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Posted: 2/8/2021 4:33:07 PM EDT
[#1]
Curious as to why you want metal?
Just seems like it would take longer and more expensive to install vs wood with little pros |
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Posted: 2/8/2021 4:47:42 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Curious as to why you want metal? Just seems like it would take longer and more expensive to install vs wood with little pros Everything I've read is exactly the opposite of that and wood cost is through the roof at the moment. Plus I'm not a fan of putting wood below grade if at all possible. |
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Posted: 2/8/2021 5:22:30 PM EDT
[#3]
DIY home renovision on YT. He goes over it in detail in a couple of different videos.
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Posted: 2/8/2021 10:37:27 PM EDT
[#4]
If you know how to frame with wood it's the same . The studs have knockouts in them for electric wires . You have to use a Bottom / Top track . We use both steel and wood in our buildings and it's about a wash as far as speed .
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Posted: 2/8/2021 10:44:53 PM EDT
[#5]
If you are just finishing a basement and don't need strutural Look for non-structural studs and track commonly called Drywall Studs and Track. Use Self-Tapping fasteners for metal to metal, find specific fasteners for wood to metal. Wear Gloves and watch the sharp edges of the stud/track, some metal framing has softened edges. Good luck
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Posted: 2/8/2021 10:59:35 PM EDT
[#6]
IM me an email address and I'll send some pictures of a basement that I finished recently with metal studs.
It's pretty much a wash going metal as opposed to traditional lumber. Cost and labor is negligible, they both rot or rust in about the same time if you have moisture issues. |
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Posted: 2/8/2021 11:07:10 PM EDT
[#7]
As far as door ways, a typical rough opening in height is 82-5/8" for an interior split jamb door. It doesn't change, you are just packing out with studs on the header and jamb with wood for a nailer.
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Posted: 2/8/2021 11:09:06 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Everything I've read is exactly the opposite of that and wood cost is through the roof at the moment. Plus I'm not a fan of putting wood below grade if at all possible. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Curious as to why you want metal? Just seems like it would take longer and more expensive to install vs wood with little pros Everything I've read is exactly the opposite of that and wood cost is through the roof at the moment. Plus I'm not a fan of putting wood below grade if at all possible. I did a partial basement with metal studs a couple of years ago. I wanted an industrial look, put galvanized corrugated steel on the show side, left the other side visible. I liked the look but in my novice opinion it was a pain to work with, not sure if i would use it again. When I finish the rest of the basement I will be using wood. Just my 0.02 |
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Posted: 2/8/2021 11:23:37 PM EDT
[#9]
What's the plumbing and electrical questions about op?
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Posted: 2/9/2021 8:08:27 AM EDT
[#10]
I worked in commercial construction for 8 years and I've used a lot of metal track and stud.
It's been almost 35 years since I did it, but If I remember correctly, the sizes are: 1 5/8", 2 1/2", and 3 5/8". I've used 3 5/8" track with wooden studs for speed and for getting very straight walls. If you use metal studs, you should brace them against the outside wall by screwing a piece of plywood or OSB to the stud and the wall. I would use pieces 1 foot long and wide enough to reach from the stud to the wall. This will stiffen the wall. If you run electrical and/or plumbing, you'll need the bushings that fit in the stud cut-outs to prevent chafing. 1" screws to hang the sheetrock, and self-tappers to fasten the studs to the track. Don't forget to make sure that the stud is square in the track, by putting a square on it before you screw it. For those walls that you can get to both sides, screw both sides of the stud to the track to remove the flex and make it easier to screw the sheetrock. |
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Posted: 2/9/2021 11:12:36 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What's the plumbing and electrical questions about op? Mainly the grommets. Mounting boxes just need 2x4 backers I’m assuming. |
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Posted: 2/9/2021 11:12:58 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I worked in commercial construction for 8 years and I've used a lot of metal track and stud. It's been almost 35 years since I did it, but If I remember correctly, the sizes are: 1 5/8", 2 1/2", and 3 5/8". I've used 3 5/8" track with wooden studs for speed and for getting very straight walls. If you use metal studs, you should brace them against the outside wall by screwing a piece of plywood or OSB to the stud and the wall. I would use pieces 1 foot long and wide enough to reach from the stud to the wall. This will stiffen the wall. If you run electrical and/or plumbing, you'll need the bushings that fit in the stud cut-outs to prevent chafing. 1" screws to hang the sheetrock, and self-tappers to fasten the studs to the track. Don't forget to make sure that the stud is square in the track, by putting a square on it before you screw it. For those walls that you can get to both sides, screw both sides of the stud to the track to remove the flex and make it easier to screw the sheetrock. Thanks. This is helpful. |
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Posted: 2/9/2021 11:13:35 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: IM me an email address and I'll send some pictures of a basement that I finished recently with metal studs. It's pretty much a wash going metal as opposed to traditional lumber. Cost and labor is negligible, they both rot or rust in about the same time if you have moisture issues. Done. Thanks. |
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Posted: 2/9/2021 11:15:29 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: DIY home renovision on YT. He goes over it in detail in a couple of different videos. Thanks. I’ll check it out. |
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Posted: 2/10/2021 12:36:36 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Curious as to why you want metal? Just seems like it would take longer and more expensive to install vs wood with little pros |
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Posted: 2/10/2021 7:51:58 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: metal stud is a lot faster then wood framing. A LOT! It sure is! A nice compromise I used a lot in homes, was to use track for the top and bottom, and wood studs. The top track was easily screwed into the joists or blocking by one man, and the bottom track could be shot down with pins just as quickly. You now have a very straight wall and wooden studs just slide into place and you can screw them off. I've used both metal and wood studs, and the wood studs and metal track give you a fast, straight, sturdy wall. |
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Posted: 2/10/2021 8:28:08 AM EDT
[#17]
There are boxes designed to screw to the stud, or brackets that span between the studs that you can attach electrical or plumbing to.
