User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 8/20/2021 1:48:36 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I will likely just destroy this frame after function checking it and print a "keeper" one Kinda where I am at. Just printed a G19 (@D_Man custom PY2A...thanks) on my ender 3 to try everything out with some leftover green PLA+. Came out ok, but plan to print a nicer one in black on the Prusa at work. Just threw a bunch of spare parts I had on hand on it, and it went together surprisingly well. Seems to function as intended, and even has a decent trigger pull. Hope I have as good a result with the black one.  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/21/2021 11:08:59 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I printed a G19 hentai frame just for kicks at the recommended layer height. I used a Voxelab Aeries It came out way better than I expected, with the only issue being the proprietary slicer. You obviously want supports, but the slicer adds supports to the graphics on the grips and makes them come out all messed up. I printed it in plain old Hatchbox PLA and printed top down on the build surface and there was definitely some cleanup needed, but it feels very solid. I just need to get setup to print a material that won't melt in a hot car. But for now, the novelty of it is fun. Took right close to 24.5 hours to print. The rails and locking block slipped right in after cleaning up where the supports were, and the holes line up right where they should. Dimensionally, it looks like it turned out really good. I will know more when the lower parts show up and I can try a slide and barrel I have lying around. I will likely just destroy this frame after function checking it and print a "keeper" one out of a better material once I either figure out nylon, or try some carbon fiber ABS. I don't consider any of the frames I print to be "keepers", I assume they are all disposable and will print a replacement as needed. Been saving the .gcode files of the nicest ones so I can reprint as needed. I also plan to try out other materials soon. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/21/2021 11:20:03 AM EDT
[#3]
Looks like i'm covered on locking blocks thanks to a tip here.
 Test fit seems ok.  Now just need to order more stuff to finish them. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/21/2021 11:53:10 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looks like i'm covered on locking blocks thanks to a tip here. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/21/2021 6:23:50 PM EDT
[#5]
I got an LPK in today and put the frame together. I needed to bend the takedown spring upwards a bit and add a screw and a couple of washers, and it's still a little loose. This is the only disappointment with this frame. It might work better with a G17 spring, but I don't have one on hand to try.
Everything else went together okay, and while it's nowhere near as smooth as a factory glock with factory internals, it appears to function check okay.  Attached File Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/21/2021 6:29:22 PM EDT
[#6]
Those slide lock lever springs are weird in these py2a frames. You have to have those bent at a magic angle that doesn't exist for it to not only sit and stay in place, but also not let the slide lock lever rattle around or fall out. I think I ended up using G17 springs, I'm sure I posted about it earlier in the thread.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/21/2021 6:42:48 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Those slide lock lever springs are weird in these py2a frames. You have to have those bent at a magic angle that doesn't exist for it to not only sit and stay in place, but also not let the slide lock lever rattle around or fall out. I think I ended up using G17 springs, I'm sure I posted about it earlier in the thread. I ordered a bunch of Glock made G17 springs, they're a bit thicker and keep more tension on the lock bar even after you bend them into shape. They've worked much better than the ones in my Korean parts kits. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/21/2021 6:46:39 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Those slide lock lever springs are weird in these py2a frames. You have to have those bent at a magic angle that doesn't exist for it to not only sit and stay in place, but also not let the slide lock lever rattle around or fall out. I think I ended up using G17 springs, I'm sure I posted about it earlier in the thread. Yeah I also think my crappy aftermarket LPK might have a poorly heat treated spring. If I bend it up enough to keep the lever from rattling, actually using the lever to take down the slide bends it back down enough to bring the rattle back.  Another thing I noticed is the spring for the slide release rests against a pin just above the trigger pin in a normal frame that is absent in these, so it doesn't put as much downward force to clear the slide if you slingshot it after a mag change. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/21/2021 6:50:02 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Another thing I noticed is the spring for the slide release rests against a pin just above the trigger pin in a normal frame that is absent in these, so it doesn't put as much downward force to clear the slide if you slingshot it after a mag change. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/21/2021 7:11:43 PM EDT
[#10]
Another thing about this printer is the .12 layer height really came out nice but who knows how many hundred extra layers it produced versus a .20 layer height. I think if I wasn't trying to get the graphics right, I'd just go for .20.
