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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:20:45 PM EDT
[#1]
why not just mud over existing finish instead of adding 1/4" and creating the reveal problem?
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:22:07 PM EDT
[#2]
Im a sheet rocker on occasion for a living.
I agree with above post. Float and retexture. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:24:36 PM EDT
[#3]
I have the same problem. One room I tried doing what you are wanting. Left the plaster and covered with 1/4 drywall. Problem is the drywall that thin gets wavy. Best thing I have found is to pull the plaster down, leave the lathe then put 1/2 drywall on top. That allows you to inspect the insulation behind it and add as needed.
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:27:26 PM EDT
[#4]
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:28:16 PM EDT
[#5]
You don't hire a professional to tell him to do a repair, but you could probably find someone on craigslist or a home depot parking lot to help.
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:28:56 PM EDT
[#6]
 This is what you seek ! |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:31:16 PM EDT
[#7]
Rip it down to framing and hang rock? Start with a fresh slate and update the wiring while it's apart.
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:35:46 PM EDT
[#8]
I've worked on a few older houses and I can't get a contractor that will repair lath and plaster. They all want to replace because it ends up looking so much better than a repair.
And it's pretty cheap, too. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:37:52 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Rip it down to framing and hang rock? Start with a fresh slate and update the wiring while it's apart. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:40:46 PM EDT
[#10]
It'll look like hammered assholes if you don't rip it out OP.
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Posted: 1/16/2021 9:41:31 PM EDT
[#11]
Skim coat it
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Posted: 1/16/2021 10:54:15 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: why not just mud over existing finish instead of adding 1/4" and creating the reveal problem? I guess you missed this part.  I am sure someone will tell me to skim coat it, tear out the plaster, or just repair the plaster. I don't want to do any of that. I just want to lay the 1/4 inch drywall over what I have. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 10:58:04 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Rip it down to framing and hang rock? Start with a fresh slate and update the wiring while it's apart. What he said |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:04:21 PM EDT
[#14]
You won’t listen to shit but I’m going to say it anyway.
I was in your spot. I didn’t want to take it out. I wanted to fix and repair then blend in sheet rock where needed. After a day of trying to sand that shut down to a level that would work I said fuck it. Not sure how yours is but I’m pretty sure mine is made of fucking diamonds. Plus the places I did accomplish didn’t look right. The new mud and skim coat just could not match the texture even doing the orange peel I could just tell. Anyway I saved the walls I could a replaced entirely where I could not. Anyway I’m not a contractor just a guy who doesn’t listen to people and tries to do everything myself. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:06:12 PM EDT
[#15]
You could pull the baseboards and crown. Place strips behind it to offset?
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:08:42 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I guess you missed this part. I am sure someone will tell me to skim coat it, tear out the plaster, or just repair the plaster. I don't want to do any of that. I just want to lay the 1/4 inch drywall over what I have. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:09:20 PM EDT
[#17]
The walls would have to be pretty damn smooth for 1/4 sheetrock to not be wavy as fuck. Probably take a bunch of sanding to get there.
Job is a bit complicated to give an estimate without looking at it. Your looking at multiple trades for one. Electrical box extensions. All the trim has to be removed and reinstalled. What kind of finish do you want? I vote skim for interior walls and tear down exterior since they probably are not insulated. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:09:28 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Rip it down to framing and hang rock? Start with a fresh slate and update the wiring while it's apart. I did this strategically in my 1873 home. Doing center rooms so I could update adjacent rooms electrical and plumbing while I was at it. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:10:44 PM EDT
[#19]
Are your baseboards essentially 1x10’s if so that would be .75
Cabinet grade stuff would put you at 7/8s and you could always go to 1” baseboards. would be pricer than essentially shimming behind it. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:11:34 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've worked on a few older houses and I can't get a contractor that will repair lath and plaster. They all want to replace because it ends up looking so much better than a repair. And it's pretty cheap, too. Don't let the old house crew know you removed plaster and replaced it with Sheetrock. They'll have fits about it, ask me how I know. Nobody locally does plaster and it's not worth the expense of hiring somebody from far away not is it a skill I wish to learn. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:13:06 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I guess you missed this part. I am sure someone will tell me to skim coat it, tear out the plaster, or just repair the plaster. I don't want to do any of that. I just want to lay the 1/4 inch drywall over what I have. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: why not just mud over existing finish instead of adding 1/4" and creating the reveal problem? I guess you missed this part. I am sure someone will tell me to skim coat it, tear out the plaster, or just repair the plaster. I don't want to do any of that. I just want to lay the 1/4 inch drywall over what I have. Then it's going to look like a bag of smashed assholes. I love houses full of bad DIY projects. I scoop them up cheap and flip/rent them. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:13:29 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Rip it down to framing and hang rock? Start with a fresh slate and update the wiring while it's apart. Thats what I would do. Maybe OP likes the historical part of lathe & plaster? I feel bad everytime I remove plaster & lathe from my house. Its really the only easy (for a do it yourselfer) to insulate and put in modern wiring as far as I know |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:14:27 PM EDT
[#23]
I would just demo out the lath and plaster. While the walls are open bring the electrical up to code, insulate, install dry wall, tape and float, and paint.
