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Posted: 10/2/2022 7:23:22 PM EDT
I have a Prusa MK3s+. New with only about 10 days of printing on the counter.

I have been trying to print with overture red petg. It clogs and start the blob of death around the nozzle and heat block pretty much immediately. Like before the first layer calibration if completed.

I’ve tried prusament petg and generic petg settings in Prusa slicer.

I have tried .4 stock brass nozzle and .4 Micro-Swiss Plated Brass Wear Resistant Nozzle.

The filament was taken out of brand new vacuum sealed pack and dried for over 24 hrs before even attempting to use.

I am new to 3d printing. I tried by using “factory” slicer presets, dry filament, and the z height higher than my PLA height.

230/240
85/90

240/250
85/90




Any help would be appreciated.
Link Posted: 10/2/2022 7:50:13 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 10/2/2022 8:27:25 PM EDT
[#2]
First off, do calibrations on Z offset with PLA. Doing it with PETG is not for a newbie.

PETG is extremely sticky. It loves to stick to the nozzle, heat block, basically anything that it shouldn't be sticking to. Silicone socks are great for keeping the nozzle clean on the outside. I also like Slice Engineering nozzles as they have a special coating that prevents this phenomenon.

Make sure your first layer calibration is perfect.

Then try PETG. I will warn you Overture PETG doesn't print great.
Link Posted: 10/2/2022 8:49:44 PM EDT
[#3]
I print PETG solely. Don't see the blob much anymore.  My Z height is way off the table. Table temp is 90C first layer, 80 remaining. 250 nozzle temp. Thick 0.3mm layers. Thinner layers don't work that well. You really need a lot of heat to get good bond with PETG and it should air drop onto the plate for the first layer.
Link Posted: 10/2/2022 8:52:16 PM EDT
[#4]
ETA - I use powder coat PEI sheet. No glue. No cleaning. Room temp 70F and 40-70 humidity. Uncontrolled storage without dry out.  Atomic brand PETG.
Link Posted: 10/2/2022 8:54:02 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I print PETG solely. Don't see the blob much anymore.  My Z height is way off the table. Table temp is 90C first layer, 80 remaining. 250 nozzle temp. Thick 0.3mm layers. Thinner layers don't work that well. You really need a lot of heat to get good bond with PETG and it should air drop onto the plate for the first layer.
View Quote


Pretty much same setting here for PETG.
Link Posted: 10/2/2022 9:53:45 PM EDT
[#6]
I tried PETG. But with a max nozzle temp of 230 on my old printer, clogs were common.

You should consider PLA+...it's a whole new ball game. Works great for me.
Link Posted: 10/2/2022 10:05:42 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Did you buy the printer assembled or as a kit?


ETA: And to clarify, is the filament just not sticking to the bed, or is the nozzle clogging, or both? If both, does the nozzle clog only AFTER the blob forms on the nozzle? Also, which bed are you using?
View Quote


Assembled. It prints everything great with Overture PLA+. My very first print was 47hrs and came out perfect.

Both, It’s not sticking to the plate which is a Prusa satan sheet and It’s clogging after the blob forms on the nozzle.

Well, I say clog. That might not be the correct terminology. I don’t know think the filament actually stops flowing because I shut it down as it pretty much happens within seconds.
Link Posted: 10/2/2022 10:11:36 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
First off, do calibrations on Z offset with PLA. Doing it with PETG is not for a newbie.

PETG is extremely sticky. It loves to stick to the nozzle, heat block, basically anything that it shouldn't be sticking to. Silicone socks are great for keeping the nozzle clean on the outside. I also like Slice Engineering nozzles as they have a special coating that prevents this phenomenon.

Make sure your first layer calibration is perfect.

Then try PETG. I will warn you Overture PETG doesn't print great.
View Quote


I now have a silicone sock but haven’t tried petg again.

First layer caliber is good, nice and smooth with PLA+.

