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Posted: 5/8/2020 11:03:16 PM EDT
It was free and it has issues.
First issue: How does this on top work? My Bridgeport clone has a simple drawbar with a nut up there. Tighten the nut and it draws the collet in. The knurled part in the pic only turns less than a full turn and doesn't appear to have any pneumatic fitting. Possibly related, if I stick my finger up the spindle as far as I can, I don’t touch anything. If I stick my finger in my BP clone I can touch the end of the drawbar. A R-8 collet will only go in as far as shown. It will fit flush in my Jet. If not an R-8 what would be the likely size of an Acer variable speed head with a 3hp motor? Thanks   Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 5/8/2020 11:06:29 PM EDT
[#1]
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Posted: 5/8/2020 11:10:02 PM EDT
[#2]
Draw bar snapped off above collet ? Haven't seen that set up before. Doesn't seem to be a quick change spindle.
Add'l question: does the knurled knob go up and down? More: look up Mach-1 quick change R8 system. |
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Posted: 5/8/2020 11:21:31 PM EDT
[#3]
Hard to tell from the pics but is the spindle taper a straight taper like a Morse or Brown & Sharp?
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Posted: 5/9/2020 9:16:02 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CNC_Guy: Draw bar snapped off above collet ? Haven't seen that set up before. Doesn't seem to be a quick change spindle. Add'l question: does the knurled knob go up and down? More: look up Mach-1 quick change R8 system. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CNC_Guy: Draw bar snapped off above collet ? Haven't seen that set up before. Doesn't seem to be a quick change spindle. Add'l question: does the knurled knob go up and down? More: look up Mach-1 quick change R8 system. The knurled knob does not go up or down. Quoted: Hard to tell from the pics but is the spindle taper a straight taper like a Morse or Brown & Sharp? It looks and feels just like the R8 spindle in my Jet. It has a slight champher for 1/4 of an inch or so and then is straight feeling. I can't move the z axis at the moment so I can't actually stick my head in there to look quite yet. That camera shot is all I can see. |
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Posted: 5/9/2020 12:03:48 PM EDT
[#5]
That Mach-1 system (or 1 like it) may be what you have. Does the quill handle have a "snap" to it if you push up at the full retracted position? The video at the website shows how it works but I can't tell if they use a proprietary collet or adapter.
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Posted: 5/9/2020 1:08:46 PM EDT
[#6]
It kind of looks like the an R8 with a broken off end of some sort of tooling up in there.
I say R8 because of what looks like the indexing pin at 3 o'clock. |
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Posted: 5/9/2020 1:38:17 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CNC_Guy: That Mach-1 system (or 1 like it) may be what you have. Does the quill handle have a "snap" to it if you push up at the full retracted position? The video at the website shows how it works but I can't tell if they use a proprietary collet or adapter. I did look up the Mach1 and it has similarities, but definitely not it. Thank you, though, because I might look into their system if I can't figure this one out. |
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Posted: 5/9/2020 1:51:03 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By paul463: It kind of looks like the an R8 with a broken off end of some sort of tooling up in there. I say R8 because of what looks like the indexing pin at 3 o'clock. Unfortunately it does look like something broken off in there because I can't see any of the threaded drawbar and the collet stops shy of seating. Tonight I'm going to see if I can remove the knurled knob and get the whole assembly out. |
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Posted: 5/9/2020 10:57:02 PM EDT
[#9]
I tore the top off and stripped everything down to a threaded rod which I knocked downward with a hammer. The mystery piece came loose with it but won’t come down past the key. If I push it all back up it gets tight. Not sure if it’s hitting an internal taper or galling where something spun?
I’ve tried spinning it looking for a keyway with no luck. It looks like ball bearings in there to me now that it’s closer to the end. Best pic I could get.  Attached File |
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Posted: 5/10/2020 1:14:22 AM EDT
[#10]
I wonder if someone didn't put something up in there or if a bearing didn't fall down from up in the head. The torx looking thing looks like the top of a pneumatic quick change draw bar. Like the bar is upside down.