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:15:48 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What he said Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Rip it down to framing and hang rock? Start with a fresh slate and update the wiring while it's apart. What he said Its what i did. Sprayed foam insulation before hanging the rock, too. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:15:53 PM EDT
[#25]
Quoted: My home is a 1906 victorian. Part of the downstairs is still lathe and plaster walls. The previous owner decided to add some really ugly cake icing like texture to the walls. I think they did it to cover up cracking plaster. The texture is super thick and I am beyond tired of it. I have three rooms that I am going to have fixed first. I would like to sand the high points off of the texture enough to put 1/4 inch drywall over existing plaster. I have enough relief on my door casings, but the top piece of molding on the 11 inch base boards will not have enough relief. Also the bottom edge of the crown does not have enough relief to but the drywall up against it. I would like to have someone glue and screw the drywall to the existing plaster. I think I am looking the three rooms are probably 700 square feet or so. Does anyone in the know have a rough estimate of what this is going to cost me?? I am sure someone will tell me to skim coat it, tear out the plaster, or just repair the plaster. I don't want to do any of that. I just want to lay the 1/4 inch drywall over what I have. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can offer. P.S......115 year old houses are beautiful, but can be a bitch. I have a 150 year old house and I removed the original trim and ripped the walls down, insulated and drywaller and re hung the original trim. It took a TON of work to get the trim off and clean it up but it was worth it. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:16:38 PM EDT
[#26]
Quoted: I would like to sand the high points off of the texture enough to put 1/4 inch drywall over existing plaster. Has it been cleared of asbestos? |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:17:19 PM EDT
[#27]
No offense OP, but
Quote HistoryQuoted: You don't hire a professional to tell him to do a repair, but you could probably find someone on craigslist or a home depot parking lot to help. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:17:53 PM EDT
[#28]
Why not just glue the 1/4" sheetrock with no screws. Seems to me I would be easier to get it less wavey.
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:34:14 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I guess you missed this part. I am sure someone will tell me to skim coat it, tear out the plaster, or just repair the plaster. I don't want to do any of that. I just want to lay the 1/4 inch drywall over what I have. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: why not just mud over existing finish instead of adding 1/4" and creating the reveal problem? I guess you missed this part. I am sure someone will tell me to skim coat it, tear out the plaster, or just repair the plaster. I don't want to do any of that. I just want to lay the 1/4 inch drywall over what I have. I will reiterate in stronger terms. If you put 1/4” drywall up the wall will look like it is waving like a fucking flag in a hurricane. You’ll have a hard time finding someone to do that who isn’t on meth because they don’t want their name on that and they know they are going to get called back out because of that. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:39:11 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Skim coat it I did this in the living room and dining room in an old 1920s house. It took a bit of sanding but came out great. Not sure how it held up though, sold it 2 years later. I “V” notched any cracks and coated the inside of them with a liquid concrete bonding agent. Someone before me glued and nailed paneling to the plaster, I didn’t want to knock the old walls out as they had plaster crown moldings formed in. OP, I suggest you do the same... sell the house. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 11:44:45 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Rip it down to framing and hang rock? Start with a fresh slate and update the wiring while it's apart. |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 1:12:57 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Don't let the old house crew know you removed plaster and replaced it with Sheetrock. They'll have fits about it, ask me how I know. Nobody locally does plaster and it's not worth the expense of hiring somebody from far away not is it a skill I wish to learn. If you have a good drywall guy they won't be able to tell the difference. You can make it just as smooth with no sanding, or you can level 5 it if you are fancy. Spray texture is for tract houses. |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 8:43:23 AM EDT
[#33]
I've had to deal with the same situation many times with houses in Bklyn, NY that I own & are well over 100 years old, Plaster & lathe sucks.
I know you dont want to hear it but ripping it out & upgrading everything is the correct answer. There is no way to cover it up & make it look right, just wasting your time, money & energy for nothing. |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 8:59:01 AM EDT
[#34]
Remove crown and baseboards. Put firing strips on use 1/2 sheet rock finish and put back crown and baseboards. Sanding that down will cost to much.
