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Posted: 8/1/2021 11:38:44 PM EDT
Any ideas? I can't find a 41/64 drill bit that's greater than 6" with a 1/2 shank. Any adaptors?
I need the longer bit to ream out a Mercury outboard tiller tube (steering shaft) that seized up and needs reaming. A 6" didn't get about 1 inch going into both ends.  " target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/PS1C9uW.jpg
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Posted: 8/1/2021 11:44:57 PM EDT
[#1]
Buy the correct reamer instead of using a drill bit. And use it on a 90° attachment on a Bridgeport.
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Posted: 8/1/2021 11:52:04 PM EDT
[#2]
Yeah reamer.
MSC Slap that bish in a cordless drill and let'r eat. It'll get you closer than a jobber length twist drill anyway. I mean we're not talking boring it and making bushings or anything. |
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Posted: 8/1/2021 11:53:15 PM EDT
[#3]
Shotgun bore brush on a drill has always worked for me on much older motors than that.
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Posted: 8/2/2021 12:09:07 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yeah reamer. MSC Slap that bish in a cordless drill and let'r eat. It'll get you closer than a jobber length twist drill anyway. I mean we're not talking boring it and making bushings or anything. 12" 41/64 reamer is .64" My drill is a .5 inch (1/2 max) collet. 99% of bits and reamers are all straight shaft at that size. Won't fit in a drill bit and I'm not removing that engine to turn sideways and use a Bridgeport on it. 
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Posted: 8/2/2021 12:10:08 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Shotgun bore brush on a drill has always worked for me on much older motors than that. tore a brass 12G brush to hell. Wish I had a pic 
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Posted: 8/2/2021 1:36:33 AM EDT
[#6]
Drill bits do not leave a true to size hole which is why reamers are made. You run the reamer through the hole turn the motor off then retract the reamer.
Link Guess you could put this in a lathe take off six hundred and twenty thousandths and have a half inch shaft. But someone probably makes a reamer with a half inch shaft in the size you need |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 7:16:36 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Drill bits do not leave a true to size hole which is why reamers are made. You run the reamer through the hole turn the motor off then retract the reamer. Link Guess you could put this in a lathe take off six hundred and twenty thousandths and have a half inch shaft. But someone probably makes a reamer with a half inch shaft in the size you need Yes, unfortunately, I don't have a lathe
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Posted: 8/2/2021 7:26:03 AM EDT
[#8]
5/8” drill bit with 1/2” shank is easy to find, then hand ream what’s left
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Posted: 8/2/2021 7:27:02 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 12" 41/64 reamer is .64" My drill is a .5 inch (1/2 max) collet. 99% of bits and reamers are all straight shaft at that size. Won't fit in a drill bit and I'm not removing that engine to turn sideways and use a Bridgeport on it. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Yeah reamer. MSC Slap that bish in a cordless drill and let'r eat. It'll get you closer than a jobber length twist drill anyway. I mean we're not talking boring it and making bushings or anything. 12" 41/64 reamer is .64" My drill is a .5 inch (1/2 max) collet. 99% of bits and reamers are all straight shaft at that size. Won't fit in a drill bit and I'm not removing that engine to turn sideways and use a Bridgeport on it. of course not, that would be ridiculous, turn the Bridgeport sideways |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 7:31:58 AM EDT
[#10]
Grind a slot in the back of the reamer and use a flat head screwdriver.
-arf.com 
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Posted: 8/2/2021 7:35:09 AM EDT
[#11]
Buy a hand reamer (it's got a square head) and use a tap handle.
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Posted: 8/2/2021 7:41:49 AM EDT
[#12]
MSC sells drills with half inch shanks. "Reduced shank" is the term you seek.
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Posted: 8/2/2021 7:49:07 AM EDT
[#13]
If you just want to use a drill bit use a Silver & Deming set.
