuff is hard.
I like Milwaukee, if that matters. |
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[#5]
The Milwaukee Fuel reciprocating saw will do what you want it to do, but it's not light. While I haven't compared the weights, I would say it feels as heavy, if not heavier then my corded Milwaukee saw.
If you're really doing that much cutting, maybe a cordless chainsaw is what you need. |
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[#6]
I went with Milwaukee for all my cordless stuff and couldnt be happier. With that said some of the guys i work with went with dewalt and they are just as happy. I dont think you can go wrong with either.
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[#7]
I’ve gone Milwaukee though I’m not a pro. From my research both dewalt and Milwaukee will do very well. You may need to keep several batteries in rotation as hard seasoned wood works the cordless stuff pretty hard. That said for saws the blades make a huge difference in performance (as I’m sure you know). My recip saw walks through seasoned hardwood like a turbo termite with good blades. My little impact driver is a beast and the fuel version has another 25 ft lbs of grunt.
One nice thing I’ve noticed with my Milwaukee stuff is it recharges quickly. When demolishing and rebuilding my deck I could not out run the charger. |
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[#8]
Besides my few Sawzalls, I have a m18 fuel impact driver with the hydraulic impact driver, and for what I do, working on cars / general fabrication it's awesome, the impacts can be turned all the way down to use a small Torx bit for removing a diffuser, ir it can knock off a wheel that is put on at 90lbs..
Like you, I needed to hitch my wagon to a particular brand for battery commonality, and really like the Milwaukee stuff, it just seems cutting edge, or tier1... |
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[#9]
I love the flexibility of the DeWalt 60V Flex Volt. I run a 60V framing saw and a 60V angle grinder. Love the power station which turns four batteries into a battery generator to run 110V stuff.
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[#10]
My best friend has been doing construction for 24 years. He and his entire crew all run Dewalt. He has a mix of 60V and 20V gear.
His tools get used hard and he loves them. I went with M18 Fuel. I abuse them hard a few days a week doing side work. Two years ago M18 had more tools in their lineup. That has been narrowing. The Dewalt worm drive cordless circular kicks the Milwaukee’s ass. |
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[#11]
FWIW.....look on Ebay for your batteries if you go yellow. I have most of the 20v dewalt line. 20v 5ah batts are easily found for $50 shipped. You can't beat that price. I dont have any Milwaukee tools so I can't comment there.
Heck even the tool only on Ebay. Just bought a nib dewalt 20v recip saw for $60 shipped. $120 in the store. . |
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[#12]
Every Milwaukee tool I have ever owned heats up extremely hot when under a lot of use especially my recip saw, Corded and cordless tools both. The Milwaukee tools also seems bigger and heavier vs dewalt it seems, which isn’t bad necessarily, but getting into tight spots and stuff is more difficult. We buy dewalt for work/home, and the new 20v batteries are awesome. The big 20v batteries 5-6amp/hr seem to last almost a month between charges when used on the impact drill which we use all the time. I want to try out one of the 60v string trimmers for lawn maintenance soon.
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[#13]
I've had them all in the last 20 years. Started with Makita back when they were huge but had the strongest clutches on the market, switched to DeWalt because they were stronger, upgraded the dewalts for bigger batteries, switched to Milwaukee for the bigger kits, dropped them all to switch back to Makita when the compacts came out and they kept up with all the older cordless brands......yesterday I needed another set on a job site and one of my guys convinced me the new Milwaukee fuel drills were stronger. He was right. I bought a 12 volt set along with the compact bandsaw and before this month is over I'll be picking up a few more sets.
I have an unbelievable collection of cordless tools I've taken out of the field. |
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[#14]
Get both. I have some of each and will not part from my M12 tools(mainly for the ratchet). I am buying more Dewalt since Milwaukee is now owned by China.
