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Posted: 10/2/2022 7:23:22 PM EDT
I have a Prusa MK3s+. New with only about 10 days of printing on the counter.
I have been trying to print with overture red petg. It clogs and start the blob of death around the nozzle and heat block pretty much immediately. Like before the first layer calibration if completed. I’ve tried prusament petg and generic petg settings in Prusa slicer. I have tried .4 stock brass nozzle and .4 Micro-Swiss Plated Brass Wear Resistant Nozzle. The filament was taken out of brand new vacuum sealed pack and dried for over 24 hrs before even attempting to use. I am new to 3d printing. I tried by using “factory” slicer presets, dry filament, and the z height higher than my PLA height. 230/240 85/90 240/250 85/90 Any help would be appreciated. |
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[#1]
Did you buy the printer assembled or as a kit?
ETA: And to clarify, is the filament just not sticking to the bed, or is the nozzle clogging, or both? If both, does the nozzle clog only AFTER the blob forms on the nozzle? Also, which bed are you using? |
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[#2]
First off, do calibrations on Z offset with PLA. Doing it with PETG is not for a newbie.
PETG is extremely sticky. It loves to stick to the nozzle, heat block, basically anything that it shouldn't be sticking to. Silicone socks are great for keeping the nozzle clean on the outside. I also like Slice Engineering nozzles as they have a special coating that prevents this phenomenon. Make sure your first layer calibration is perfect. Then try PETG. I will warn you Overture PETG doesn't print great. |
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[#3]
I print PETG solely. Don't see the blob much anymore. My Z height is way off the table. Table temp is 90C first layer, 80 remaining. 250 nozzle temp. Thick 0.3mm layers. Thinner layers don't work that well. You really need a lot of heat to get good bond with PETG and it should air drop onto the plate for the first layer.
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[#4]
ETA - I use powder coat PEI sheet. No glue. No cleaning. Room temp 70F and 40-70 humidity. Uncontrolled storage without dry out. Atomic brand PETG.
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[#5]
Quoted: I print PETG solely. Don't see the blob much anymore. My Z height is way off the table. Table temp is 90C first layer, 80 remaining. 250 nozzle temp. Thick 0.3mm layers. Thinner layers don't work that well. You really need a lot of heat to get good bond with PETG and it should air drop onto the plate for the first layer. View Quote Pretty much same setting here for PETG. |
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[#6]
I tried PETG. But with a max nozzle temp of 230 on my old printer, clogs were common.
You should consider PLA+...it's a whole new ball game. Works great for me. |
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[#7]
Quoted: Did you buy the printer assembled or as a kit? ETA: And to clarify, is the filament just not sticking to the bed, or is the nozzle clogging, or both? If both, does the nozzle clog only AFTER the blob forms on the nozzle? Also, which bed are you using? View Quote Assembled. It prints everything great with Overture PLA+. My very first print was 47hrs and came out perfect. Both, It’s not sticking to the plate which is a Prusa satan sheet and It’s clogging after the blob forms on the nozzle. Well, I say clog. That might not be the correct terminology. I don’t know think the filament actually stops flowing because I shut it down as it pretty much happens within seconds. |
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[#8]
Quoted: First off, do calibrations on Z offset with PLA. Doing it with PETG is not for a newbie. PETG is extremely sticky. It loves to stick to the nozzle, heat block, basically anything that it shouldn't be sticking to. Silicone socks are great for keeping the nozzle clean on the outside. I also like Slice Engineering nozzles as they have a special coating that prevents this phenomenon. Make sure your first layer calibration is perfect. Then try PETG. I will warn you Overture PETG doesn't print great. View Quote I now have a silicone sock but haven’t tried petg again. First layer caliber is good, nice and smooth with PLA+. Well that sucks about Overture PETG because I bought 12 rolls. Their PLA+ has been so great for me I jumped in head first with their PETG! |
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[#9]
Quoted: I print PETG solely. Don't see the blob much anymore. My Z height is way off the table. Table temp is 90C first layer, 80 remaining. 250 nozzle temp. Thick 0.3mm layers. Thinner layers don't work that well. You really need a lot of heat to get good bond with PETG and it should air drop onto the plate for the first layer. View Quote Thanks for the info!! |
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[#10]
Quoted: I tried PETG. But with a max nozzle temp of 230 on my old printer, clogs were common. You should consider PLA+...it's a whole new ball game. Works great for me. View Quote I am currently using Overture PLA+ now. I’ve used about 4 rolls or so in about 2 weeks. I am looking for something that can withstand a higher temperature. |
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[#11]
Quoted: I now have a silicone sock but haven’t tried petg again. First layer caliber is good, nice and smooth with PLA+. Well that sucks about Overture PETG because I bought 12 rolls. Their PLA+ has been so great for me I jumped in head first with their PETG! View Quote Well I feel like I should clarify. Their white and black are acceptable. Not great but not garbage. Their colors though I've had zero luck with. My favorite PETG is Prusament and Atomic. Favorite PLA is Prusament and 3DFuel. |
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[#12]
Wash the plate with hot water and Dawn, rinse well. Never touch the surface with your hands. Increase bed temp to 90. Slow down the first layer speed to 10mm/s. I like first layer of petg at 250c. With these settings, I have great luck.
