Photography info, tips and tricks thread

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Photography info, tips and tricks thread

Posted: 11/26/2018 10:33:24 AM EDT

I've been noticing an uptick in threads from new photographers to older photographers with new cameras, and we could all use a refresh of skills from time to time.

A few years ago I wrote up a primer on how DoF works with relation to focal length, aperture, etc. I can dig that up from the archives if anyone wants to read it again, but I'd like this thread to be more of tips and tricks that you wish you had known a lot sooner on your photography journey.

The biggest piece of advice I can give anyone is to use a higher minimum shutter speed than you think you need, especially if you've got a high resolution sensor (think 16mp+) and consider your crop factor, if there is one.

The old rule of thumb used to be minimum shutter speed should be 1/focal length, so a 300mm lens on a FX body should be shot at no less than 1/300 (with no VR) and back in the day that held true.

Today's high resolution sensors are more sensitive to poor technique and even the most miniscule movements, so 1/focal length doesn't really work anymore. This is doubly so when we're considering crop sensors.

I recommend 1/2x focal length for most situations. Our same 300mm lens should be shot at no less than 1/640 (or as close as you can get +/-) unless you've got a good reason to do so.

Today's cameras are a lot higher resolution, but they can also take higher ISOs so the penalty for raising it a bit to cover the extra shutter speed is not as bad as it used to be.

If you have a good VR lens or are on a tripod, you don't really need to concern yourself too much with the above information, it's mainly for handheld shooting. A monopod would benefit from the advice as well in many cases though.

Another good tip that I wish I had learned a lot sooner involves the shutter button itself. Pushing the shutter button is bad. Rolling your finger gently onto the shutter button from the side works a lot better and shakes the camera a lot less.

Add your tips and tricks, let's see if we can help everyone out a bit.

Posted: 11/26/2018 12:51:17 PM EDT

[#1]

Take the lens cap off

Posted: 11/26/2018 1:01:18 PM EDT

[#2]

subcribing

Posted: 11/26/2018 1:15:15 PM EDT

[#3]

Learn to use back button focus.

It's yugely helpful.

Posted: 11/26/2018 10:58:10 PM EDT

[#4]

Overexpose. Just when you think you've overexposed enough, bump it a bit more.

We call it Expose To the Right, or ETTR. Zack showed me the light on this one.

I've posted plenty of examples in the Post Processing Thread, but the upshot is, until you start clipping the highs you can always bring them back in post, without introducing noise.

Boosting underexposure in post will almost always introduce ugly noise.

The best way I've found to do this is with what Nikon calls Exposure Control. What you're doing here is telling your camera's light meter that +whatever EV is really what you want to be the "new normal", so when you're metering your subject when it shows proper exposure it's already boosted.

I set my EC to +.7 EV, and then usually bump it a few notches when composing.

Here's just one example, and I think a pretty dramatic one:

Original

PAT15002 N420AT Spraying Before by FredMan, on Flickr

After processing

PAT15002 N420AT Spraying by FredMan, on Flickr

Posted: 11/27/2018 9:51:58 PM EDT

[#5]

@Fredman

Thanks! That's a great tip!

Posted: 11/28/2018 12:48:18 AM EDT

[#6]

Quote History

Quoted:
@Fredman

Thanks! That's a great tip!

View Quote

One thing that he forgot to mention is this only works if you're shooting in RAW.

Kinda an important tidbit.

Posted: 11/28/2018 12:05:10 PM EDT

[#7]

Quote History

Quoted:

One thing that he forgot to mention is this only works if you're shooting in RAW.

Kinda an important tidbit.

View Quote

Since everyone shoots RAW, I didn't think it was worth mentioning.

Posted: 11/28/2018 11:47:33 PM EDT

[#8]

I will be the opposite side of ettr. It can be helpful in certain conditions but it isn’t always needed. All I can really recommend is when you get a camera the first thing you do is put it into manual mode. Learn how to expose shots in all kinds of lighting.

If your just considering getting into photography and have never really used anything other then a cell phone, mirrorless cameras are great. You will see your exact exposure in the viewfinder just like a cell phone does.