The XR series Dewalt tools are basically their Fuel line just so you can compare a bit better. I only have the Flexvolt 12" sliding miter and the table saw. The miter saw is awesome, I can crosscut 16" on that beast. The table saw is a good traveling saw. No dado stack and it used 8 1/4" blades. I do not own any of the flexvolt handheld tools, although I kinda want the big circular saw. |
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[#15]
Quoted:
Ford vs Chevy Look across the line up of both brands, and pick which has more tools you would use. I chose yellow, but have a spattering of red too. View Quote |
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[#16]
Quoted:
I don’t think you will enjoy cutting old oak with a cordless. As you know, that stuff is hard. I like Milwaukee, if that matters. View Quote |
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[#17]
Quoted:
The Milwaukee Fuel reciprocating saw will do what you want it to do, but it's not light. While I haven't compared the weights, I would say it feels as heavy, if not heavier then my corded Milwaukee saw. If you're really doing that much cutting, maybe a cordless chainsaw is what you need. View Quote I'm sorry to hear the cordless is as heavy as the corded tool (which I own and love, in red) and truthfully, the reciprocating saw will get the most, and the hardest workout of any of the tools (well, maybe not harder than the drill and driver) because of the demo component, which often lasts for days. And if a chainsaw came with that long, thin, flexible demo blade, and if those blades came in packs I could go through like water, I'd buy one! |
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[#18]
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[#19]
Quoted:
I’ve gone Milwaukee though I’m not a pro. From my research both dewalt and Milwaukee will do very well. You may need to keep several batteries in rotation as hard seasoned wood works the cordless stuff pretty hard. That said for saws the blades make a huge difference in performance (as I’m sure you know). My recip saw walks through seasoned hardwood like a turbo termite with good blades. My little impact driver is a beast and the fuel version has another 25 ft lbs of grunt. One nice thing I’ve noticed with my Milwaukee stuff is it recharges quickly. When demolishing and rebuilding my deck I could not out run the charger. View Quote Absolutely on the blades. And you know, I used to love certain brands of blades, and they seem to have gone in the tank with quality over the past few years. With all the tout, I kind of expected more from the Diablo blades on my reciprocating saw (they do great on my circular saw so far) but I got no more out of them than most of the other brands I'm used to. Maybe I'm not using the right ones. |
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[#20]
Quoted:
Besides my few Sawzalls, I have a m18 fuel impact driver with the hydraulic impact driver, and for what I do, working on cars / general fabrication it's awesome, the impacts can be turned all the way down to use a small Torx bit for removing a diffuser, ir it can knock off a wheel that is put on at 90lbs.. Like you, I needed to hitch my wagon to a particular brand for battery commonality, and really like the Milwaukee stuff, it just seems cutting edge, or tier1... View Quote |
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[#21]
Quoted:
I love the flexibility of the DeWalt 60V Flex Volt. I run a 60V framing saw and a 60V angle grinder. Love the power station which turns four batteries into a battery generator to run 110V stuff. View Quote That framing saw is one of the tools I'm ogling. I am on the fence about any battery grinder because they have always bogged down so quickly for people I hire who are using them (older versions. nobody has pulled out the Milwaukee or the FlexVolt), they always say, "do you have a corded grinder?" And I do, as of two years ago. I had never owned an angle grinder until I started trying to work with metal. Now I own three because they're useful for so many things. . But, because of my size and the jobs that they take on, I am often NOT the person using them (some things are just height and upper-body-muscle dependent, and that's not gonna change so I don't fight that. I just hand over the tool.) But when I do use them, the Dewalt grinder is by far the heavier of the three. I picked up a cordless version (20v Max) in a store the other day, and it was as heavy as the corded tool. I was kind of shocked. Other people here are saying their Milwaukee cordless tools are as heavy as the corded versions, so it looks like that's gonna be across the board. I had not seen the 110 power station but now I will have to go look at it and of course will want it. |
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[#22]
Quoted:
My best friend has been doing construction for 24 years. He and his entire crew all run Dewalt. He has a mix of 60V and 20V gear. His tools get used hard and he loves them. I went with M18 Fuel. I abuse them hard a few days a week doing side work. Two years ago M18 had more tools in their lineup. That has been narrowing. The Dewalt worm drive cordless circular kicks the Milwaukee’s ass. View Quote Interesting that Milwaukee is actually dropping some tools. Wonder if they're going to introduce something new? |
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[#23]
Quoted:
I'm sorry to hear the cordless is as heavy as the corded tool (which I own and love, in red) and truthfully, the reciprocating saw will get the most, and the hardest workout of any of the tools (well, maybe not harder than the drill and driver) because of the demo component, which often lasts for days. And if a chainsaw came with that long, thin, flexible demo blade, and if those blades came in packs I could go through like water, I'd buy one! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
The Milwaukee Fuel reciprocating saw will do what you want it to do, but it's not light. While I haven't compared the weights, I would say it feels as heavy, if not heavier then my corded Milwaukee saw. If you're really doing that much cutting, maybe a cordless chainsaw is what you need. I'm sorry to hear the cordless is as heavy as the corded tool (which I own and love, in red) and truthfully, the reciprocating saw will get the most, and the hardest workout of any of the tools (well, maybe not harder than the drill and driver) because of the demo component, which often lasts for days. And if a chainsaw came with that long, thin, flexible demo blade, and if those blades came in packs I could go through like water, I'd buy one! The bare M18 Fuel Sawzall weighs 7.4 lbs 5.0 Ah Battery 1.7 lbs Corded Milwaukee 13amp 8.8 lbs Corded Milwaukee 15amp 9.8 lbs |
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[#24]
Quoted:
FWIW.....look on Ebay for your batteries if you go yellow. I have most of the 20v dewalt line. 20v 5ah batts are easily found for $50 shipped. You can't beat that price. I dont have any Milwaukee tools so I can't comment there. Heck even the tool only on Ebay. Just bought a nib dewalt 20v recip saw for $60 shipped. $120 in the store. . View Quote |
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[#25]
Quoted:
Every Milwaukee tool I have ever owned heats up extremely hot when under a lot of use especially my recip saw, Corded and cordless tools both. The Milwaukee tools also seems bigger and heavier vs dewalt it seems, which isn’t bad necessarily, but getting into tight spots and stuff is more difficult. We buy dewalt for work/home, and the new 20v batteries are awesome. The big 20v batteries 5-6amp/hr seem to last almost a month between charges when used on the impact drill which we use all the time. I want to try out one of the 60v string trimmers for lawn maintenance soon. View Quote |
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[#26]
Quoted:
I've had them all in the last 20 years. Started with Makita back when they were huge but had the strongest clutches on the market, switched to DeWalt because they were stronger, upgraded the dewalts for bigger batteries, switched to Milwaukee for the bigger kits, dropped them all to switch back to Makita when the compacts came out and they kept up with all the older cordless brands......yesterday I needed another set on a job site and one of my guys convinced me the new Milwaukee fuel drills were stronger. He was right. I bought a 12 volt set along with the compact bandsaw and before this month is over I'll be picking up a few more sets. I have an unbelievable collection of cordless tools I've taken out of the field. View Quote I have one sub who swears by Makita, but he also cusses at my old wood. A lot. |
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[#27]
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[#28]
I went the Milwaukee route and am happy about it.
If I wake up tomorrow and someone has changed all my tools to DeWalt or mikita. I'll be smiling. I just got new tools. I just haven't seen one brand be dominate on jobsites. Once in awhile you'll run across someone that's had a bad experience with one brand or another. Mostly people like what they have. I'm sure you'll like whichever you get |
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[#29]
I'm finishing a basement and doing it myself. Framing, electrical, etcetera. I have a mix of 20V Dewalt stuff. I have two chargers and three of the 20V smaller batteries. I'm always rotating out the batteries because my impact driver eats them when framing with screws. But the batteries take about ten minutes to charge so it's fine. I also use a few drills, reciprocating saw, oscillating tool, right angle drill, circular saw, etc.
