User Panel
You can get custom spray paint mixed up to match. If you just want a 50 foot paint job it works pretty good if you do some decent prep work.
Or rattle can that bitch camo |
|
Good news is it isn't through the primer yet so there's no rust yet. Will also save on prep.
Since you just want a cover up and nothing great, I would do one panel at a time since it is the first painting you have done. Random orbit sand the entire surface back smooth. Be careful not to go through the primer and do the edges by hand. Whatever coating you use read the directions for which grit to use. Cheapest is just hit it with a single stage urethane color matching what you have. Single stage is the final coat, no clear required. If you sand to metal you need to prime it. You do not have to take all the paint or clear off, it just needs to be smooth, sanded to the right grit, and stable. Next cheapest is hit the first coat with an epoxy primer, then hit it with the single stage color. The primer will help blend that gray primer and dark blue so it isn't as splotchy. Last would be epoxy primer, 2 stage of color and clear. Eastwood.com for.generic stuff or any local paint place can help you with mixing paint for your car color code. I'm a nobody that's only painted 1 vehicle, and that's what I learned. I did a 2 stage. So i have 0 experince with a single. My truck came out pretty good. You will need a decent compressor and paint gun. The harbor freight ones are ok for primer but I could never get them to have an even spray, so I bought a couple hundred $ gun that worked like magic. |
|
It’s got little rust spots developing on the roof, and bare metal on the trunk, which is motivating me to take action.
Is there a dark gray or charcoal primer I can start with? I’m guessing Autozone is not the place to buy what I need. |
|
Quoted: It’s got little rust spots developing on the roof, and bare metal on the trunk, which is motivating me to take action. Is there a dark gray or charcoal primer I can start with? I’m guessing Autozone is not the place to buy what I need. View Quote https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-gray-epoxy-primers.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwidSWBhDdARIsAIoTVb2hMXuGuejGl1fuhOMXjtEN91thO7yXFICvuDXNKFQCvNwly7FvxB0aAhAyEALw_wcB&wickedid=602838622301&wickedsource=google&wv=3.1 |
|
This guy makes it look easier than it probably is.
How to Repair Clear Coat Fix 100% all types Edit - if it were me I might try washing and then using a rubbing compound on a DA orbital. See how it looks and if it was acceptable clay bar it and throw on some wax and call it good. |
|
The clearcoat on that has completely failed.
There is no wax/sealer/buffing/polish that you can do that will repair it. The only thing to do is sand it down and repaint. If you don't care that much, just sand the rust spots off, prime, and shoot it with a spray bomb. That'll at least keep the rust down. |
|
thanks, but don't I have to get everything down to bare metal first before using that primer? I need something that will be effective on small spots of bare metal and over the remaining paint. |
|
Quoted: The clearcoat on that has completely failed. There is no wax/sealer/buffing/polish that you can do that will repair it. The only thing to do is sand it down and repaint. If you don't care that much, just sand the rust spots off, prime, and shoot it with a spray bomb. That'll at least keep the rust down. View Quote RATS Sand it all down to bare metal? or just scuff the existing paint and sand out the rust speckles? What's a "spray bomb"? Rattle can car paint? |
|
Quoted: The below car was painted with 1 gallon of white Rustoleum sprayed out of Harbor Freight's cheapest gun powered by an undersized 6-gallon Porter Cable pancake compressor. It was applied with no painting experience over two previous brushed-on paint jobs. Body prep consisted of banging out the worst dents with a hammer, some half-hearted Bondo (which was quickly abandoned), and a quick desultory sanding. The stripes were rattle canned. Decals and numbers are vinyl. It looks better than OP's current car does from 50' away at 50 mph. I say go for it. https://i.imgur.com/n8FqIeK.jpg View Quote I like this, thank you. didn't I see a thread earlier this year about using tractor paint on a car? |
|
There's a youtube out there where a dude used some kind of fine, foam paint roller to do a car. It was beer-goggle beautiful...really it wasn't terrible, I've seen worse spray jobs.
