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Posted: 10/17/2019 6:24:07 AM EDT
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Posted: 10/17/2019 6:32:47 AM EDT
[#1]
Was never a maintainer but friends with a few and used to see pics of it all the time, some of those look a little loose since you can see a little bend in them.
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Posted: 10/17/2019 6:34:59 AM EDT
[#2]
Not bad, but could have been tighter. But, I'm kind of strict cause I had a QA that expected tight wire with no movement.
ETA: Pigtails should be a little longer. A trick to getting it tighter is to move the pliers in a circular motion, without spinning them, and then manually do the last few twists before putting it thru the fastener head. (hope that makes sense) |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 6:47:40 AM EDT
[#3]
Pretty good; now do it with one continuous wire.
Did the bolts around a 20mm Vulcan, I think 27 bolts, all one single wire. Sgt would come by, look at it, "nope, too loose", snip snip. "Do it over" DAMN!!! Got good at it though. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 6:59:49 AM EDT
[#4]
What is the purpose of doing that?
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:02:27 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is the purpose of doing that? |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:03:19 AM EDT
[#6]
Looks ok. That was a nightmare to do for my brothers and his friends bike for VIR endurance race, lol.
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:03:46 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is the purpose of doing that? |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:03:51 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is the purpose of doing that? |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:04:07 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is the purpose of doing that? |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:04:14 AM EDT
[#10]
Too many twists, looks like. Don't want to harden the wire. I think .032" is like 6-10 twists per inch.
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:04:15 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Seriously? |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:04:56 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is the purpose of doing that? |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:05:08 AM EDT
[#13]
Whatcha bringing to the track?
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:06:25 AM EDT
[#14]
So, anyhow, what is this going on?
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:11:13 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not everyone knows everything. I would also like to know the point of this. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:25:04 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Too many twists, looks like. Don't want to harden the wire. I think .032" is like 6-10 twists per inch. I’m between 9-11. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds386.pdf |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:32:28 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
According to Wilwood it’s 6-12 twists per inch. I’m between 9-11. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds386.pdf I would say longer tails and you should do 3-4 bolts per wire. I find it easier to connect more. Youll just have to practice measuring to save waste. Also, definitely needs to be a bit tighter. Getting tight wire is pure practice. Took me a while to be consistent Guessing .032? I use .032 for most racing needs |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:36:22 AM EDT
[#18]
Looks better than I ever managed to do, but it was never my job.
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:36:25 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Too many twists, looks like. Don't want to harden the wire. I think .032" is like 6-10 twists per inch. OP, not trying to beat you down. Your safety wire job looks a lot better than my first attempts. Its one of those things that takes practice and knowing a few tricks/techniques. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:39:29 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
According to Wilwood it’s 6-12 twists per inch. I’m between 9-11. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds386.pdf Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Too many twists, looks like. Don't want to harden the wire. I think .032" is like 6-10 twists per inch. I’m between 9-11. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds386.pdf |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:40:58 AM EDT
[#21]
I'm a prior .mil aircraft mechanic. That's pretty good for a first try.
You needed one more twist on each set in the bottom picture. There's a gap between the twists and the second bolt. I'll second the other member who said to leave the pig tails a little longer. Did you have the pliers down by the hole you used in the second bolt when you were twisting? I always taught new mechanics to have the pliers in line with the wire coming out of the first bolt when doing the twisting. This let's you get nice and tight up to the first bolt. Now you just need some crusty NCO to tell you that it looks pretty good, then snip them all in the middle and say "Do it again." before walking back into the break room for more coffee. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:46:31 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Now you just need some crusty NCO to tell you that it looks pretty good, then snip them all in the middle and say "Do it again." before walking back into the break room for more coffee. 
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:48:14 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whatcha bringing to the track? In the process of building a new motor . Going for 650 RWHP on pump gas. It's setup for road racing yet it ran 11.139 on the 1/4 mile when it had only 500 RWHP. 
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:50:41 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Now you just need some crusty NCO to tell you that it looks pretty good, then snip them all in the middle and say "Do it again." before walking back into the break room for more coffee.
