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Posted: 9/6/2022 8:30:06 PM EDT
I've been wanting an 8" jointer and my buddy found this one on Facebook. The guy thought it was a g1018 but I can't find a model number on it anywhere. It needs cleaned up but it works great. Where would be the best place to order a helical head for it?
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[Last Edit: 1Andy2]
[#1]
https://mywoodcutters.com/
They have both the luxcut and shelix. Been thinking about a helical for my jointer. I put a shelix on my grizzley 15" thickness planer and man... I will never do straight knives on a planer again. My only gripe was the individual carbide inserts were NOT properly set. Left streaks on the boards. I took all 75 out and reseated them (with a tiny bit of anti-seize to avoid potential future issues when I finally turn them). Worked like a charm after that. But that was tedious. |
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Never confuse faith that you will prevail in the end—which you can never afford to lose—with the discipline to confront the most brutal facts of your current reality, whatever they might be. - Adm James Stockdale
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[#2]
Probably the most useless machine in a cabinet shop also one of the most dangerous. Clean it up and sell it if you can find a buyer.
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Democrats are just criminals trying to disarm their intended victims.
"When your Dead you don't know your Dead. All the pain is felt by others. The same thing happens when you're stupid." |
[#3]
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Never confuse faith that you will prevail in the end—which you can never afford to lose—with the discipline to confront the most brutal facts of your current reality, whatever they might be. - Adm James Stockdale
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[#4]
Originally Posted By mtPockets: Probably the most useless machine in a cabinet shop also one of the most dangerous. Clean it up and sell it if you can find a buyer. View Quote I am a beginner, and admittedly don't know much but, I'm not building cabinets. I am working with rough cut, sawmill wood. If there is a better way to get it flat and straight, I'm always eager to learn. |
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[#5]
Originally Posted By 1Andy2: https://mywoodcutters.com/ They have both the luxcut and shelix. Been thinking about a helical for my jointer. I put a shelix on my grizzley 15" thickness planer and man... I will never do straight knives on a planer again. My only gripe was the individual carbide inserts were NOT properly set. Left streaks on the boards. I took all 75 out and reseated them (with a tiny bit of anti-seize to avoid potential future issues when I finally turn them). Worked like a charm after that. But that was tedious. View Quote Thanks, I will probably order from them after I verify a couple of measurements. Looks like a long wait time for the shelix, but I'm not in a hurry. I cleaned it up, sanded and waxed the table and squared up the fence and it works well enough for now. I'll be trying it out on some 8/4 cedar for a table top soon. |
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[#6]
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[#7]
Originally Posted By mtPockets: Probably the most useless machine in a cabinet shop also one of the most dangerous. Clean it up and sell it if you can find a buyer. View Quote Probably dumbest post I’ve read today. If your in a commercial who buys pre sized s4s lumber then you would still only be a little stupid. |
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[Last Edit: Echd]
[#8]
I have a Sheartak head in my planer that works as well as the Shelix in my jointer but cost a little less. Just another idea. Ships from Canada.
Resetting jointer blades fucking SUCKS and a helical head is IMO a must have. |
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[#9]
Originally Posted By mtPockets: Probably the most useless machine in a cabinet shop also one of the most dangerous. Clean it up and sell it if you can find a buyer. View Quote Well cabinet shops are probably buying dimensioned and already jointed lumber. Or working largely with plywood. So OP, just ignore the ignorant and worthless post. Tables saws are really probably the most accident occurring power tool, and the biggest fault to accident is what's not working between your ears. If you're too stupid to use power tools safely, don't start woodworking, or just be one of those troglodytes that use only hand tools, and don't understand that pros prior to the 20th century used indentured servants to do all the grunt work like dimensioning and jointing boards. |
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[Last Edit: mtPockets]
[#10]
When I was in the biz I bought 4qtr and 8qtr S2S and would use a dedicated straight edge on a table saw. For face frame material we cut widths 1/8 over and use a surface planer or wide belt drum sander to final dimension.