|
|
Quoted: RATS Sand it all down to bare metal? or just scuff the existing paint and sand out the rust speckles? What's a "spray bomb"? Rattle can car paint? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: The clearcoat on that has completely failed. There is no wax/sealer/buffing/polish that you can do that will repair it. The only thing to do is sand it down and repaint. If you don't care that much, just sand the rust spots off, prime, and shoot it with a spray bomb. That'll at least keep the rust down. RATS Sand it all down to bare metal? or just scuff the existing paint and sand out the rust speckles? What's a "spray bomb"? Rattle can car paint? No you don't need to go to bare metal other than where the rust is. Just get the loose stuff off and smooth it out. It'll need some bite for primer and then some sanding prior to color. Spraybombing just refers to anything out of a spray can. Can be anything from automotive base/clear to some rustoleum. Just depends on the level of effort you want to put in. Doing all the horizontal surfaces might be worth trying out your hand at a spray gun though. |
|
Sand out the rust, rattle can it to protect the steel, then apply vinyl wrap.
You'd probably spend >$500 just on decent paint, and you're not going to get good results without experience and a lot of expensive equipment. |
|
I've been told to do a wrap, but know nothing about them. how long do they last?
|
|
Quoted: I like this, thank you. didn't I see a thread earlier this year about using tractor paint on a car? View Quote The first two paint jobs which were applied with brushes were tractor paint from Tractor Supply. We mixed red and blue to make two different shades of purple the first time, and painted it yellow later. |
|
I needed to replace the fender and bumper cover on my 2008 Focus, and I used The Auto Paint Depot.
The paint comes premixed, all you have to do is shoot it. The clear has to have an activator added to it. Had I wanted, I could have color sanded several more grits, and buffed it to a higher shine, but I wanted the new panels to match the existing ones. |
|
I forgot to add. We thinned the Rustoleum before spraying it. I can't remember if we used hardener.
|
|
90% of car-painting is PREP-WORK.
90% of the quality of the outcome is determined by how much you PAY for the actual paint. 100% of whether a home-painted car looks decent depends on a dust-free, and insect-free, area during application of the paint. As a sidebar, you can apply QUALITY paint with a ROLLER AND BRUSH and get good results if you adhere to the rules stated above. For the car in question, the labor investment to do a GOOD JOB is questionable. I would probably give that car a lick and a promise of prep, then let MAACO gun it. |
|
So I'll sand and then aerosol can primer it to start.
Is this an appropriate product? black high build primer |
|
Quoted: I've been told to do a wrap, but know nothing about them. how long do they last? View Quote |
|
Quoted: So I'll sand and then aerosol can primer it to start. Is this an appropriate product? black high build primer View Quote You'll be happier with spraying that epoxy primer. It's a good sealer as well and will keep the color on top pretty even shade. If a primer says high build it is for filling defects, very very small ones, and very lightly wet sanding the primer absolutely smooth before a top coat. You don't need to do that. You do not take it to bare metal if the base paint and primer is still good. I would sand most of the clear off as it's all aged and practically gone anyways. The solvents in the urethane or epoxy primer and paint actually melt together when you spray them on each other. That's why you can basically just scotchbrite scuff a vehicle and spray it. |
|
Anything out of a spray can is not going to seal out moisture properly and it will start rusting again. A quality epoxy primer with a UV additive is what you seek. Southern Polyurethanes Inc. is what I used as base primers and clear coat on my Mustang. BTW, red car and all paint and body materials set me back $3600 and I provided the labor.
FWIW, I use to do this for a living. And don’t skimp on safety gear like a respirator. This shit will kill you. |
|
A buffer isn't going to fix that. Clear coat is gone. You need a paint job. You can DIY that with a rattle can, or air compressor and spray gun and a lot of prep work.
ETA: Beat like a mule. Just up. |
|
As somebody that painted way too many aircraft and a few cars...