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Posted: 8/2/2021 8:00:48 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you just want to use a drill bit use a Silver & Deming set. Did you read ops post? He said he can't find one LONGER than 6" with a half inch shank. He's already used an S&D drill. Hey Mouse....you could get a 41/64 on a taper shank. Not sure if at that size if it would be num 2 or 3 Morse taper, but in a pinch you could hand grind a straight diameter on the end to put in your drill chuck. Yeah, it wouldn't true or concentric but you've already run a drill from both ends, so your longer drill would be piloted well enough to continue on through the center section. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 8:05:47 AM EDT
[#15]
Portable line boring machine. Maybe a shop nearby has one?
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Posted: 8/2/2021 8:06:29 AM EDT
[#16]
You braise a 1/2" shank onto your current drill bit to make it longer.
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Posted: 8/2/2021 8:11:28 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You braise a 1/2" shank onto your current drill bit to make it longer. That's what I'd do given the situation and limitations. Brazing is often overlooked. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 8:14:36 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Shotgun bore brush on a drill has always worked for me on much older motors than that. Bingo. Every two years, sure as the sun rising in the east. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 8:20:25 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You braise a 1/2" shank onto your current drill bit to make it longer. I like braised shanks! What time is dinner? 
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Posted: 8/2/2021 8:24:02 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I like braised shanks! What time is dinner? Well maybe braze it instead. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 8:30:34 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 12" 41/64 reamer is .64" My drill is a .5 inch (1/2 max) collet. 99% of bits and reamers are all straight shaft at that size. Won't fit in a drill bit and I'm not removing that engine to turn sideways and use a Bridgeport on it. You're still screwed. Ball hone on a stick it is. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 8:37:41 AM EDT
[#22]
You're going about this all wrong.
The correct answer is "Honey, I hate to do it, but I'm really going to have to buy a new drill."  
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Posted: 8/2/2021 9:00:38 AM EDT
[#23]
Find a guy with a surface grinder and you can chuck the reamer in a rotary fixture in a collet and grind the shaft down. Bring beer.
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Posted: 8/2/2021 9:09:16 AM EDT
[#24]
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Posted: 8/2/2021 9:25:50 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryThere *IS* an app for that You didn't say but that sure looks like McMaster-Carr. (and I notice it's in the URL as well) McMaster-Carr is the answer to most of life's questions. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 9:39:44 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: There *IS* an app for that You didn't say but that sure looks like McMaster-Carr. (and I notice it's in the URL as well) McMaster-Carr is the answer to most of life's questions. Also, when ordering those types of drills from them in the past the brand has been Precision Twist, so that's a plus. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 9:44:54 AM EDT
[#27]
Seems like an opportunity to justify the purchase of a large horizontal boring mill for the shop.
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Posted: 8/2/2021 10:09:28 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Seems like an opportunity to justify the purchase of a large horizontal boring mill for the shop. 
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Posted: 8/2/2021 10:11:30 AM EDT
[#29]
Try a brake cylinder hone
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Posted: 8/2/2021 10:12:22 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: User names checks out. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Seems like an opportunity to justify the purchase of a large horizontal boring mill for the shop. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 10:13:34 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Try a brake cylinder hone Or the McMaster drills. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 10:35:29 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: User names checks out.
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Posted: 8/2/2021 10:40:55 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: There *IS* an app for that You didn't say but that sure looks like McMaster-Carr. (and I notice it's in the URL as well) McMaster-Carr is the answer to most of life's questions. Amazing how many times that's true. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 10:45:57 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Funny I just sent them an RFQ for a KBT-13A. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: User names checks out. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 10:48:42 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Guy on PM just picked up a super clean, very tight K&T Autometric Model B. I'm wildly jealous. It's either old timers resurrecting old iron, which makes me jealous (mostly of having that much time) or dorks tool box racing to chase the last nano meter out of theoretical parts on machines they don't own using software they are shilling. And everyone is too grumpy to last in GD for more than a day.  Fun distraction once in a while but I get my fill of actual machining and engineering problems most days. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 10:49:27 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ugh, only a 44,000lb table capacity?  |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 10:56:40 AM EDT
[#37]
Straight flute reamer, weld hex nut on shank, run with impact wrench or by hand.