Wouldn't mind picking up a few of the bigger batteries. I also have a 20 volt adapter for some of my older 18V tools, like my reciprocating saw(Hell, the impact driver is an 18V tool that works great with the adapter). One of my things I considered when getting started was Dewalt has a service center here in Louisville. Never had to use it, but good to know it's local. |
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[#30]
If I run the batteries really hard such that they’re hot coming off the tool once or
Twice the thermal protection has kicked in and the charger will refuse to charge. They have to cool down for maybe 10 min or so and then they charge normally. As to ambient temperature I’ve worked in coolish weather 20’s/30’s as well as 90’s and can’t tell any real difference in charging time. I only have a single bay charger but it easily keeps up with my slow self. If I was using professionally I’d invest in a multibay charger so I’d always have an empty charging slot open. As far as blades go I’ve had sucky success with every brand demo blade I’ve used. Good Luck there. The Milwaukee cordless grinder doesn’t have the muscle of a dewalt corded (I’ve got both) but the convienance is well worth it to me. Now if I had some lenghy heavy duty grinding?yeah corded and probably use a 6” grinder to really get it done. And for me the flap Wheels do abetter job of grinding metal than the hard wheels do. Milwaukee’s toolless change works great for me. |
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[#31]
I just used a cordless Dewalt 60v XR max circular saw to cut a 3 inch thick walnut beam. No problem.
I’m enjoying my Dewalt 20/60V XR max tools. |
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[#32]
I've used Dewalt for 25+ years, broken many tools, still happy.
Milwaukee is very aggressive right now and trying harder than Dewalt They seem to have more incentives and deals. Be careful with buying kits. They usually are lower grade equipment, that's why they are so cheap. My favorite sawsall of all time. I haven't carried a corded sawsall on a truck in a decade. If you cut a lot of thin steel, this thing is amazing. The only corded tools I still keep on the truck are a drill, which sees light about twice a year, angle grinder, and SDS max drill. I work on 100 year old buildings as well. Sharp tools and the correct blade selection are your most important thing's though. You can't overcome dull blades with brute force. These tools are strong enough to hurt you just from torque. If you go the kit route, it helps get into a system quickly, but plan on upgrading with bare tools as you go, you will need to. Don't bother with the m12 stuff, just more crap to drag around for very little advantage. |
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[#33]
Quoted: Good to hear from somebody who has been around both. Interesting that Milwaukee is actually dropping some tools. Wonder if they're going to introduce something new? View Quote As far as I know, the only tool that they are having severe issues with is the 1-9/16” sds cordless. |
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[#35]
Quoted:
I went the Milwaukee route and am happy about it. If I wake up tomorrow and someone has changed all my tools to DeWalt or mikita. I'll be smiling. I just got new tools. I just haven't seen one brand be dominate on jobsites. Once in awhile you'll run across someone that's had a bad experience with one brand or another. Mostly people like what they have. I'm sure you'll like whichever you get View Quote |
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[#36]
Quoted:
I'm finishing a basement and doing it myself. Framing, electrical, etcetera. I have a mix of 20V Dewalt stuff. I have two chargers and three of the 20V smaller batteries. I'm always rotating out the batteries because my impact driver eats them when framing with screws. But the batteries take about ten minutes to charge so it's fine. I also use a few drills, reciprocating saw, oscillating tool, right angle drill, circular saw, etc. Wouldn't mind picking up a few of the bigger batteries. I also have a 20 volt adapter for some of my older 18V tools, like my reciprocating saw(Hell, the impact driver is an 18V tool that works great with the adapter). One of my things I considered when getting started was Dewalt has a service center here in Louisville. Never had to use it, but good to know it's local. View Quote |
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[#37]
Quoted:
If I run the batteries really hard such that they’re hot coming off the tool once or Twice the thermal protection has kicked in and the charger will refuse to charge. They have to cool down for maybe 10 min or so and then they charge normally. As to ambient temperature I’ve worked in coolish weather 20’s/30’s as well as 90’s and can’t tell any real difference in charging time. I only have a single bay charger but it easily keeps up with my slow self. If I was using professionally I’d invest in a multibay charger so I’d always have an empty charging slot open. As far as blades go I’ve had sucky success with every brand demo blade I’ve used. Good Luck there. The Milwaukee cordless grinder doesn’t have the muscle of a dewalt corded (I’ve got both) but the convienance is well worth it to me. Now if I had some lenghy heavy duty grinding?yeah corded and probably use a 6” grinder to really get it done. And for me the flap Wheels do abetter job of grinding metal than the hard wheels do. Milwaukee’s toolless change works great for me. View Quote Dang though. No love for any demo blade now. I can't believe how fast I go through them compared to when I first started working on old houses. |
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[#38]
Quoted:
I just used a cordless Dewalt 60v XR max circular saw to cut a 3 inch thick walnut beam. No problem. I’m enjoying my Dewalt 20/60V XR max tools. View Quote |
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[#39]
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[#40]
Quoted:
I'm finishing a basement and doing it myself. Framing, electrical, etcetera. I have a mix of 20V Dewalt stuff. I have two chargers and three of the 20V smaller batteries. I'm always rotating out the batteries because my impact driver eats them when framing with screws. But the batteries take about ten minutes to charge so it's fine. I also use a few drills, reciprocating saw, oscillating tool, right angle drill, circular saw, etc. Wouldn't mind picking up a few of the bigger batteries. I also have a 20 volt adapter for some of my older 18V tools, like my reciprocating saw(Hell, the impact driver is an 18V tool that works great with the adapter). One of my things I considered when getting started was Dewalt has a service center here in Louisville. Never had to use it, but good to know it's local. View Quote As great as it is to keep older 18v tools alive with the battery adapter, there is a night and day difference in power & battery life with the new brushless stuff. So far the best deal I’ve seen on batteries is two 4ah for $99 at Costco in store. |
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[#41]
Quoted: You should try the newer brushless stuff. As great as it is to keep older 18v tools alive with the battery adapter, there is a night and day difference in power & battery life with the new brushless stuff. So far the best deal I’ve seen on batteries is two 4ah for $99 at Costco in store. View Quote How recently? |
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[#42]
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[#43]
@mclark202
Is your angle drill Dewalt? or what? And what do you think of it? I've been pestering the sh*t out of my plumber (who puts up with it very gracefully ) and I've got a serious jones for his Milwaukee angle drill. But it's old, and he says the newer ones are not as good. Don't know if that's the "anti-china" stuff talking, or age, or what. But now I think I have to have an angle drill. |
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[#44]
@postpostban
Thank you for this post. Some questions in red. Quoted:
Milwaukee is very aggressive right now and trying harder than Dewalt They seem to have more incentives and deals. Be careful with buying kits. They usually are lower grade equipment, that's why they are so cheap. I admit that I'm afraid of this exact thing. Right now I'm looking at a deal at my Home Depot. It's the brushless 60v max framing saw kit with charger and battery for 269.00 That's stupid cheap from what I've found, but I keep going in there and walking out, thinking, "what am I missing?" My favorite sawsall of all time. I haven't carried a corded sawsall on a truck in a decade. Why do you like that one in particular? (That may be a dumb question, but even Dewalt has more than one. I"m interested in what you do and why you like that one necessarily, cuz I bet you've used several. If you cut a lot of thin steel, this thing is amazing. The only corded tools I still keep on the truck are a drill, which sees light about twice a year, angle grinder, and SDS max drill. I work on 100 year old buildings as well. Sharp tools and the correct blade selection are your most