User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 1:52:16 PM EDT
[#1]
Pics please. Your best bet is to find the old style TV shop that repairs intercoms and stuff like that. If you walk in and shit is piled everywhere, you found the right repair shop.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 1:52:37 PM EDT
[#2]
These custom caps or can you spec them out and buy them on Mouser?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 1:54:45 PM EDT
[#3]
Digikey is also an excellent supplier.
How do you know it is just the capacitors? Internet wisdom? Anyone with a good soldering iron (not the kind you buy at parts store) can fix it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 1:58:17 PM EDT
[#4]
What are the specs?
Do it yourself. I watched this video and then recapped a marantz stereo. It's easy.  How to Solder Electronics |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 2:00:59 PM EDT
[#5]
Maybe ebay. Then find a local tv repair shop
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 2:09:12 PM EDT
[#6]
There's no guarantee that it's going to work after the repair. You could try searching ebay for the entire PCB instead as that has a higher chance of working.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 2:14:16 PM EDT
[#7]
I have a lot of boards, drives, encoders, etc repaired for machinery. I send them to Paragon Technologies.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 3:19:04 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Digikey is also an excellent supplier. How do you know it is just the capacitors? Internet wisdom? Anyone with a good soldering iron (not the kind you buy at parts store) can fix it. I suck at soldering circuit boards. Its a known problem. It was working fine in california. Transporter dropped it off here in the cold and trans is in limp mode. There is no way to get a new one here in the us. Even a used one is expensive and theres no guarantee its going to work. I don’t have it off yet but its common capacitors from what I’ve read. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 3:21:33 PM EDT
[#9]
Do you have the part numbers/specs for the caps?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 3:51:30 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do you have the part numbers/specs for the caps? I don’t have it off yet. Its super windy and cold right now, but I’ll remove it tomorrow for sure. Do you know how to do it? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 5:58:11 PM EDT
[#11]
It needs
22F35V: qty of 2 10 F16V: qty of 2 22 F16V: qty of 1 |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 6:26:31 PM EDT
[#12]
Most likely the "F" is microfarad. Those value capacitors are common and should be easy to buy replacements. If they are really Farads, they are huge.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 6:33:07 PM EDT
[#13]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 6:51:57 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryEasily available from digi key but they're surface mount so that's going to be your biggest hurdle. Removing them while NOT removing componetnss 1/8" away that are soldered to same trace, also avoiding solder brdiges and overheating. Watch a bunch of videos on soldering. They're just 10µF and 22 µF rated for 16 Volt or 35 Volt (part numbers obvious) so super common. https://www.DigiKey.com Just need to get the mechanical dimensions correct. Suggest Panasonic or Nichinon replacements. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 6:57:43 PM EDT
[#15]
Shoot me a PM. I'm willing to try, if it works you can pay an hour of my shop time, if it doesn't... welll at least we tried.
 I've done this sort of thing before. Many times. And a grey market truck I own is going to auction soon, so I know those feels about having to fix things myself. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 7:05:08 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Shoot me a PM. I'm willing to try, if it works you can pay an hour of my shop time, if it doesn't... welll at least we tried. I've done this sort of thing before. Many times. And a grey market truck I own is going to auction soon, so I know those feels about having to fix things myself. Any chance of you making a thread about the repair if the OP takes you up on it? I'm trying to get better at soldering and electronics in general. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 7:06:18 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Shoot me a PM. I'm willing to try, if it works you can pay an hour of my shop time, if it doesn't... welll at least we tried. I've done this sort of thing before. Many times. And a grey market truck I own is going to auction soon, so I know those feels about having to fix things myself. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 7:09:57 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Shoot me a PM. I'm willing to try, if it works you can pay an hour of my shop time, if it doesn't... welll at least we tried. I've done this sort of thing before. Many times. And a grey market truck I own is going to auction soon, so I know those feels about having to fix things myself. Pm coming your way. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 7:59:07 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any chance of you making a thread about the repair if the OP takes you up on it? I'm trying to get better at soldering and electronics in general. I'll just post the process in here. Main thing, as with most repair work, is having the right tools. When doing boards you need a solder sucker. Heat contact to melt solder, pull away solder. Repeat for other contact. Gently slide cap out. Insert new, solder CAREFULLY and on to the next one. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 8:17:51 PM EDT
[#20]
I've been trying to use the copper braid stuff to desolder. Sometimes it seems to work ok, other times it doesn't want to wick up the solder.
