I have a 2018 XL1200X (Forty-Eight 1200 Sportster) that is due for it's 1,000 mile fluid change.
As the stealership want ridiculous amounts of money to do it, I am doing it myself.

There seems to be 2 schools of thought on this fluid change. Since the sportsters are 2 hole affairs,
some say you can use 20w50 for both engine and transmission/primary chain...while others say you are better using the 20w50 in the engine, and gear oil in the tranny/primary chain.

Dealer service department recommends 20w50 in both. Lots of ppl on the web say they use 80/140 gear oil. I am using Mobil 1 V-twin 20w50 synthetic in the engine oil change.

Here is the first question: Do you use synthetic or dino gear oil or the 20w50 synthetic or dino oil in the tranny/primary?



Question 2

Do you remove the clutch inspection cover and add the tranny/primary oil there, watching to reach a certain level, then replacing the cover, or do you simply add 32 oz to the tranny/primary throught the chain inspection port?


Thanks for you responses.

How do you put less than 1000 miles in 2 years? Regardless of mileage, I would change oil yearly. What does the manual say to use?

I bought it in 2019, it was new old stock. I would like to have ridden it more, but work this year really limited my time.

Can't find the user manual, not sure if they gave me one.

I'm fairly comfortable with what the service department told me, just wanted opinions.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Forty-Eight+1200+Sportster+fuids+change

Do you have a Service Manual?

Nice to have if you are going to work on it yourself.

Do not put 32 ounces of fluid in the Primary.

https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/vehicle/lookupForm
Look up your owners manual and find out what Harley recommends.

Yes, get the service manual.  Pricey but well worth it.  I've had mine for nearly 30 years and I treat it like a bible, except for the greasy fingerprints on most of the pages.
Speaking of which, my bike turned 30 last month.

Buy a book, do what it says. Don't worry what other people do.

I’m a certified H-D master tech

Get the bike hot before you change the oil, your bike has a gravity feed oiling systems so you want to run the bike to make sure all of the oil cycles out of the engine and back into the oil tank before you drain it

I would use Harley Syn3 for your engine, buy 3 quarts - you’ll only use about 2.75

For the primary/trans I would use one whole quart of Harley Formula+

Get a new o-ring for the primary drain plug, p/n 11105

Taking the derby cover off can be a pain.
I had a handful of replacement screws around for when i inevitably screwed some up.

This.  I monkeyed around with various aftermarket options, and frankly the HD stuff is doing just fine and cheaper.

No need to f with the derby cover, fill through the inspection hole.
Adjust primary chain tension while in there.
.02

Service manual states drain trans and engine while hot.

I used Mobil 1 full syn 20w50 in the engine last year and Formula + in the trans. Filled through the derby cover as I also adjusted my clutch.

This year I will use Mobil 1 in both just because it is easier buying one product at Walmart. Truth is there are a million threads as to what fluids should be used and really the Evo Sportster doesn't care. This is the tractor of motorcycles and I'm sure the cheapest conventional oil won't let you down.

I believe it's good practice to change engine/trans/brake fluids and lubricate cables at the start of each season.

I'd go with what the manual or dealership says for recommended oil, but I'd do it myself.

Don't use synthetics in motorcycle transmissions with wet clutches. A lot of times they are too slippery and you'll end up replacing clutch plates after they soak in the synthetic and refuse to grab. I made this mistake once-if they don't call for a synthetic (one of mine currently does), use the dinosaur jiuce.

Sounds like the route I will take, thanks.

Make sure you’re using the right size Torx.

The derby cover screws take a T-27, which is an oddball size.

A lot of people don’t even have a T-27 in their socket sets so they use the T-25 which will easily damage the screw.

I have several different types of T27 in my tool box because of the bike.
I had bought a set of torx wrenches with a T27. I just had a hard time breaking them free.
At the time there was an actual Snap-On retail outlet near me. I ended up buying a 3/8 drive T27 socket to get it done.
I know to give the screws a rap on the head to break them lose, when they're stubborn.

I tried the moco oil and I've tried aftermarket oil and to tell you the truth I never noticed a difference between them. Run what is available to you. I sold my bike a few years back and then got a BUell to replace it. Then sold the Buell last year. I ran the Sportster harder than the Buell. Had a lot more fun on the Sportster too. I miss that bike.

This has been of use to me.

Harley oil is made by Citgo.



It's very well formulated.


A lot of my guys and bike shops I supply have had great luck with Redline 20w50 Motorcycle oil, it tends to run cooler.

S
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