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Posted: 5/10/2020 10:57:00 AM EDT
[#11]
It looks like it was some sort of quick disconnect system? Whatever it was it’s busted now. The outer race is still stuck in there as it won’t slide past the key and is still preventing a collet from seating. I’ll try to get that out tonight.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 5/10/2020 11:15:47 AM EDT
[#12]
What kind of mill is it? That’ll narrow things down a bit.
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Posted: 5/10/2020 12:21:38 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mace2364: What kind of mill is it? That’ll narrow things down a bit. Acer Ultima? Acer on the head, Ultima on the mill. |
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Posted: 5/10/2020 1:32:31 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hsracer201: It looks like it was some sort of quick disconnect system? Whatever it was it’s busted now. The outer race is still stuck in there as it won’t slide past the key and is still preventing a collet from seating. I’ll try to get that out tonight. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/114964/CA6DB824-02E4-4590-B251-2D2402CA4E52_jpe-1409517.JPG Stop where you are and take a look at This Looks very similar. |
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Posted: 5/10/2020 3:14:50 PM EDT
[#15]
I’m going to second the above. I’ve seen a few different types of quick change arrangements. They’re all a little bit different. But that one even has the same knob on top as yours.
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Posted: 5/10/2020 3:57:39 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryYup. Bummer. If I had just slowed down and read CNC_guy’s post better... The machine didn’t convey with any of the other pieces of the kit and I likely wouldn’t dump the money into it until I sort out the controls. Still have to get that piece out of the spindle tonight. |
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Posted: 5/10/2020 5:37:24 PM EDT
[#17]
Since they’re still in business, I’ll bet you can get parts.
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Posted: 5/12/2020 5:18:06 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hsracer201: Yup. Bummer. If I had just slowed down and read CNC_guy’s post better... The machine didn’t convey with any of the other pieces of the kit and I likely wouldn’t dump the money into it until I sort out the controls. Still have to get that piece out of the spindle tonight. I see you got it figured out. I knew what that was as soon as I saw the pics, just haven't checked this forum for a bit. If you keep it be damn careful with it, you can set spinning tools flying out of the spindle with that set up. I don't know if it is a feature or a flaw, probably an adjustment thing. |
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Posted: 5/13/2020 2:29:48 PM EDT
[#19]
The spindle was super easy to remove.
 Attached FileOnce it was out I could remove the locating key and remove what was left of the quick release system turning it back into a regular drawbar system. Now it will function as a manual mill at least.  Attached File |
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Posted: 5/13/2020 2:39:51 PM EDT
[#20]
Now comes the fun stuff. It has a first gen Acu-rite Millpwr control that throws an error code on start-up.
 Attached FileThis version (1.3.1) is no longer supported and google doesn’t lend much help. I know it’s a shot in the dark that anyone would be familiar with this, but I’d like to try before I explore other options. I have tried restarting it multiple times and it’s always the same. Not a single button on the display does anything, there’s no keyboard, no disk drive, nothing. I don’t even know where to start.  Attached FileThis tag is on the x-axis Servo motor but all the labels are gone. Do you think the 140 is talking about volts AC? I’d like to see if it works.  Attached File |
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Posted: 5/13/2020 5:18:29 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hsracer201: Now comes the fun stuff. It has a first gen Acu-rite Millpwr control that throws an error code on start-up. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/114964/F7284C63-F1DC-4D84-BBCE-9FABAABD5F4E_jpe-1414180.JPG This version (1.3.1) is no longer supported and google doesn’t lend much help. I know it’s a shot in the dark that anyone would be familiar with this, but I’d like to try before I explore other options. I have tried restarting it multiple times and it’s always the same. Not a single button on the display does anything, there’s no keyboard, no disk drive, nothing. I don’t even know where to start. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/114964/9DE74F1E-E2EE-4347-991E-B316145D1A1A_jpe-1414189.JPG This tag is on the x-axis Servo motor but all the labels are gone. Do you think the 140 is talking about volts AC? I’d like to see if it works. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/114964/7814BA9B-2795-4CD9-A99C-AFED8DFDEA80_jpe-1414212.JPG Those are DC servo motors, 140V DC 26 Amps. Don't put any AC on it! You can download a copy of the software from Acu-Rite, maybe a fresh load will reset that error code. There should be an RS-432 port on it somewhere. |
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Posted: 5/13/2020 7:38:40 PM EDT
[#22]
Pull the boards you can and clean the contact areas with a clean pencil eraser, then re-seat them firmly. You can actually unplug the drive cables and set the box on your desk and it will work as a stand alone for trouble shooting or to learn the control.
