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Posted: 8/26/2018 10:07:20 PM EDT
As I enjoy the last year of my mid-forties, my facial hair has decided to finally start growing enough to need shaving every 2-3 days. My whiskers are patchy and coarse, but slow to grow compared to my sons. They are all capable of growing full beards, as they are only half-Sioux.
I’ve gotten along with running a Bic single blade over my face once or twice a month until my mid-thirties. Free mail sample Gillette Mach 3 and Fusion razors have been my go-tos for a decade or so, but they're not ideal. Recently a friend I’ve known for years has introduced me to vintage-style single and double edge shaving, and I have to say that I like it. I mentioned to my buddy that I saw a cool-looking vintage razor in the Wes Anderson film, ‘The Royal Tenenbaums’, and after identifying it, a GEM 1912 from around 1925-1927, asked me if I wanted one. I’m glad I said yes, because this is a great razor. It’s probably close to a hundred years old and still doing well. My DE is one of those Haagen-Daz razors that can be found at Walgreens. A good razor but the blades that come in the kit are inconsistent as hell. My buddy gave me a selection of DE blades from Wilkinson Sword and other brands for me to try. But the real kicker is the GEM 1912 single-edge razor and a pack of Treet blades. The Gem isn’t the fastest shave I’ve ever had, but it’s very precise and comfortable, even on the tornado of whiskers that grow under my jaw. Control is easy and intuitive, and cleanup is a snap. Best of all, they’re cheap if you look around, and single-edge blades are easy to handle and dispose of. |
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[#1]
I knew before clicking the TL;DR was going to be "eventually".
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[#3]
Some of us didn't mind reading the OP.
Reading can be enjoyable in addition to being informative. |
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[#4]
I have seen a fair amount of GEm and other single edge razors in antique stores. I didn’t even know you could buy good SE blades for a face, I thought all there was were utility blades like for box cutters and such.
My throwback razor is a Gillette slim adjustable. Have you tried the feather blades from Japan? They are quite sharp. Those Hagen daaz (VDH) are actually pretty good latherers. Not much for scent but slick. |
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[#5]
Quoted:
I have seen a fair amount of GEm and other single edge razors in antique stores. I didn’t even know you could buy good SE blades for a face, I thought all there was were utility blades like for box cutters and such. My throwback razor is a Gillette slim adjustable. Have you tried the feather blades from Japan? They are quite sharp. Those Hagen daaz (VDH) are actually pretty good latherers. Not much for scent but slick. View Quote Single edge blades are easy to find, just don’t mistakenly get the utility blades. I’m getting the hang of wet shaving, so I think it’s time to move away from my usual can of Barbasol. What’s a good lube/cream/soap recommendation? |
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[#6]
Quoted:
What’s a good lube/cream/soap recommendation? View Quote |
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[#7]
Quoted:
I’ve only used the Gem once, but it was more comfortable than my DE razor. I hand-stropped the blade before use and then went to work. Single edge blades are easy to find, just don’t mistakenly get the utility blades. I’m getting the hang of wet shaving, so I think it’s time to move away from my usual can of Barbasol. What’s a good lube/cream/soap recommendation? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I have seen a fair amount of GEm and other single edge razors in antique stores. I didn’t even know you could buy good SE blades for a face, I thought all there was were utility blades like for box cutters and such. My throwback razor is a Gillette slim adjustable. Have you tried the feather blades from Japan? They are quite sharp. Those Hagen daaz (VDH) are actually pretty good latherers. Not much for scent but slick. Single edge blades are easy to find, just don’t mistakenly get the utility blades. I’m getting the hang of wet shaving, so I think it’s time to move away from my usual can of Barbasol. What’s a good lube/cream/soap recommendation? I’ve also bought Ariana & Eve and Lather Bros., also good but a bit more and they don’t necessarily offer a better shave, just different scents. |
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[#8]
I’ll definitely check into the recommended products.