The clearcoat is gone, the paint is cracked and most likely the primer is cracked as well. You need to sand down all the way until the hairline cracks are gone. Some places it's just a little topcoat, others you go to the bare metal. The entire panel needs to be sanded to the same paint coat. If you just sand away the bad part of the clearcoat, the new paint will show the different levels and coats of paint. Not something you get done with a sanding block. You need something electrical. Rotary maybe. If you don't get all the cracks and rough areas out, the new paint will show all the defects. TYCOM |
|
thanks, I used an electric palm sander on the roof yesterday, got all the clearcoat off and sanded the spot rust areas down to the bare metal. I masked off the roof and started to spray the primer, but I waited too long to start and the sun rose to high. I ran out of shade to paint in and the breeze kicked up, blowing the spray around. I got the bare metal parts covered before I had to quit.
I scouted around my neighborhood and found a gas station that had closed down. It has an empty car wash enclosure that I think will work well for a painting spot. I may try it this afternoon. |
|
covers fixing dents, but the rest applies to DIY for your situation. It will be some work for ya
How to Repair and Remove Dents from your Car (DIY) |
|
If I screw it up, I can always take it to Maaco.
I gotta try it myself first, though. Paying thousands of dollars for a car paint job hurts too much. |
|
I was planning to do it with foam brushes, but discovered HVLP paint guns.
Would this thing work for painting a car? https://smile.amazon.com/HomeRight-C800971-Painter-Painting-Projects/dp/B071X9FZ7R |
|
Don't use foam brushes, or rollers, it will leave texture.
Go to harbor freight and buy a cheap spray setup. The amazon one you linked to could work, but its not made for spraying cars. Gravity fed is what you should get. https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-spray-guns.html?category=2029¤t=1 |
|
the hiccup is not the gun, but the compressor to run it. Where shall I get that?
I know absolutely nothing about them except that they push air really fast. Will this work? 3 gallon at HF |
|
Too late, but..
Soak a rag in WD40. Rub over all the busted clear coat. It will It will even everything out and conceal. It will look sort of like a matte finish. Lasts a week or 2. |
|
well, the hood is untouched, and where the clearcoat is a big mess...
|
|
|
Quoted: the hiccup is not the gun, but the compressor to run it. Where shall I get that? I know absolutely nothing about them except that they push air really fast. Will this work? 3 gallon at HF View Quote if you haven't purchased a gun yet I'd suggest an HVLP one. I picked up our version of a harbour freight one and it's worked great the couple of times I've used it. I'm no painter by any stretch of the imagination but I did fry a coleman compressor motor..twice. |
|
Quoted: the hiccup is not the gun, but the compressor to run it. Where shall I get that? I know absolutely nothing about them except that they push air really fast. Will this work? 3 gallon at HF View Quote There's one at HF with a 20 or so gallon tank, get that one. Don't get oil less if you can help it. |
|
Quoted: Paint purchased, Massey Furgeson gray $40 for the paint, $20 for the hardener, $15 for the thinner https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/5205/1msfawat-2470643.jpg View Quote Fun, will be interesting to see how it turns out. |
|
This will be highly informative or hilarious I predict.
If OP does well at doing this he needs to do this as a side hustle. |
|
i need to do the same to my old car. I am watching and taking notes. Thanks OP!
|
|
I am going the path of least resistance, expense, and experience first. That means hand painting with wide foam brushes.
If I jack it up, I can always buy a compressor and a sprayer, or take it back to Maaco. By sanding down and primering the roof and trunk deck where the bare metal was, I've already cut $1000 off of the Maaco price, the "repair". I spent $30 on supplies to do that. |
|
Quoted: I am going the path of least resistance, expense, and experience first. That means hand painting with wide foam brushes. If I jack it up, I can always buy a compressor and a sprayer, or take it back to Maaco. By sanding down and primering the roof and trunk deck where the bare metal was, I've already cut $1000 off of the Maaco price, the "repair". I spent $30 on supplies to do that. View Quote Roll On Car Paint Job - Part 1 (Porsche + Tractor Paint) |
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.