The Dawn wash tends to fix new sheets. |
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[#13]
Quoted: Wash the plate with hot water and Dawn, rinse well. Never touch the surface with your hands. Increase bed temp to 90. Slow down the first layer speed to 10mm/s. I like first layer of petg at 250c. With these settings, I have great luck. The Dawn wash tends to fix new sheets. View Quote I will change my settings and try it again. What filament do you use? |
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[#14]
Quoted: Wash the plate with hot water and Dawn, rinse well. Never touch the surface with your hands. Increase bed temp to 90. Slow down the first layer speed to 10mm/s. I like first layer of petg at 250c. With these settings, I have great luck. The Dawn wash tends to fix new sheets. View Quote This is good. Slowing down on first layer helps. |
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[#15]
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[#16]
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[#17]
How much higher does the nozzle need to be than when printing PLA?
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[#18]
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[#19]
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[#20]
Do you preheat and let it sit at that temp for about 5-10min until filament stops coming out?
I had issues when I would just click print. When it came up to temp the filament would ooze out a bit and when it does the calibration it would deposit all that crap around the nozzle. The solution is to let it preheat for a bit until there is no more filament oozing out. Then print. |
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[#21]
Good point on the nozzle build up from oozing filament. I always preheat before printing and remove any filament protruding from nozzle even when using pla.
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[#22]
What nozzle do you guys use? Prefer a coated or “special” nozzle over brass?
I got the micro swiss plated nozzle due to claims that PETG wouldn’t stick. |
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[#23]
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[#24]
Quoted: I personally have it the same, and I use the satin sheet. Others have it higher, so I guess ymmv. View Quote Quoted: I do not change the height. Satin sheet. View Quote I also do not change the height when printing PETG. The only thing I change is the profile in prusa slicer and I clean the bed with windex rather than IPA (what is clean with when printing pla). |
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[#25]
Quoted: Do you preheat and let it sit at that temp for about 5-10min until filament stops coming out? I had issues when I would just click print. When it came up to temp the filament would ooze out a bit and when it does the calibration it would deposit all that crap around the nozzle. The solution is to let it preheat for a bit until there is no more filament oozing out. Then print. View Quote There is a better way. Let it calibrate at a lower temp. I calibrate at 155 then do final print temp heat up. Zero ooze issues, even with PETG and a 0.6 nozzle. |
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[#26]
Quoted: What nozzle do you guys use? Prefer a coated or “special” nozzle over brass? I got the micro swiss plated nozzle due to claims tgat PETG wouldn’t stick. View Quote I prefer the E3D nozzle shape. The broader face of the nozzle gives me smoother top surfaces and also does a great job ironing. I prefer Slice Engineering nozzles. They are hardened and are anti stick. I've played with a bunch of nozzles but they seem to be the best I've tried. The ruby nozzles just sit now. |
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[#27]
I have an Ender 3v2 and pretty much all I print now is Ovature PETG because it's cheap and it prints well.
The only additions to my machine are a Microswiss all metal hot end, CR Touch, and hardened .4 mm nozzle. I still use the factory glass bed. Go through the usual calibration and leveling, including your e-steps/feed rate. I know Prusa machines are better than Enders, but my feed rate was way off when I started. My settings are below: Layer height: .2 Initial layer height: .3 Line width: .4 Printing temp (all): 253 Plate temp: 80 Plate initial temp: 85 Flow (all): 100% Speed 47mms Infill 47mms Wall 30mms Outer Wall 30mms Inner Wall 35mms Top/Bottom speed 23.5mms Travel speed 120mms Initial layer speed 10mms initial layer print speed 7.5mms initial layer travel speed 150mms Number of slower layers 2 Retraction distance 3mm Retraction speed 45mms Retraction minimum travel 1.5mm Enable Print Cooling: no Regular/Max fan speed threshold 10s Regular fan speed at height .7mm Regular fan speed at layer 3 minimum layer time 10 s minimum layer speed 10mms I discovered that the Ovature PETG really doesn't like a fan. I used to have terrible problems with stringing and building up big blobs on my nozzle. Once I turned off and kept off the fan, Ovature PETG printed far better. It's pretty much all I use now. If you want to go up on print speed you'll probably need to bump up the print temp to avoid binding. I've bumped up print speeds by as much as 50% during a print, but as the machine goes faster, the feeder will start to skip because the hot end can't keep up, so I have to bump the temp a little. If I want a perfect print, I'll go a little slower. If I'm in a hurry, I'll just make the adjustments on the fly mid print if things are going well. As for nozzle height, I set mine with a .2mm feeler gauge. I think the Z offset is set to something like .9. I just moved and haven't set the machine up, otherwise I'd turn it on and tell you for sure. Just start messing around with the Z until you get a clean first layer, then the settings above should take care of the rest. |
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[#28]
I will print PETG on my sidewinder at 235 degrees on the hotend and 70 on the bed. I usually print it on blue painters tape since the factory print surface is non removable textured glass.
