All of this is terrible breeding from beginning to end.
At that point, just get a purebred poodle and call it good. Doodle mutts aren’t “papered” anyway, at least not through any reputable registry. So if someone’s selling you “papered” doodle mutts, they’re scamming you, plain and simple.
On top of that, breeding is more than just putting two dogs together to make puppies, at least if you’re interested in doing things ethically and responsibly. You start with finding a prospective bitch and establishing if she is breeding quality. Does she look like she’s supposed to look, act how she’s supposed to act, and do what she’s supposed to do, and have you verified this with independent experts? Then, you have her health clearances done. This varies breed to breed, but often includes hip X-rays, elbow X-rays, various genetic tests, cardiac evaluations, and ophthalmic evaluations performed by board certified veterinarians. Then, you establish a goal for breeding. Perhaps improving some aspect of conformation or working ability in the next generation. Then, you find the right stud to help you achieve that goal, and you make sure he has had all the appropriate health testing and independent evaluation Ike you did with your bitch.
Then, once the bitch is pregnant, you provide careful, attentive prenatal care, including imaging to establish how many puppies to expect and establishing an emergency vet to be on call in case the labor stalls or a puppy gets stuck. Learn everything you can about whelping puppies, including how to revive them, suction them, and tube feed them. Learn about fading puppy syndrome, hypoglycemia, and other puppy ailments, and how to recognize and treat them. Be prepared to take a couple weeks off to stay with your bitch after she whelps to help her with puppies, make sure she doesn’t reject them, make sure she’s recovering well, and watch for signs of mastitis.
Once the puppies are born, start
Early Neurological Stimulation protocols to ensure you produce the most well-adjusted, mentally sound puppies you can. Then follow that up with early training and socialization to give the pups a great head start. Hopefully, you’ve established a list of prospective owners by this time. Around 7 weeks of age, you should have a
Volhard Puppy Aptitude Test done on the litter to help determine which puppies are best suited to which of your potential puppy buyers. For instance, the quiet, shy puppy wouldn’t be the best fit for a family with 6 boisterous, rowdy young children, and the dominant, sharp puppy wouldn’t be the best for a timid first time owner.
Finally, you place the puppies with the understanding and contractual obligation that you will take back any puppy you produce at any stage in its life no matter what.
This helps prevent dogs from getting dumped into shelters and rescues. Every step of the process ensures you produce healthy, mentally and physically sound, well-adjusted and resilient puppies that are matched with appropriate homes, and that last item is the safety net in case a home falls through in spite of all that.
ETA:
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I've been living allergy free for 6 months with the older Golden doodle.
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Because doodle mutts are mutts, there isn’t a lot of consistency from dog to dog. Some will aggravate allergies and others won’t, and there isn’t a good way to predict which will be which. Dog 1 may not, but dog 2 very well could, and puppies would each be a chance. If you want any sort of predictability on the allergy front, you have to stick to purebred dogs.