User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
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Posted: 2/16/2019 6:31:26 PM EDT
Looks like the last one fell off the bottom, so the continued thread of showing your post work. More of an example thread than a how-to thread.
 Shadow Air OOC by FredMan, on Flickr
 Shadow Air by FredMan, on Flickr
This set is more of removing something you don't like. I usually don't add/remove things, more just playing with color/tone/contracts, but that orange lead really bugged me. I'm not very good at it, but practice makes perfect.  Moxie Run OOC by FredMan, on Flickr
 Moxie Run by FredMan, on Flickr
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MI, USA
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Posted: 2/16/2019 7:19:29 PM EDT
[#1]
My post processing skills are generally 2 steps:
1. if the pic was taken at a high ISO, go to lightzone and de-noise. 2. move pic to Irfanview and run the saturation slider to the right. Done 
sweet pics of your puppers |
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Posted: 2/16/2019 10:25:55 PM EDT
[#2]
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Posted: 2/23/2019 10:48:28 PM EDT
[#3]
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Posted: 2/24/2019 12:09:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: L_JE]
[#4]
I still don't understand why this site compresses the files in our media galleries. The actual files look good, print well, but when saved to the Arf media gallery, they look like I did the DCT algorithm myself, while drunk.
But, the general idea is there...  
ETA: [added a third image with 3rd party hosting, and not subject to the Arf image compression] |
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Posted: 2/25/2019 8:14:41 PM EDT
[#5]
It's amazing what you can pull out of raw data.
 N420AT LSA18005 Attitude OOC by FredMan, on Flickr
 N420AT LSA18005 Attitude by FredMan, on Flickr
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Posted: 2/26/2019 9:45:24 PM EDT
[#6]
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Posted: 6/17/2019 9:26:01 PM EDT
[#7]
Grandson loves bubbles.
 Attached File Attached FileIt really helps to experiment with one's specific camera to determine the standard exposure compensation to dial in for maximum detail. 
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Posted: 6/30/2019 1:02:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FredMan]
[#8]
 Sunset 20190601 OOC by FredMan, on Flickr
A little color/contract/levels and some gradient filters. Maybe some dehaze in there too. There's always some cool stuff hiding out in the raw, and while DJI's implementation of the DNG format may leave some room for improvement it's definitely something you can work with.  Sunset 20190601 by FredMan, on Flickr
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Posted: 6/30/2019 4:03:41 PM EDT
[#9]
Here's a few of some hummers.
 Singing In The Rain OOC by FredMan, on Flickr
 Singing In The Rain by FredMan, on Flickr Hover OOC by FredMan, on Flickr
 Hover by FredMan, on Flickr
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Posted: 6/30/2019 8:40:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Some tough backlighting, but it's a nice blue sky that I didn't want blown out.
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Posted: 8/21/2019 5:06:52 PM EDT
[#11]
Resurrection!!
 GOO96001 Sunset Tail OOC by FredMan, on Flickr
 GOO96001 Sunset Tail by FredMan, on Flickr
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Posted: 10/11/2019 8:19:28 PM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 12/11/2019 10:23:10 PM EDT
[#13]
bumpity bump to keep out of the archive.
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Posted: 12/11/2019 10:40:31 PM EDT
[#14]
Thread is now set to no archive.
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Posted: 12/11/2019 10:53:03 PM EDT
[#15]
brass, are you now the mod?
Is Zack3g not a mod? |
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Posted: 12/11/2019 11:12:01 PM EDT
[#16]
I believe Zack3g is, I decided to not be so lazy since chat hasn't come back. Nobody was removed that I know of. To my knowledge I was tacked on is all (and GD and UFO)
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Posted: 12/11/2019 11:24:28 PM EDT
[#17]
This is amazing work. Was this all done in Lightroom?
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Posted: 12/12/2019 12:06:49 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SirSqueeboo:
This is amazing work. Was this all done in Lightroom? |
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Posted: 12/12/2019 7:51:49 PM EDT
[#19]
99.999% of my post work is done only in LR.
I may bring one or two into PS to get rid of something like a dog leash or distracting background, but very rarely. |
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Posted: 12/12/2019 11:45:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: L_JE]
[#20]
Same location as the mountains in my ealier post, but 12 years later.