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:50:59 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have a lot of safety wire time in aviation and automotive racing, and your wire looks great. I would say longer tails and you should do 3-4 bolts per wire. I find it easier to connect more. Youll just have to practice measuring to save waste. Also, definitely needs to be a bit tighter. Getting tight wire is pure practice. Took me a while to be consistent Guessing .032? I use .032 for most racing needs Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
According to Wilwood it's 6-12 twists per inch. I'm between 9-11. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds386.pdf I would say longer tails and you should do 3-4 bolts per wire. I find it easier to connect more. Youll just have to practice measuring to save waste. Also, definitely needs to be a bit tighter. Getting tight wire is pure practice. Took me a while to be consistent Guessing .032? I use .032 for most racing needs For a first time it is excellent. I would like to see it a bit tighter and less twists but I will allow it. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:52:03 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
2005 Mustang GT 543 RWHP 500 RWTQ In the process of building a new motor . Going for 650 RWHP on pump gas. It's setup for road racing yet it ran 11.139 on the 1/4 mile when it had only 500 RWHP. https://i.postimg.cc/WbvYq9pQ/IMG-0728.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Whatcha bringing to the track? In the process of building a new motor . Going for 650 RWHP on pump gas. It's setup for road racing yet it ran 11.139 on the 1/4 mile when it had only 500 RWHP. https://i.postimg.cc/WbvYq9pQ/IMG-0728.jpg |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:55:36 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm a prior .mil aircraft mechanic. That's pretty good for a first try. You needed one more twist on each set in the bottom picture. There's a gap between the twists and the second bolt. I'll second the other member who said to leave the pig tails a little longer. Did you have the pliers down by the hole you used in the second bolt when you were twisting? I always taught new mechanics to have the pliers in line with the wire coming out of the first bolt when doing the twisting. This let's you get nice and tight up to the first bolt. Now you just need some crusty NCO to tell you that it looks pretty good, then snip them all in the middle and say "Do it again." before walking back into the break room for more coffee. I’ve tried bringing the pliers close to start then moving them back but then it doesn’t look like 1 continuous twist. I’ll try redoing it tonight to see if I can do better with longer pigtails. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:57:15 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Since you're not flying to Laguardia or to the moon you'll be just fine. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Too many twists, looks like. Don't want to harden the wire. I think .032" is like 6-10 twists per inch. I’m between 9-11. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds386.pdf |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 7:57:40 AM EDT
[#29]
I would fail those.
- Ideally, the safety wire should exit the top bolt head at the 4:30 position and enter the bottom bolt head at the 10:30 position. - .032” get 7-12 twists per inch - Twists don’t go all the way to the hole - Hollow headed bolts with 4 holes should have wires forming an X. - Pigtail should be a little longer so you can bend the pointy end back into the bolt head. With that said, I’ve seen worse from people that get paid to do this for a living. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 8:00:16 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is the purpose of doing that? |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 8:07:35 AM EDT
[#31]
For a first time that is great. You didn't even do one negative.
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Posted: 10/17/2019 8:25:11 AM EDT
[#32]
Lose the pliers and do them manually.
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Posted: 10/17/2019 8:43:26 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would fail those. - Ideally, the safety wire should exit the top bolt head at the 4:30 position and enter the bottom bolt head at the 10:30 position. - .032” get 7-12 twists per inch - Twists don’t go all the way to the hole - Hollow headed bolts with 4 holes should have wires forming an X. - Pigtail should be a little longer so you can bend the pointy end back into the bolt head. With that said, I’ve seen worse from people that get paid to do this for a living. I agree that they are not worthy for return to service in the field. I also agree, that these look better than a lot of field work i have seen. OP, this is the "recommended" method for hollow head shear bolts. I do not recommend it in your case. It is a bit extra work for a brake rotor. Unless you are racing a league car then I wouldnt sweat. I wouldnt do this unless someone was racing IMSA, NASA, etc 
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Posted: 10/17/2019 9:19:20 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Seriously? 
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Posted: 10/17/2019 9:20:54 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I do not think the first point is a critical critique. I have been told that the best point is 10 degrees angle max between wire and exit hole. But bolt heads rarely, if ever, are aligned the way you want. I agree that they are not worthy for return to service in the field. I also agree, that these look better than a lot of field work i have seen. OP, this is the "recommended" method for hollow head shear bolts. I do not recommend it in your case. It is a bit extra work for a brake rotor. Unless you are racing a league car then I wouldnt sweat. I wouldnt do this unless someone was racing IMSA, NASA, etc https://i.postimg.cc/6pfLHt5y/screenshot-2017-10-19-lockwire-thumbnail-image.jpg I followed the instructions on the Wilwood data sheet. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds386.pdf For some reason the specifically state not to string them along. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 9:36:00 AM EDT
[#36]
I didn't know this was a thing. Interesting.