edit: yours might be the older style where all the important parts aren't in the read out box. |
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Posted: 5/13/2020 9:46:23 PM EDT
[#23]
Alright, before I go any further or address the previous posts, I have an observation and a huge question.
The bed locks don’t do anything. I can lock down both adjusters on each axis and it doesn’t impede movement at all. Is that because it was presumably converted to ball screws? In the event I can’t get it to run off cnc, is this going to make for a horrible manual mill? EDIT to clarify: they are ball screws, just unsure if factory or a retro-fit. |
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Posted: 5/14/2020 11:31:24 AM EDT
[#24]
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Posted: 5/15/2020 2:30:25 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hsracer201: Alright, before I go any further or address the previous posts, I have an observation and a huge question. The bed locks don’t do anything. I can lock down both adjusters on each axis and it doesn’t impede movement at all. Is that because it was presumably converted to ball screws? In the event I can’t get it to run off cnc, is this going to make for a horrible manual mill? EDIT to clarify: they are ball screws, just unsure if factory or a retro-fit. The clamps have probably been disabled to prevent an overload on the servos. Would be an easy fix if you strip the controls off it. |
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Posted: 5/16/2020 12:14:16 PM EDT
[#26]
I personally would strip the controls and put DMM AC servos on and run Mach3 or 4, or Centroid. 2 axis should be around $1500.
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Posted: 5/16/2020 9:11:14 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Eli75: I personally would strip the controls and put DMM AC servos on and run Mach3 or 4, or Centroid. 2 axis should be around $1500. I may wind up going that route. Who knows? There’s been a little progress, and more confusion. I removed and cleaned every contact I could get to, and replaced a coin battery inside. After that it gave a “press F1 to continue” msg. I don’t have F1! Finally found a well hidden round keyboard plug. Then searched all week and found a keyboard that fits and hit F1 to get to a setup menu. Cool. When I exit the setup it says insert startup disk into A: and press a button to continue. I don’t have a startup disk or an A: drive.  I guess I need to find an old computer and hook it up via rs-232 to install the file from their website? I’m just a little bit too young for all this DOS style stuff. |
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Posted: 5/16/2020 9:29:14 PM EDT
[#28]
Call Acu-rite at 1-847-490-1191. They may be able to answer your questions. Probably try to sell you an upgrade tho.
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Posted: 5/16/2020 9:36:12 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CNC_Guy: Call Acu-rite at 1-847-490-1191. They may be able to answer your questions. Probably try to sell you an upgrade tho. Everything I’ve read says they will not help, so I’ve been hesitant to call. I found someone on PM who has a disk but hasn’t logged in for 3 years. Once I get a computer with Win98 and a 3.5” drive I’ll try downloading the software to a disk and then try a rs-232 cable. It’s not even probably worth the effort but there’s something to be said for trying for fun. |
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Posted: 5/19/2020 7:54:19 PM EDT
[#30]
There isn't a floppy drive hidden behind a panel or door on that thing? You can use hyper terminal or any of the com apps in Cam software. I may have something if you need it.
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Posted: 5/20/2020 8:19:20 AM EDT
[#31]
There is something to be said for trying, and there is something to be said for having it up and running right now with some support. Saying this with some sadness regarding some of our own machines that are in great physical shape with dead or dying controls.
The Centroid option is a good one. Good luck either way! 
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Posted: 5/23/2020 8:18:09 PM EDT
[#32]
Ok, I finally found the A: drive. I feel stupid not seeing the door. It just looked like a contoured line on the display.