I might revisit this file and bring in the highlights in the upper portion of the image to better define the detail in the snowfield. My ND filters would have been nice here, but things were moving a bit fast. I had just finished up a twilight to dawn time lapse a few hundred yards away, and scampered over to this spot hoping to get the moon into the frame. |
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Posted: 12/12/2019 11:53:05 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By L_JE:
Same location as the mountains in my ealier post, but 12 years later. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203937/_DSC8686_-_960-1193778.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Rock-Climbing/20190816-Cirque-of-the-Towers/i-DWZMh5m/1/1207b4eb/X2/_DSC8686A1%20-%201920-X2.jpg I might revisit this file and bring in the highlights in the upper portion of the image to better define the detail in the snowfield. My ND filters would have been nice here, but things were moving a bit fast. I had just finished up a twilight to dawn time lapse a few hundred yards away, and scampered over to this spot hoping to get the moon into the frame. Looks great, I don't know what more could be pushed without making it look unnatural. |
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Posted: 12/14/2019 3:31:29 PM EDT
[#22]
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Posted: 12/14/2019 3:37:11 PM EDT
[#23]
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Posted: 12/14/2019 3:41:40 PM EDT
[#24]
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Posted: 12/14/2019 3:46:11 PM EDT
[#25]
 Mercury Solar Transit 20191111 OOC by FredMan, on Flickr
 Mercury Solar Transit 20191111 Detail by FredMan, on Flickr
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Posted: 6/23/2020 2:01:05 PM EDT
[#26]
I think I was sitting in my tent when I scrolled to this one photo from a time lapse series, and upped the D-Lighting in camera and probably pushed it some more using a very rudimentary editor on my phone and then probably posted it from a bar.
It's hideous. But, it gave me an initial idea of what I could pull out of the shadows...  Here's the original .jpeg file...  When I got back to my real computer after the road trip, I re-edited the photo from the .NEF file and got a much better looking result, but there was still substantial noise in the shadows and snowfields that I lightened, and some odd color patterns in the cliffs. So, I used the program Sequator to do a 5 frame average to reduce the shadow noise. Here is a comparison of the noise-reduced file compared to the original .JPEG [high qual / low res (4k)] and .NEF files Sequator NR v .JPEG ...  Sequator NR v .NEF ...  Here is the finished result. Maybe. I might go back in and reduce the clarity of the sky and see if I can take some of the edge off of the twilight Milky Way. 
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Posted: 7/17/2020 11:02:50 PM EDT
[#27]
Tonight's example is stacking astrophotography pics. 11 frames were used in this example.
This is one of my original frames, OOC. EXIF is 500mm, 0.8 sec, f/5.6, ISO 1000  Comet C/2020 F3 (NEOWISE) 2020-07-17 OOC by FredMan, on FlickrThe finished shot resulted from adjusting some exposure settings in LR, copying to all the raw images, importing into PS, stacking for noise reduction, some additional tone/exposure in PS, then exporting to tiff and re-importing to LR for some final noise reduction, color, tone, and sharpness. It's AMAZING the noise reduction benefits you get from stacking.  Comet C/2020 F3 (NEOWISE) 2020-07-17 by FredMan, on Flickr
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Posted: 7/27/2020 10:15:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FredMan]
[#28]
Tonight's example is using LR's Dehaze tool. I grabbed the D500/200-500 and ran out back when I saw this guy and the lens fogged up almost instantly (72 inside, 95 outside).
It's an effective tool when properly used. Note that it's not really designed for a fogged lens, but it works pretty good. Also had some tone adjustments, contrast, exposure, sharpening, WB (interestingly, use of dehaze seems to bump the WB towards cool, so I bumped it back to the warm side), crop, NR, and a wee bit of post-crop vignetting.  Velvet 8-Point Buck OOC by FredMan, on Flickr Velvet 8-Point Buck by FredMan, on Flickr
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Posted: 8/20/2020 10:36:27 AM EDT
[#29]
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Posted: 3/30/2021 12:09:02 AM EDT
[#30]
Some edits from last week's climbing.