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Posted: 10/17/2019 9:42:13 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks, I followed the instructions on the Wilwood data sheet. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds386.pdf For some reason the specifically state not to string them along. Did you use wire pliers? If you do this often get yourself some Milbar 41W's off ebay for cheap. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 9:48:46 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Not sure why that is. Either way, some more practice and you can match field level work I am sure. Did you use wire pliers? If you do this often get yourself some Milbar 41W's off ebay for cheap. They can be seen in the first picture. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 9:49:08 AM EDT
[#39]
I'm not clear why you would do this for amateur 1/4 mile fun runs - especially when coupled with drilled rotors.
FWIW - I have run PFC DD 2-piece rotors on my track cars for 9 years. I've never had a bolt move. 
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Posted: 10/17/2019 9:55:26 AM EDT
[#40]
Not too shabby for your first lock wire job. They make lockwire guns. Which are fucking awesome. Also expensive AF
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Posted: 10/17/2019 9:58:43 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not everyone knows everything. I would also like to know the point of this. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 10:05:54 AM EDT
[#42]
I award you bonus points for actially curling the wire the proper direction around the bolt heads. Had a guy drop a car off at my shop for me to plumb the brake system and he had curled the safety wire the wrong direction on every single one of those bolts. 
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Posted: 10/17/2019 10:07:29 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
2005 Mustang GT 543 RWHP 500 RWTQ In the process of building a new motor . Going for 650 RWHP on pump gas. It's setup for road racing yet it ran 11.139 on the 1/4 mile when it had only 500 RWHP. https://i.postimg.cc/WbvYq9pQ/IMG-0728.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Whatcha bringing to the track? In the process of building a new motor . Going for 650 RWHP on pump gas. It's setup for road racing yet it ran 11.139 on the 1/4 mile when it had only 500 RWHP. https://i.postimg.cc/WbvYq9pQ/IMG-0728.jpg 
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Posted: 10/17/2019 10:10:09 AM EDT
[#44]
My 64 Land Cruiser uses safety wire, its factory, think toyota used it to about 1968.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I didn't know this was a thing. Interesting. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 10:21:48 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm not clear why you would do this for amateur 1/4 mile fun runs - especially when coupled with drilled rotors. FWIW - I have run PFC DD 2-piece rotors on my track cars for 9 years. I've never had a bolt move. https://i.vgy.me/eJMCDf.jpg 
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Posted: 10/17/2019 10:27:19 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would fail those. - Ideally, the safety wire should exit the top bolt head at the 4:30 position and enter the bottom bolt head at the 10:30 position. - .032” get 7-12 twists per inch - Twists don’t go all the way to the hole - Hollow headed bolts with 4 holes should have wires forming an X. - Pigtail should be a little longer so you can bend the pointy end back into the bolt head. With that said, I’ve seen worse from people that get paid to do this for a living. My trick is to visualize the fastener backing off, and design my wrap so that if that tries to happen it tightens the fasteners it is connected to, hope that makes sense. You also need good pliers. Some folks like the “wave” style ones, I frickin hate them and use ones with knurled jaws (the part the jaws hold is gonna get cut off anyway). My pliers are these, sometimes you can get them used for $100 or so (ebay search the p/n) or on sale for $125-150ish. While I like and use a lot of Harbor Freight tools, their safety wire pliers are an abomination and should be destroyed with a shotgun slug in a Taofledermaus video. Pro tip, soak the joint of a new set of pliers in some fine oil like turbine engine oil for a week, it will be the perfect tension forever (if you take care of them). Also some very careful use of exceedingly fine emery paper will make the knurled jaws hold well but be far less sharp. |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 10:46:28 AM EDT
[#47]
Is safety cable allowed? Much faster than lock wire, but meets the same requirements.
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Posted: 10/17/2019 10:56:52 AM EDT
[#48]
For what it's worth, the FAA guidance on safety wire can be found in the AMT General Handbook starting on page 7-76.
https://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/handbooks_manuals/aircraft/media/amt_general_handbook.pdf |
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Posted: 10/17/2019 11:00:09 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is safety cable allowed? Much faster than lock wire, but meets the same requirements. 
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Posted: 10/17/2019 11:02:15 AM EDT
[#50]
Wife’s Honda CR-V came with not all the holes drilled for the front license plate so I safety wired it on using nearby connection points. Solid. I asked if she wanted to drill holes and she said no.
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