That said, the grip texture on the front and back of the frame came out very nice and sharp after cleaning up all the supports and their residue. I probably watched 2 hours worth of TV shows while picking at it with cutters and a hobby knife to get them cleaned up, but they really turned out good. You guys that can print the soluble supports have a definite advantage. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/21/2021 8:07:09 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Kinda where I am at. Just printed a G19 (@D_Man custom PY2A...thanks) on my ender 3 to try everything out with some leftover green PLA+. Came out ok, but plan to print a nicer one in black on the Prusa at work. The next in my installment of not leaving enough alone is this mod to the G26X. Here I totally removed the thumb depressions in the grip and extended the raised area up for a more classic grip-panel look. Add in what I've found to be a better trigger undercut layout and also opened up the slot in the rail to fit a standard 1913 type accessory instead of the smaller Glock key. I also radiused the top edges a bit to smooth things out overall. One last thing I did but you can't see here, is to add a tiny bit of extra material in specific spots of the back of the grip on those vertical "steps" where the web of your hand goes. I noticed on my prints there's two spots there, right where the rear of the PY2A back rail rests that the printed wall is very thin, and I was getting minor holes opening up there. Nothing structurally compromising, but cosmetically it bothered me so I widened the "steps" where it was happening to give it a little more meat in the print. If you didn't know it was done you'd probably never notice.  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/21/2021 8:17:56 PM EDT
[#12]
Moved to its own thread.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/22/2021 9:35:02 AM EDT
[#13]
Ended up printing a black frame yesterday on my Ender 3. Finally found a printable magwell that more or less fits (had to glue it on w/ some Loktite 380) - functions great.
Thanks again D_Man, loving the added texture!  Attached FileWish my prints were as clean as some of you guys, but I'm still fairly new to all this. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/22/2021 2:35:28 PM EDT
[#14]
Looks pretty good. Maybe fiddle with your belt tension a bit.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2021 3:00:20 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looks pretty good. Maybe fiddle with your belt tension a bit. Man, you couldn't have been any more on the money! Adjusted belts and am running another G19 print now... clean as hell! Many thanks for the tip! I'll post up some pics when done. Thanks! |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2021 3:13:02 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Man, you couldn't have been any more on the money! Adjusted belts and am running another G19 print now... clean as hell! Many thanks for the tip! I'll post up some pics when done. Thanks! |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2021 3:27:46 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep, those occasional slightly shifted layer lines are usually a sign of belt issues. The tensioner on my Ender3 V2 x-axis had a screw strip, which made it shift off at an angle and made one side of the belt rub constantly on the frame, it always gave me random layer issues. I swapped for a metal tensioner bracket and new belt and it's been great since now that everything is in line properly and tight. And thanks to you as well! Love your modded texture over the standard PY2A file. May have to give your "Grenade pattern" a try at some point as that just looks nice! |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/24/2021 3:48:40 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Man, you couldn't have been any more on the money! Adjusted belts and am running another G19 print now... clean as hell! Many thanks for the tip! I'll post up some pics when done. Thanks! Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Looks pretty good. Maybe fiddle with your belt tension a bit. Man, you couldn't have been any more on the money! Adjusted belts and am running another G19 print now... clean as hell! Many thanks for the tip! I'll post up some pics when done. Thanks! You're welcome! Glad it was helpful. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/26/2021 5:01:49 PM EDT
[#19]
Man, it is amazing how much @Bloencustoms advice to re-tension belts cleaned up my prints.
Here is a fresh off the printer G45 as an example. Have a little cleanup where tree supports were, but overall very pleased!  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/26/2021 5:16:48 PM EDT
[#20]
 Attached FileI made this one over the month or so. My issues with it have been related to the parts I put in it, not the print. I have a 17 and 26X (printing now) that I plan on completing. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/26/2021 5:34:43 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/255381/finished_jpg-2067101.JPG I have a 17 and 26X (printing now) that I plan on completing. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/26/2021 5:42:43 PM EDT
[#22]
If you look back on the first page of the thread, the lines in my frames really stand out in photos and makes them look terrible but in person they look and feel very smooth. I have all sorts of mods and upgrades on my ender 3 pro and I am probably over-due for some calibrations, but those frames and all my other prints turn out as strong as they could be.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/26/2021 6:48:14 PM EDT
[#23]
My 26x came out well. I don’t know if I will build it out but a did do it 2tone.
 Attached File Attached FileIt has some glue from the build plate. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/27/2021 4:10:18 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Man, it is amazing how much @Bloencustoms advice to re-tension belts cleaned up my prints. Here is a fresh off the printer G45 as an example. Have a little cleanup where tree supports were, but overall very pleased! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/33932/IMG_2799_jpeg-2067080.JPG  That came out much better! |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/2/2021 8:44:02 AM EDT
[#25]
Is there a latest set of "ideal" cura settings? Looks like some are listed in the earlier posts, but the names of some of the attributes have changed or disappeared in Cura 4.10. Going to reprint a G17 frame in PLA+, so my old g-code won't work.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/5/2021 6:12:20 PM EDT
[#26]
Just came off the printer. 16 hours.