Posted: 11/29/2018 1:36:05 AM EDT

[#9]

Quote History

Quoted:
I will be the opposite side of ettr. It can be helpful in certain conditions but it isn’t always needed. All I can really recommend is when you get a camera the first thing you do is put it into manual mode. Learn how to expose shots in all kinds of lighting.

If your just considering getting into photography and have never really used anything other then a cell phone, mirrorless cameras are great. You will see your exact exposure in the viewfinder just like a cell phone does.

View Quote

It is pretty useful though, especially darker subjects vs a light background like aircraft. You’ll get less noise from higher ISO and reducing the exposure, vs bumping the shadows up to compensate. But it’s not always perfect for everything. Personally I have hit and miss luck with it, and have caught myself accidentally leaving the EV+ adjustment on, and then wondering wtf is going on with ISO control later. Mostly being a space case instead though.

Posted: 12/17/2018 11:15:58 PM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted:
Since everyone shoots RAW, I didn't think it was worth mentioning.

View Quote

I don't shoot in raw............

Posted: 12/18/2018 9:12:58 PM EDT

[#11]

Quote History

Quoted:

I don't shoot in raw............

View Quote

You should really try it. You'd be amazed at what you can do.

Raw is to digital like the darkroom is to film.

Shooting jpg is like taking your film to the one-hour photo for developing. Raw (and LR/PS or equivalent) is like mixing chemicals and developing your own film in your basement.

Posted: 12/19/2018 8:36:39 AM EDT

[#12]

Quote History

Quoted:

Shooting jpg is like taking your film to the one-hour photo for developing. Raw (and LR/PS or equivalent) is like mixing chemicals and developing your own film in your basement.

View Quote

That's exactly the problem. I have neither the skills nor the knowledge on how to tinker with my pics. I can easily see the difference between the two, I shot raw when I first got the camera. But I just don't believe that's for me right now.

Posted: 12/19/2018 9:17:42 PM EDT

[#13]

I wish I'd been shooting raw way back before I knew what it was.

That way I could go back to those old shots and put the polish on.

Memory is so cheap now that storing all that data for the day you might want to play with it is very economical.

Posted: 12/20/2018 9:15:24 PM EDT

[#14]

If you're shooting action/sports/events RAW is usually to slow to shoot continuous frames in sequence, but JPG will write to card much faster, so get your exposure right & lean on the shutter!

Posted: 12/21/2018 12:10:31 AM EDT

[#15]

Quote History

Quoted:
If you're shooting action/sports/events RAW is usually to slow to shoot continuous frames in sequence, but JPG will write to card much faster, so get your exposure right & lean on the shutter!

View Quote

Not if you've got an XQD card and a decent sized buffer.

Hell even with a UHS-3 SD card and a small buffer you can get by.

My D500 has got a 200-shot buffer for 12-bit raws

Posted: 12/22/2018 6:20:40 PM EDT

[#16]

Quote History

Quoted:
Overexpose. Just when you think you've overexposed enough, bump it a bit more.

We call it Expose To the Right, or ETTR. Zack showed me the light on this one.

I've posted plenty of examples in the Post Processing Thread, but the upshot is, until you start clipping the highs you can always bring them back in post, without introducing noise.

Boosting underexposure in post will almost always introduce ugly noise.

The best way I've found to do this is with what Nikon calls Exposure Control. What you're doing here is telling your camera's light meter that +whatever EV is really what you want to be the "new normal", so when you're metering your subject when it shows proper exposure it's already boosted.

I set my EC to +.7 EV, and then usually bump it a few notches when composing.

Here's just one example, and I think a pretty dramatic one:

Original
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/36606899703_3593db213c_c.jpg PAT15002 N420AT Spraying Before by FredMan, on Flickr

After processing

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4362/36566681884_c048d5fb0b_c.jpg PAT15002 N420AT Spraying by FredMan, on Flickr

View Quote

I actually took a photography class through continuing education at one of the local high schools at night. The instructor, who was right out of college and had a long way to go before becoming a good instructor, told us to underexpose because you can bring up the shadows more.

I've been wondering why I've been getting noise even at ISO 100 when trying to bring up underexposed pictures. Your pictures are much better than the ones she showed us.

I've adjusted my EC on my D7200 to +.7EV.

Thank you sir!!

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Photography info, tips and tricks thread

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