My buddy who gave me the razor and blades is a bit of a hipster when it comes to shaving products. His main razor is a Gillette ‘doughboy’ razor, and he’s always looking out for the rest of the kit. He enjoys having someone to impart his shaving wisdom upon, since his Philistine older brother is a die-hard Bic disposable/Barbasol kind of guy. |
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[#9]
For soap, I find Arko to be my favorite. It's cheap, it works really well, and I've come to love it's strange aroma. Needs a brush though.
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[#12]
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[#13]
A quick update:
As I make my way through the assortment of different blades from my friend, my new favorite DE blades are from Personna. They shave clean, smooth, nickfree, and quickly. Don’t know how long they last, but my first shave with it was outstanding. Gem single-edge blades are my favorite since I discovered rust on the Treets I had spoken so highly of. The Gems are stainless and lasted almost 10 shaves before it got grabby. Sadly, it’s the only one of that brand I have, but I’ll be sure to order more soon. Still using the Barbasol because I’m too cheap to toss it, and my daughter thinks that her son is too young to shoot the can with my pellet gun. Chicks, man... |
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[#14]
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[#16]
Attached File
Attached File My 80 year old parents recently moved and this razor belonged to one of my relatives. The date code says it’s from the 3rd quarter of 1965, and I’m going to start using it after I clean it up. |
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[#17]
Quoted:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15874/47D72DC6-B56C-4003-B7AF-81ACF2DDC88F_jpeg-1042586.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15874/3E5B96EA-D35C-47A7-BD49-FD316716AEA3_jpeg-1042587.JPG My 80 year old parents recently moved and this razor belonged to one of my relatives. The date code says it’s from the 3rd quarter of 1965, and I’m going to start using it after I clean it up. View Quote James Bond used that razor in Goldfinger. Kaboom tile cleaner will clean it pretty well, just let it soak a while and the schmutz will come right off. Try not to use anything abrasive on it, the chrome plating over the brass was thin when new and hasn't gotten thicker over the years. IIRC, a "4" setting is about average, same blade gap as the standard Gillette Superspeed of the time. Make sure the doors are open or at least loose when you change the adjustment dial, they aren't meant to be adjusted in the closed position. |
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[#18]
Quoted:
Gillette Slim Adjustable. James Bond used that razor in Goldfinger. Kaboom tile cleaner will clean it pretty well, just let it soak a while and the schmutz will come right off. Try not to use anything abrasive on it, the chrome plating over the brass was thin when new and hasn't gotten thicker over the years. IIRC, a "4" setting is about average, same blade gap as the standard Gillette Superspeed of the time. Make sure the doors are open or at least loose when you change the adjustment dial, they aren't meant to be adjusted in the closed position. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15874/47D72DC6-B56C-4003-B7AF-81ACF2DDC88F_jpeg-1042586.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15874/3E5B96EA-D35C-47A7-BD49-FD316716AEA3_jpeg-1042587.JPG My 80 year old parents recently moved and this razor belonged to one of my relatives. The date code says it’s from the 3rd quarter of 1965, and I’m going to start using it after I clean it up. James Bond used that razor in Goldfinger. Kaboom tile cleaner will clean it pretty well, just let it soak a while and the schmutz will come right off. Try not to use anything abrasive on it, the chrome plating over the brass was thin when new and hasn't gotten thicker over the years. IIRC, a "4" setting is about average, same blade gap as the standard Gillette Superspeed of the time. Make sure the doors are open or at least loose when you change the adjustment dial, they aren't meant to be adjusted in the closed position. |
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[#19]
Quoted: Will CLR do for a soaking cleaner? I have lots of it but no Kaboom!. View Quote Scrubbing Bubbles works, I've used that myself. A lot. Here's the B&B restoration page. They know their stuff. Frankly I've just heard that Kaboom works, never tried it myself. Probably should've recommended the Scrubbing Bubbles right off the hop actually. |
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[#20]
Most of what I can see on that razor is just soap and crud buildup. That's easy to clean. If you find rust, don't freak out like a gun guy. It's from the blades used in it, not the razor itself. It'll clean right off.
