Lower control arm movement

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Lower control arm movement

Posted: 5/29/2020 4:09:28 PM EDT

In April I got some new tires for my F150. Since I had also replaced the shocks with a 2" lift last fall I wanted an alignment done too. The shop said the lower control arm bushings were bad and that the alignment wouldn't hold. I never noticed any issues with the bushings. So I replaced the control arms myself with some Moog parts then took it back for the alignment. Now I do have clunk and play in the front end. Went I apply the brakes firmly, the front of the truck jerks to the right. Feels kind of like rolling around on marbles. I stuck a Gopro under there and recorded this. This isn't normal is it?

https://youtu.be/sBFYFDqP0Po

Posted: 5/29/2020 4:30:27 PM EDT

[#1]

Quoted:
In April I got some new tires for my F150. Since I had also replaced the shocks with a 2" lift last fall I wanted an alignment done too. The shop said the lower control arm bushings were bad and that the alignment wouldn't hold. I never noticed any issues with the bushings. So I replaced the control arms myself with some Moog parts then took it back for the alignment. Now I do have clunk and play in the front end. Went I apply the brakes firmly, the front of the truck jerks to the right. Feels kind of like rolling around on marbles. I stuck a Gopro under there and recorded this. This isn't normal is it?

https://youtu.be/sBFYFDqP0Po

View Quote

the gopro was a good idea

you have fore-aft slip at the bottom bushings, they're either the wrong size, wrong type, or were inappropriately installed

the mount could also have been damaged previously, but that is unlikely sit would have easily been noticed

question: did you use the original bolts? they may be too narrow which could allow twisting. just spit balling.

is more likely that they're the wrong size allowing slip

Posted: 5/29/2020 7:29:01 PM EDT

[#2]

Bushing on the rear of that A-arm has the wrong inner diameter for your application or you forgot to instal a spacer when you put it back together.

Posted: 5/29/2020 7:38:33 PM EDT

[#3]

Quote History

Quoted:
Bushing on the rear of that A-arm has the wrong inner diameter for your application or you forgot to instal a spacer when you put it back together.

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I installed the parts I was sent and didn't have any extras. The left side doesn't do this. I've sent a message to Moog to see what they have to say about it.

Posted: 5/29/2020 8:32:20 PM EDT

[#4]

Installer error.
Even if they sent you the wrong kit, it is your responsibility to compare old to new for dimensions and shape of parts.
Then you should have taken pictures of how the pieces came out and the new ones went in.

Definitely your mistake for improper installation or installing the obviously incorrect parts.

Posted: 5/29/2020 8:38:42 PM EDT

[#5]

Quote History

Quoted:
Installer error.
Even if they sent you the wrong kit, it is your responsibility to compare old to new for dimensions and shape of parts.
Then you should have taken pictures of how the pieces came out and the new ones went in.

Definitely your mistake for improper installation or installing the obviously incorrect parts.

View Quote

They're not the obviously incorrect parts. They look exactly like the OEM and are the part number specified by Moog themselves.

Posted: 5/29/2020 9:47:07 PM EDT

[#6]

Quote History

Quoted:

They're not the obviously incorrect parts. They look exactly like the OEM and are the part number specified by Moog themselves.

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
Installer error.
Even if they sent you the wrong kit, it is your responsibility to compare old to new for dimensions and shape of parts.
Then you should have taken pictures of how the pieces came out and the new ones went in.

Definitely your mistake for improper installation or installing the obviously incorrect parts.

They're not the obviously incorrect parts. They look exactly like the OEM and are the part number specified by Moog themselves.

I think what he is saying is, right part number wrong part, or possibly defective or incomplete part

He is also saying that since you did the work, it's ultimately your responsibility to verify same/same on fitment and suitability of part and repair.

This falls 100% on you, and may ultimately be a defective part, but at this point its your fault for being where you are.

I'd back off on the asshole response and throttle up on taking things apart to see the real issue

Posted: 5/29/2020 11:26:26 PM EDT

[#7]

Moog went to shit somewhere around 8-12 years ago, as far as I can tell. Their quality is bottom barrel chinese knock off nowadays. I quit using them around 2012.

I can't speak for your vehicle, but I know that they sell numerous suspension parts for the 4runner that do not fit. They continue selling parts from the 4th gen (2003) as fitting the 5th gen (2010+) and they simply don't.

Posted: 5/30/2020 12:09:28 AM EDT

[#8]

Theory: You installed the control arm at full droop, then torqued everything down. Once you lowered the truck you twisted the brand new bushings and tore them in short order. You have to load the suspension (Put the truck back on the ground and bounce the shiz out of it) before torqueing the control arms to the body.

Posted: 5/30/2020 4:19:45 PM EDT

[#9]

The bushing /w sleeve should fill the entire mount front to back. There is no way you should have enough clearance on either side of the bushing for the control arm to move like that.

Each end also has a stop collar that prevents the arm from shifting to either end. It looks almost like you're missing one or both collars, but I don't know that they can even be removed from the bushing sleeve.

In addition the bushing bolts need to be torqued to spec to the point that the bushing does not really rotate, it twists inside the bushing sleeve.

I would take a picture of both the forward and rear control arm bushings/mounts and post them.

Posted: 5/30/2020 6:25:41 PM EDT

[#10]

The original control arm

Attached File

New on the right

Attached File

Attached File

New on the left

Attached File

Posted: 5/30/2020 7:38:11 PM EDT

[#11]

You can try backing off the bolts and retorqueing them. Sometimes the treads are out of spec/contaminated/have burrs, etc so they don't torque correctly the first time. -Even some rust between the mount and the bushings could cause it.

If that doesn't work, measure the distance between the mounting surfaces with some calipers, if they are the same side to side, pull the LCA and measure the bushings.

Edit:

I will also add that I switched from 100% Moog to 0% Moog a few years back after getting an LCA and a pitman arm that were both crap and had to be replaced in less than a month. I used AC Delco (K1500) and had no problems....

Posted: 5/30/2020 7:46:02 PM EDT

[#12]

While those are nice pics they don't really help at all, the issue is with the rear bushing on the left side correct?

Take the two bolts out that hold it to the cross member and pivot it out a bit, take the bolt for the rear bushing and stick it in there without it being on the cross member. If it rattles around like a small dick in a worn out box Moog put the wrong spec bushing in that A-arm. it should fit with almost no play at all.

Posted: 5/30/2020 9:49:14 PM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:
Theory: You installed the control arm at full droop, then torqued everything down. Once you lowered the truck you twisted the brand new bushings and tore them in short order. You have to load the suspension (Put the truck back on the ground and bounce the shiz out of it) before torqueing the control arms to the body.

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I'm with this guy.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Lower control arm movement

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