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Posted: 5/17/2020 4:00:58 PM EDT
[#1]
It's a lot of work for one. Clean all surfaces with TSP, scuff sand everything to 220-320 grit, spraying oil based primer and paint is the way to go. Spraying is the easy part but it takes technique and a ton of prep to get it right. Lots of YouTube videos out there.
I pull all doors and drawers and set up a paint booth in a customer's garage, with a drying rack. I normally do 6-8 kitchen remodels a year but we're usually updating the doors and drawer faces. |
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Posted: 5/17/2020 4:24:51 PM EDT
[#2]
What is "TSP" this is all new stuff to me.
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Posted: 5/17/2020 5:43:35 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What is "TSP" this is all new stuff to me. Trisodium Phosphate. Don't get the phosphate free crap, it doesn't work well. It strips the gloss from paint as well as any surface contaminates. Wear dish washing gloves when using it. IDK how that will work with the existing finish which is likely some form of polyurethane. You'll need TSP to clean, use a deglosser, sand, and blow with air and wipe with a tack cloth to get the dust off. Are you looking to reface, or are you looking to paint? That's two separate things. Refacing they come in and basically laminate a sheet to the front of the faceframe and cut it out with a router/chisel/knife for the door openings. They typically replace the doors at the same time rather than repaint. If you decide to paint I have 2 suggestions. Go on ali-express, ebay, or amazon and buy a bunch of cheap lazy susan's. Put the door on top of it and spin it while you paint it. Spraying will yield a much better finish than rolling so it's worth buying an electric corded sprayer. Painting face frames is just time consuming. |
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Posted: 5/17/2020 6:17:24 PM EDT
[#4]
OMG! Don't get me started.
Oops, too late.  OP, I did this about two years ago. Doing this properly is a HUGE amount of work. Mine came out GREAT! but it was difficult, really difficult,... you have no idea how difficult it is going to be. Lessons Learned (in no particular order) - 1. Never, ever reface your cabinets (unless immediately selling to someone you hate). 2. Benjamin Moore makes the perfect paint* for kitchen cabinets. 3. Spray the door and drawer fronts. 4. Roll and/or brush the face frames. 5. Roll and or brush the interiors. 6. Prep, prep, prep, prep, prep, prep before painting. 7. Caulk/spackle every tiny imperfection before you paint. 8. You will end up painting the interiors before all is said and done. This will more than double the work. There is so much more, I don't know where to start because I will never stop. * ADVANCE is a water-borne alkyd enamel. It is exquisite for this task. |
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Posted: 5/17/2020 6:46:02 PM EDT
[#5]
In the last house we used "deglosser" on the cabinets before painting them. It strips the gloss finish and lets the new paint adhere. The ones I did with a green scotchbrite pad seemed the hold the paint better than the ones the wife did with just a cloth. Bit of miscommunication when showing her how, and several months down the road some of the drawer fronts she did showed some spot where the paint got scraped off.
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Posted: 5/17/2020 7:58:35 PM EDT
[#6]
We will be painting them.
Doing some reading, I see some have used the TSP. They then used liquid sandpaper to scuff the surface. Followed by a bonding primer then paint and poly to seal. I do not plan on doing inside the box, just the outer visible surfaces. By the window/sink will get painted as well. Looking at hvlp sprayers for this, and some other jobs around the house. More tools are a good thing.. From.what I can find online, yes it is time consuming. But in the end the rewards will be well worth it. I have the room to put a make shift spray booth in my garage and hang the doors and draw fronts. |
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Posted: 5/17/2020 9:13:19 PM EDT
[#7]
We used this, painted with a brush and mini roller.
Could try your hand at rolling 1 cabinet before you invest in a sprayer. See if your happy with the results. Rustoluem kitchen kit |
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Posted: 5/17/2020 9:15:59 PM EDT
[#8]
Spray will give you the smoothest finish by far.
I prefer lacquer with alkyd 2nd like Ben Moore advance mentioned for topcoat. Clean the cabinets with denatured alcohol to remove any residue Lightly sand with fine sandpaper. I prefer lacquer undercoater for the primer , 2nd is BIN primer a shellac, 3 rd zinsser cover stain oil based primer. |
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Posted: 5/17/2020 9:54:41 PM EDT
[#9]
Do NOT use Liquid Sand-Paper thinking it will save you work. It will not. I have seen paint peel off in sheets from surfaces prepped with Liquid Sand Paper.