There's so much latitude with the raw files to pull out shadow detail or pull highlights back into range, or just blow them out or sink the shadows into oblivion, all just depending on what you feel like going for at the time, or after the fact. Bring the scene to where the eye saw it, or drop shadows to the way it would look if shot on slide film. Whatever. Mind blowing flexibility. I'm not going to through the trouble of re-sharpening these for the Arf media file dimension limits, but suffice to say that at full resolution, the photos had the sharpness I wanted where I wanted it. Though, that may not convey well in these smaller image sizes. Nikon D850 14mm f/2.8 1/8000s ISO31  24mm f/2.8 1/8000s ISO31  35mm f/1.6 1/8000s ISO31  105mm f/4 1/1000s ISO320  24mm f/4 1/8000s ISO320  78mm f/8 1/160s ISO320  |
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Posted: 4/24/2021 3:50:56 PM EDT
[#31]
This thread hasn't seen any action in a while...
 Happy Dog OOC by FredMan, on Flickr Happy Dog by FredMan, on Flickr
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Posted: 7/16/2021 10:50:43 PM EDT
[#32]
With nighttime air traffic and the ever increasing satellite clutter, nighttime photography can really run into problems, depending on what you are trying to accomplish.
Might be worth it to post some post processing examples that remove these artifacts. The videos have the frame by frame raw files edited for exposure on the left, and the noise reduction files on the right. [For these images, I used a program called Sequator, using its Time Lapse option, averaging across 5 frames.] It probably helps to view them in 1080, rather than the miniplayer.  Noise Reduction Example: Big Sandy Lake, WY  Noise Reduction Example: Warrior Peak, WY |
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Posted: 7/16/2021 10:59:13 PM EDT
[#33]
The same idea can be used to pull air/space traffic out of still composite images.
You might have to look hard to see it, but there's a lot of air traffic moving just above the tree line, as well as some paths that cross higher overhead.  I liked the image above, but was never happy with it because of the noise and distraction. For the next image, I used the Time Lapse option in Sequator, averaged over 5 frames, then restacked the processed files. Gave it a slightly different color grade. And, finally had an image I was happy with. 
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MI, USA
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Posted: 7/17/2021 7:14:44 AM EDT
[#34]
I really enjoy these types of threads.
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Posted: 7/17/2021 10:58:53 AM EDT
[#35]
Good stuff! I hope to have my own photos to add one day.
To add to the discussion, are any of you guys “ETTR” fans (Exposing To The Right)? From what I understand - and it’s kind of flip flopped in the 20+ years since I got my first digital camera - there’s more information in the bright/right side of the histogram than in the dark/left side, so you have more leeway there to retouch. That helicopter shot @FredMan posted above that went from mild, “neat helicopter” shot to a very beautiful, frameworthy photograph is a perfect example. |
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Posted: 7/17/2021 3:34:14 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By macman37: Good stuff! I hope to have my own photos to add one day. To add to the discussion, are any of you guys “ETTR” fans (Exposing To The Right)? From what I understand - and it’s kind of flip flopped in the 20+ years since I got my first digital camera - there’s more information in the bright/right side of the histogram than in the dark/left side, so you have more leeway there to retouch. That helicopter shot @FredMan posted above that went from mild, “neat helicopter” shot to a very beautiful, frameworthy photograph is a perfect example. I’m all about ETTR. I have my D500’s meter set to +0.7 ev to help me out. I think of ETTR the same way I think about sound recording levels. You want that signal as high as possible without clipping so as to minimize the noise floor in the signal steam. With digital photography and post editing, as long as you haven’t clipped the data it’s available for editing. Pulling back the exposure in post minimizes noise, pushing it in post introduces noise.. |
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Posted: 7/17/2021 5:11:22 PM EDT
[#37]
Another example of aircraft reduction via Sequator...
 
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Posted: 7/17/2021 5:28:08 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FredMan: I'm all about ETTR. I have my D500's meter set to +0.7 ev to help me out. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FredMan: Originally Posted By macman37: To add to the discussion, are any of you guys "ETTR" fans (Exposing To The Right)? I'm all about ETTR. I have my D500's meter set to +0.7 ev to help me out. After testing, I also found that setting my D850 to +0.7 EV gives me great results for the vast majority of my shots. |
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Posted: 7/17/2021 8:12:21 PM EDT
[#39]
Thinking about doing the +.7 EV thing too now!