Well that sucks about Overture PETG because I bought 12 rolls. Their PLA+ has been so great for me I jumped in head first with their PETG!
Link Posted: 10/2/2022 10:14:33 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I print PETG solely. Don't see the blob much anymore.  My Z height is way off the table. Table temp is 90C first layer, 80 remaining. 250 nozzle temp. Thick 0.3mm layers. Thinner layers don't work that well. You really need a lot of heat to get good bond with PETG and it should air drop onto the plate for the first layer.
View Quote



Thanks for the info!!
Link Posted: 10/2/2022 10:16:21 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I tried PETG. But with a max nozzle temp of 230 on my old printer, clogs were common.

You should consider PLA+...it's a whole new ball game. Works great for me.
View Quote


I am currently using Overture PLA+ now. I’ve used about 4 rolls or so in about 2 weeks.

I am looking for something that can withstand a higher temperature.
Link Posted: 10/2/2022 11:02:06 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I now have a silicone sock but haven’t tried petg again.

First layer caliber is good, nice and smooth with PLA+.

Well that sucks about Overture PETG because I bought 12 rolls. Their PLA+ has been so great for me I jumped in head first with their PETG!
View Quote


Well I feel like I should clarify. Their white and black are acceptable. Not great but not garbage. Their colors though I've had zero luck with.

My favorite PETG is Prusament and Atomic.

Favorite PLA is Prusament and 3DFuel.
Link Posted: 10/2/2022 11:26:50 PM EDT
[#12]
Link Posted: 10/3/2022 12:01:23 AM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Wash the plate with hot water and Dawn, rinse well. Never touch the surface with your hands. Increase bed temp to 90. Slow down the first layer speed to 10mm/s. I like first layer of petg at 250c. With these settings, I have great luck.

The Dawn wash tends to fix new sheets.  
View Quote


I will change my settings and try it again.

What filament do you use?
Link Posted: 10/3/2022 1:32:11 AM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Wash the plate with hot water and Dawn, rinse well. Never touch the surface with your hands. Increase bed temp to 90. Slow down the first layer speed to 10mm/s. I like first layer of petg at 250c. With these settings, I have great luck.

The Dawn wash tends to fix new sheets.  
View Quote


This is good. Slowing down on first layer helps.
Link Posted: 10/3/2022 2:06:42 AM EDT
[#15]
Link Posted: 10/3/2022 9:36:23 AM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


This is good. Slowing down on first layer helps.
View Quote

First layer is set to 10.
Link Posted: 10/4/2022 12:15:23 AM EDT
[#17]
How much higher does the nozzle need to be than when printing PLA?
Link Posted: 10/4/2022 1:15:23 AM EDT
[#18]
Link Posted: 10/4/2022 7:34:50 AM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
How much higher does the nozzle need to be than when printing PLA?
View Quote


I do not change the height.

Satin sheet.
Link Posted: 10/4/2022 7:51:30 AM EDT
[#20]
Do you preheat and let it sit at that temp for about 5-10min until filament stops coming out?

I had issues when I would just click print. When it came up to temp the filament would ooze out a bit and when it does the calibration it would deposit all that crap around the nozzle.

The solution is to let it preheat for a bit until there is no more filament oozing out. Then print.
Link Posted: 10/4/2022 8:35:43 AM EDT
[#21]
Good point on the nozzle build up from oozing filament. I always preheat before printing and remove any filament protruding from nozzle even when using pla.
Link Posted: 10/4/2022 9:04:16 AM EDT
[#22]
What nozzle do you guys use? Prefer a coated or “special” nozzle over brass?

I got the micro swiss plated nozzle due to claims that PETG wouldn’t stick.
Link Posted: 10/4/2022 9:19:11 AM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What nozzle do you guys use? Prefer a coated or “special” nozzle over brass?

I got the micro swiss plated nozzle due to claims tgat PETG wouldn’t stick.
View Quote


I just use the regular old brass prusa 0.4 or 0.6 nozzles and they have worked fine for me.
Link Posted: 10/4/2022 9:20:34 AM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:

I personally have it the same, and I use the satin sheet. Others have it higher, so I guess ymmv.
View Quote

Quoted:


I do not change the height.

