I have one rifle with a CMC trigger. Everything else uses mil-spec triggers.

My game guns and precision guns get SD-E. All others are usually built with BCM LPK so the BCM PNT is what they have. It reliable and I can run it pretty fast.

got a JP trigger with the roller trigger

It's nice.

Milspec on my work rifle.  The rest are Geissle and one is a RRA NM that I had left over.

A great barrel is the heart of a rifle.  Trigger is its soul. A two-stage enhanced trigger is a thing of beauty.

I prefer the MBT2S, with the SSA a close second.

All upgraded at least that I use...

SD-C
SD-E
MBT2-3
Hi Speed Match DMR

I have the SD-E for the same use, then an SSA, SSA-E, and some other Geissele for the plinkers. Super Precision all the things

I changed out all of my AR type rifle trigger groups to Geissele SSA-E trigger groups.

I keep entire LPK's with mil spec triggers.

For my competition guns I use 2 stage triggers from several manufacturers.

#geisseleallthethings

This, up to 4 now. I have one Geissele SSA-E and a couple of QMS/ACT from ALG.

I'd buy aeros lpk from Schuyler for $19 and a QMS from AIM.

I have enough extra grip screws and a2 grips laying around.

come on man, Geissele's banner is right at the top of the forum.

Don't fall into the MBT hype.

Geissele and ALG is where its at

I have a few of these, and for the $, they suit my needs very well.  Especially when they turn up on sale for $80, like now at Primary Arms.

My meager collection of ARs(3) all wear Geissele triggers.

I did purchase an MBT, but gifted it to a friend at work. He's thrilled with it.

ALG ACT triggers.

Max I shoot out to, really, is 140 yards.  Not sure why I'd spend more to shoot that distance.

Bring back $15 Stag LPKs,... And I'll throw an MBT in it

I have a God Bless Texas SSAE but am considering selling it to fund two or four MBTs

I do my own for about 25 cents in parts and 45 minutes of time.

First remove the grip and safety selector. You'll need to do some work on the top of the rear of the trigger to make it fit once we start making changes with the set screws.

1. Finish threading the grip screw hole, if needed. (1/4 x 28 tap)

2. Drill and tap a hole in the receiver below where the front of the trigger bar will contact if a screw is threaded into it.  Mine I drill right at 3/10" from the front of the trigger opening in the lower to the center of the hole. Pre drill an 1/8" hole before hitting it with the 1/4" bit.

3. Thread a 1/4x28 set screw into the grip screw as well as the new hole in the lower in front of the trigger opening hole. (Put it in from the bottom so the Allen head is exposed inside the trigger guard)

4. Start turning the screw in the front of the trigger until it won't drop the hammer, and then back it off just a touch until you can feel no over travel once it drops the hammer. If you want to give it some insurance, back it off another 1/8 turn. Drip a bit of loctite on the threads of the screw after you remove the trigger.

5. Start threading the set screw in the grip to pre load the trigger. You need to let it have it enough movement to let the sear catch the hammer once the trigger is released, so don't go too far. You'll likely thread it in to the point it drops the hammer, so be sure to keep a hand on the hammer to not damage the lower.

6. Once you're happy with the over travel and pre load settings, look into the safety selector through hole and notice the rear of the trigger is in the path. You now have to take out the trigger and grind a smidge off the tail off the trigger so the safety can be engaged. While the trigger is out, put a drop of loctite on the exposed threads of the set screw. This will likely take a couple test fits, and if you go too far the safety WILL NOT keep the hammer from dropping. The only fix then is a new trigger. They're cheap, sure, but have a spare. Just go slow with the grinder and you won't screw up.

7. Grind off the tail of the hammer to lighten it up some. This will allow the use of lighter springs, or you can cut a leg off the hammer spring.

8. Bend up the trigger spring legs a bit to lighten up the pull, but don't go crazy because you need some spring pressure  to overcome the resistance in the sear as it releases the hook on the hammer.

9. Reassemble everything and enjoy your 1/8" of trigger travel and around 4 lb trigger pull.

I'm part of the upgraded trigger master race

G Hi Speed is my favorite.

#Geisseleallthethings

Geissele for life.

I was happy with giving my AR triggers a polishing job and modifying the spring for the longest time. One day I bought an enhanced trigger, now all ARs have an enhanced trigger.

I've purchased a couple RRA 2-stage triggers for a couple of the kids' rifles, tried a guy's gieselle, along with a couple others that I can't remember. Bang for the buck (since I'm poor), though, working on my own has given me pretty good results. It's not hard to do, but does take some time and attention to detail.

Is that you Bill?

I stayed with milspec triggers for a long time until I picked up an MBT during the original offering. Biggest improvement I’ve been able to make to any of my ar15s. Now they all have either MBRs or Geissles. I like the Geissles better but the best bang for the buck is the MBT.

I don't think having a reliable and good aftermarket trigger on a rifle is all that much of a crutch.

Regardless of that, your logic is interesting. "I'm planning for the doubly rare event that I have to use a rifle defensively, and it is someone else's. Therefore, I will intentionally avoid optimizing my own defensive rifle, out of a misplaced fear that I somehow will be unable to apply the fundamentals of marksmanship on a stock trigger."  The governmental agencies that use Geissele SSF on some of their weapons would be interested to know that their users are at risk of ineptitude if given a regular rack-grade rifle from an armory.

Disclosure: I have rifles with stock triggers, ADCO-hardened RRA 2 stage, and Geisseles including S3G, SSA, and SSF.

How are they compared to milspec?  Can you clarify?