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[#29]
Sorry to resurrect an older thread, but just wanted to say thanks to Rat_Patrol and -Obsessed-
Did my first print using Prusament PETG last night, following your advice from this thread, and it came out flawless. Up until then, had only ever printed PLA+, but really digging PETG. Thanks! |
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[#30]
Quoted: Sorry to resurrect an older thread, but just wanted to say thanks to Rat_Patrol and -Obsessed- Did my first print using Prusament PETG last night, following your advice from this thread, and it came out flawless. Up until then, had only ever printed PLA+, but really digging PETG. Thanks! View Quote Excellent! I love PETG. It's my favorite filament type! Now you should play with ASA. |
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[#31]
Quoted: Excellent! I love PETG. It's my favorite filament type! Now you should play with ASA. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Sorry to resurrect an older thread, but just wanted to say thanks to Rat_Patrol and -Obsessed- Did my first print using Prusament PETG last night, following your advice from this thread, and it came out flawless. Up until then, had only ever printed PLA+, but really digging PETG. Thanks! Excellent! I love PETG. It's my favorite filament type! Now you should play with ASA. Nah, he needs to try CF petg |
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[#32]
Speaking of that...
I've been printing petg and pla for a while with my prusa. Been thinking about dabbling in CF petg or other 'high strength' filaments. What are yall using for a high temp nozzle? What upgrades would I need to make to my mk3s+? |
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[#33]
Quoted: Speaking of that... I've been printing petg and pla for a while with my prusa. Been thinking about dabbling in CF petg or other 'high strength' filaments. What are yall using for a high temp nozzle? What upgrades would I need to make to my mk3s+? View Quote No upgrades needed for high temp. The MK3S+ handles around 300C out of the box. CF PETG is best printed at 265 with no fan. I've printed some other stuff up to 290 without issue, but haven't needed to go hotter than that. But CF IS abrasive, so you will need a hardened nozzle. I like Slice Engineering Vanadium nozzles. RP likes E3D Nozzle X nozzles I believe. |
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[#34]
Quoted: No upgrades needed for high temp. The MK3S+ handles around 300C out of the box. CF PETG is best printed at 265 with no fan. I've printed some other stuff up to 290 without issue, but haven't needed to go hotter than that. But CF IS abrasive, so you will a hardened nozzle. I like Slice Engineering Vanadium nozzles. RP likes E3D Nozzle X nozzles I believe. View Quote Well shit, I guess I can just go home |
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[#35]
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[#36]
Quoted: Never. We all could benefit from your expertise. I'm a humble amateur next to you. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Well shit, I guess I can just go home Never. We all could benefit from your expertise. I'm a humble amateur next to you. |
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[#37]
Quoted: No upgrades needed for high temp. The MK3S+ handles around 300C out of the box. CF PETG is best printed at 265 with no fan. I've printed some other stuff up to 290 without issue, but haven't needed to go hotter than that. But CF IS abrasive, so you will need a hardened nozzle. I like Slice Engineering Vanadium nozzles. RP likes E3D Nozzle X nozzles I believe. View Quote @Rat_Patrol Looks like they have replaced the Nozzle X. Have you tried the new ones? I've been using E3D Nozzles exclusively so far. Do yall have a preferred CF petg brand? I've been experimenting with lowers and have been wanting to try CF for a while now. |
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[#38]
Quoted: @Rat_Patrol Looks like they have replaced the Nozzle X. Have you tried the new ones? I've been using E3D Nozzles exclusively so far. Do yall have a preferred CF petg brand? I've been experimenting with lowers and have been wanting to try CF for a while now. View Quote You mean the Revo nozzles? They are not really replacing the v6 nozzle X, it is for their new Revo ecosystem (entirely different hotend). I have not tried it yet. My go to is atomic CF Petg. |
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[#39]
Quoted: @Rat_Patrol Looks like they have replaced the Nozzle X. Have you tried the new ones? I've been using E3D Nozzles exclusively so far. Do yall have a preferred CF petg brand? I've been experimenting with lowers and have been wanting to try CF for a while now. View Quote Atomic is my go to for CF PETG as well. I'd also not hesitate to get any filament from Filamentum or 3DXTech. Both specialize in exotic filaments. I've also had great success with Polymaker filament. I've not tried their CF products but I go through about 30kg of their stuff a month and am very, very happy with it. |
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[#40]
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[#41]
Quoted: @Rat_Patrol I believe I have the same setup as you now. Prusa mk3s+ with the Nozzle X and the CF PETG from atomic. Was wondering if you mind sharing your print temp/profile in the prusa slicer? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Well shit, I guess I can just go home @Rat_Patrol I believe I have the same setup as you now. Prusa mk3s+ with the Nozzle X and the CF PETG from atomic. Was wondering if you mind sharing your print temp/profile in the prusa slicer? Make sure you run a PID tune, and when I get a minute later I'll grab my profiles. ETA: but the basics are 265 nozzle, no cooling fan, 90 bed. |
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[#42]
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[#43]
Oh, one more thing. I've found that the CF PETG absorbs moisture, unlike regular PETG. Not as bad as nylon, but just something to be aware of, and store sealed with moisture absorber.
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