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Posted: 8/14/2023 2:44:47 PM EST
[#1]
The "testing" they do at leslies is basically some snot nosed teenager throwing darts at a board to name random things out of balance and then trying to sell you chemicals. You can verify this by taking 2 different samples of water in to them from the same pool. You will get different results, and guaranteed they will try to sell you some chemicals based off it.
Buy the blue tacklebox test kit and learn to do it yourself. Much more expensive than chemicals is the structural and functional crap. Is the pool cracked, is the liner torn, does it leak, etc. Those turn into thousands of dollars real quick. With the pump handle being broken, timer not working right, and the salt cell not working, that pool will turn green pretty quick. |
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Posted: 8/14/2023 2:50:32 PM EST
[#2]
Follow Troublefreepool.com
Everything you ask will be easily and quickly answered. It's not difficult or expensive or time consuming once you get it right. |
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Posted: 8/14/2023 3:19:46 PM EST
[#3]
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Posted: 8/14/2023 3:23:12 PM EST
[#4]
 
This one? Also found this from TFP.com. Seems very complete. https://tftestkits.net/TF-Pro-Salt-with-SmartStir-p119.html Also best place to buy pool chemicals from? |
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Posted: 8/14/2023 3:49:28 PM EST
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: www.amazon.com/dp/B0002IXIHM This one? Also found this from TFP.com. Seems very complete. https://tftestkits.net/TF-Pro-Salt-with-SmartStir-p119.html Also best place to buy pool chemicals from? That first one looks like it. You may end up buying the standalone salt test if that doesnt cover it. I dont think mine cost even half that price. For chemicals, I get salt from lowes and a couple of the common ones like baking soda and washing powder from the grocery store. CYA online is like half the price of leslies. If you want to shock the pool, lowes sells the high-proof bleach compared to the grocery store. About the only thing I buy from leslies is floc when you want to clear the water up. |
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Posted: 8/14/2023 4:54:53 PM EST
[#6]
Taylor test kit is best test kit.
Without pictures to know exactly what we are looking at... Flow (or pressure) switch should be pretty standard stuff, probably fint it cheap online and usually an easy swap. 3-way valve; sometimes you can buy just the internals, or a whole new one and just swap the internals. Diving board..scrap it. No one wants a giant fiberglass schlong to have to walk around, the novelty wears off quick. Turn it into a bar. ETA: I would plan on a sand change in the filter, cause ew. |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 7:47:38 AM EST
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Taylor test kit is best test kit. Without pictures to know exactly what we are looking at... Flow (or pressure) switch should be pretty standard stuff, probably fint it cheap online and usually an easy swap. 3-way valve; sometimes you can buy just the internals, or a whole new one and just swap the internals. Diving board..scrap it. No one wants a giant fiberglass schlong to have to walk around, the novelty wears off quick. Turn it into a bar. ETA: I would plan on a sand change in the filter, cause ew. Quick search about the chlorine generator shows the flow switch is part of the electrode. The switch moves back and forth indicating flow direction.They have a pretty detailed troubleshooting guideline online and the electrode can be cleaned or replaced. It reads like its just the handle on the 3 way valve doesn't stay on, but the valve still operates. Its a short diving board, I don't even think it flexes much. but comment noted, we'll see how my kids like it. Can you expand on the sand change in the filter? I don't know what that even means. New type of filter? |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 8:06:28 AM EST
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Quick search about the chlorine generator shows the flow switch is part of the electrode. The switch moves back and forth indicating flow direction.They have a pretty detailed troubleshooting guideline online and the electrode can be cleaned or replaced. It reads like its just the handle on the 3 way valve doesn't stay on, but the valve still operates. Its a short diving board, I don't even think it flexes much. but comment noted, we'll see how my kids like it. Can you expand on the sand change in the filter? I don't know what that even means. New type of filter? In a sand filter, the filter media is sand. You have no idea how long thats been in there or what all is trapped in it or growing in it. You can replace the sand with new sand that hasn't had 10 years worth of strangers' body fluids run through it. |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 8:16:23 AM EST
[#9]
Flo switch is a five minute job. If the salt cell controller is bad, check the thermosistor, cheap .40 part and 5 minute soldering job. Pool light replacement should not be hard if the conduit is not broken. Sand replacement is a 30 minute job with a shop vac. I have a 20x40 salt pool. When the salt cell is working I do nothing really. I do not use the Polaris or the pump anymore. I bought a Maytronics Nautlis pool bot.
