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Posted: 12/3/2018 10:05:12 PM EDT
I installed 1 leviton decora wifi switch without any problems.  On the second one that I want to put in, I ran into an issue.

The light switch controls lights that shine under the soffit, which I can tell they had someone add it on after the house was built.

Anyway in the switch, there is only 1 bundle of wires....white/black and ground.   In the switch, the white is hot and black goes out to the lights.

So I've tried:
White wire to the black/hot, black wire to the white spot -->  switch powers on, but all the led lights barely shine and stay on.
White wire to the black/hot, black wire to the red spot -->  no power light on the switch

The only way I can think of wiring this switch to work right is run another wire from the attic down the wall for a common wire.

Anyone know of an easier way?

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Link Posted: 12/3/2018 10:28:44 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 12/3/2018 10:51:58 PM EDT
[#2]
If I’m reading your junction  box correct. You are only switching the neutral. You will need to pull new wire.
Link Posted: 12/3/2018 10:52:03 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Black to black and white to red should work
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My white and black wires are reversed at the switch.  Tried white to black and black to red....no go

Also, In the switch that I did get working, it was similar.  Hooked it up w/o the common wire and the switch wouldn't power on.  I was able to tap into a common wire from the switch next to it and it worked fine.
Link Posted: 12/3/2018 10:56:34 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
If I’m reading your junction  box correct. You are only switching the neutral. You will need to pull new wire.
View Quote
That's what I thought.

Is there any issue with running a jumper to the common wire on another switch.  I have a double outlet about 6in to the right and a single outlet right behind this one. Or would it be better to just run a wire down. Either way is fairly easy to do
Link Posted: 12/3/2018 10:58:56 PM EDT
[#5]
It looks to me like power is in the attic.  They ran the hot down to the switch then back out up to the light.  This means there is no neutral in the switch box - meaning your Wifi switch won’t work.  It needs a hot and a neutral which I don’t think you have

The bubba ass hack should have covered the white wire with Black tape to help not confuse other people.  It’s a mess

Many times power sources at the switch so it would work.  In this case I think all you have at the switch is the hot leg coming down and then going right back up.

There is a way to make it work but it is a safety hazard so I will omit
Link Posted: 12/3/2018 11:02:40 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
It looks to me like power is in the attic.  They ran the hot down to the switch then back out up to the light.  This means there is no neutral in the switch box - meaning your Wifi switch won’t work.  It needs a hot and a neutral which I don’t think you have

The bubba ass hack should have covered the white wire with Black tape to help not confuse other people.  It’s a mess

Many times power sources at the switch so it would work.  In this case I think all you have at the switch is the hot leg

There is a way to make it work but it is a safety hazard so I will omit
View Quote
I taped them after I took the pic. Arrow is to the switch.  
I'll just run another wire and set it up like the diagram
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Link Posted: 12/3/2018 11:07:16 PM EDT
[#7]
I would replace the piece of wire going down to the switch with 12/3

From the hot feed you will connect black down to your switch then feed red right back up

Basically swapping/replacing the white that’s was coming out of your switch for the red in the 12/3

Then the white coming down to the switch will be tied with all your neutrals and life will be good

So - Black from the power feed down to the switch

Red from the switch back up to the light

White tied to all the neutrals in the attic and down to the WiFi switch

You will be doing the exact same setup except white will be a neutral and red will replace what they were doing with the white wire from the switch.  Make sense?

Edit - and get a rubber knockout cover for the hole missing a wire in the middle.  Also a 4” metal box cover plate.  Thing needs to be sealed up tight

Can’t tell if the metal box is really grounded either
Link Posted: 12/3/2018 11:22:38 PM EDT
[#8]
That makes sense.
Its nailed to the board.  How should the box be grounded?
It has a cover, I just took it off to see inside.

Also there are at least two or 3 other junction boxes they did for these lights and the boxes are just sitting on the insulation/rafters. Guessing that's not right.
Link Posted: 12/3/2018 11:23:00 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I would replace the piece of wire going down to the switch with 12/3

From the hot feed you will connect black down to your switch then feed red right back up

Basically swapping/replacing the white that’s was coming out of your switch for the red in the 12/3

Then the white coming down to the switch will be tied with all your neutrals and life will be good

So - Black from the power feed down to the switch

Red from the switch back up to the light

White tied to all the neutrals in the attic and down to the WiFi switch

You will be doing the exact same setup except white will be a neutral and red will replace what they were doing with the white wire from the switch.  Make sense?

Edit - and get a rubber knockout cover for the hole missing a wire in the middle.  Also a 4” metal box cover plate.  Thing needs to be sealed up tight

Can’t tell if the metal box is really grounded either
View Quote
^^^^ Should work
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 1:50:18 AM EDT
[#10]
Just get a big fender washer and drywall screw.  Smash the bare grounds under the big washer when you screw into the joist through a hole in the box

Then the grounds are touching the box

All the boxes need to be secured to wood and the wires all need a Romex staple close to the box.  Then it will look better
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 3:29:55 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I would replace the piece of wire going down to the switch with 12/3

From the hot feed you will connect black down to your switch then feed red right back up

Basically swapping/replacing the white that’s was coming out of your switch for the red in the 12/3

Then the white coming down to the switch will be tied with all your neutrals and life will be good

So - Black from the power feed down to the switch

Red from the switch back up to the light

White tied to all the neutrals in the attic and down to the WiFi switch

You will be doing the exact same setup except white will be a neutral and red will replace what they were doing with the white wire from the switch.  Make sense?

Edit - and get a rubber knockout cover for the hole missing a wire in the middle.  Also a 4” metal box cover plate.  Thing needs to be sealed up tight

Can’t tell if the metal box is really grounded either
View Quote
This is the right way. Use 3 conductor cable and use the red and black for hot and white for neutral.

The box doesn’t look grounded. You can buy green ground screws that fit the empty hole on the bottom of the box in the upper left corner in the pictures. Attach a bare copper from that to the ground pigtail.

All junctions boxes should be rigidly mounted to wood framing members.
Link Posted: 12/6/2018 12:43:38 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
All junctions boxes should be rigidly mounted to wood framing members.
View Quote
There are numerous systems that use steel straps for solidly mounting electrical boxes.

There is no requirement for wood.
Link Posted: 12/9/2018 10:42:46 PM EDT
[#13]
Got it up and running.  Thanks everyone for the help!

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