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Posted: 8/30/2019 5:27:00 PM EDT
[#1]
Guys make a living on youtube buying project cars from Copart and fixing them.
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Posted: 8/30/2019 5:29:34 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Guys make a living on youtube buying project cars from Copart and fixing them. Picked up an 06' Audi last year for $500 from a local guy. Put a new valve in the cylinder head, Gave it a tune up, and sold it for $4,000. If you know how to turn wrenches....it's an easy way to make some money. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 5:39:09 PM EDT
[#3]
Atleast in my state a large majority of the vehicles they have required you to have a license to sell vehicles (salvage titles etc) of some sort. They are definitely a bargain and if you know what you’re looking for some are a great bargain.
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Posted: 8/30/2019 5:47:11 PM EDT
[#4]
I watch a bunch of youtube channels of people who do it. One thing I have learned is to NEVER buy a Copart vehicle that is listed by a private party or a non insurance company.
There are countless videos of people who bought Copart vehicles listed by entities other than insurance companies with MAJOR damage (not noted) covered up, Teslas with the batteries removed, disabling the airbag lights or putting relays in place of the bags so it looks like they are there, when they are gone, putting bondo with some spray paint on severe frame damage without actually fixing it, putting a different hood on a severely damaged car and zip tying it down so you wont see the real damage, you name it... |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 5:49:55 PM EDT
[#5]
Need a dealer license. You can take the car for parts and that's the end of it.
If you want to drive it again, you need to get it recertified for use on your road. This varies for salvage cars from state to state. There are definitely deals to be had if you are patient and know what to look for. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 5:51:40 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Need a dealer license. You can take the car for parts and that's the end of it. If you want to drive it again, you need to get it recertified for use on your road. This varies for salvage cars from state to state. There are definitely deals to be had if you are patient and know what to look for. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 5:54:22 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Need a dealer license. You can take the car for parts and that's the end of it. If you want to drive it again, you need to get it recertified for use on your road. This varies for salvage cars from state to state. There are definitely deals to be had if you are patient and know what to look for. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 5:55:57 PM EDT
[#8]
2020 F-150 SuperCrew 5.0L =MasterRace, Bro. Just make sure it’s $50,000+.
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:01:11 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I watch a bunch of youtube channels of people who do it. One thing I have learned is to NEVER buy a Copart vehicle that is listed by a private party or a non insurance company. There are countless videos of people who bought Copart vehicles listed by entities other than insurance companies with MAJOR damage (not noted) covered up, Teslas with the batteries removed, putting bondo with some spray paint on severe frame damage without actually fixing it, putting a different hood on a severely damaged car and zip tying it down so you wont see the real damage, you name it... |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:10:13 PM EDT
[#10]
Depending on you state you made need a broker or dealer friend to place the bid for you as made need a license to buy a salvaged car. I have a guy who takes 100$ to bid and win a car for me. I pay him the $100 when I get the winning paperwork and go there with a cashier check to pick the car up. I only wanted the interior of an Escalade so I stripped it and scraped the body. So no inspection was needed to get it back on the road.
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:14:40 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
2020 F-150 SuperCrew 5.0L =MasterRace, Bro. Just make sure it’s $50,000+. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:15:32 PM EDT
[#12]
The only salvage car I'd consider is hail damaged cars. Flood car no fucking way, wrecked cars, nope, frames are meant to bend now too easy. Hail damage because of little dings on every panel can total a car easy with no effect on its operation.
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:16:14 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No...you don't need a dealers license. You can register as an "individual" buyer. It depends on the state. Looks like in MO, it's dependant on the current title status of the car. My guess is that salvage titles require a dealer or intermediary. I wasn't entirely right, but in my state, it's dealer purchase only. Not like that's hard to get, but it's required by the purchaser. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:17:41 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The only salvage car I'd consider is hail damaged cars. Flood car no fucking way, wrecked cars, nope, frames are meant to bend now too easy. Hail damage because of little dings on every panel can total a car easy with no effect on its operation. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:18:27 PM EDT
[#15]
https://www.copart.com/content/us/en/landing-page/no-license-required
Broker needed or not varies by state etc. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:19:54 PM EDT
[#16]
 Near New Yukon HIDING MAJOR DAMAGE At Auto Auction  Dealer Selling Flood Cars with "NO Evidence of Water ANYWHERE" Exposed! |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:21:07 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The only salvage car I'd consider is hail damaged cars. Flood car no fucking way, wrecked cars, nope, frames are meant to bend now too easy. Hail damage because of little dings on every panel can total a car easy with no effect on its operation. If the water got anywhere near the fuse boxes it was a no go and it's usually easy to tell. Like another poster said, if you're smart about it you can get some really nice finds for the money. But my buddy says 90% of the stuff is junk. He's currently looking for a "beater" for my mom as a DD. $5k will go pretty far if you find the right car. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:24:54 PM EDT
[#18]
My daughters car a 2014 Forte was nice but got hail damaged, it booked for $9K but had 8K in hail damage, no broken windows just dings on every panel, so the insurance totaled it and I bought it back for $2800.