 Attached FileI sliced a plain frame to print at 0.2 layer height (this was 0.12) and it estimates 11 hours. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/5/2021 6:27:33 PM EDT
[#27]
I can't get mine to be reliable. Fail to feed mostly with a fail to cycle on occasion.
I may break down and buy a box of factory ammunition to try but my 320 and G26 eat all my home cast ammo along with blue bullets and extremes. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/5/2021 10:25:26 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I can't get mine to be reliable. Fail to feed mostly with a fail to cycle on occasion. I may break down and buy a box of factory ammunition to try but my 320 and G26 eat all my home cast ammo along with blue bullets and extremes. Are you using factory glock internals and upper? |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/5/2021 11:42:42 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Are you using factory glock internals and upper? No Can't find real parts. I think the barrel is the weak link. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/7/2021 2:41:15 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No Can't find real parts. I think the barrel is the weak link. For me, I suspect it's the locking block or the disconnector. I have a factory glock upper that works great on its own frame, but fails the lockup test where you point it at the ceiling and cycle the slide with the trigger pulled and ride it closed on the PY2A frame. Hangs up on the last 1/4" inch or so of slide travel. It takes a little nudge and then snaps shut. I haven't shot it yet to see if it will work, but I think it will probably function fine. All the parts in the PY2A lower are, of course, aftermarket. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/7/2021 9:52:34 PM EDT
[#31]
Just as a suggestion in case the developers are reading this thread, I would angle the takedown spring slot in the frame a little bit forward to lift the rear of the takedown spring a little more. Maybe 15 or 20 degrees.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/8/2021 9:50:45 PM EDT
[#32]
Does anyone have any good links to read about setting up and adjusting the tree supports? I loaded a g45 file into cure and the tree supports were everywhere vs some of what I've seen here. This is really the only thing keeping me from printing at this point. I did some quick searching and just found some generic "use tree supports, done" type write ups.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/9/2021 8:56:05 AM EDT
[#33]
I did some trimming down of my tree supports so it was only where it overhangs the bed. Problem is, the tree supports would get too tall before reaching the frame, and would tip over eventually.
Happened two prints in a row. Rearmost supports would tip, causing the rear of the frame to get messed up.  Attached FileCurrently printing the normal tentacle looking tree supports with no problem. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/9/2021 9:57:08 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Does anyone have any good links to read about setting up and adjusting the tree supports? I loaded a g45 file into cure and the tree supports were everywhere vs some of what I've seen here. This is really the only thing keeping me from printing at this point. I did some quick searching and just found some generic "use tree supports, done" type write ups. These are about the settings I use now. It does take a couple minutes to slice.:  Attached File Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/9/2021 7:03:22 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I did some trimming down of my tree supports so it was only where it overhangs the bed. Problem is, the tree supports would get too tall before reaching the frame, and would tip over eventually. Happened two prints in a row. Rearmost supports would tip, causing the rear of the frame to get messed up. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/24416/Capture_JPG-2083856.JPG Currently printing the normal tentacle looking tree supports with no problem. i tried that a couple of times, but it failed every time. tall skinny supports with nothing at the bottom get tipped over at some point. tree can be good, but can also get wrecked due to all the retraction and chewing up the filament. i had better luck by doing standard supports and setting the overhang angle to like 40, and letting it support the everloving shit out of the model, then all the supports were strong enough to come off together. it looked like a potatoe but the supports came off suprisingly well leaving a nice smooth finish with just a little support garf on the underside where nobody looks. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/10/2021 10:26:00 PM EDT
[#36]
Remixed G26X with a small magwell I remixed from a design I found online and fit to the PY2A "G19" grip. I wanted something to mask the rough edge on the bottom of the grip a bit.
 Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/11/2021 7:53:13 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Remixed G26X with a small magwell I remixed from a design I found online and fit to the PY2A "G19" grip. I wanted something to mask the rough edge on the bottom of the grip a bit. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/157876/IMG_20210907_230316051_jpg-2085983.JPG That turned out great! |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/13/2021 3:46:49 PM EDT
[#38]
Discovered today that with a light bit of modding at the tail and around the rail, the PY2A frames work great in the Recover Tactical braces.
Modded the G45 that I printed a couple weeks ago to fit, seems to function well in there.  Attached FileAssuming it functions as expected at the range, I'll pick up a RMR cut slide and stick one of my Holosuns on there to ease slide manipulation. ETA: and yes, I am aware that is a knockoff Surefire. Wasn't gonna put anything nice on what is essentially a range toy. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/13/2021 8:38:38 PM EDT
[#39]
So I took a recently printed py2a g45 to the range this weekend and it had all kinds of malfunctions- a handful of light (non-centered) primer strikes and a few FTEs. It would usually fire the round chambered, but there were a few times it wouldn’t unlock and I had to really yank the slide to get it open.