Satin sheet.
View Quote


I also do not change the height when printing PETG.

The only thing I change is the profile in prusa slicer and I clean the bed with windex rather than IPA (what is clean with when printing pla).
Link Posted: 10/4/2022 9:38:44 AM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Do you preheat and let it sit at that temp for about 5-10min until filament stops coming out?

I had issues when I would just click print. When it came up to temp the filament would ooze out a bit and when it does the calibration it would deposit all that crap around the nozzle.

The solution is to let it preheat for a bit until there is no more filament oozing out. Then print.
View Quote


There is a better way. Let it calibrate at a lower temp.

I calibrate at 155 then do final print temp heat up.

Zero ooze issues, even with PETG and a 0.6 nozzle.
Link Posted: 10/4/2022 9:41:34 AM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What nozzle do you guys use? Prefer a coated or “special” nozzle over brass?

I got the micro swiss plated nozzle due to claims tgat PETG wouldn’t stick.
View Quote


I prefer the E3D nozzle shape. The broader face of the nozzle gives me smoother top surfaces and also does a great job ironing.

I prefer Slice Engineering nozzles. They are hardened and are anti stick. I've played with a bunch of nozzles but they seem to be the best I've tried.

The ruby nozzles just sit now.
Link Posted: 10/4/2022 10:13:13 PM EDT
[#27]
I have an Ender 3v2 and pretty much all I print now is Ovature PETG because it's cheap and it prints well.

The only additions to my machine are a Microswiss all metal hot end, CR Touch, and hardened .4 mm nozzle. I still use the factory glass bed.

Go through the usual calibration and leveling, including your e-steps/feed rate. I know Prusa machines are better than Enders, but my feed rate was way off when I started.

My settings are below:

Layer height: .2
Initial layer height: .3
Line width: .4
Printing temp (all): 253
Plate temp: 80
Plate initial temp: 85
Flow (all): 100%
Speed 47mms
Infill 47mms
Wall 30mms
Outer Wall 30mms
Inner Wall 35mms
Top/Bottom speed 23.5mms
Travel speed 120mms
Initial layer speed 10mms
initial layer print speed 7.5mms
initial layer travel speed 150mms
Number of slower layers 2
Retraction distance 3mm
Retraction speed 45mms
Retraction minimum travel 1.5mm
Enable Print Cooling: no
Regular/Max fan speed threshold 10s
Regular fan speed at height .7mm
Regular fan speed at layer 3
minimum layer time 10 s
minimum layer speed 10mms

I discovered that the Ovature PETG really doesn't like a fan. I used to have terrible problems with stringing and building up big blobs on my nozzle. Once I turned off and kept off the fan, Ovature PETG printed far better. It's pretty much all I use now.

If you want to go up on print speed you'll probably need to bump up the print temp to avoid binding. I've bumped up print speeds by as much as 50% during a print, but as the machine goes faster, the feeder will start to skip because the hot end can't keep up, so I have to bump the temp a little. If I want a perfect print, I'll go a little slower. If I'm in a hurry, I'll just make the adjustments on the fly mid print if things are going well.

As for nozzle height, I set mine with a .2mm feeler gauge. I think the Z offset is set to something like .9. I just moved and haven't set the machine up, otherwise I'd turn it on and tell you for sure.

Just start messing around with the Z until you get a clean first layer, then the settings above should take care of the rest.
Link Posted: 10/5/2022 1:13:19 AM EDT
[#28]
I will print PETG on my sidewinder at 235 degrees on the hotend and 70 on the bed. I usually print it on blue painters tape since the factory print surface is non removable textured glass.
Link Posted: 11/20/2022 6:51:05 PM EDT
[#29]
Sorry to resurrect an older thread, but just wanted to say thanks to Rat_Patrol and -Obsessed-

Did my first print using Prusament PETG last night, following your advice from this thread, and it came out flawless. Up until then, had only ever printed PLA+, but really digging PETG.