There was more BS involved than I thought though. Had to fill out paper work send it in to DOT, they sent salvage title back, but then I had to get an "enhanced inspection" scheduled which took a while, then I had to fill out a bunch of form to get a reconstructed title send it to DOT...but in the end I got a nice car with minor cosmetic damage for $2800. The R title will kill the value but who cares at that price I'll drive the wheels off it for a long time. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:25:08 PM EDT
[#19]
My dad has a UD license. We have used copart for years. I bought my daily driver from copart about 3 months ago. There can be amazing deals and then you can get a car with way more problems than what you thought it had, definitely buyer beware. Their sales fees are also pretty high. I think the last car I bought I won for around $3500 and the buyer fees were around $6-700 more plus getting it shipped to me. My dad collects older cars and has probably a couple dozen sports cars he has bought over the years through copart.
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:26:59 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Salvage doesn't mean frame damage. Damage enough small panels and parts and the repair bill adds up fast. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:30:01 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The only salvage car I'd consider is hail damaged cars. Flood car no fucking way, wrecked cars, nope, frames are meant to bend now too easy. Hail damage because of little dings on every panel can total a car easy with no effect on its operation. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:37:31 PM EDT
[#22]
I bought 2 motorcycles from them.
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:46:44 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well yeah...thats what I was talking about. But hail damage is the only totaled/salvage car I'd buy due to the circumstances. I'd rather have that than a car with dents all over panels that can't be replaced without cutting, welding, blending, painting, etc. Damage to integral panels is an almost certainty with hail damaged cars, not with collision damaged cars. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:47:19 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm the exact opposite. Hail damaged cars don't typically sell for enough of a discount to make them profitable after the expensive repairs it takes to get them fixed. Flood cars are a mixed bag. If you get a fresh water flood car they can be very easy and inexpensive to fix. I wouldn't touch a salt water flood though due to rust and salt residue left everywhere. As far as frame damage a lot of modern cars a designed with frames with multiple pieces that bolt together, so fixing them isn't all that bad either if you can just unbolt and replace the bent part. No need to fix hail damage dings as opposed to something that hit a tree or got water logged. I'm not taking about flipping them for profit as dealer just as a cheap driver. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:49:45 PM EDT
[#25]
A real basic way to check a vehicle is to run the VIN number through google image search. Many times you will see the vehicle when it was first taken to the Copart or salvage yard....then sometimes miraculously it will be reauctioned a week later and have what looks like alot less damage, but the hood is off a different model vehicle, or headlights from different vehicles. In the end you really have to do your homework.
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:55:43 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A real basic way to check a vehicle is to run the VIN number through google image search. Many times you will see the vehicle when it was first taken to the Copart or salvage yard....then sometimes miraculously it will be reauctioned a week later and have what looks like alot less damage, but the hood is off a different model vehicle, or headlights from different vehicles. In the end you really have to do your homework. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 6:56:20 PM EDT
[#27]
I had a guy at work that flips cars off coparts pick me up a honda accord for a beater daily driver. He got it, swapped out a door and bumper and sold it to me for what he had in it. I was happy with it. Even had remote start. Nothing wrong with a salvage title car if you know what is wrong with it and know how to work on cars.
ETA he got it checked out and titled before selling it to me. |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 7:47:40 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can you translate? |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 7:57:48 PM EDT
[#29]
I send alot of cars to Copart. Many of them it's just body damage that pushed over the total loss threshold. Alot of them wouldnt need a salvage title in my state. I wouldnt hesitate to buy one if I knew what I was getting in to.
ETA even with flood cars alot of the time they arent bad. Even if it's not technically a total I try to get these totaled just not to deal with the potential headache of supplemental damage in the future. Usually if it's over 6-8 years old and in a parking lot with water over the rockers I total it and send to auction. I dont usually deal with salt water claims here |
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Posted: 8/30/2019 9:10:43 PM EDT
[#30]
I don't understand how the bidding works. You can bid any time you want online.....but they say "auction is on every Wednesday".
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Posted: 8/30/2019 9:41:47 PM EDT
[#31]
I don't, but know those that do.
If the hood is stuck, dont buy it If the keys are missing....its a blown motor If something isn't in a picture, you can assume its missing, like the back seats. buy for fun but repairs can go stratospheric if you don't know what you are doing. |
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Posted: 8/31/2019 9:09:57 AM EDT
[#32]
Be careful. Depending on your states rules, know a guy that bought an Audi that needed some body work and some airbags. Long story short after fixing it he can’t register it due to the accident history of airbag deployment. (A least that’s his version of the story) so now he’s out a good amount of money.
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Posted: 8/31/2019 9:29:40 AM EDT
[#33]
Personally only way I would buy something from copart is either hail damage or for a project off roader.
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Posted: 8/31/2019 9:34:58 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Salvage doesn't mean frame damage. Damage enough small panels and parts and the repair bill adds up fast.  .
Oh, Bodyshop est was at almost $3800 which included paint and blending with much labor I'm sure. We have a 11k pound 2 post lift in our 40x60 morton building so this will be easy peasy  .
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Posted: 8/31/2019 6:45:12 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Need a dealer license. You can take the car for parts and that's the end of it. If you want to drive it again, you need to get it recertified for use on your road. This varies for salvage cars from state to state. There are definitely deals to be had if you are patient and know what to look for. |
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