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Posted: 8/15/2023 8:25:53 AM EST
[#10]
No, that test kit in the picture is not good, it is lacking one of the most important test features.
The one in your second link is the Cadillac of test kits, buy once, cry once. You'll use it every week as long as the pool is open, so it's worth the money. Edit...if you get it right, you will NEVER need to shock your pool. I haven't in 7 years. |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 8:51:14 AM EST
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Quick search about the chlorine generator shows the flow switch is part of the electrode. The switch moves back and forth indicating flow direction.They have a pretty detailed troubleshooting guideline online and the electrode can be cleaned or replaced. It reads like its just the handle on the 3 way valve doesn't stay on, but the valve still operates. Its a short diving board, I don't even think it flexes much. but comment noted, we'll see how my kids like it. Can you expand on the sand change in the filter? I don't know what that even means. New type of filter? First let me say that I've been out of the pool business for a while... The valves we used has an SS pin that held the handle on and was the pivot, new handle could be swapped in a minute. I'm sure most brands have something similar..."should" be easy. The sand filter filters the water top-down so the filter area is actually the largest diameter of the filter. What can and often happens is that that layer gets impacted with oils, body lotions, hair and other nastyness which then lowers the efficiency of the filter. Even with good backwash habits, the oily (greasy) stuff can be hard to impossible to remove, thus the sand change. Not a hard process, an easy DIY, you just need to make sure you get all new gaskets and oring and do it on a day where you can run to the pool store if you find any bad laterals. I could tell horror stories about sand filters. As an FYI, sand filters are the easiest but least efficient, D.E. are the most work but filter the best, cartridge are in between. |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 9:03:27 AM EST
[#12]
I appreciate the responses so far.
I think I'll order the TF-Pro salt test kit. I need to call the pool company thats currently maintaining the pool under the old owner and see if I can get a history or logs. If the flow cell isn't working, the chlorine generator can't be working. do you think that rather than fix the flow switch/cell, they just "un-converted" away from salt? TFP forums have been pretty good and helpful just reading. Should be pretty simple once I understand where the pool is and not to get distracted with fancy chemicals too much. I've got the pool math app already on my phone. I've got a background in submarines, so water chemistry is a familiar subject to me. Never been much of a "lawn guy" but I think I can get behind keeping/maintaining a nice pool. |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 9:15:14 AM EST
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I appreciate the responses so far. I think I'll order the TF-Pro salt test kit. I need to call the pool company thats currently maintaining the pool under the old owner and see if I can get a history or logs. If the flow cell isn't working, the chlorine generator can't be working. do you think that rather than fix the flow switch/cell, they just "un-converted" away from salt? TFP forums have been pretty good and helpful just reading. Should be pretty simple once I understand where the pool is and not to get distracted with fancy chemicals too much. I've got the pool math app already on my phone. I've got a background in submarines, so water chemistry is a familiar subject to me. Never been much of a "lawn guy" but I think I can get behind keeping/maintaining a nice pool. If it is not working and making chlorine, and they have lots of chlorine stuff to give away, they just in-converted due to cost. |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 1:38:01 PM EST
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If it is not working and making chlorine, and they have lots of chlorine stuff to give away, they just in-converted due to cost. Just seems like a $50 flow switch or $200 salt cell would be worth it to not add chlorine daily. I guess I'll find out next week. troublefreepool has been a great read so far. |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 1:48:52 PM EST
[#15]
Get the Taylor Mac daddy pool testing kit from TFP. You can refill it each season at a significant discount.