I printed a new frame similar to others shown in this thread by angling it at 45 degrees, and it came out great! It was so much easier to clean up than printing it frame down. I tried to run a few snap caps through it, but it will sometimes still hang up and not unlock unluess I pull on it pretty hard. Has anyone else had to deal with something like this? No OEM parts or another Glock to test with the frame/slide. It has AIM slide/barrel/upper parts, match point locking block, & KM tactical lower parts. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/11/2021 2:35:04 PM EDT
[#40]
 G19 3D print My G19 is finally running. It needs hotter ammo than I normally load, hence the one weak eject on the second mag. This isn't the first time out with the gun but it is the most successful. It likes Blue Bullets better than my cast bullets. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/11/2021 6:45:21 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looks great! I'm torn between which I like better, the small dot pattern or the grid, the dots have more texture but the squares give that old grenade grip pattern chic. The next in my installment of not leaving enough alone is this mod to the G26X. Here I totally removed the thumb depressions in the grip and extended the raised area up for a more classic grip-panel look. Add in what I've found to be a better trigger undercut layout and also opened up the slot in the rail to fit a standard 1913 type accessory instead of the smaller Glock key. I also radiused the top edges a bit to smooth things out overall. One last thing I did but you can't see here, is to add a tiny bit of extra material in specific spots of the back of the grip on those vertical "steps" where the web of your hand goes. I noticed on my prints there's two spots there, right where the rear of the PY2A back rail rests that the printed wall is very thin, and I was getting minor holes opening up there. Nothing structurally compromising, but cosmetically it bothered me so I widened the "steps" where it was happening to give it a little more meat in the print. If you didn't know it was done you'd probably never notice. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/157876/sztnj_jpg-2061257.JPG Where can I find this? |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/11/2021 6:55:23 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Discovered today that with a light bit of modding at the tail and around the rail, the PY2A frames work great in the Recover Tactical braces. Modded the G45 that I printed a couple weeks ago to fit, seems to function well in there. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/33932/IMG_2863_jpeg-2089386.JPG Assuming it functions as expected at the range, I'll pick up a RMR cut slide and stick one of my Holosuns on there to ease slide manipulation. ETA: and yes, I am aware that is a knockoff Surefire. Wasn't gonna put anything nice on what is essentially a range toy. What magwell did you find that fits? |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/11/2021 7:07:25 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Where can I find this? Shoot me a PM with your email and I can send you the file. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/11/2021 7:43:26 PM EDT
[#44]
 Attached File Attached FileNoted some cracks at the locking block. I have some strengthening ideas and report results, but only if it works. LOL I am going to print one at 45* like others have had good luck with. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/13/2021 10:46:20 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/255381/IMG_2318_jpeg-2126589.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/255381/IMG_2317_jpeg-2126590.JPG Noted some cracks at the locking block. I have some strengthening ideas and report results, but only if it works. LOL I am going to print one at 45* like others have had good luck with. Cura? Try "Alternate Extra Wall" for a little extra strength. Also if you pick 100% infill it only will print the infill with lines as the infill pattern no matter what you set the infill pattern to be. It's a known bug/feature in Cura. If you pick anything less than that you can change the infill pattern. I just started playing with infill of 99.99% and infill line distance as small as it lets you which seems to be .04mm. I'm just playing around with a random 3d file just to learn about the different infill patterns. Also keep an eye on the amount of filament for the print as it changes massively depending on what pattern you pick. Examples: All the same random 3d object with 99.99% infill with .4mm Infill Line Distance Lines shows 67g for the print. Grid is 96g Triangles is 126g Tri-Hexigon is 126g Cubic is 126g Cubic Subdivision is 65g Octet is 96g Quarter Cubic is 96g Concentric is 67g Zig Zag is 67g Cross is 61g Cross 3d is 59g Gyroid is 66g And for caparison an infill of 100% with a infill pattern of Lines total amount of filament used is 67g I am surprised there is such a variance between the infill patterns. So assuming the pattern that uses the most material for the infill is the strongest. Triangles, Tri-Hexagon and cubic should be much stronger than lines for infill. I also compared the layers with each pattern, looked at one above or below the other. My vote for strongest infill at 99.99% infill and .4mm Infill Line Distance is Tri-Hexigon. Of course I would need to test it first to be sure but I think it would be the best. Cura Screenshots: Infill at 100% with infill line distance at .4mm and lines as infill pattern:  Infill at 99.99% with infill line distance at .4mm and infill pattern Tri-Hexigon.  |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/4/2021 4:03:46 PM EDT
[#46]
Ok question @D_Man or anyone else who may know when adding supports in cura is there a way to have it not go to the build plate. I am thinking I was to branch from other supports but i cannot figure it out. help ....please
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