Thanks! |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 8:22:50 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've been trying to use the copper braid stuff to desolder. Sometimes it seems to work ok, other times it doesn't want to wick up the solder. Thanks! I had an opportunity to use one of these once. Can't justify buying one for myself as I don't do near enough electronics work. No better way. Pretty much zero chance of lifting traces. Desoldering tool |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 8:25:55 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've been trying to use the copper braid stuff to desolder. Sometimes it seems to work ok, other times it doesn't want to wick up the solder. Thanks! Coat the braid in liquid flux before hitting it with the iron. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 8:38:01 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I had an opportunity to use one of these once. Can't justify buying one for myself as I don't do near enough electronics work. No better way. Pretty much zero chance of lifting traces. Desoldering tool Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I've been trying to use the copper braid stuff to desolder. Sometimes it seems to work ok, other times it doesn't want to wick up the solder. Thanks! I had an opportunity to use one of these once. Can't justify buying one for myself as I don't do near enough electronics work. No better way. Pretty much zero chance of lifting traces. Desoldering tool I have one as does @Goodn, I think. They are great for through hole components. For SMD, you'll want a hot air station.......... |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 8:46:48 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Digikey is also an excellent supplier. How do you know it is just the capacitors? Internet wisdom? Anyone with a good soldering iron (not the kind you buy at parts store) can fix it. JB Weld could make a fortune here with epoxy labeled "fixes electronics". |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 8:52:28 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's always capacitors in this forum. No thought to troubleshooting. JB Weld could make a fortune here with epoxy labeled "fixes electronics". Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Digikey is also an excellent supplier. How do you know it is just the capacitors? Internet wisdom? Anyone with a good soldering iron (not the kind you buy at parts store) can fix it. JB Weld could make a fortune here with epoxy labeled "fixes electronics". LOl, yeah. Electrolytics are always suspect though, especially if in a warmer enviornment. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 9:03:43 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's always capacitors in this forum. No thought to troubleshooting. JB Weld could make a fortune here with epoxy labeled "fixes electronics". Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Digikey is also an excellent supplier. How do you know it is just the capacitors? Internet wisdom? Anyone with a good soldering iron (not the kind you buy at parts store) can fix it. JB Weld could make a fortune here with epoxy labeled "fixes electronics". It almost always is. A 1¢ capacitor works almost as good as a 8¢ capacitor, just for not as long and definitely not in heavy load/heat situations. Chinese can make US Dollars that look and test as real as Bank issued bills. They can easily screen print "Nichinon 22 35V" on a cap that barely passed QC and tell the company they have building say "Yes, all real Nichinon caps, look inside!". No find out with out disassembling and pretty expensive testing. It turns on, sell it. If you want more reliable, don't buy a $300 TV. Stick with the higher end of well known brands which have a reputation to protect, well, to protect as long as the warranty lasts, anyway. If you have a display last 3 years today, it's on it's last legs if it's a no-name, meanwhile 15 year old displays still work fine, new shit just has cheapest components possible and the capacitors are what fail 99% of the time, that last 1% is the capacitors failing and taking out some transistors or control processor. That's why "It's always the caps". Especially when you look at them and they have crap oozing out of them and are bulged, tilted at a 40° angle from the board. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 9:17:11 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It almost always is. A 1¢ capacitor works almost as good as a 8¢ capacitor, just for not as long and definitely not in heavy load/heat situations. Chinese can make US Dollars that look and test as real as Bank issued bills. They can easily screen print "Nichinon 22 35V" on a cap that barely passed QC and tell the company they have building say "Yes, all real Nichinon caps, look inside!". No find out with out disassembling and pretty expensive testing. It turns on, sell it. If you want more reliable, don't buy a $300 TV. Stick with the higher end of well known brands which have a reputation to protect, well, to protect as long as the warranty lasts, anyway. If you have a display last 3 years today, it's on it's last legs if it's a no-name, meanwhile 15 year old displays still work fine, new shit just has cheapest components possible and the capacitors are what fail 99% of the time, that last 1% is the capacitors failing and taking out some transistors or control processor. That's why "It's always the caps". Especially when you look at them and they have crap oozing out of them and are bulged, tilted at a 40° angle from the board. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Digikey is also an excellent supplier. How do you know it is just the capacitors? Internet wisdom? Anyone with a good soldering iron (not the kind you buy at parts store) can fix it. JB Weld could make a fortune here with epoxy labeled "fixes electronics". It almost always is. A 1¢ capacitor works almost as good as a 8¢ capacitor, just for not as long and definitely not in heavy load/heat situations. Chinese can make US Dollars that look and test as real as Bank issued bills. They can easily screen print "Nichinon 22 35V" on a cap that barely passed QC and tell the company they have building say "Yes, all real Nichinon caps, look inside!". No find out with out disassembling and pretty expensive testing. It turns on, sell it. If you want more reliable, don't buy a $300 TV. Stick with the higher end of well known brands which have a reputation to protect, well, to protect as long as the warranty lasts, anyway. If you have a display last 3 years today, it's on it's last legs if it's a no-name, meanwhile 15 year old displays still work fine, new shit just has cheapest components possible and the capacitors are what fail 99% of the time, that last 1% is the capacitors failing and taking out some transistors or control processor. That's why "It's always the caps". Especially when you look at them and they have crap oozing out of them and are bulged, tilted at a 40° angle from the board. Yep. Many times a semi-conductor will fail becase a de-coupling cap in it's line developes a bad ESR. For folks that don't know, when an electrolytic cap starts to dry out, it can test "good", as far as it's capacitance rating goes, but it may also be behaving like a resistor. No way to tell without a proper ESR (equivilant series resistance) tester. When it starts passing any appreciable amount of current along the base, or gate of a transistor, (as Brass mentioned), the transistor will often die. You may say "hay, I've got a bad transistor" and just replace it, only to find it fails too after a few hours. In all reality, it is the capacitor that is causing the issue. Caps don't always have to be bulging/oozing to be bad.......... |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 9:30:24 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I suck at soldering circuit boards. Its a known problem. It was working fine in california. Transporter dropped it off here in the cold and trans is in limp mode. There is no way to get a new one here in the us. Even a used one is expensive and theres no guarantee its going to work. I don't have it off yet but its common capacitors from what I've read. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 9:34:49 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ain't nobody got time fo Dat..... If it rolls on rubber tires: Drop an LS engine in it- Boom, fixed. I'm not against that ...  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 9:37:10 PM EDT
[#30]
Grey market car with an auto transmission?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 9:38:44 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It almost always is. A 1 capacitor works almost as good as a 8 capacitor, just for not as long and definitely not in heavy load/heat situations. Chinese can make US Dollars that look and test as real as Bank issued bills. They can easily screen print "Nichinon 22 35V" on a cap that barely passed QC and tell the company they have building say "Yes, all real Nichinon caps, look inside!". No find out with out disassembling and pretty expensive testing. It turns on, sell it. If you want more reliable, don't buy a $300 TV. Stick with the higher end of well known brands which have a reputation to protect, well, to protect as long as the warranty lasts, anyway. If you have a display last 3 years today, it's on it's last legs if it's a no-name, meanwhile 15 year old displays still work fine, new shit just has cheapest components possible and the capacitors are what fail 99% of the time, that last 1% is the capacitors failing and taking out some transistors or control processor. That's why "It's always the caps". Especially when you look at them and they have crap oozing out of them and are bulged, tilted at a 40 angle from the board. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Digikey is also an excellent supplier. How do you know it is just the capacitors? Internet wisdom? Anyone with a good soldering iron (not the kind you buy at parts store) can fix it. JB Weld could make a fortune here with epoxy labeled "fixes electronics". It almost always is. A 1 capacitor works almost as good as a 8 capacitor, just for not as long and definitely not in heavy load/heat situations. Chinese can make US Dollars that look and test as real as Bank issued bills. They can easily screen print "Nichinon 22 35V" on a cap that barely passed QC and tell the company they have building say "Yes, all real Nichinon caps, look inside!". No find out with out disassembling and pretty expensive testing. It turns on, sell it. If you want more reliable, don't buy a $300 TV. Stick with the higher end of well known brands which have a reputation to protect, well, to protect as long as the warranty lasts, anyway. If you have a display last 3 years today, it's on it's last legs if it's a no-name, meanwhile 15 year old displays still work fine, new shit just has cheapest components possible and the capacitors are what fail 99% of the time, that last 1% is the capacitors failing and taking out some transistors or control processor. That's why "It's always the caps". Especially when you look at them and they have crap oozing out of them and are bulged, tilted at a 40 angle from the board. Troubleshooting electronics is more than replacing obvious parts. Generally we want to know the reason the obvious parts failed, then ferret out the real problem. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 9:46:47 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Pics please. Your best bet is to find the old style TV shop that repairs intercoms and stuff like that. If you walk in and shit is piled everywhere, you found the right repair shop. Dying breed. The last one of those around here closed twenty years ago. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 10:44:07 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Troubleshooting electronics is more than replacing obvious parts. Generally we want to know the reason the obvious parts failed, then ferret out the real problem. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Digikey is also an excellent supplier. How do you know it is just the capacitors? Internet wisdom? Anyone with a good soldering iron (not the kind you buy at parts store) can fix it. JB Weld could make a fortune here with epoxy labeled "fixes electronics". It almost always is. A 1 capacitor works almost as good as a 8 capacitor, just for not as long and definitely not in heavy load/heat situations. Chinese can make US Dollars that look and test as real as Bank issued bills. They can easily screen print "Nichinon 22 35V" on a cap that barely passed QC and tell the company they have building say "Yes, all real Nichinon caps, look inside!". No find out with out disassembling and pretty expensive testing. It turns on, sell it. If you want more reliable, don't buy a $300 TV. Stick with the higher end of well known brands which have a reputation to protect, well, to protect as long as the warranty lasts, anyway. If you have a display last 3 years today, it's on it's last legs if it's a no-name, meanwhile 15 year old displays still work fine, new shit just has cheapest components possible and the capacitors are what fail 99% of the time, that last 1% is the capacitors failing and taking out some transistors or control processor. That's why "It's always the caps". Especially when you look at them and they have crap oozing out of them and are bulged, tilted at a 40 angle from the board. Troubleshooting electronics is more than replacing obvious parts. Generally we want to know the reason the obvious parts failed, then ferret out the real problem. Not for mass produced consumer electronics. If you identify the problem isn't power, you aren't going to be fixing it anyway, it's built like computers for board level replacement rather than components. Capacitors are still big enough and a big enough problem due to counterfeits continually making it into supply chains that they are an easy fix. Most other parts do not even have part numbers on them anymore, especially SMD micro-controllers where you have no way of getting the code loaded onto it if it failed, exception is some power transistors which sometimes are labelled, but testing beyond power supply runs well over the cost of a new one anyway. There's a reason lots of things don't even have screws to void the warranty with, whole thing is just two plastic halves ultrasonically welded together. For older stuff, yes, troubleshooting and replacing components is a procedure, follow power, follow signal, etc. For consumer electronics, not worth it when you can get a new power supply board/module for $40 and swap it in with no soldering required (or an entire new unit for $300, though it spies on you, since you're watching TV being spied on isn't a concern anyway for many people). |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 11:47:53 PM EDT