Sorry if you think I'm dumb. I've been a millman doing custom cabinets both commercial and residential along with architectural millwork for 18 years. Left the the biz about 15 years ago and forgotten more than most will ever know. LOL Attached File heres kind of how I use to straight edge but never bothered using hold downs. How to Cut a Straight Edge on Crooked Boards |
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Democrats are just criminals trying to disarm their intended victims.
"When your Dead you don't know your Dead. All the pain is felt by others. The same thing happens when you're stupid." |
[#11]
Originally Posted By mtPockets: When I was in the biz I bought 4qtr and 8qtr S2S and would use a dedicated straight edge on a table saw. For face frame material we cut widths 1/8 over and use a surface planer or wide belt drum sander to final dimension. Sorry if you think I'm dumb. I've been a millman doing custom cabinets both commercial and residential along with architectural millwork for 18 years. Left the the biz about 15 years ago and forgotten more than most will ever know. LOL https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/402271/Clipboard01_jpg-2522064.JPG heres kind of how I use to straight edge but never bothered using hold downs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-693rYQITM0 View Quote Yes, because all of us who have a garage woodshop have the money and space for a $20,000 wide belt sander, $5,000 for a dedicated straight line rip saw, and whatever else a production shop would use with a few thousand sq. ft. of floor space to accommodate them. Apparently the one thing you've definitely forgotten is common sense. Attached File |
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[#12]
Originally Posted By mtPockets: When I was in the biz I bought 4qtr and 8qtr S2S and would use a dedicated straight edge on a table saw. For face frame material we cut widths 1/8 over and use a surface planer or wide belt drum sander to final dimension. Sorry if you think I'm dumb. I've been a millman doing custom cabinets both commercial and residential along with architectural millwork for 18 years. Left the the biz about 15 years ago and forgotten more than most will ever know. LOL https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/402271/Clipboard01_jpg-2522064.JPG heres kind of how I use to straight edge but never bothered using hold downs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-693rYQITM0 View Quote And none of that will leave you with a board that is perfectly straight and flat for glue ups and lamentations. |
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[Last Edit: Echd]
[#13]
Originally Posted By mtPockets: When I was in the biz I bought 4qtr and 8qtr S2S and would use a dedicated straight edge on a table saw. For face frame material we cut widths 1/8 over and use a surface planer or wide belt drum sander to final dimension. Sorry if you think I'm dumb. I've been a millman doing custom cabinets both commercial and residential along with architectural millwork for 18 years. Left the the biz about 15 years ago and forgotten more than most will ever know. LOL https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/402271/Clipboard01_jpg-2522064.JPG heres kind of how I use to straight edge but never bothered using hold downs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-693rYQITM0 View Quote I've jointed plenty of boards with a straight edge but this is such a dumb post. This is a board chiefly focusing on hobby woodworking and the straight edge method is unusable with badly cupped or twisted wood, doesn't flatten the face, and your industrial sized machines have essentially zero relevance to the average poster here, especially the OP. Jointing with a straight edge isn't really all that safe either other than s2s or better. Hobbyist sized drum sanders are more trouble than they're worth a lot of the time and most people just need to put two flat faces on a piece of wood, so you either spend all day hand planing a handful of board faces and checking them with a straight edge and winding sticks or plane them so many times that you lose 30% of their volume as they approach something approximating flatness. Or keep a ten foot long planer sled around. A small jointer is simply the only realistic option for a hobbyist who doesn't want to spend an entire day hand planing to get a flat face. Edges, sure, plenty of ways to do that. But a jointer is very important to most people who aren't running a cabinet shop loaded with high end machines. |
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[#14]
All right I forgot who I'm dealing with here. Just be careful making those breadboards.
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Democrats are just criminals trying to disarm their intended victims.
"When your Dead you don't know your Dead. All the pain is felt by others. The same thing happens when you're stupid." |
[Last Edit: BFskinner]
[#15]
It is a Grizzly jointer, you could always just buy a head from Grizzly.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-8-helical-cutterhead-for-jointers/t27697 This is the one I have on my 8" long bed jointer and it works great. |
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It’s better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than open it and remove all doubt.
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[#16]
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[#17]
Well this thread got purse swingy?
