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Posted: 9/11/2020 11:41:30 AM EDT
[#1]
Do it.
Also, use oil-based primer when you repaint. |
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Posted: 9/11/2020 11:48:44 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do it. Also, use oil-based primer when you repaint. Yep, I'm going Oil based with DAP 33 glaze |
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Posted: 9/12/2020 4:25:53 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted: I have a couple of OLD windows that have to re-glazed. It's a project I've put off and there is exposed wood which is dry as dirt. I want to give them a coat of BLO so that the oil isn't sucked out of the glaze. I re-glazed a couple of other windows years ago and they were dry and the glaze cracked long before it should have. Assuming I use the right kind of glaze, does this sound like it would work? I use wood hardener until it starts to build a film. It sets up quickly so you can apply another coat pretty quickly. And another... And another... Without some additional hardener (Japan Drier) BLO takes days to weeks to actually set up. |
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Posted: 9/12/2020 4:49:54 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Without some additional hardener (Japan Drier) BLO takes days to weeks to actually set up. BLO has a hardener in it. It is raw linseed oil that takes forever to cure. Even so, the idea is to stop the linseed oil from being leached out of the glazing. The glazing is whiting and linseed oil. |
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Posted: 9/12/2020 6:01:57 PM EDT
[#5]
Actually I thought I may dilute the BLO with Mineral spirits or Turpentine, I forget which
I've used this on rifle stocks I have at least a month or more, unless winter comes early, which I doubt |
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Posted: 9/13/2020 4:25:17 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: BLO has a hardener in it. It is raw linseed oil that takes forever to cure. Even so, the idea is to stop the linseed oil from being leached out of the glazing. The glazing is whiting and linseed oil. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Without some additional hardener (Japan Drier) BLO takes days to weeks to actually set up. BLO has a hardener in it. It is raw linseed oil that takes forever to cure. Even so, the idea is to stop the linseed oil from being leached out of the glazing. The glazing is whiting and linseed oil. BLO still takes a long time to set up. Most of what is done to make BLO is to get it to partially set by heating. Adding some additional Japan Drier can get it into the overnight area. |
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Posted: 9/14/2020 11:04:09 AM EDT
[#7]
If you don't have time to let any of the coatings set up, just use clear shellac. I used to do that when I repaired windows when my parents owned their hardware store if I had to do a really weathered window. The shellac dries fast and seals the wood so it won't suck the linseed oil out of the glazing compound. Shellac really isn't weatherproof, so don't use it on the whole window, just the glass channel. The glazing will seal the shellac so that it isn't exposed. Then make sure to paint or otherwise seal the rest of the window. Simple, easy and quick drying.
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Posted: 9/14/2020 2:09:46 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you don't have time to let any of the coatings set up, just use clear shellac. I used to do that when I repaired windows when my parents owned their hardware store if I had to do a really weathered window. The shellac dries fast and seals the wood so it won't suck the linseed oil out of the glazing compound. Shellac really isn't weatherproof, so don't use it on the whole window, just the glass channel. The glazing will seal the shellac so that it isn't exposed. Then make sure to paint or otherwise seal the rest of the window. Simple, easy and quick drying. That's a really great idea Thank you very much |
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Posted: 9/15/2020 6:05:44 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's a really great idea Thank you very much No problem and you're welcome. |
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Posted: 9/15/2020 6:17:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's a really great idea Thank you very much Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: If you don't have time to let any of the coatings set up, just use clear shellac. I used to do that when I repaired windows when my parents owned their hardware store if I had to do a really weathered window. The shellac dries fast and seals the wood so it won't suck the linseed oil out of the glazing compound. Shellac really isn't weatherproof, so don't use it on the whole window, just the glass channel. The glazing will seal the shellac so that it isn't exposed. Then make sure to paint or otherwise seal the rest of the window. Simple, easy and quick drying. That's a really great idea Thank you very much Shellac is not moisture resistant. It has few uses outdoors. |
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Posted: 9/16/2020 10:30:13 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Shellac is not moisture resistant. It has few uses outdoors. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: If you don't have time to let any of the coatings set up, just use clear shellac. I used to do that when I repaired windows when my parents owned their hardware store if I had to do a really weathered window. The shellac dries fast and seals the wood so it won't suck the linseed oil out of the glazing compound. Shellac really isn't weatherproof, so don't use it on the whole window, just the glass channel. The glazing will seal the shellac so that it isn't exposed. Then make sure to paint or otherwise seal the rest of the window. Simple, easy and quick drying. That's a really great idea Thank you very much Shellac is not moisture resistant. It has few uses outdoors. That's where the glaze and paint come in  |
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Posted: 9/16/2020 11:53:19 AM EDT
[#12]
Well, it's been a week since this thread started, is your linseed oil (boiled or with Japan drier) dry yet?
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Posted: 9/16/2020 2:31:07 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well, it's been a week since this thread started, is your linseed oil (boiled or with Japan drier) dry yet? It's still on the "to Do" list I like to get info ahead of time |
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Posted: 9/16/2020 6:51:14 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Shellac is not moisture resistant. It has few uses outdoors. I said that it wasn't moisture resistant. I also said that you don't use it on the whole window, just the glass channel. Seal the shellac in the glass channel with the glazing, then paint or otherwise seal the rest of the wood with paint or some other sealer. The shellac isn't exposed to any weather but seals the exposed wood on the glass channel so it doesn't leach the linseed oil out of the glazing compound, making it fail prematurely. I did this for years, even on some windows in my own house. As long as the shellac is sealed from the outside, no problems. Leave the rest of the wood exposed to where moisture can get to the shellac, then you have issues. |
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Posted: 9/22/2020 11:32:04 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's where the glaze and paint come in They are NOT perfectly water tight either. |
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Posted: 9/22/2020 1:13:00 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They are NOT perfectly water tight either. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: That's where the glaze and paint come in They are NOT perfectly water tight either. Better than bare wood like it is now |
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Posted: 9/25/2020 10:53:33 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Better than bare wood like it is now Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: That's where the glaze and paint come in They are NOT perfectly water tight either. Better than bare wood like it is now Do it correctly or do it again. BLO with some additional hardener can be made so set up in a few days. Or you can deal with rotted out window wood. |
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