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[#21]
I have wiry bristle-brush facial hair and sensitive skin, so take that into account...
Blades - over the last year + I've tried quite a few. Feather are sharp but leave me with cuts, scrapes and weeps. Derby give me only one really good shave. Shark felt like they were pulling my hair out. Astra nicked me up pretty good. Voskhod gives me two good shaves. Persona Red also gives me two good shaves. Will be trying the Persona Platinums soon. Soap/ cream - so far I've tried several soaps from Sterling Soap Company. Their "Barber Shop" is the only one I've used that generated inquires and unsolicited compliments from a few women. I've also used Nivea Men Sensitive Shave Gel, works great. Their Sensitive Cooling Post Shave Balm works great for me. |
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[#23]
Quoted: https://i.pinimg.com/736x/48/1b/9f/481b9ff5062db22f3af6bb4aead71c6f.jpg You need one of those, my good sir. Not the new fancy fat-headed open combs, a fucking Gillette "New", 1929-1940. ETA- that thick handle's the shit, aim for that. The ball tipped handles suuuuuuuuck. View Quote Of the three razors I have, the old Superspeed and the 34C are good, but the 3-piece from Sterling is a bit better. I think the blade angle and handle size fit me best of the three. The Persona Reds are the first blades I've had that sing for me. |
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[#25]
Quoted:
Most of what I can see on that razor is just soap and crud buildup. That's easy to clean. If you find rust, don't freak out like a gun guy. It's from the blades used in it, not the razor itself. It'll clean right off. View Quote With the collar set at 5 it gave a close shave, and it didn’t get grabby or overly sharp when i cranked it all the way to 9. Yes, I did open it up before adjusting the height. It’s quite possibly the closest shave I’ve ever had, and yet my face doesn’t feel scraped-up or irritated at all. Since I don’t have any face cream yet I made do with a small dab of Curel dry skin cream I found in a drawer, and my face looks and feels like twenty bucks. I think that the blade is relatively mild, and so maybe stepping up to a more aggressive edge, while playing around with the lower settings, might be in store for me. |
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[#26]
All these modern razors!
Learned how to wet shave a few centuries ago using double edge razor and also one of these: Attached File Attached File |
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[#27]
Here is some good info as for soaps and creams: https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/Whats-your-favorite-shaving-soap-/179-1854993/
My current favorite razor is a Maggard Razors DE Safety Razor MR5 Stainless Steel Handle with V2 open comb head.: Attached File |
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[#28]
Is Razor Emporium a good place to get replacement blades? They have the Gem single-edge blades that I like, as well as some different sample packs of double-edge blades, too.
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[#29]
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[#30]
Quoted:
Is Razor Emporium a good place to get replacement blades? They have the Gem single-edge blades that I like, as well as some different sample packs of double-edge blades, too. View Quote |
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[#31]
Quoted:
Is Razor Emporium a good place to get replacement blades? They have the Gem single-edge blades that I like, as well as some different sample packs of double-edge blades, too. View Quote |
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[#32]
Well..........just put in an order for a Rockwell 6S from Rockwell and an assortment of blades from West Coast Shaving. Jumping back into the DE razor shaving after almost 50 years. Already have a Silvertip brush and other wet shave supplies.
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[#33]
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I’m apparently getting my Great or great-great grandfather’s razor strop from my mom. No idea how old this is, but its original owner died in the early 1900s. I’m thinking of getting a straight razor, but would need LOTS of practice before actually trying to shave with it. |
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[#34]
I have a cheap ass double.
