User Panel
[#1]
Smaller diameter bit with corresponding easy out. Use plenty of lube and maybe a little heat.
|
|
[#2]
Yard it and send off to a machine shop. I’m not fucking drilling that shit out. Fuck that
|
|
[#3]
Penetrating oil. Drill press and easy out. Helicoil if needed.
|
|
[#4]
Drill it out. At least it's easily accessible, it could be a lot worse.
|
|
[#5]
Should add that if you can, peen a divot in it to keep your bit from walking all over.
|
|
[#6]
|
|
[#7]
On second thought. There's a chance you get a small chisel on it and back it out . Or you could make it worse.
Is that where that piece of metal on top of piston came from ? |
|
[#8]
|
|
[#9]
Left handed drill bit. Snapped off there shouldn't be a ton of tension on it, might just spin out.
|
|
[#10]
I’d bust out the welder. That one doesn’t look remotely challenging.
|
|
[#11]
I've removed worse. Get your easy outs and quit being a fucking twat.
|
|
[#12]
Mag drill, dont do by hand. Dont use those fucking twisted eaze outs either. The square kind are the best. All the rest willl break the fuck off. Take a tiny dremel to flatten off top of stud and may even use it to sand the top part of thread off. Penetrating oil, heat, cool before trying to remove. If it wont budge, dont force it, last thing you want is a broken and stuck eaze out in it. Ping center of bolt. May even try a bushing or plate bolted to other holes with a hold directly over broken bolt to hold drill center.
Or pull, send to machine shop and/or trade for a small block. Broken tap and you probably loose your core charge replacment. My guess, bolt is bottomed out. Or just weak bolt and It will Easily come out with small effort, may try tapping on it will tiny punch and hammer and using a pick to push/pull on outer edge in a fashion to unscrew it. Or it is stuck like a mofo. Top threads are jacked up, for sure need to clean them up before trying to unscrew. |
|
[#13]
Drill it and easy out that mother fucker. Not even in a bad spot. Not a big deal.
|
|
[#14]
|
|
[#15]
That looks like you can get a chisel on that pretty well. Spray it down good with a good penetrating oil and let it set an hour or two.
I have had good luck with PB Blaster . It works very well. Get a small chisel , get a good bite with it and wack . I have taken out plenty of broken bolts with a chisel alone. If that doesn't work, this is one time when a dremmel can actually be useful. Use a small round carbide cutter in a dremmel and grind a small divot in the bolt as close to center as you can. Don't try to start a drill on that uneven surface you'll screw things up. Grind that divot as close to center as you can and then use a center drill on it. This will give you a good start. Then drill it out for an easy out. Don't go crazy and to deep. just enough for your easy out to work. I have also used old dull taps as an easy out too. Tap it in and they grab enough to back a bolt out most times. Most important thing is to get your hole as close as you can to center. |
|
[#16]
Drill and easy out, I bet that will come out no problem. As mentioned try turning it out with a pick or small screw driver first.
I had 3 exhaust manifold bolts snap that had been there for 20 years, fortunately two of them were easily back out with a dental pick, the third came out with any easy out, I had to buy a $120 right angle drill to get it drilled but worth it. |
|
[#17]
|
|
[#19]
Quoted: Drill and easy out, I bet that will come out no problem. As mentioned try turning it out with a pick or small screw driver first. I had 3 exhaust manifold bolts snap that had been there for 20 years, fortunately two of them were easily back out with a dental pick, the third came out with any easy out, I had to buy a $120 right angle drill to get it drilled but worth it. View Quote couldnt weld a nut on it? |
|
[#20]
Mag drill. Centering bit. And without drilling too deep...
New good quality bit. Drill out body of stud. Penetratning oil, heat. Trapezoid easy out. |
|
[#22]
I don't think an ez out has ever worked in the history of ever.
after you get done breaking your EZ out in it, use one of these: http://edmtechcenter.com/tr100/ portable edm tap/screw remover. practice first. |
|
[#23]
|
|
[#24]
I'd make a divot in the center of the bolt for a drill bit to grab, and then use a left hand bit to extract it.
|
|
[#25]
|
|
[#26]
Doesn't look too bad...at least its accessible.
eta: I'd soak it for a while in penetrating fluid, then center-tap and drill a guide hole with a center drill/mag drill combo. Should then come out with one of the tap in extractors. |
|
[#28]
LH drill bit. Center punch it first.