important thing's though. You can't overcome dull blades with brute force. . Agree 100 percent and am open to advice, always. Finding decent blades is a whole nuther discussion for me. Many years ago an amazing old guy who I consider a mentor (gone for a few years now, but the guy could do anything. I mean ANYTHING. Couldn't find the right hinges for a house he was building (log cabin built from old pens) so he made them. Yep, that's right. He freaking MADE these two-foot-long strap hinges, all shaped just right for the age of the structure. Had the forge in a shed behind his house. It was no thing to him. "Don't like those? What do you like? Okay I'll be back" And they would cost hundreds of dollars each if I ordered anything similar from some vintage hardware place. He was amazing, and I miss being able to drop by and say, "Mr. Newman, I've got this, what would you do?" Gave me a nail puller and I carry it everywhere just cuz it was his.) Anyway, he told me, "Spend your money on the tools that cut. If it cuts, buy the best you can afford." I took his advice and have always done exactly that. Which includes blades. I'm kind of frustrated about blades right now. Diablo is working great on my circular-blade tools, but not so impressed on the reciprocating saw blades. That's a lot more than you wanted to know about my history with saw blades, I know. These tools are strong enough to hurt you just from torque. Got it. That's a good thing. If you go the kit route, it helps get into a system quickly, but plan on upgrading with bare tools as you go, you will need to. Don't bother with the m12 stuff, just more crap to drag around for very little advantage. View Quote |
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[#45]
Darnit. Double tap.
Sorry everyone. I should take this opportunity to say...I really appreciate everyone who has given advice. Many of y'all have been working in trades for a lot longer than I ever will. That experience means a lot, and I appreciate you taking time to help. ~~Kitties |
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[#46]
Not to complicate things, but Home Depot has a great deal as of Yesterday on M18 fuel gear. Hammer drill, impact driver, hackzall and packout midsize box with two 5.0 batteries and one 6.0 for $400.
Would almost buy that to get rid of the garbage Dewalt NiCad shit we have at work. |
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[#47]
Quoted:
Not to complicate things, but Home Depot has a great deal as of Yesterday on M18 fuel gear. Hammer drill, impact driver, hackzall and packout midsize box with two 5.0 batteries and one 6.0 for $400. Would almost buy that to get rid of the garbage Dewalt NiCad shit we have at work. View Quote You hate your old Dewalt stuff? Why? |
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[#48]
Quoted:
@postpostban Thank you for this post. Some questions in red. Thank you. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
@postpostban Thank you for this post. Some questions in red. Quoted:
Milwaukee is very aggressive right now and trying harder than Dewalt They seem to have more incentives and deals. Be careful with buying kits. They usually are lower grade equipment, that's why they are so cheap. I admit that I'm afraid of this exact thing. Right now I'm looking at a deal at my Home Depot. It's the brushless 60v max framing saw kit with charger and battery for 269.00 That's stupid cheap from what I've found, but I keep going in there and walking out, thinking, "what am I missing?" My favorite sawsall of all time. I haven't carried a corded sawsall on a truck in a decade. Why do you like that one in particular? (That may be a dumb question, but even Dewalt has more than one. I"m interested in what you do and why you like that one necessarily, cuz I bet you've used several. If you cut a lot of thin steel, this thing is amazing. The only corded tools I still keep on the truck are a drill, which sees light about twice a year, angle grinder, and SDS max drill. I work on 100 year old buildings as well. Sharp tools and the correct blade selection are your most important thing's though. You can't overcome dull blades with brute force. . Agree 100 percent and am open to advice, always. Finding decent blades is a whole nuther discussion for me. Many years ago an amazing old guy who I consider a mentor (gone for a few years now, but the guy could do anything. I mean ANYTHING. Couldn't find the right hinges for a house he was building (log cabin built from old pens) so he made them. Yep, that's right. He freaking MADE these two-foot-long strap hinges, all shaped