Recently picked up a Wen 4212 drill press... wasn't really looking for a Chinesium drill press, but got a deal on it that I couldn't pass up.

I've decided that later this summer, I'm going to invest in one of the LMS or Sieg mini-mills, however in the interim I'd like to expand the capability of this press.  I'm NOT looking to do any precision milling, but I do plan on installing a nice X-Y table to hold and locate holes etc.  I'd also like to stiffen up the chuck/quill assembly.  I've seen some guys tapping the end of the arbor and running a screw up through the chuck as a faux draw bar.  Are there any other options for securing the chuck/reducing runout and increasing side strength?
Thanks all, I look forward to the beratings for expecting much out of a cheap drill press :)

I got my drill press in a woodwork show several years ago.  It's also Chinese and well built, very solid and versatile, since it let's me rotate the head to drill angle holes.  Used it to drill on wood and metal.

Over the years I also tried a few different things such as light milling on wood but that thing is definitely not designed for it.  So, I got a router table for that kind of job and have been happy ever since.

As far as accessories for the drill press, I got a V-shaped support that holds circular pieces in place.  The other accessory is a holder that is attached to the drill press' working table and can hold almost anything while I drill.  That one is good for jobs where I want both hands free.

Regarding the X-Y table, I found out that measuring directly on the piece and marking where I want the hole with a punch works well.  

Don’t waste too much money and time on the drill press. Save up for the mill and just do some minor tuning on the press.

My drill-press upgrade recommendations:
* A good dial indicator and arm/mount you can use to accurately tram the table
* Tram the table
* A good drill-press vice to hold things securely and square. Not an x/y table. A good vice.
* Use dial indicator against drill shank or drill rod in chuck. If there’s runout, upgrade chuck
* A set of stubby countersink center drills for spot drilling to accurately locate holes.
* If you want to go all-out buy or fabricate a jack-shaft gear-reduction to slow it down for metal-work

Don’t bother with that last one unless you really like the press and want to keep it forever.
Using a vice and center drills to locate and start holes is far more accurate than using jobbers and a sloppy x/y table
The dial indicator will be essential for tuning/adjusting other machinery you add later, and for locating parts during setup. It’s money well spent.

My drill press came with a chuck that had an incredible amount of run out.  Put a larger drill in the chuck, indicate it, and check for yourself.  If its very much even a relatively cheap replacement is likely to be better.  IIRC I paid $30-$40 for my replacement chuck and run out was reduced by a very substantial amount.

I have a few dial indicators in various configurations, I plan on checking runout this weekend.  I can see tramming an X-Y table as I can chuck up a dial in the drill and run the table, how would I go about tramming the built in table? Do you have any recommendations for a good vice?
As far as the jackshaft setup, are there any production models or should I look to fabricate one? I've seen a few fabricated ones that are basically an aluminum housing bolted to the side of the drill housing with a handwheel on a shaft with a worm gear at the other end for "fine" Z adjustments.

To check head to table put indicator in spindle and swing it. On a bridgeport typically done with a set of 123 blocks to check head is 90 degrees.
Running the table would not check your head (spindle).

When i got a cheap floor stand drill press off a truck sale (it was only a few $ more than the bench top one) I grabbed a cross slide vise with V notches in one jaw to hold round stock.  between that and the rotating tilting table I have been pretty happy with what i can do with it.  worst down side is the depth stop was stupid useless but dang was it cheap and after 25 years of abuse it is still running and only just replaced the belts.  And back then money was tighter than now.  Currently trying to justify a small metal lath and mill.  Just hope I have enough time left to learn how to use them.  at 69, $5k for the pair and some basic tools and accessories is a pretty do-able.  Go figure, retired and more free cash, just less time...

Best thing you can do for your drill press:

- Good keyless chuck with low TIR.
- Dedicated HSS drill bits that you don't share with your hand drills.

I've got an XY table on one of my drill presses and I can't remember the last time I used it for anything.  The argument for fine positioning is reasonable in theory but useless in practice.

Save your money for a real milling machine.

They run a lot smoother with good quality Gates belts.

Great suggestions so far! I knew you guys would deliver
Keep em coming, I'll post pics this weekend

Regarding your question about tramming the fixed table:

Most have a pivot and bolt for setting x-axis tilt. Adjust y-axis tilt by shimming at 12:00 and 6:00 on the table pivot. You can use shim stock or even aluminum foil.

This ....

Second this.  If you don't ever plan to buy a milling machine, then do what you have to do to get the drill press "better"  but if your going to a mill eventually, best to put your time and effort into that.  I've never found a X Y vise worth having for a price I'd pay.  I have 2 sitting under my "older than me" delta drill press I should sell to a sucker.  

Even a shitty mini-mill is a far better milling machine/precision drill than most sub $400 drill presses.  

Ive got the same wen OP has.  Mine's going on 6 or 7 years.  The chuck runout is under 0.005" still.  I personally wouldnt spend a dime upgrading it.  At least, not until you need it.

The flippy handle on the lock screw is the only part that's broke on mine.  I banged it while moving and the plastic turd broke off.  I epoxied it and its held up since then.  You could maybe replace it with a metal one.

Save your pesos for a mill.  The drill press doesn't need anything.

I've got a 40 taper knee mill with a DRO and I still use my big HF drill press (which I bought after I got the mill!).

FWIW, an X/Y table was mentioned, don’t use endmills in a drill chuck, they aren’t designed for side loads.  

I know you said drilling but the temptation will be there.

