Modified this NKP boxcar to have infinite capacity. I guess I should mask off the interior dimensional data and patch over it.

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I'm confused

The black gives the illusion that the interior is infinitely large. You can't see the floor or walls. It's just a black hole.

Once you go Black 2.0 you never go back.

(Unless you're Anish Kapoor, that is.)

Very cool indeed - I've thought about painting a DIY guitar build with that stuff or with Black 3.0 (but I'm afraid that I might lose it if I put it down somewhere in a dark room).

What is the material to which you applied the (lack of) color? Plastic? Wood? Metal?

Any comments about the application process? Any special surface prep work? How many coats? How long to dry? Did it go on without leaving brush strokes (or did you use an airbrush)? Did you thin it before applying it? Is it just like any other acrylic paint, or ???

I wouldn't recommend a guitar build with this. It's extremely soft. Sort of like touching chalk on a chalkboard. It looks good, but just won't stand up to handling or wear.

The body of the car is injection molded plastic, probably styrene. The floor/frame is cast metal. Not sure what the alloy is, but it's cast.

The manufacturer recommends a soft brush, and it's extremely thick because of the amount of pigment. You absolutely must shake the bottle very very well, and then shake it some more. I gave the interior of the car and the floor three coats. Two in fairly quick succession, and then a final coat. It takes at least an hour to dry, and the longer it dries, the darker it gets. I'd say an hour between coats, and a good 24 hours to be completely dry. The paint smells like black cherry, so if you can smell cherries, it ain't dry.

It paints really well when you brush it on, and if there are brush strokes, I certainly couldn't see them. It spreads really really well, and a drop the size of a dime was enough to do the entire car once. The doors on these cars slide, so I blocked around the opening on the closed side with some square styrene stock to block that out, and then painted around it until I couldn't see light coming through. I did it all with a brush, but it can be thinned and airbrushed. There's a guy who painted a Hotwheels car by thinning it and spraying it. It can also be thinned really well and used as a wash. I can't say it's like any acrylic I've ever used.

I will warn you, if you don't shake the bottle well, use a soft brush, or give it a couple of coats, you won't get great results. Also, it's not Vantablack, so no matter what you do, it won't be absolutely black. In this case, it was good enough. It is advertised as absorbing around 96% of light, so if you're examining your work under a really bright light source, it's gonna show surface features, and it'll look like an extremely dark grey. I didn't think it was worth it to buy a bottle of Black 3.0 to get another percentage point (maybe) of light absorption.

What I think this might really be useful for modeling is places like tunnel liners, the intake of a jet engine, exhaust pipes, and maybe, if thinned, as a way to airbrush on diesel soot.

Good info. Thanks