If I'm careful, I don't look like I was attacked by a babcat. |
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[#35]
Well the 6S came in on Sunday. Too busy with Dorian crap to even think about it. Storm gone for us finally got to kick back. Did a quick post shower shave with it. Holy shit!! Night and day difference from what I remember way back when 50ish yrs ago! Actually enjoyed shaving. Far cry from the Mach3 I have been using, better shave with less strokes, no burning. Why the hell did I wait so long????
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[#36]
I’ve noticed that my stubble grows back more slowly since I’ve been shaving Old-Style. I keep my Slim set at 5, but will click it up to 9, depending on which blade I’m using and how close I want to cut.
The cheap Walgreen’s stainless blades I’m trying seem to be a good mate to the old razor, though it really shone with the Wilkinson blades I recently ran out of. |
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[#37]
Quoted:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15874/60E5F773-0B68-4770-925A-9362F4B2080B_jpeg-1069401.JPG I’m apparently getting my Great or great-great grandfather’s razor strop from my mom. No idea how old this is, but its original owner died in the early 1900s. I’m thinking of getting a straight razor, but would need LOTS of practice before actually trying to shave with it. View Quote MLG |
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[#38]
You can get Truefitt and Hill soap and brushes in the U.S. now - I highly recommend them.
Uhhh... expect some sticker shock, but nothing as bad as some of the hipster brands I’ve seen people discuss here. I wish they’d make razor handles for Schick disposables, but the only modern cartridges they make them for is Gillette’s shit. |
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[#39]
Attached File
Thanks to a very generous Arfcommer I now have probably two year’s worth of blades to try out. My beloved Wilkies are in the mix, as are Feathers(eek..), but I’ve never heard of the rest of them. My Gillette Slim and Van Der Haagen will be getting a workout as soon as I save up some stubble. It still takes three days or so to grow out enough whiskers to justify shaving. |
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[#40]
FWIW - the Rockwell 6C was a great replacement for my Gillette Slim Adjustable Razor. It includes 3 bases that provide 6 gap settings (each base can be flipped for 2 settings), and it's less than 50 USD. Read the 15 week review via the Amazon link above for more detail. Gillette lost me as a customer with their SWJ advertising. Don't even buy their blades anymore...
I find that any shave soap made using Tallow works best in my hard water. Also, glycerine based soaps dry out my skin... A few of my favorite Tallow soap vendors: Mystic Water Soap for Men, Stirling Soap Company, and Mitchel's Wool Fat Shaving Soap *The lanolin in Mitchel's Wool Fat leaves your face feeling great! You've got a great selection of blades to try out, remember that every razor model is slightly different (gap and angle) so what works in one, may not be the best for the other... |
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[#41]
Hoo-wee, the Astras will cut some hair!
And lips. And nose. And neck. I’ve gotta refine my technique some more & dial in the razor itself. The Walgreen’s blades needed 9 to cut closely and safely, but the Astras need to be closer to 4-5 and a much lighter hand. Damn, do they shave closely, though. |
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[#42]
A 4 on the adjustables is about the same as the standard gap on a Superspeed, the most common nonadjustable razor of its time. Call that "normal"
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[#43]
Big Ben Super Stainless blades and my Van derHagen razor make for a mild, forgiving, yet surprisingly close shave. No weeping or irritation afterward, though it took a few more strokes than my Gillette Slim & Astra blades, and Astras left me nicked-up after every shave.
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[#44]
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[#45]
I found Sharks somewhat inconsistent, three or so fine blades in a five pack, two that ripped me to shit. Same with Derby blades.
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[#46]
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[#47]
Gillette 7o’clock blades are really sharp and unforgiving to my face. If my technique is a little rushed I’m a bloody mess by the time I’m through.
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[#48]
Give those USA-made Personnas a go. My skin is very sensitive to shaving (which led me to the whole old-school shaving process in the first place) and the Personnas have been great. Not super sharp like Feathers.....but just right and always consistent. They only start to give inconsistent performance once they start to get dull.....for me, after about 6-8 shaves. Personnas and green label Proraso soap has been perfection for me for years.
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