Oh I hear ya,  I have a little machine shop mini-mill, an R8 Bridgeport and an old delta drill press.  I'd use the drill press a lot more for quick jobs if it wasn't 3 phase.  Often I just use the mini-mill as it seems easier with less overhead.  I doubt turning on the phase converter for a minute here and there adds up to much, it just doesn't make sense for small quick drilling ops.

VFD would fix you up pretty good.  They're cheap enough that I've considered converting my single phase machines (and not for speed control purposes.)

I've heard good things about the LMS mini mill. I'm looking at that or the similar sized Sieg. I saw some guys mention elsewhere that the HF mini mill "isn't all that bad" but I have my doubts

I bought the LMS 3900 knowing I would eventually buy a Bridgeport or similar.  Figured I'd either sell the LMS or convert it to CNC.  But it's is still quite handy to have.  It's easier for some small jobs than the Bridgeport.  I have no regrets buying it.  But everyone has a different story of their road traveled.

Came to post just that!  The best thing you can do for a drill press is learn how to accurately layout and spot holes.  A good square, pencil (or scribe and dykem), center punch, and spotting drill will go a looooong way here.  As in +/-0.005" is doable with some patience and +/- 1/64" should be cake.  I prefer rules with 5r graduations, they just work.  Same combo square is fine for table adjustment.  Sweeping it with an indicator is lipstick on a pig.

Going to go against the grain here and say that chuck TIR, within reason, is basically moot.  Drilled hole accuracy comes from spotting and the point's grind.  Drills are not ground for, nor are they stiff enough, to affect location.  (We're obviously not talking the kinds of drills you'd put in a Mazak or Okuma, that's a different ball game)

Got her all set up and tested out on some wood and aluminum blocks. Can't believe how well it drills! The adjustable speed is spot on... used some guides I found online for speeds/type of material and it was like butter.

Runout at the chuck is just a hair over .005" out of the box without me fussing with anything. I think I'm gunna splurge on a keyless chuck and someone had mentioned a Gates belt regardless, mainly because the key can get to be a PITA and there's a tiny vibration I'm hoping to cure.

All I've done adjustment-wise was clean up a TON of cosmoline/grease/whatever goo China coats their shit in,  blue loctited some stuff, and checked the table square (it was surprisingly fine without much fuss)

Thanks for all the pointers guys! I'll post some project pics once I get rolling

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Wasn't planning on pulling the trigger JUST yet, but got a deal on a HF mini mill that I couldn't pass up

Initial unboxing (grease, grease, and more grease)

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Planning to go wild over at LMS and buy the air spring kit, belt conversion etc and go over it top to bottom
Shall keep this thread going with my progress

Cleaning everything up, polishing the gibs (man were those rough)

First mod is going to be the LMS air spring kit:

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More to follow.... spare time is limited lately ugh

Add a little rigidity and adjustments to the colum.  I was surprised how well it helped with chatter.  And DRO's.  Sure they will tell you they aren't necessary.  Once you have them, you'll regret believing you wouldn't want them.  

My Mini-mill Thread some of the links might be stale.  I don't know everything, but I'm happy to help if I can.

Many years ago, after I left working in machine shops, and got an associate degree, moved into industrial sales, I was feeling lost without a mill at my disposal.
Had picked up a flea market bench mount drill press (new), and then a few years later an X-Y table for it.
Was OK for positioning hole positions, but was nearly impossible for milling, too much chatter due to flex.

The column was not much more than a 80mm piece of cast iron pipe, so I cleaned the ID, went to one of my customers, and got a damaged piece of 2.5" Cat hydraulic cylinder rod the length of the column, and a half gallon of fiberglass resin.
The cylinder rod was just big enough to slide down inside the column, with about 1/4" to spare.
After plugging the bottom, poured a little resin into the column, slid the rod down in after, and finished filling the rest of the space up to the top.

And also addressed the rather loose lower spindle bearing (was just a cheap ball bearing), with roller bearing, and purchase some end mill holders that hit the #2 Morse taper in the spindle.
Small end mills could be used in the drill chuck directly, but above 3/8" it had to come out, and use a end mill holder.

It held up fine, wasn't perfect, still had to take light cuts, but I did a lot of milling jobs on it until I found an actual milling machine.
Sold the X-Y table for what I paid for it, but still have that drill press.

The only down side, was it nearly doubled the weight of the drill press

Remember, the world is what you make of it...

Sooo.... How difficult would it be for someone to turn me an oddly threaded lock nut?  Whoever installed this in Chyyyynnaa must've had their Wheaties that morning...
Tried my best to get it off to no avail, finally put some relief cuts in and found our culprit: they'd galled the threads on the spindle and they were now a part of the lock ring

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I have a new spindle (and bearings) on the way from HF as their customer service is actually really good (so far)... However, that lock ring is out of stock everywhere and could be up to 2 months coming direct from China.
Even found one on ebay, but alas, also coming from Big Red.  

SO, if anyone has the ability to turn one of these M27-1.5 LEFT HAND lock nuts, IM me


In other news, got my one-piece keyless chuck in from LMS!

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Next order of business would be tramming.

Use a dial indicator to set fore/aft and side/side. You can shim between the base/column pivot at 12:00/6:00 to tram fore/aft.

In 20 years I’ve never tilted my column. I just keep it trammed vertically. Expect to find it way off when you check it the first time.

Accessories/tooling recommendations:
Machinist’s vice
Hold down set
Paralells set
Collet set
1-piece draw-bar
Spare arbor with a small keyed precision chuck for small drills
End mills
Set of countersink spot drills