https://tftestkits.net/TF-Pro-Salt-with-SmartStir-p119.html Also get the TFP app. If you enter accurate data, it is very good at telling you exactly what you need and how much to add. Baseline the pool and make changes slowly. You should be good to go in 2-3 weeks. After that, assuming no leaks and all equipment in working order, you might have to add 40lbs of salt and/or a half gallon of muratic acid every few months. Salt pools are easy in GA if you just test, clean out the strainers and use a pool brush once a week. Lastly, a Polaris is worth its weight in gold. Edit: Don’t go to Leslie’s unless you enjoy paying KAC prices for PSA labeled gear. TFP Taylor kits will cover all of your testing needs and Amazon has the best prices on quality poles and nets, parts. |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 2:00:24 PM EST
[#16]
Pro tip:
For dialing in on an accurate volume #, start with your best estimate. Using the Pool Math app and testing before/after adding of chemicals, you’ll see the exact changes predicted vs. actual test results. You can then bump up/down your pool volume # in the app until the recommended amounts of chemicals being added, results in the exact test readings predicted by the app. Using this method, I have fine tuned the app/pool volume to the point where I follow the Pool Math app recommendations 100%. |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 2:24:40 PM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Get the Taylor Mac daddy pool testing kit from TFP. You can refill it each season at a significant discount. https://tftestkits.net/TF-Pro-Salt-with-SmartStir-p119.html Also get the TFP app. If you enter accurate data, it is very good at telling you exactly what you need and how much to add. Baseline the pool and make changes slowly. You should be good to go in 2-3 weeks. After that, assuming no leaks and all equipment in working order, you might have to add 40lbs of salt and/or a half gallon of muratic acid every few months. Salt pools are easy in GA if you just test, clean out the strainers and use a pool brush once a week. Lastly, a Polaris is worth its weight in gold. Edit: Don’t go to Leslie’s unless you enjoy paying KAC prices for PSA labeled gear. TFP Taylor kits will cover all of your testing needs and Amazon has the best prices on quality poles and nets, parts. Thanks. That seem to be the consensus for sure about the testing and chemicals. I'm checking with my work supplier for chemicals to see if they'll allow a personal account to buy some chemicals, rather than deal with wal mart or lowes/home depot. Which model polaris cleaner? and needed on what I think is a relatively small pool? 1k-1600 seems like a small investment if it keeps it clean without much work |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 2:37:58 PM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks. That seem to be the consensus for sure about the testing and chemicals. I'm checking with my work supplier for chemicals to see if they'll allow a personal account to buy some chemicals, rather than deal with wal mart or lowes/home depot. Which model polaris cleaner? and needed on what I think is a relatively small pool? 1k-1600 seems like a small investment if it keeps it clean without much work I’ve got the old Polaris 360 that came with house. In 10 years I have replaced the Polaris pump (~$500), refreshed the 360 with a rebuild kit ($120), and purchased 4-6 leaf bags ($45). The Polaris looked old when we purchased the house but it worked great so I decided to keep it in good shape until the wheels fell off. I’ve got nothing to compare it to but it keeps our 28k gallon pool on a heavily wooded lot clean 24/7/365. We run the pool year round so it gets about 6 hrs of runtime per day. I’d buy it again in a heartbeat. |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 11:05:14 PM EST
[#19]
We bought a house with a pool two years ago. Same size as yours 18x36 vinyl with a 8' deep end and diving board. Vacant for 18 months - the pool was a literal swamp with frogs and tadpoles. Surprised we didn't find any catfish! Advice from troublefreepool.com got it cleaned up. I also use their Pool Math iPhone app to calculate chemical dosing. From what I've found, all I've ever added is bleach and CYA. PH is never off and vinyl isn't sensitive to calcium levels like a gunite pool is.
We don't have a salt system, wish we did, so we use bleach. If you need to chlorinate until you can get the salt system online, check for a bulk bleach (sodium hypochlorite) supplier like a pressure washing retailer/wholesaler. MUCH cheaper than Leslie's, WalMart, or Lowes. We got two of the Polaris pool sweepers with the house. One in pieces and one that still works. I love that thing. Never have to vacuum manually or scoop leaves off the bottom. |
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Posted: 8/16/2023 9:11:13 AM EST
[#20]
Thanks guys. I'll look into a cleaner. We aren't heavily wooded so I guess it depends how much time I spend scooping out leaves.
How important is the 1oz vs 2oz bottles of the test kit? The TF test kits come with 1oz and the Taylor 2006C comes with 2oz. With winter approaching I think I'd be ok with the 1oz TF pro salt kit |
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Posted: 8/16/2023 9:36:35 AM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks guys. I'll look into a cleaner. We aren't heavily wooded so I guess it depends how much time I spend scooping out leaves. How important is the 1oz vs 2oz bottles of the test kit? The TF test kits come with 1oz and the Taylor 2006C comes with 2oz. With winter approaching I think I'd be ok with the 1oz TF pro salt kit 1 oz should be fine. I get this refill kit whenever I run low.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/16/2023 9:59:21 AM EST
[#22]
I do most of the work myself. Allow yourself several hours a week and don’t get behind.