I had someone copy a boot disk and a Millpwr disk but I cannot get it to read the disks. I’ve gone into the configurations and changed it to boot from A first, then C, and tried it vice versa. I can’t get it to an A: prompt. Supposed to able to hit Ctrl +C on startup but it doesn’t work. Also tried Ctrl+break as I read somewhere but similar results. I’m really just ignorant on all this. I’ve watched some YouTube vids on DOS so I kinda know what to do when I get there, just can’t get there. I followed these directions but nothing changes. I’m thinking the hard drive might be bad? |
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Posted: 5/27/2020 11:18:16 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’m thinking the hard drive might be bad? Or the A drive? If it won't let you boot from it I'm thinking A drive. Interestingly enough, I think you've left this subforum's expertise and entered into that of the "Urban Commandos" subforum... I've had hit or miss experience getting help there, mostly bc of my inability to know what questions to ask, but you have nothing to lose to try it. Might be someone helpful there. |
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Posted: 5/27/2020 11:45:03 PM EDT
[#34]
I am really enjoying this thread
Thanks OP!
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Posted: 5/30/2020 10:41:31 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Or the A drive? If it won't let you boot from it I'm thinking A drive. Interestingly enough, I think you've left this subforum's expertise and entered into that of the "Urban Commandos" subforum... I've had hit or miss experience getting help there, mostly bc of my inability to know what questions to ask, but you have nothing to lose to try it. Might be someone helpful there. Tossing nets in various ponds catches more fish, or something like that. A couple guys there have actually been helpful and I'm further along than I was. But still very lost. It will not boot from the A: drive but I can get it to read a disk now that I know how to get into DOS mode. Baby steps. |
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Posted: 6/6/2020 2:32:03 PM EDT
[#36]
With the help of one of our very own ARF computer guys the mill now boots to Millpwr without errors. It opens the DRO screen. This is a good start!
 According to the manual it should find home, but it does not. When I press the up, down, left, right arrows on the controller nothing happens, nothing moves. Per the manual you're supposed to hit "datum", then "home machine" but nothing happens. |
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Posted: 6/6/2020 10:40:52 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: With the help of one of our very own ARF computer guys the mill now boots to Millpwr without errors. It opens the DRO screen. This is a good start! https://i.imgur.com/NwXgrL9.jpg According to the manual it should find home, but it does not. When I press the up, down, left, right arrows on the controller nothing happens, nothing moves. Per the manual you're supposed to hit "datum", then "home machine" but nothing happens. You're further than I would have made it! I'm not much help, but I think you've probably gotten over the hard part. Is there a way to check the part of the board that powers the steppers for output pulses? Is there a circuit breaker/fuse for that part of the board? I can see that getting its power from a different place due to the higher power consumption of the motors. |
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Posted: 6/7/2020 9:00:05 AM EDT
[#38]
There are 2 Servo boards in the control cabinet but I don’t know the first thing about checking them. I did notice a Servo driver fault on the screen when I tried to home the table. Not good.
All of the software appears to work as I can get into all the programming options, but the obsolescence of parts is concerning.  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/7/2020 10:02:53 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: There are 2 Servo boards in the control cabinet but I don’t know the first thing about checking them. I did notice a Servo driver fault on the screen when I tried to home the table. Not good. Rut Roh! Uh, I betting a servo driver board failure... gonna need someone that can diagnose (and hopefully repair) failed circuit boards. |
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Posted: 6/7/2020 8:13:23 PM EDT
[#40]
The ones I used, you needed to manually move the x and y at least 2 inches in the plus direction by hand until it hits a marker on the scale. Then it will find its spot.
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Posted: 6/8/2020 3:44:56 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The ones I used, you needed to manually move the x and y at least 2 inches in the plus direction by hand until it hits a marker on the scale. Then it will find its spot. I located the reference lines you are talking about and tried homing while they were lined up. No difference. I'll try moving them both positive a few inches and see if anything changes. Thank you. ETA: Tried homing everywhere along each axis, always with the same servo driver fault. |
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