Thanks!
Link Posted: 11/20/2022 7:08:32 PM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Sorry to resurrect an older thread, but just wanted to say thanks to Rat_Patrol and -Obsessed-

Did my first print using Prusament PETG last night, following your advice from this thread, and it came out flawless. Up until then, had only ever printed PLA+, but really digging PETG.

Thanks!
View Quote


Excellent!

I love PETG. It's my favorite filament type!

Now you should play with ASA.
Link Posted: 11/20/2022 8:17:02 PM EDT
[#31]
Link Posted: 11/20/2022 8:20:25 PM EDT
[#32]
Speaking of that...

I've been printing petg and pla for a while with my prusa.

Been thinking about dabbling in CF petg or other 'high strength' filaments.

What are yall using for a high temp nozzle? What upgrades would I need to make to my mk3s+?
Link Posted: 11/20/2022 8:41:46 PM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Speaking of that...

I've been printing petg and pla for a while with my prusa.

Been thinking about dabbling in CF petg or other 'high strength' filaments.

What are yall using for a high temp nozzle? What upgrades would I need to make to my mk3s+?
View Quote


No upgrades needed for high temp. The MK3S+ handles around 300C out of the box. CF PETG is best printed at 265 with no fan. I've printed some other stuff up to 290 without issue, but haven't needed to go hotter than that.

But CF IS abrasive, so you will need a hardened nozzle. I like Slice Engineering Vanadium nozzles. RP likes E3D Nozzle X nozzles I believe.
Link Posted: 11/20/2022 9:03:53 PM EDT
[#34]
Link Posted: 11/20/2022 9:16:49 PM EDT
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Well shit, I guess I can just go home
View Quote


Never. We all could benefit from your expertise. I'm a humble amateur next to you.
Link Posted: 11/20/2022 9:20:48 PM EDT
[#36]
Link Posted: 11/20/2022 10:18:40 PM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


No upgrades needed for high temp. The MK3S+ handles around 300C out of the box. CF PETG is best printed at 265 with no fan. I've printed some other stuff up to 290 without issue, but haven't needed to go hotter than that.

But CF IS abrasive, so you will need a hardened nozzle. I like Slice Engineering Vanadium nozzles. RP likes E3D Nozzle X nozzles I believe.
View Quote


@Rat_Patrol

Looks like they have replaced the Nozzle X. Have you tried the new ones?

I've been using E3D Nozzles exclusively so far.


Do yall have a preferred CF petg brand? I've been experimenting with lowers and have been wanting to try CF for a while now.
Link Posted: 11/20/2022 10:23:25 PM EDT
[#38]
Link Posted: 11/20/2022 10:26:02 PM EDT
[#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


@Rat_Patrol

Looks like they have replaced the Nozzle X. Have you tried the new ones?

I've been using E3D Nozzles exclusively so far.


Do yall have a preferred CF petg brand? I've been experimenting with lowers and have been wanting to try CF for a while now.
View Quote


Atomic is my go to for CF PETG as well.

I'd also not hesitate to get any filament from Filamentum or 3DXTech. Both specialize in exotic filaments.

I've also had great success with Polymaker filament. I've not tried their CF products but I go through about 30kg of their stuff a month and am very, very happy with it.
Link Posted: 12/20/2022 5:21:22 PM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Well shit, I guess I can just go home
View Quote


@Rat_Patrol

I believe I have the same setup as you now. Prusa mk3s+ with the Nozzle X and the CF PETG from atomic.

Was wondering if you mind sharing your print temp/profile in the prusa slicer?
Link Posted: 12/20/2022 7:45:31 PM EDT
[#41]
Link Posted: 12/20/2022 10:23:00 PM EDT
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Make sure you run a PID tune, and when I get a minute later I'll grab my profiles.

ETA: but the basics are 265 nozzle, no cooling fan, 90 bed.
View Quote


Sweet. Thanks.

I haven't ever done a PID tune so I'll give it a shot.
Link Posted: 12/20/2022 10:33:48 PM EDT
[#43]
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