[#34]
I’ll post pics of it tomorrow. No way an ls motor fits. Its got a 660cc engine in there now with a turbo the size of a donut. Its pretty hilarious. Pics also don’t show the true size of it. Think of it as a razr you can drive on the street and the razr might be a little bigger. If it warms up some in the next few days, I’m gonna throw my lift springs on there and my A/T tires.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 11:48:37 PM EDT
[#35]
And I do have an ls motor, its just going into my 2nd gen camaro.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2022 11:51:10 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Grey market car with an auto transmission? I’ve got another grey market car thats getting a k24 with a 6 speed. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 2:50:01 PM EDT
[#37]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 2:52:11 PM EDT
[#38]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 2:54:11 PM EDT
[#39]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 2:55:16 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryGood luck getting anything out with that potting crap around it....... maybe those caps didn't get it too bad? looks like you've got a broken flying lead aslo.......... |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 3:38:43 PM EDT
[#41]
Dealer wanted $1,300 to replace and calibrate the K-H ABS module on our old Chevy Trailblazer. I pulled it off the frame, took it apart and re soldered the 21 broken contacts where the solenoids were attached to the rinky dink way too thin for the design circuit board. Resealed, reinstalled and cleared the codes. Fixed.
I watched both youtube vids on the procedure beforehand. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 3:56:48 PM EDT
[#42]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 4:26:31 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was blowing out the plastic pieces and I broke this wire. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/272353/8795228B-1219-4D76-AD39-35622FCFA0B5_jpe-2620185.JPG Uhhh. What the hell were you blowing it out with?? Get some 32 gauge magnet wire or wire wrapping wire (wire wrap has actual sheath insulation instead of just the enamel paint magnet wire uses). It could make a new jumper easy. You'll Need to be very delicate to try and cut out the potting around the capacitors since at least one of their contacts is under it - WITHOUT cutting a trace or another jumper. If you try to pull the black vibration damping potting off entirely, entire traces of the board and components will come up with it. That's their way of saying "We really mean it this time" when you open a "no user serviceable parts inside" box. It's actually to keep vibration from shaking bits with mass (large capacitors) off of the board, the little tiny resistors and wires don't move energy around like the more "heavy" as in mass parts do, vibration in cars kills a ton of stuff if not protected by several defense layers against temp/vibration/moisture/etc. I'd suggest sending it to somebody that can deal with the potting compound, SMD and repair the jumper, then re-add epoxy to hold new caps in place. Things inside are quite delicate. --ETA: Normally, with bad caps at least one sits a little crooked or has a bulge or a leak of some gunk but those all look fine, that doesn't mean they're good, there's only those and the PLCC without socket looking chip that you can replace to attempt a repair anyway, and I doubt you'll get a programmed replacement chip if you can't get OEM board at all. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 4:30:25 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Dying breed. The last one of those around here closed twenty years ago. Can confirm. I've been looking for someone to solder a new HDMI port onto a Xbox console that doesn't charge $100+ in addition to shipping both ways for like a year. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 4:38:43 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can confirm. I've been looking for someone to solder a new HDMI port onto a Xbox console that doesn't charge $100+ in addition to shipping both ways for like a year. Super easy. Desolder old port. Clean the contacts. Flux and add solder to the contacts. Solder in the new port only on the mounts. Flux the pins, "brush" the iron across the pins. Done. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 4:50:16 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Uhhh. What the hell were you blowing it out with?? Get some 32 gauge magnet wire or wire wrapping wire (wire wrap has actual sheath insulation instead of just the enamel paint magnet wire uses). It could make a new jumper easy. You'll Need to be very delicate to try and cut out the potting around the capacitors since at least one of their contacts is under it - WITHOUT cutting a trace or another jumper. If you try to pull the black vibration damping potting off entirely, entire traces of the board and components will come up with it. That's their way of saying "We really mean it this time" when you open a "no user serviceable parts inside" box. It's actually to keep vibration from shaking bits with mass (large capacitors) off of the board, the little tiny resistors and wires don't move energy around like the more "heavy" as in mass parts do, vibration in cars kills a ton of stuff if not protected by several defense layers against temp/vibration/moisture/etc. I'd suggest sending it to somebody that can deal with the potting compound, SMD and repair the jumper, then re-add epoxy to hold new caps in place. Things inside are quite delicate. --ETA: Normally, with bad caps at least one sits a little crooked or has a bulge or a leak of some gunk but those all look fine, that doesn't mean they're good, there's only those and the PLCC without socket looking chip that you can replace to attempt a repair anyway, and I doubt you'll get a programmed replacement chip if you can't get OEM board at all. Greyghost wanted a pic and Iont had a cutting wheel to cut it open. There was a lot of plastic debris in there. I blew it out with our shop compress and blow gun. Its powerful. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 4:52:40 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Uhhh. What the hell were you blowing it out with?? Get some 32 gauge magnet wire or wire wrapping wire (wire wrap has actual sheath insulation instead of just the enamel paint magnet wire uses). It could make a new jumper easy. You'll Need to be very delicate to try and cut out the potting around the capacitors since at least one of their contacts is under it - WITHOUT cutting a trace or another jumper. If you try to pull the black vibration damping potting off entirely, entire traces of the board and components will come up with it. That's their way of saying "We really mean it this time" when you open a "no user serviceable parts inside" box. It's actually to keep vibration from shaking bits with mass (large capacitors) off of the board, the little tiny resistors and wires don't move energy around like the more "heavy" as in mass parts do, vibration in cars kills a ton of stuff if not protected by several defense layers against temp/vibration/moisture/etc. I'd suggest sending it to somebody that can deal with the potting compound, SMD and repair the jumper, then re-add epoxy to hold new caps in place. Things inside are quite delicate. --ETA: Normally, with bad caps at least one sits a little crooked or has a bulge or a leak of some gunk but those all look fine, that doesn't mean they're good, there's only those and the PLCC without socket looking chip that you can replace to attempt a repair anyway, and I doubt you'll get a programmed replacement chip if you can't get OEM board at all. Greyghost wanted a pic and I only had a cutting wheel to cut it open. There was a lot of plastic debris in there. I blew it out with our shop compress and blow gun. Its powerful. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 5:03:44 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have one as does @Goodn, I think. They are great for through hole components. For SMD, you'll want a hot air station.......... I do SMD with a fine tip iron. It sucks but works. I semi regularly end up replacing drivers and such on boards that haven't been made in a decade or better. Got a hot air station but no idea how to use it. Solder wick and a solder sucker are your best friends when replacing components. OP should get a manual tranny which won't have PCB issues. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 5:08:47 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I do SMD with a fine tip iron. It sucks but works. I semi regularly end up replacing drivers and such on boards that haven't been made in a decade or better. Got a hot air station but no idea how to use it. Solder wick and a solder sucker are your best friends when replacing components. OP should get a manual tranny which won't have PCB issues. YouTube is your friend. Watch some Louis Rossmann or Paul Daniels stuff. They do a lot of board repair with hot air |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2022 5:12:17 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Super easy. Desolder old port. Clean the contacts. Flux and add solder to the contacts. Solder in the new port only on the mounts. Flux the pins, "brush" the iron across the pins. Done. I wish. My eyes are pretty far gone. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
Attached File
Attached File
Attached File
Attached File