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Posted: 8/2/2021 11:02:20 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Straight flute reamer, weld hex nut on shank, run with impact wrench or by hand. You monster. My tooling just started crying. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 11:15:04 AM EDT
[#39]
Let me check and see what I have...
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Posted: 8/2/2021 11:19:15 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You monster. My tooling just started crying. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Straight flute reamer, weld hex nut on shank, run with impact wrench or by hand. You monster. My tooling just started crying. Well that tap was of course 2 stage, so you were turning a lot of god damn tap by time you were 6" in. I cranked on that for a while at the end of my shift, and the other toolmaker, being in a rush, asked one of the 2nd shift maintenance guys to finish tapping it that night. This guy made about 3 cranks by hand and decided to find a socket that would fit the tap drive square and beat it through the rest of the way with an impact wrench. I don't know how long the tap lasted but of course he broke it off. Being half assed, we had no way to feasibly remove the 8" plus of buried tap. So we had to buy another big block of bronze, another tap, and do it all over again. Think of all the money we saved 
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Posted: 8/2/2021 11:53:40 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I once worked in a captive shop that would burn a dollar to save a dime, so just about everything we did was half-assed. We were rebuilding a machine that required a new bronze leadscrew nut with a big Acme thread, the block was 10-12" long and required a threaded hole all the way through. Being half assed, the decision on how to produce this was, I would bore the hole on a lathe in a 4 jaw, then we'd buy a hand tap, clamp that fucker to the Bridgeport table, rig up some kind of guide to try and keep it straight and hand tap the entire thing. Well that tap was of course 2 stage, so you were turning a lot of god damn tap by time you were 6" in. I cranked on that for a while at the end of my shift, and the other toolmaker, being in a rush, asked one of the 2nd shift maintenance guys to finish tapping it that night. This guy made about 3 cranks by hand and decided to find a socket that would fit the tap drive square and beat it through the rest of the way with an impact wrench. I don't know how long the tap lasted but of course he broke it off. Being half assed, we had no way to feasibly remove the 8" plus of buried tap. So we had to buy another big block of bronze, another tap, and do it all over again. Think of all the money we saved Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Straight flute reamer, weld hex nut on shank, run with impact wrench or by hand. You monster. My tooling just started crying. Well that tap was of course 2 stage, so you were turning a lot of god damn tap by time you were 6" in. I cranked on that for a while at the end of my shift, and the other toolmaker, being in a rush, asked one of the 2nd shift maintenance guys to finish tapping it that night. This guy made about 3 cranks by hand and decided to find a socket that would fit the tap drive square and beat it through the rest of the way with an impact wrench. I don't know how long the tap lasted but of course he broke it off. Being half assed, we had no way to feasibly remove the 8" plus of buried tap. So we had to buy another big block of bronze, another tap, and do it all over again. Think of all the money we saved Yeah - that sounds like shops I've worked at back in the day for sure! |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 1:58:34 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I once worked in a captive shop that would burn a dollar to save a dime, so just about everything we did was half-assed. We were rebuilding a machine that required a new bronze leadscrew nut with a big Acme thread, the block was 10-12" long and required a threaded hole all the way through. Being half assed, the decision on how to produce this was, I would bore the hole on a lathe in a 4 jaw, then we'd buy a hand tap, clamp that fucker to the Bridgeport table, rig up some kind of guide to try and keep it straight and hand tap the entire thing. Well that tap was of course 2 stage, so you were turning a lot of god damn tap by time you were 6" in. I cranked on that for a while at the end of my shift, and the other toolmaker, being in a rush, asked one of the 2nd shift maintenance guys to finish tapping it that night. This guy made about 3 cranks by hand and decided to find a socket that would fit the tap drive square and beat it through the rest of the way with an impact wrench. I don't know how long the tap lasted but of course he broke it off. Being half assed, we had no way to feasibly remove the 8" plus of buried tap. So we had to buy another big block of bronze, another tap, and do it all over again. Think of all the money we saved Now I gotta procure, or make, 1"-8LH tap to clean up the threads. Halfway considering buying a bolt and fluting it since I'm just cleaning existing threads. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 2:02:28 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Speaking of taps- one of my DX6's seized, the nut rusted up. My fault, didn't check coolant concentration. Now I gotta procure, or make, 1"-8LH tap to clean up the threads. Halfway considering buying a bolt and fluting it since I'm just cleaning existing threads. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 2:08:16 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That might work but the bolt is likely too undersize to really clear anything. I would turn and thread a piece to fit just shy of tight and flute it. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Speaking of taps- one of my DX6's seized, the nut rusted up. My fault, didn't check coolant concentration. Now I gotta procure, or make, 1"-8LH tap to clean up the threads. Halfway considering buying a bolt and fluting it since I'm just cleaning existing threads. That is the way to do it! I've done that several times myself, usually use ETD-150 since it is hard enough to not wear out right away. I have done a few out of tool steel that I knew would see more than occasional use, those were hardened afterwards of course. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 2:09:02 PM EDT
[#45]
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Posted: 8/2/2021 2:34:28 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That is the way to do it! I've done that several times myself, usually use ETD-150 since it is hard enough to not wear out right away. I have done a few out of tool steel that I knew would see more than occasional use, those were hardened afterwards of course. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Speaking of taps- one of my DX6's seized, the nut rusted up. My fault, didn't check coolant concentration. Now I gotta procure, or make, 1"-8LH tap to clean up the threads. Halfway considering buying a bolt and fluting it since I'm just cleaning existing threads. That is the way to do it! I've done that several times myself, usually use ETD-150 since it is hard enough to not wear out right away. I have done a few out of tool steel that I knew would see more than occasional use, those were hardened afterwards of course. I have a Griffin Spartan permanently married to a Tikka T3 because of tight thread fit and stainless on stainless 
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Posted: 8/2/2021 2:37:22 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You braise a 1/2" shank onto your current drill bit to make it longer. Quick and easy solution. If the hole needs to be a precision size use a reamer to take out the last few thousandths. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 2:39:21 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: There *IS* an app for that You didn't say but that sure looks like McMaster-Carr. (and I notice it's in the URL as well) McMaster-Carr is the answer to most of life's questions. Quote HistoryQuoted: There *IS* an app for that You didn't say but that sure looks like McMaster-Carr. (and I notice it's in the URL as well) McMaster-Carr is the answer to most of life's questions. At a sometimes painful price. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 4:00:22 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That is the way to do it! I've done that several times myself, usually use ETD-150 since it is hard enough to not wear out right away. I have done a few out of tool steel that I knew would see more than occasional use, those were hardened afterwards of course. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Speaking of taps- one of my DX6's seized, the nut rusted up. My fault, didn't check coolant concentration. Now I gotta procure, or make, 1"-8LH tap to clean up the threads. Halfway considering buying a bolt and fluting it since I'm just cleaning existing threads. That is the way to do it! I've done that several times myself, usually use ETD-150 since it is hard enough to not wear out right away. I have done a few out of tool steel that I knew would see more than occasional use, those were hardened afterwards of course. I'll use stressproof, don't think I have any etd left. |
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Posted: 8/2/2021 7:31:38 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: There *IS* an app for that You didn't say but that sure looks like McMaster-Carr. (and I notice it's in the URL as well) McMaster-Carr is the answer to most of life's questions. Quote HistoryQuoted: There *IS* an app for that You didn't say but that sure looks like McMaster-Carr. (and I notice it's in the URL as well) McMaster-Carr is the answer to most of life's questions. Thank you fellers. I went this route. Other ideas were great. I really need to get better machining tools and some skills to go along with them. |
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