Stripping loose paint off and repainting everything is a LOT of work. There is no substitute for TSP and sanding to prep the surface. |
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Posted: 5/17/2020 10:03:31 PM EDT
[#10]
Tagged
Thinking about our kitchen, but may start in the kids bathroom first to get the hang of it. I've read his things about the Benjamin Moore advance paint as well that was already recommended. And yes, prep is key There are a lot of great YouTube videos out there. This one is long but it's good. This guy has a lot of awesome videos and honestly has made a lot of my diy projects go smoother  DIY How to Paint Your Kitchen Cabinets A to Z |
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Posted: 5/18/2020 1:30:42 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: We will be painting them. Doing some reading, I see some have used the TSP. They then used liquid sandpaper to scuff the surface. Followed by a bonding primer then paint and poly to seal. I do not plan on doing inside the box, just the outer visible surfaces. By the window/sink will get painted as well. Looking at hvlp sprayers for this, and some other jobs around the house. More tools are a good thing.. From.what I can find online, yes it is time consuming. But in the end the rewards will be well worth it. I have the room to put a make shift spray booth in my garage and hang the doors and draw fronts. |
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Posted: 5/18/2020 12:05:30 PM EDT
[#12]
I am going to get some of this TSP, and some bonding primer.
I will do a test run on a draw front, BACKSIDE of the draw front as to hide if it fails. Now I did pick up the liquid sandpaper which says on it " Degreaser & Deglosser". I am thinking this with a fine sandpaper to more or less wet sand the surface. Then clean and prime with the bonding primer. Let sit for a day to dry/cure then will try brush on and roll on to paint. Let dry and see how it turns out. I will not seal it for a while, but figured this was just a test. Now one thing is the wife and daughter purchased paint from lowes. The paint guy asked what they were painting and she explained. He then took the color samples and scanned them Into the computer. They bought a gallon of each color and bought it home. This paint is "sherwin Williams" showcase stain blocking paint and primer semi-gloss interior 100% Acrylic. Is the 100% Acrylic a bad choice? |
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Posted: 5/18/2020 7:46:02 PM EDT
[#13]
Yes, it’s a bad choice.
I pulled the specs off the Lowe’s website: Cabinets : no Furniture :no |
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Posted: 5/18/2020 10:20:12 PM EDT
[#14]
nm.
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Posted: 5/21/2020 12:32:44 AM EDT
[#15]
Check this outfit out. They also have a bunch of Youtube videos showing best practices.
This stuff is amazing and is fairly fool proof. You gotta look past the 'folksy/craftsy Susie Homemaker' marketing, yet it's really phenomenal paint. It's 'chalk paint'.  Get All My Best Tips For Painting Your Cabinets Using ALL-IN-ONE PAINT!    |
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Posted: 5/21/2020 5:59:33 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Have you personally used this stuff? Going to watch the video in a little while. The last picture you posted of the gray, that is similar to what we are doing on the top cabinets. Then a dark bluish gray o the bottom cabinets. Currently the cabinets are natural maple, with a semi gloss sheen to them. The trick is getting good coverage and then stippling/chopping it to get the brush marks out of it and setting it up to self-level. I'm currently waiting on a shipment and I'm gonna paint my bottom cabinets a dark gray (Cobblestone) and my upper cabinets a lighter gray (Coliseum). Then I'm gonna Stone Coat my countertop. Watch this shit:   7 Techniques to Make Outstanding Epoxy Projects | Stone Coat Countertops Epoxy |
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Posted: 5/22/2020 7:38:10 PM EDT
[#18]
That is badass...post some pictures of your counter when done.
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Posted: 5/22/2020 7:53:54 PM EDT
[#19]
Do not cut any corners during prep. Every person I know that painted their cabinets wound up having the paint peel off around the handles. In every case, they cut corners during prep.
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Posted: 5/23/2020 12:38:09 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: We will be painting them. Doing some reading, I see some have used the TSP. They then used liquid sandpaper to scuff the surface. Followed by a bonding primer then paint and poly to seal. I do not plan on doing inside the box, just the outer visible surfaces. By the window/sink will get painted as well. Looking at hvlp sprayers for this, and some other jobs around the house. More tools are a good thing.. From.what I can find online, yes it is time consuming. But in the end the rewards will be well worth it. I have the room to put a make shift spray booth in my garage and hang the doors and draw fronts. If you’re going to spray, try PPG Breakthrough. It’s not the easiest to brush and roll, but it’s very adhesive and very tough, and it reaches acceptable hardness in a day or two, at least in light colors, meaning you can rehang the doors quickly without them sticking. I put it on our rental‘s cabinets six years ago and it’s still holding up. Other options include BM Advance, or the Sherwin Williams urethane acrylics. I would run from the box store wall paints like your wife bought. They may never harden up at all, and may react poorly to kitchen chemicals. You’re going to spend days prepping, and use a gallon or two of paint. Don’t try to save money on paint. It’s not worth it. |
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Posted: 5/26/2020 9:25:14 AM EDT
[#21]
Small plot twist...
