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Posted: 5/2/2021 7:09:23 PM EDT
Good afternoon all,

I’ve got some transmission work coming up, and am replacing the filters and pan on my truck. I have a 2007 Dodge Ram 1500, 4wd with the 4.7l V8 and auto transmission.

Due to being stationed in NY for awhile and having never lived where they salt the roads, I’m dealing with some rust issues. Both transmission cooler lines are rusted, and I have replacements on hand for them. But the part that connects to the transmission, I have no clue how to remove. I know the other side uses quick disconnects, I’ve messed with them before on other dodges. I cannot find the instructions in the factory service manual. I’ll attach some pictures below. Thanks for the help!

Attachment Attached File


Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 5/2/2021 7:13:42 PM EDT
[#1]
Under that plastic clip is a recessed clip, you can use a pick to pull the clip out. They also make a tool that spreads the clip and allows you to pull the line out(Lisle 22990).

ETA video
Click me
Link Posted: 5/2/2021 7:14:18 PM EDT
[#2]
Remove the "E" clip from under the plastic cover and the line will pull out.  It will take some force even after the clip is removed.



Reinstall the clip before you plug the new line in.
Link Posted: 5/2/2021 7:32:22 PM EDT
[#3]
Be sure to contain that e-clip.  They can disappear faster than a take-down detent!
Link Posted: 5/2/2021 8:23:41 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Under that plastic clip is a recessed clip, you can use a pick to pull the clip out. They also make a tool that spreads the clip and allows you to pull the line out(Lisle 22990).

ETA video
Click me
View Quote


That video really helped, thank you! I just couldn’t visualize what the plastic cover was doing and didn’t want to go prying on it while it was attached to the truck.

Thanks everyone! That’ll help me replace these lines next weekend or as soon as the weather clears!
Link Posted: 5/2/2021 8:29:30 PM EDT
[#5]
Make damn sure that plastic retainer goes back over the clip or the clip will fly off later on.
Link Posted: 5/2/2021 8:51:01 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Make damn sure that plastic retainer goes back over the clip or the clip will fly off later on.
View Quote


X100. Make sure the cover clips all the way down and is square. Should be able to spin the white plastic piece with some force when it is on correctly.
Link Posted: 5/2/2021 9:49:34 PM EDT
[#7]
Maybe pick up a pack of these first? I always keep a pack or two around
Link Posted: 5/2/2021 11:36:38 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Maybe pick up a pack of these first? I always keep a pack or two around
View Quote


I just came on to ask where I could replacements in the case that I lose/break one. Thank you!
Link Posted: 5/3/2021 1:31:47 AM EDT
[#9]
Trying to get the line back in a 4l80 in the truck and the line angle won’t let me seat into the quick connect. I can connect the line to the quick connect but cannot get it to thread.  No room to get a good angle and my hands are big.

Any tricks or help?

ETA: extra connectors are about the same price as the clip on Amazon or Advance Auto.  There is a GM part number for the clip.
Link Posted: 5/3/2021 9:07:35 AM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Trying to get the line back in a 4l80 in the truck and the line angle won’t let me seat into the quick connect. I can connect the line to the quick connect but cannot get it to thread.  No room to get a good angle and my hands are big.

Any tricks or help?

ETA: extra connectors are about the same price as the clip on Amazon or Advance Auto.  There is a GM part number for the clip.
View Quote



Sounds like you're going out of order? Thread connector into trans and tighten, then push the line in and lock it down.
Link Posted: 5/3/2021 10:24:44 AM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Sounds like you're going out of order? Thread connector into trans and tighten, then push the line in and lock it down.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Trying to get the line back in a 4l80 in the truck and the line angle won’t let me seat into the quick connect. I can connect the line to the quick connect but cannot get it to thread.  No room to get a good angle and my hands are big.

Any tricks or help?

ETA: extra connectors are about the same price as the clip on Amazon or Advance Auto.  There is a GM part number for the clip.



Sounds like you're going out of order? Thread connector into trans and tighten, then push the line in and lock it down.

Tried it that way, the angle of the line and the lack of space won't allow me to push the hose into the connector.
Link Posted: 5/11/2021 5:43:59 PM EDT
[#12]
Got around to doing this project today. Thanks for everyone’s help, those clips sure are a pain in the ass. I had some trouble getting the top clip off, and of course when it came off it flew away. Overall, about 2-2.5 hours, not too bad. Here’s a breakdown of what the dealership wanted to replace the lines:

2 lines-$320
1.2hr labor-$140ish

So about $500. I purchased the lines from a dealer on eBay, for a total of $230. They’re expensive, but I couldn’t find any aftermarket for my truck and with the old ones lasting 14 years I’m hoping I get awhile out of this set.

Here’s some pics showing the rust that was on the old lines. At one point I tried to paint them to slow down the rust, and of course I didn’t clean the existing rust off good enough. The other pic is the old beside the new lines. I’m sure they would have been fine for a couple of years, but with PCS’ing next year I’d rather just go ahead and swap them out.

Attachment Attached File
Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 5/11/2021 8:05:53 PM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Got around to doing this project today. Thanks for everyone's help, those clips sure are a pain in the ass. I had some trouble getting the top clip off, and of course when it came off it flew away. Overall, about 2-2.5 hours, not too bad. Here's a breakdown of what the dealership wanted to replace the lines:

2 lines-$320
1.2hr labor-$140ish

So about $500. I purchased the lines from a dealer on eBay, for a total of $230. They're expensive, but I couldn't find any aftermarket for my truck and with the old ones lasting 14 years I'm hoping I get awhile out of this set.

Here's some pics showing the rust that was on the old lines. At one point I tried to paint them to slow down the rust, and of course I didn't clean the existing rust off good enough. The other pic is the old beside the new lines. I'm sure they would have been fine for a couple of years, but with PCS'ing next year I'd rather just go ahead and swap them out.

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/127527/A03708A8-CD7F-4217-87AB-74AA5672F2A8_jpe-1938559.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/127527/723E3333-0F2B-452F-9C12-0517CE62845F_jpe-1938563.JPG
View Quote

Good idea to do it now plus you were doing maintenance on the tranny anyway. You know they would eventually leak/burst on the coldest day of the year and not in your driveway.

Here in SW PA rotting brake and tranny lines are the norm. I have done enough brake lines where it made sense to buy the hydraulic flaring tool that does most vehicles. Still a massive pain in the arse but at least the ends are perfect
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