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Posted: 7/18/2021 12:02:07 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By macman37: Thinking about doing the +.7 EV thing too now! If you run all your keepers through LR there’s no reason not to! |
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Posted: 7/20/2021 11:43:34 AM EDT
[#41]
Some gap reduction in a series of 30 seconds exposures at 70 or 80mm focal length.
 
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Posted: 7/20/2021 6:43:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FredMan]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By L_JE: Some gap reduction in a series of 30 seconds exposures at 70 or 80mm focal length. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-hNS4mKD/0/4fc613cc/X3/i-hNS4mKD-X3.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dT3Vgct/0/156a8417/X3/i-dT3Vgct-X3.jpg I cheat on doing those shots; there's this free utility StarTrails that'll stack and get rid of gaps. It only recognizes BMP, JPG, and TIFF, so I usually take the series, process, convert to TIFF, import into StarTrails, and then let it do it's thing. https://startrails.de/ And it's not just for star trails, you can do all kinds of stacking with it.  Sun Moon Track 16mm 4 min by FredMan, on Flickr Front Field Sun Moon Set_5-Minute by FredMan, on Flickr |
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Posted: 7/20/2021 7:07:51 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FredMan: I cheat on doing those shots; there's this free utility StarTrails that'll stack and get rid of gaps. It only recognizes BMP, JPG, and TIFF, so I usually take the series, process, convert to TIFF, import into StarTrails, and then let it do it's thing. https://startrails.de/ And it's not just for star trails, you can do all kinds of stacking with it. https://live.staticflickr.com/4349/36309580384_5e54817fac_b.jpgSun Moon Track 16mm 4 min by FredMan, on Flickr https://live.staticflickr.com/4837/45933154331_b4daf2ee91_b.jpgFront Field Sun Moon Set_5-Minute by FredMan, on Flickr Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FredMan: Originally Posted By L_JE: Some gap reduction in a series of 30 seconds exposures at 70 or 80mm focal length. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-hNS4mKD/0/4fc613cc/X3/i-hNS4mKD-X3.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dT3Vgct/0/156a8417/X3/i-dT3Vgct-X3.jpg I cheat on doing those shots; there's this free utility StarTrails that'll stack and get rid of gaps. It only recognizes BMP, JPG, and TIFF, so I usually take the series, process, convert to TIFF, import into StarTrails, and then let it do it's thing. https://startrails.de/ And it's not just for star trails, you can do all kinds of stacking with it. https://live.staticflickr.com/4349/36309580384_5e54817fac_b.jpgSun Moon Track 16mm 4 min by FredMan, on Flickr https://live.staticflickr.com/4837/45933154331_b4daf2ee91_b.jpgFront Field Sun Moon Set_5-Minute by FredMan, on Flickr Are you stacking the same frame a few times with offsets, or are you adding in several other extra images from that session to give enough for a time lapse sort of exposure from the nearly dark values not Normally seen? |
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Posted: 7/20/2021 8:42:45 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By brass: Are you stacking the same frame a few times with offsets, or are you adding in several other extra images from that session to give enough for a time lapse sort of exposure from the nearly dark values not Normally seen? The nightime shot is a stacked combination three general shots: the sun shot at 4-minute intervals with a solar filter, the moon shot at 4 minute intervals with no filter, and then a still frame of the house, a bit longer exposure (maybe 30 seconds, I don't remember). I started the shot around 8 in the morning, before the sun got above the house. Camera mounted on a tripod. Let that run until the sun moved out of the frame, then let the camera sit until shortly before moonrise, when I took the still of the house. Then I started the intervalometer again and got the moon sequence until it went out of frame, probably around midnight. The sunset one used the same technique, different location (of course). To do these right you need to be prepared to leave your camera in the field for 16-18 hours. Sure, you could pull it after each sequence, but you'll know in your heart you're cheating. |