just right for the age of the structure. Had the forge in a shed behind his house. It was no thing to him. "Don't like those? What do you like? Okay I'll be back" And they would cost hundreds of dollars each if I ordered anything similar from some vintage hardware place. He was amazing, and I miss being able to drop by and say, "Mr. Newman, I've got this, what would you do?" Gave me a nail puller and I carry it everywhere just cuz it was his.) Anyway, he told me, "Spend your money on the tools that cut. If it cuts, buy the best you can afford." I took his advice and have always done exactly that. Which includes blades. I'm kind of frustrated about blades right now. Diablo is working great on my circular-blade tools, but not so impressed on the reciprocating saw blades. That's a lot more than you wanted to know about my history with saw blades, I know. These tools are strong enough to hurt you just from torque. Got it. That's a good thing. If you go the kit route, it helps get into a system quickly, but plan on upgrading with bare tools as you go, you will need to. Don't bother with the m12 stuff, just more crap to drag around for very little advantage. Look for little details in the kits like amp ratings, magnesium bases for the circular saws. It can be hard to tell from internet pictures, they often post the wrong ones. Find a tool and hardware store that will listen to you. Go in and talk to them regularly. The box stores will be a better buy, but a good store like Fastenal (if they have good employees) can really help you pick better equipment. A local store would be even better. If you are regular and friendly, they can be a huge resource and insight. Never buy Irwin or Dewalt cutting tools, Garbage. I like that sawsall because it has a nice compact size that works great between studs, good aggressive cut, fits in a tool case with a blade in it, and the blade change is easy. Sawsall blades, I don't like diablo. I was a lenox guy for years, but they have changed for the worse. Carbide tipped ones suck. Milwaukee I actually making some decent ones, surprisingly. I think they have consumer grade and pro grade stuff though, so be careful there. Find a good blade sharpening guy, for your ship auger bits and saw blades you don't abuse. A good, fresh table saw blade is like heaven. |
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[#49]
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I'm not a tool nerd by any means, but I'll give it a go. I don't like saws with the blade on the right. I'm right handed, so I want to be able to do fine cuts without doing a contortion act. Last time I looked, all the 60v. saws were right side blades. That's a no go for me. Look for little details in the kits like amp ratings, magnesium bases for the circular saws. It can be hard to tell from internet pictures, they often post the wrong ones. Find a tool and hardware store that will listen to you. Go in and talk to them regularly. The box stores will be a better buy, but a good store like Fastenal (if they have good employees) can really help you pick better equipment. A local store would be even better. If you are regular and friendly, they can be a huge resource and insight. Never buy Irwin or Dewalt cutting tools, Garbage. I like that sawsall because it has a nice compact size that works great between studs, good aggressive cut, fits in a tool case with a blade in it, and the blade change is easy. Sawsall blades, I don't like diablo. I was a lenox guy for years, but they have changed for the worse. Carbide tipped ones suck. Milwaukee I actually making some decent ones, surprisingly. I think they have consumer grade and pro grade stuff though, so be careful there. Find a good blade sharpening guy, for your ship auger bits and saw blades you don't abuse. A good, fresh table saw blade is like heaven. View Quote I also used to be a Lenox blade fan. Became one when we bought our own old house and I started this journey into loving the puzzle that is every old house, 20 years ago. The ones I bought last fall (in a pack, no less, cuz that's all left on the shelf at the "close so use in emergencies" store) were crappier than the ones I get at Harbor Freight. Made me sad. ETA: We have Fastenal here. I will stop by. |
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[#50]
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OK, I decided to check the stats on the tools. The bare M18 Fuel Sawzall weighs 7.4 lbs 5.0 Ah Battery 1.7 lbs Corded Milwaukee 13amp 8.8 lbs Corded Milwaukee 15amp 9.8 lbs View Quote |
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