I wish people would approach technical threads with a mind to teach and learn. Not brag about what they know. Or think they know. |
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Never confuse faith that you will prevail in the end—which you can never afford to lose—with the discipline to confront the most brutal facts of your current reality, whatever they might be. - Adm James Stockdale
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[#18]
Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Well this thread got purse swingy? I wish people would approach technical threads with a mind to teach and learn. Not brag about what they know. Or think they know. View Quote Not the way I intended for this to go, but thanks to those with helpful info. I'm probably going to order the shelix head from woodcutters but I'm a little confused. Checking the measurements on the website, my jointer is a US made model. But the tag on the front says made in Taiwan. I tried calling today and just got a recording. I'll try again tomorrow. |
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[#19]
Originally Posted By EBR-Okie: Not the way I intended for this to go, but thanks to those with helpful info. I'm probably going to order the shelix head from woodcutters but I'm a little confused. Checking the measurements on the website, my jointer is a US made model. But the tag on the front says made in Taiwan. I tried calling today and just got a recording. I'll try again tomorrow. View Quote Shelix Heads |
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[#20]
That’s going to be an older model. I would be cautious of ordering a new head without first removing and measuring the old head
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[#21]
Originally Posted By Quicky06: That’s going to be an older model. I would be cautious of ordering a new head without first removing and measuring the old head View Quote That is exactly what I did. There are four different heads for that model due to changes in manufacturing over the years. I got it sorted out and ordered the shelix head. Now the wait begins. |
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[Last Edit: Jerret_S]
[#22]
Great pick up, ignore that joker saying a jointer is worthless. It is the most used tool in my wood shop beside the table saw.
I think will buy a helical head for my Grizzly G0855 8" jointer but Shelix doesn't carry one for this model. There is a Lux Cut brand for the same price that looks good. Websiye lools almost exactly like the shelix one. Any review on those? Grizzly also sells one for the same price. My father was a wood pattern maker most of his life and he saw way more fingers taken off by a jointer than a tablesaw with even all other machines combined. |
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[#23]
Originally Posted By Jerret_S: Great pick up, ignore that joker saying a jointer is worthless. It is the most used tool in my wood shop beside the table saw. I think will buy a helical head for my Grizzly G0855 8" jointer but Shelix doesn't carry one for this model. There is a Lux Cut brand for the same price that looks good. Websiye lools almost exactly like the shelix one. Any review on those? Grizzly also sells one for the same price. My father was a wood pattern maker most of his life and he saw way more fingers taken off by a jointer than a tablesaw with even all other machines combined. View Quote I got lucky. Their website said it could take twelve weeks to get my helical head depending on whether it had to be manufactured upon order. Got an email the next day saying that they had one in stock and it would be assembled and balanced and ready to ship in two or three weeks. I try to be very safety conscious about all power tools, but things like jointers and routers get extra respect. Fingers or anything else that gets taken off by them aren't getting reattached. |
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[#24]
Awesome grab OP. Bit jelly myself. Next big purchase will be to replace my 6” jointer.
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Benefactor NRA Member
Team Ranstad TIBTLS |
[#25]
Originally Posted By Jerret_S: My father was a wood pattern maker most of his life and he saw way more fingers taken off by a jointer than a tablesaw with even all other machines combined. View Quote I will never forget when I was about 10 years old my dad came into the house from the garage with his hand wrapped in a bloody towel. The old pre-guard jointer he was using bit his index finger and tore out a pretty decent chunk of the pad. We all spent that evening in the ER while they patched it together. It really cemented my respect for tools with quickly spinning sharp or pointy bits. |
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It’s better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than open it and remove all doubt.
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[#26]
The big brown truck came through for me today.
Attached File It's almost too pretty for the old jointer. Attached File I ran a piece of rough cut cedar on it to try it out and was really impressed. It was smooth as glass and no chip out. |
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[#27]
Nice!! Congratulations, and enjoy safely in good health!
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[Last Edit: BFskinner]
[#28]
Very nice. Put the guard back on now
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It’s better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than open it and remove all doubt.
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