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Posted: 1/17/2021 9:22:14 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I guess you missed this part. I am sure someone will tell me to skim coat it, tear out the plaster, or just repair the plaster. I don't want to do any of that. I just want to lay the 1/4 inch drywall over what I have. |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 9:24:20 AM EDT
[#36]
Drywall is garbage compared to plaster. FPNI , skim coat the texturing after sanding it down a bit.
What you want to do will just look like you activated the warp drive every time you’re in the room. Also lol at the guy spray foaming his older house, they were built to breathe, sealing it like that with spray foam encourages tons of rot. |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 12:05:46 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Drywall is garbage compared to plaster. FPNI , skim coat the texturing after sanding it down a bit. What you want to do will just look like you activated the warp drive every time you’re in the room. Also lol at the guy spray foaming his older house, they were built to breathe, sealing it like that with spray foam encourages tons of rot. I appreciate everyone's comments, but the one I am quoting is a big reason I don't want to pull down the plaster and lathe and drywall it. Do I think it would look better? Sure. My concern is my exterior wall structure consists of wood siding, no sheathing, no vapor barrier, open wall cavity, and then plaster and lathe. My wall framing is all dry and in good shape. If I tear off the plaster and lathe, won't I have to address the issue of a vapor barrier before insulating? I have read lots of horror stories of people with no sheathing/vapor barrier insulating their walls and promoting rot. That is my big concern with tearing off the plaster and insulating. If someone can explain to me how I can do this without spending a ton of money and risking potential wall issues, I am all ears. I have a guy coming over to look Monday, but I want to make sure whatever he recommends is a good solution long term. My biggest concern is causing rot issues down the road. Thanks again for all of the answers. |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 12:28:06 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Remove crown and baseboards. Put firing strips on use 1/2 sheet rock finish and put back crown and baseboards. Sanding that down will cost to much. ^ This. But use 3/8" sheetrock. I started out in the trades doing drywall (with a drywall contractor). I learned everything there was about drywall from that time. We used to do these types of corrections all the time. We would use 3/8" sheetrock for those types of projects (sections of the crown or baseboard would be removed). We would use 1-5/8" to 2" course-thread screws for the sheetrock installation (no glue). The homes never had any issues ever when its done correctly. The crown & baseboard would either have a section removed (if they were multi-piece trim moldings), or be completely removed and re-installed after). |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 12:31:39 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I appreciate everyone's comments, but the one I am quoting is a big reason I don't want to pull down the plaster and lathe and drywall it. Do I think it would look better? Sure. My concern is my exterior wall structure consists of wood siding, no sheathing, no vapor barrier, open wall cavity, and then plaster and lathe. My wall framing is all dry and in good shape. If I tear off the plaster and lathe, won't I have to address the issue of a vapor barrier before insulating? I have read lots of horror stories of people with no sheathing/vapor barrier insulating their walls and promoting rot. That is my big concern with tearing off the plaster and insulating. If someone can explain to me how I can do this without spending a ton of money and risking potential wall issues, I am all ears. I have a guy coming over to look Monday, but I want to make sure whatever he recommends is a good solution long term. My biggest concern is causing rot issues down the road. Thanks again for all of the answers. DO NOT TEAR THE INTERIOR WALLS OFF. Trust me. If you have horse hair plaster and wood lathing = it is a crap load of labor, debris, dust + mucho additional work that goes along with it (including some framing corrections and tremendous debris and clean-up). The debris will weigh a ton, you will then get into re-wiring, re-insulation, and a lot of other work (its a huge can of worms). Although I started out in the trades doing drywall, I am now a state licensed general contractor. I have done (and still do) many, many renovations projects. So I am telling you this (suggestion) from experience. Have we done it (yes). I have no problem doing the full tear out on a project and charging people if that is what they want. But if your goal is to improve the appearance of the walls, do not turn this into a major renovation project (and that's what will definitely happen if you start taking the interior wall surfaces off). |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 5:37:26 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I appreciate everyone's comments, but the one I am quoting is a big reason I don't want to pull down the plaster and lathe and drywall it. Do I think it would look better? Sure. My concern is my exterior wall structure consists of wood siding, no sheathing, no vapor barrier, open wall cavity, and then plaster and lathe. My wall framing is all dry and in good shape. If I tear off the plaster and lathe, won't I have to address the issue of a vapor barrier before insulating? I have read lots of horror stories of people with no sheathing/vapor barrier insulating their walls and promoting rot. That is my big concern with tearing off the plaster and insulating. If someone can explain to me how I can do this without spending a ton of money and risking potential wall issues, I am all ears. I have a guy coming over to look Monday, but I want to make sure whatever he recommends is a good solution long term. My biggest concern is causing rot issues down the road. Thanks again for all of the answers. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Drywall is garbage compared to plaster. FPNI , skim coat the texturing after sanding it down a bit. What you want to do will just look like you activated the warp drive every time you're in the room. Also lol at the guy spray foaming his older house, they were built to breathe, sealing it like that with spray foam encourages tons of rot. I appreciate everyone's comments, but the one I am quoting is a big reason I don't want to pull down the plaster and lathe and drywall it. Do I think it would look better? Sure. My concern is my exterior wall structure consists of wood siding, no sheathing, no vapor barrier, open wall cavity, and then plaster and lathe. My wall framing is all dry and in good shape. If I tear off the plaster and lathe, won't I have to address the issue of a vapor barrier before insulating? I have read lots of horror stories of people with no sheathing/vapor barrier insulating their walls and promoting rot. That is my big concern with tearing off the plaster and insulating. If someone can explain to me how I can do this without spending a ton of money and risking potential wall issues, I am all ears. I have a guy coming over to look Monday, but I want to make sure whatever he recommends is a good solution long term. My biggest concern is causing rot issues down the road. Thanks again for all of the answers. My home is 148 years old. At some point prior to the mid 90's a previous owner had a company come in and cut holes in the interior walls/fill the cavities with blown in insulation and then patch over the holes. No vapor barrier was installed at any point. I've torn three rooms down to the studs and joists since I've been here and never found any signs of rot other than a joist I cut out and replaced that was under a toilet that leaked at some time. I live in an area that experiences all four seasons, sometimes in a single day. |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 5:41:43 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: DO NOT TEAR THE INTERIOR WALLS OFF. Trust me. If you have horse hair plaster and wood lathing = it is a crap load of labor, debris, dust + mucho additional work that goes along with it (including some framing corrections and tremendous debris and clean-up). The debris will weigh a ton, you will then get into re-wiring, re-insulation, and a lot of other work (its a huge can of worms). Although I started out in the trades doing drywall, I am now a state licensed general contractor. I have done (and still do) many, many renovations projects. So I am telling you this (suggestion) from experience. Have we done it (yes). I have no problem doing the full tear out on a project and charging people if that is what they want. But if your goal is to improve the appearance of the walls, do not turn this into a major renovation project (and that's what will definitely happen if you start taking the interior wall surfaces off). Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I appreciate everyone's comments, but the one I am quoting is a big reason I don't want to pull down the plaster and lathe and drywall it. Do I think it would look better? Sure. My concern is my exterior wall structure consists of wood siding, no sheathing, no vapor barrier, open wall cavity, and then plaster and lathe. My wall framing is all dry and in good shape. If I tear off the plaster and lathe, won't I have to address the issue of a vapor barrier before insulating? I have read lots of horror stories of people with no sheathing/vapor barrier insulating their walls and promoting rot. That is my big concern with tearing off the plaster and insulating. If someone can explain to me how I can do this without spending a ton of money and risking potential wall issues, I am all ears. I have a guy coming over to look Monday, but I want to make sure whatever he recommends is a good solution long term. My biggest concern is causing rot issues down the road. Thanks again for all of the answers. DO NOT TEAR THE INTERIOR WALLS OFF. Trust me. If you have horse hair plaster and wood lathing = it is a crap load of labor, debris, dust + mucho additional work that goes along with it (including some framing corrections and tremendous debris and clean-up). The debris will weigh a ton, you will then get into re-wiring, re-insulation, and a lot of other work (its a huge can of worms). Although I started out in the trades doing drywall, I am now a state licensed general contractor. I have done (and still do) many, many renovations projects. So I am telling you this (suggestion) from experience. Have we done it (yes). I have no problem doing the full tear out on a project and charging people if that is what they want. But if your goal is to improve the appearance of the walls, do not turn this into a major renovation project (and that's what will definitely happen if you start taking the interior wall surfaces off). lol This is absolutely true. I've done three rooms this way and have one more to go. The rooms I did not gut I pulled off the 10" baseboards to run new electrical before reinstalling. The ceilings were cut in spots for new lights/fans and covered with 3/8 Sheetrock since many of them were cracking anyway. I think the house had a total of 10 or twelve outlets when I moved in and none of them were anywhere near where you wanted them. |
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