Go ahead and know you’re going to always be replacing stuff. Motors last 5-10 years at best. Liners about that long. But you will be nickeled and dimed the rest of your life. But I really enjoy mine. Go swimming several times a day. Kids and Grandkids use it a lot. |
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Posted: 8/16/2023 10:19:50 AM EST
[#23]
Thanks. Just ordered the TFT pro salt and some of the accessories. Pool gets service next week before closing, so I'll tag along with the pool guy. If sample kit is here, I'll try to take my own sample and analysis.
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Posted: 8/16/2023 10:34:10 AM EST
[#24]
pools are not that tough you will be fine, when in doubt just test strip and see where things are. keep the filter running and the more you use it and the hotter the temp the more chemicals its going to use.
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Posted: 8/16/2023 11:17:09 AM EST
[#25]
Since this is your 1st pool, maybe pick up a Pool Rx and throw it into the pump strainer basket. It will kill algae for 6 months and allow you a margin of error as you acclimate with adjusting chemical levels and get into the “flow”.
 Attached Filehttps://www.poolrx.com/ |
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Posted: 8/16/2023 11:50:55 AM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Since this is your 1st pool, maybe pick up a Pool Rx and throw it into the pump strainer basket. It will kill algae for 6 months and allow you a margin of error as you acclimate with adjusting chemical levels and get into the “flow”. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/309598/IMG_0595_jpeg-2921567.JPG https://www.poolrx.com/ I think I'll be skipping these at the moment. Copper, zinc, and silver nitrate? (which is a Cl indicator). What do they do that Chlorine doesn't? They also mention they only need low levels of Chlorine (.5-1) but maintaining proper chlorine levels seems to be the and easiest ways to keep algae out of the pool. |
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Posted: 8/16/2023 7:10:50 PM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I think I'll be skipping these at the moment. Copper, zinc, and silver nitrate? (which is a Cl indicator). What do they do that Chlorine doesn't? They also mention they only need low levels of Chlorine (.5-1) but maintaining proper chlorine levels seems to be the and easiest ways to keep algae out of the pool. Metals kill algae. Salt pools should never have a problem because they are providing a constant steam of fresh new chlorine. ETA: The poster above was suggesting it as a preventitive until you become a pro pool owner I think. |
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Posted: 8/16/2023 7:26:01 PM EST
[#28]
Black algae can still bloom in a GA salt water pool. I was suggesting it as “insurance” while OP dials in his pool.
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Posted: 8/16/2023 7:56:20 PM EST
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Since this is your 1st pool, maybe pick up a Pool Rx and throw it into the pump strainer basket. It will kill algae for 6 months and allow you a margin of error as you acclimate with adjusting chemical levels and get into the “flow”. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/309598/IMG_0595_jpeg-2921567.JPG https://www.poolrx.com/ DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!! |
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Posted: 8/17/2023 9:08:17 AM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Black algae can still bloom in a GA salt water pool. I was suggesting it as “insurance” while OP dials in his pool. I appreciate it and will certainly consider it. But at the moment it seems like its fixing a problem that doesn't exist for sure. Pool guy is coming next week to service it and I'm going to tag along and ask them all my dumb questions about the equipment and get a baseline of the pool chemistry. I think my main priority will be get the SWG back up and running normally. Along with the pump timer, I'm not sure how its operating with out the clock working. |
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Posted: 8/18/2023 8:17:02 AM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!! Curious as to why not? They are compatible for use in salt water pools. Early this summer, my salt cell died and I had a black algae bloom while I was waiting on the new salt cell to arrive. Shocking the pool did nothing to the black algae. I then purchased and threw the Pool Rx in the pump strainer basket and the algae started clearing up within 48 hrs. The salt cell arrived a few days later and I transitioned back to only using it. My chemical levels are in spec across the board. |
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Posted: 8/18/2023 5:00:18 PM EST
[#32]
Where in west GA? If close to Sharpsburg, Debbie's Pools is a great local store and very helpful. Her son also has a pool repair/ service company.