The previous comment about attaching back to the wall at mid height is correct, however I would use a piece of corner angle screwed to the stud and pinned to the wall. The only place you should need wood is at doors or windows, or blocking for cabinets, grab bars, door stops, etc. |
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Posted: 2/10/2021 8:31:04 AM EDT
[#18]
Find a metal stud / drywall supplier and get your stuff from there.
20 gauge equivalent is fine. Big box stores either carry 25 gauge or 25 gauge equivalent which is garbage. I’m a commercial GC and use 20ga eq on my jobs and you do not need self tapping fasteners for that thickness. When I did residential basements we waterproofed the walls with drylok, glued up 1” foam then framed with 2 1/2” studs. Interior walls 3 5/8 studs and wrap door jambs with a wood 2x4. |
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Posted: 2/10/2021 9:13:03 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Find a metal stud / drywall supplier and get your stuff from there. 20 gauge equivalent is fine. Big box stores either carry 25 gauge or 25 gauge equivalent which is garbage. I’m a commercial GC and use 20ga eq on my jobs and you do not need self tapping fasteners for that thickness. When I did residential basements we waterproofed the walls with drylok, glued up 1” foam then framed with 2 1/2” studs. Interior walls 3 5/8 studs and wrap door jambs with a wood 2x4. Thanks. My plan is 2" foam them metal studs. |
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Posted: 2/11/2021 9:47:56 PM EDT
[#20]
As Handydave said, buy from a metal stud/drywall supply, box store studs are horribly thin and a pain to work with. You also may have higher ceilings that require 54" sheetrock.
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Posted: 2/11/2021 11:22:44 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: As Handydave said, buy from a metal stud/drywall supply, box store studs are horribly thin and a pain to work with. You also may have higher ceilings that require 54" sheetrock. Ceilings are a hair under 8'. 7'10" ish. |
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Posted: 2/19/2021 11:28:35 AM EDT
[#22]
Quoted: I’m finishing my basement and would like to go with metal studs. Are there any YouTube videos that can get me headed in the right direction as far as doorways, plumbing, electrical? I can handle wood but I have never messed with metal. |
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Posted: 2/22/2021 7:22:00 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Curious as to why you want metal? Just seems like it would take longer and more expensive to install vs wood with little pros It’s fast as hell, all you need is a pair of tin snips, a sharpie, tape measure, screw gun and a pair of vise grip clamps or spring clamps. |
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Posted: 2/23/2021 2:44:12 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It’s fast as hell, all you need is a pair of tin snips, a sharpie, tape measure, screw gun and a pair of vise grip clamps or spring clamps. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Curious as to why you want metal? Just seems like it would take longer and more expensive to install vs wood with little pros It’s fast as hell, all you need is a pair of tin snips, a sharpie, tape measure, screw gun and a pair of vise grip clamps or spring clamps. We used crimps instead of screws to hold the studs together. SCIF walls are a special kind of nightmare. |
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Posted: 2/25/2021 9:21:51 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks. I'll check it out. embed isn't working, so here's the link popped up in my YT feed today. This is one of his vids on it. |
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Posted: 2/26/2021 11:21:48 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It’s fast as hell, all you need is a pair of tin snips, a sharpie, tape measure, screw gun and a pair of vise grip clamps or spring clamps. Band aids, dont forget band aides, code requires that at least one freshly cut jagged stud must at some point puncture the skin of the installer... 
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Posted: 3/1/2021 3:55:59 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Band aids, dont forget band aides, code requires that at least one freshly cut jagged stud must at some point puncture the skin of the installer... Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: It’s fast as hell, all you need is a pair of tin snips, a sharpie, tape measure, screw gun and a pair of vise grip clamps or spring clamps. Band aids, dont forget band aides, code requires that at least one freshly cut jagged stud must at some point puncture the skin of the installer... And sheet metal cuts are a special kind of painful. The lubricant on the metal interferes with healing. |
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