Decided to eat the ($75) cost of the paint we originally purchased, will go with Benjamin Moore advanced. The test I did on the back of the draw front came out good. But the acrylic paint constantly has a sticky feel to it. I wonder if to save some prep time on the cabinet boxes. Would it be better to remove the veneer that has a sheen to it. This part is the 1/2 inch cabinet box edge you see when the door is open. I can get sheets to do the ends of the cabinet ends as well. I know it is a heat activated glue, and is available in some big box stores. I can get it with just a sanded finish, no poly finish coat for the paint to adhere to. This isJust a thought, it does not seem like it would be too bad of a job to do. On a further update note. I come to find a friend had a HVLP spray set, Capspray CS9100 .. so doors will be sprayed in a makeshift paint booth. He also has the infrared curing/heat lamps. Not sure if the lamps are a good idea or not. |
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Posted: 5/26/2020 12:49:00 PM EDT
[#22]
You should return the paint to Lowes.
They will issue a refund under these circumstances & hopefully someone will educate the person who sold it to you. |
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Posted: 5/26/2020 4:27:57 PM EDT
[#23]
Question is if they will take it back, It is a custom color. She grabbed 2 door samples from the kitchen design area for them to scan and then try to color match.
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Posted: 5/26/2020 5:09:14 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Question is if they will take it back, It is a custom color. She grabbed 2 door samples from the kitchen design area for them to scan and then try to color match. It's a custom color but for painting cabinets as you said she told the lowes person. Pull the specs and you will see it is not a cabinet paint. scroll down to specifications showcase paint |
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Posted: 5/28/2020 10:20:05 PM EDT
[#25]
Well, went and returned the paint..guy at register was about to say no. At the next return register, some employee said that's the wrong paint. So the guy gave us a refund.
I honestly didnt think they would do it without a big to do argument. |
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Posted: 6/22/2020 1:10:08 AM EDT
[#26]
Progress?
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Posted: 6/29/2020 8:06:17 PM EDT
[#27]
Not on the cabinets yet.
Ceiling and walls all painted, all shiplap and trim done. Upper cabinet doors are all off. Wife and daughter have been in the way. Daughter is getting married in October, so they have been making the center pieces and decorations. So I had to switch gears to making wood planter boxes, and staining them. |
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Posted: 6/29/2020 9:13:54 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: OMG! Don't get me started. Oops, too late. OP, I did this about two years ago. Doing this properly is a HUGE amount of work. Mine came out GREAT! but it was difficult, really difficult,... you have no idea how difficult it is going to be. Lessons Learned (in no particular order) - 1. Never, ever reface your cabinets (unless immediately selling to someone you hate). 2. Benjamin Moore makes the perfect paint* for kitchen cabinets. 3. Spray the door and drawer fronts. 4. Roll and/or brush the face frames. 5. Roll and or brush the interiors. 6. Prep, prep, prep, prep, prep, prep before painting. 7. Caulk/spackle every tiny imperfection before you paint. 8. You will end up painting the interiors before all is said and done. This will more than double the work. There is so much more, I don't know where to start because I will never stop. * ADVANCE is a water-borne alkyd enamel. It is exquisite for this task. Exactly what we did 5 years ago. I pulled all the doors and external hinges and made a jig and installed the hidden euro hinges. When those were mounted and aligned I pulled them down and handed doors and drawers over to a pro that had a booth. I prepped 90% of the cabinets since I filled all the screw holes and smoothed out the indents where the old hinges were. DA sanded everything with 220. Hired pro did the rest. Turned out awesome. 5 years later it still looks as good as the day they were done. |
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Posted: 6/30/2020 8:30:52 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do not cut any corners during prep. Every person I know that painted their cabinets wound up having the paint peel off around the handles. In every case, they cut corners during prep. +1 |
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Posted: 6/30/2020 12:24:44 PM EDT
[#30]
Sherwin-Williams full gloss acrylic works well.
Ultra Deep Water-Based Door and Trim Paint. |
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