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Posted: 8/22/2023 2:52:17 PM EST
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Where in west GA? If close to Sharpsburg, Debbie's Pools is a great local store and very helpful. Her son also has a pool repair/ service company. Newnan. Met the pool guy today. It was their company policy to not tell "non owners" the pool chemistry, its its some sort of magic. Dude I'll be the owner on friday. I watched him scrub, vaccuum, do some fast testing (didn't see him do the CYA test), didn't write anything down, quirt some blue stuff in, then refill a surface floater with some tri chlor tabs. Anyways took a sample myself and tested myself. pH 7.6 w/ the digital meter, 7.2 using the comparator in the kit Cl, orange in the color comparator, FC=11.5 using the drops CC= 0-.5 (took one drop, was barely not clear to start) CH= 175ppm CYA= 100ppm (very subjective test and the disappearing dot method). so maybe its not this high but it was certainly obscured by the lowest mark. TA=70ppm salt: 1400ppm seems decent except for the CYA part from the triclor tabs seems like they should be going away form the triclor tabs and using liquid chlorine at this point. Also learned the SWG hasn't been operating for years, the cell is from 2016. The control panel has power and the "no flow" light illuminated. looks like first step might be turn SWG off/on, then turn pump off check the flow switch/inspect/clean salt cell. then replace one or both of them, but being that old it might all need replacing anyways just to be sure. |
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Posted: 8/22/2023 3:04:54 PM EST
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Newnan. Met the pool guy today. It was their company policy to not tell "non owners" the pool chemistry, its its some sort of magic. Dude I'll be the owner on friday. I watched him scrub, vaccuum, do some fast testing (didn't see him do the CYA test), didn't write anything down, quirt some blue stuff in, then refill a surface floater with some tri chlor tabs. Anyways took a sample myself and tested myself. pH 7.6 w/ the digital meter, 7.2 using the comparator in the kit Cl, orange in the color comparator, FC=11.5 using the drops CC= 0-.5 (took one drop, was barely not clear to start) CH= 175ppm CYA= 100ppm (very subjective test and the disappearing dot method). so maybe its not this high but it was certainly obscured by the lowest mark. TA=70ppm salt: 1400ppm seems decent except for the CYA part from the triclor tabs seems like they should be going away form the triclor tabs and using liquid chlorine at this point. Also learned the SWG hasn't been operating for years, the cell is from 2016. The control panel has power and the "no flow" light illuminated. looks like first step might be turn SWG off/on, then turn pump off check the flow switch/inspect/clean salt cell. then replace one or both of them, but being that old it might all need replacing anyways just to be sure. What exact salt cell do you have? Any chance it is this one?  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/22/2023 3:07:41 PM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Follow Troublefreepool.com Everything you ask will be easily and quickly answered. It's not difficult or expensive or time consuming once you get it right. This. The information you receive from your local Leslie's/Pinchapenny is 50/50 at best. I've been running a successful pool repair, route, retail & testing business since 2006 — 350-400 route / 2200 periodic customers. It amazes me every day that I'm at no risk of running out of work — not because it's difficult or costly, but because people can't be bothered to spend thirty minutes a week to keep their pool clear and running properly. I'm a bigger fan of Dolphin robotic cleaners than replacing your pump. Robotics do a superior job vacuuming, brushing, cleaning walls, scrubbing waterlines, all while being 20x more energy efficient and run independently. Raypak only does heating, so they make some of the best heaters in our industry. Unfortunately, they don't always communicate with other manufacturers' computer controls. Yours sounds like a pretty straightforward setup, so this likely isn't an issue. The handle is probably just missing the plastic screw that holds it on. Within five years, I would replace the sand in your filter with activated glass media (i.e. Vitroclean Green Glass) The more complex you make your equipment set, the more often you'll pay someone like me to come repair it. ETA: That Taylor test kit will service you fine, but would recommend adding the Taylor Salt test kit as well to ensure your cell is reading correctly once a month or so. |
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Posted: 8/22/2023 4:42:55 PM EST
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What exact salt cell do you have? Any chance it is this one? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/309598/PXL_20230626_222356439_jpeg-2928594.JPG  Attached FileI’m going to pull it and the flow switch once we close and see if the flow switch and cell need cleaning. If not replace both of them. Ok to upsize the salt cell for up to 40k gal instead of the up to 25/30k? |
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Posted: 8/22/2023 4:53:05 PM EST
[#37]
You will need a couple hundred pounds of salt if at 1440.
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Posted: 8/23/2023 8:02:28 AM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You will need a couple hundred pounds of salt if at 1440. Yep. 325lbs to go from 1400 to 3000 (mid of recommended range 2500-3400) I'm hoping I can clean the cell/flow switch and get it working. I didn't take a good picture of the whole pump setup, but it seems unlikely there's a valve isolating the salt cell that just needs to be opened to get flow back? |
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Posted: 8/27/2023 6:21:45 PM EST
[#39]
Small update.