Soak it in penetrating oil first if you can be patient. |
|
[#29]
MIG WELDER TO YOUR RESCUE! Super duper easy peasy. Watch it on YouTube if your not sure.
Take your mig. Build up on top of the broke bolt. When your at the surface set s nut on top if the weld you built up. Fill up the nut with the mig welding it to the part you built up. Let cool. Looks like you need a 3/8s nut. When its cool grab your wrench and back it out. No biggie. I've done this on blocks and heads, cast and aluminum. |
|
[#30]
Since it has to go to a machine shop anyways , let them fix it if they discover the block can be saved.
Could be sleeve time or worse. |
|
[#32]
Pay someone to punch you in the dick via their credit card machine.
Kharn |
|
[#33]
|
|
[#35]
Quoted: I don't think an ez out has ever worked in the history of ever. after you get done breaking your EZ out in it, use one of these: http://edmtechcenter.com/tr100/ portable edm tap/screw remover. practice first. View Quote About three years ago I rebuilt the engine in my 98 F 150 that was originally from the Rust Belt. About half the exhaust manifold bolts broke and I EZed every one out in just a few minutes after spraying with penetrating oil and letting them sit overnight. |
|
[#36]
First things first OP.
Weld a nut on it. Quoted: LOL. I have pulled dozens if not hundreds of broken bolts with EZ Outs. Yes I have broken a couple because I was in a hurry. About three years ago I rebuilt the engine in my 98 F 150 that was originally from the Rust Belt. About half the exhaust manifold bolts broke and I EZed every one out in just a few minutes after spraying with penetrating oil and letting them sit overnight. View Quote Head bolt =/= manifold stud. You'd shear an easy out on a deep bolt like what is displayed. That's going to take more torque than an easy out can handle. BIG BOLTS NEED BIG TORQUE |
|
[#37]
Quoted: Left handed drill bit. Snapped off there shouldn't be a ton of tension on it, might just spin out. View Quote Attached File |
|
[#38]
I'd just drill it out. Not a really big deal to do; done it a hundred times in my career.
|
|
[#39]
|
|
[#41]
I made good money when I have my machine shop burning the bolt out with an old EDM I built to burn out bolts and taps. It was the easiest way to get out a snapped off bolt.
Now if the bolt snapped off a bit above the deck then weld a nut on with a lot of heat. The heat from the welding shrinks and loosens the threads in the block. That was how we got Cummins head bolts out that snapped. They away broke with 2-4 threads out of the block so they were easy. |
|
[#43]
Small sharp chisel see if it will turn, stay clear of threads.
Don't be a heavy handed stupid fuck lightly tapping to see if you can walk it out. Did it snap when removing probably not going to move. |
|
[#44]
Stack tacks until you can get a nut welded to it, after it cools a bit soak in penetrating oil. Remove while the block is still warm.
|
|
[#45]
Is the block Aluminum? There’s a YouTube video where someone uses a chemical that eats away a broken steel stud and leaves the aluminum head intact.
|
|
[#46]
|
|
[#47]
For me, I’d scrap whatever that is. Then get yourself a 3021 F-150 5.0
MasterRace. |
|
[#48]
Quoted: LOL. I have pulled dozens if not hundreds of broken bolts with EZ Outs. Yes I have broken a couple because I was in a hurry. About three years ago I rebuilt the engine in my 98 F 150 that was originally from the Rust Belt. About half the exhaust manifold bolts broke and I EZed every one out in just a few minutes after spraying with penetrating oil and letting them sit overnight. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I don't think an ez out has ever worked in the history of ever. after you get done breaking your EZ out in it, use one of these: http://edmtechcenter.com/tr100/ portable edm tap/screw remover. practice first. About three years ago I rebuilt the engine in my 98 F 150 that was originally from the Rust Belt. About half the exhaust manifold bolts broke and I EZed every one out in just a few minutes after spraying with penetrating oil and letting them sit overnight. |
|
[#49]
|
|
[#50]
|
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.