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Posted: 7/20/2021 10:03:16 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FredMan: The nightime shot is a stacked combination three general shots: the sun shot at 4-minute intervals with a solar filter, the moon shot at 4 minute intervals with no filter, and then a still frame of the house, a bit longer exposure (maybe 30 seconds, I don't remember). I started the shot around 8 in the morning, before the sun got above the house. Camera mounted on a tripod. Let that run until the sun moved out of the frame, then let the camera sit until shortly before moonrise, when I took the still of the house. Then I started the intervalometer again and got the moon sequence until it went out of frame, probably around midnight. The sunset one used the same technique, different location (of course). To do these right you need to be prepared to leave your camera in the field for 16-18 hours. Sure, you could pull it after each sequence, but you'll know in your heart you're cheating. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FredMan: Originally Posted By brass: Are you stacking the same frame a few times with offsets, or are you adding in several other extra images from that session to give enough for a time lapse sort of exposure from the nearly dark values not Normally seen? The nightime shot is a stacked combination three general shots: the sun shot at 4-minute intervals with a solar filter, the moon shot at 4 minute intervals with no filter, and then a still frame of the house, a bit longer exposure (maybe 30 seconds, I don't remember). I started the shot around 8 in the morning, before the sun got above the house. Camera mounted on a tripod. Let that run until the sun moved out of the frame, then let the camera sit until shortly before moonrise, when I took the still of the house. Then I started the intervalometer again and got the moon sequence until it went out of frame, probably around midnight. The sunset one used the same technique, different location (of course). To do these right you need to be prepared to leave your camera in the field for 16-18 hours. Sure, you could pull it after each sequence, but you'll know in your heart you're cheating. OK, got it. "The Hard Way" ¹ frames of the sun/moon throughout their cycles, stacked together, then those are stacked onto a clear photo of house and some background sky. More compositing than exposure boosting then? I didn't know if the software was masking and doing arbitrary rotations then treating that as a new frame to merge to make the star trails more bigger if that makes sense. ¹ How are the analemma's coming along? |
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Posted: 7/24/2021 10:13:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: FredMan]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By brass: OK, got it. "The Hard Way" ¹ frames of the sun/moon throughout their cycles, stacked together, then those are stacked onto a clear photo of house and some background sky. More compositing than exposure boosting then? I didn't know if the software was masking and doing arbitrary rotations then treating that as a new frame to merge to make the star trails more bigger if that makes sense. ¹ How are the analemma's coming along? Yeah, compositing would be a better term, but that startrails app does all the work. Essentially the same as PS’s Blend Difference tool. There’s no adjusting the framing in any of that. Now, if I was trying to long exposures of astronomical objects, I’d need something like an equatorial motor drive or an app like StarStack. I never set up for another analemma, just fell off my radar.  Analemma 2020_-2 by FredMan, on Flickr
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Posted: 7/24/2021 10:31:10 AM EDT
[#47]
As I used to say at Natty Geo, the truth is out there
give me a fat histogram and I can surf out all kinds of imagery what really nerfed up the process was if the film negative scan included any of the plastic or cardboard frame in the file now your blackest black zone is not from the emulsion exposure, its bogus data |
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Posted: 7/24/2021 2:46:35 PM EDT
[#48]
Can anything be done with regular photos or does it need to be a RAW file?
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Posted: 7/24/2021 3:24:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: brass]
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SirSqueeboo: Can anything be done with regular photos or does it need to be a RAW file? A LOT more can be pulled from RAW files but a High quality JPG of sufficient resolution and proper exposure can be worked with pretty well for the average photo. JPG - 8 bits/channel 256 color levels per color RAW - 12-16 bits/channel 4096-65536 color levels per color (For ref: CD Audio - 16 bits per channel audio, most displays are 8 bit per color/24 bit total color resolution) |
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Posted: 7/24/2021 3:27:47 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SirSqueeboo: Can anything be done with regular photos or does it need to be a RAW file? A RAW file will give you the most latitude, but a .jpg file can still offer a surprising degree of flexibility. A number of my star trail composites are just from .jpg files. That said, I think it's best to shoot RAW or RAW + .jpg. |
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