The flow switch cable had been cut. either a weed eater or it just broke from sun exposure. $131 at leslies or $25 on amazon. Hopefully that fixes it. Should have it tomorrow and hopefully be generating CL and can stop the tablets. Walmart was out of the pool essentials bleach when I checked today. While I was there, took me in a sample for them. They CYA was at almost 200. That was the main offender so it looks like I'll need 2x 1ft drain and fills to cut that in half. The test kit max reading is 100 but it was obscured about half way to that so it makes sense. The pool company sucked at maintaining the pool. notices some significant algae/mold building up in the seems of the stairs. brushed it and skimmed it out. Waiting on an amazon deal to go live tonight on a Seauto seal SE robotic pool vaccuum for about $350. Not ready for a $1600 pool robot just yet. Are phosphates worriesome? or not until getting CYA and everything else balanced, then worry about them? |
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Posted: 8/27/2023 7:41:20 PM EST
[#40]
Pro tip #2:
Get salt at Walmart. In my AO, 40# bags are $5.50-6.50 at Walmart vs. $12 at Leslies. It adds up quick if you are planing on doing a drain/fill. |
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Posted: 8/28/2023 6:26:29 AM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Pro tip #2: Get salt at Walmart. In my AO, 40# bags are $5.50-6.50 at Walmart vs. $12 at Leslies. It adds up quick if you are planing on doing a drain/fill. walmart seems to be the best price on bleach too, but hit or miss when its in stock. I think the cal hypo might be a good substitute after this drain and fill to get calcium hardness back up, but i don't think thats as important on a vinyl liner as it would be for concrete. I'm going to need about 400lbs of salt or more. Hopefully this pool company that has been mismanaging my chemistry will pay for it. I sent them an email so we'll see what they say. Flow switch arrives today so hopefully that fixes the SWG. |
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Posted: 9/11/2023 11:40:18 AM EST
[#42]
Little Update: I did finally fix the SWG. The flow switch was bad. The cable had either been cut by weed eater or deteriorated from age/sun. My pump and stuff is all just on a pad out in the open.
So $30 amazon flow switch. I confirmed the salt cell was good/generating by testing in a bucket of salt water. I did my 3x drain 1ft/refill over a few days to get CYA back under 80. Added 13 bags of salt to get back to the high end of the range, and its been working great. Just dialing in the settings to keep good Chlorine levels now. 22 lbs of baking soda to restore TA, and I've been adding a little acid every few days to keep pH below 7.8. Pool company doesn't seem to think they are responsible for anything, since the previous owner didn't fix the SWG, and the "had to" maintain with tri-chlor tabs knowing full well CYA would be way too high. I'll be making some 1 star reviews and maybe go to small claims court over it. Its like $300 worth of chemicals/water I feel they are responsible for. Either that or the previous owner. |
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Posted: 9/11/2023 12:04:34 PM EST
[#43]
Good to see the pool working out for you!
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Posted: 9/11/2023 1:58:14 PM EST
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good to see the pool working out for you! Thanks. I ended up buying/returning a pool robot that was made for a flat pool and couldn't make it up from deep end. ended up with a wybot wall climber for about $400. my only issue is it keeps getting high centered on my drain. Do they make flat covers for them? ETA: guess the domed ones prevent entrapment from the suction, but I need a less domed one then. we just had a pool party for my 5yr old and everyone had a blast. all the pool work is worth it to have my kids hate leaving my house to go back to their moms. |
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Posted: 9/11/2023 3:09:00 PM EST
[#45]
How old is the pool? Plaster only lasts around 10 years.
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Posted: 9/12/2023 8:33:50 AM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How old is the pool? Plaster only lasts around 10 years. Its about 20yrs old but its a vinyl liner. Liner is faded pretty good and likely could get replaced next year or two. No idea how old the liner is, might be original. |
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Posted: 9/21/2023 10:09:59 AM EST
[#47]
Many peeps are using a spray-on-site fiberglass to line their pools. These can be refinished, instead of replaced, when that time comes.
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Posted: 9/21/2023 10:45:48 AM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Many peeps are using a spray-on-site fiberglass to line their pools. These can be refinished, instead of replaced, when that time comes. Interesting. no need at the moment, but the liner is pretty faded. Next project is tackling the pool light. popped it out the other day hoping it was just a leaky gasket/bulb replacement, but its rusted all the way through the fixture. Looks like its just a new fixture and pulling wire to the switch, should be too bad. |
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