We have inspection here in PA...and I knew that I'd have to do the front Struts and outer tie rods...but it failed for 2 Struts, 2 Control Arms/ball joints, and the inner and outer tie rods on both sides (not sure how much is exactly true...I have my suspicions about the place I got it inspected, but it was the only one that could get me in on my schedule...edited...I think they were surprised when I told them I'd fix it and bring it back for the reinspection).   Anyhow...I've ordered the parts (330xi..E46) as most will need to be done anyway (132k miles on it).

It struck me that if I pull all those things...there's only the CV joints in the axle and the brake line holding it in place....I don't particularly want to stress them if it falls off of whatever support I put the knuckle on.

So...I think I'll do the Strut first (letting the old control arm help hold it), then once it's in place do the control arm and tie rods (keeping some of the stress off the new ones).

Anyone have any other suggestions?

Are you doing them all over a day or a weekend? If so I wouldn't worry too much beyond doing the strut first and then using a stiff bungee or rope to keep the CV axle from slipping out Whatever you do make sure you don't let is slip apart inside the boots (ask me how I know).

Ouch...good point.   I'm not a mechanic, so I'm budgeting next weekend to do it...hopefully within a day (I did the CV axle in the spring...wish I had just done the struts then).

Place an order with Rockauto.com

Already Shipped out....

They've got most of the stuff I'd need.

Use a coat hanger to hang the spindle and axle from one of the strut bolt holes. Replace the control arm, then do the struts.  Then make sure the steering is centered and do the inner and outer tie rods. Use a tape measure to adjust your alignment by measuring the distance between the leading edge and trailing edge of your tires. If you do it right it'll be damn near perfect. Takes a good bit of trial and error if you're doing things solo.  If you have a helper they just need to keep the steering wheel centered while you get the inner/outer rods adjusted. At a minimum get it so they're pointing in ever so slightly and get it aligned right away.

It's overdue for an alignment anyway, but I figured that pulling the old Tie Rod off (as a unit), then setting up the new one to the same length before installing would help too.

it'll get you a lot closer that's for sure.  You just need to make sure the steering is locked out at the 12 o clock position.  Either way you'll still be fiddling with the parts a bit to get the wheels more or less straight.  Taking a measurement from a fixed reference point on the chassis and matching it with the new parts will probably be damn near spot on.

Might as well do it all while you are there.

If you havent done it already, might want to tackle the lower controll arm bushings. They are easy, and the ones I pulled off a friends 138k mile 330i ZHP car were completely destroyed. Meyle solid rubber bushings worked wonders.

Good info already. One suggestion, to hold the steering wheel, I use a rubber bungee and hook it to the bottom of the seat.

Yup, the Meyle solid rubber bushings last longer than the liquid filled stockers.  They are sold as Meyle HD.

But you said you got whole arms, they will come with bushings.  If you got Meyles I think they have the advantage of having available replacement ball joints in the future.

I suggest taking a good look at the axle boots and consider doing them while everything is apart.  It's a lot of work to get to them later.

Ever think about taking it to another mechanic for a second opinion?  I've had near rape experiences with mechanics over front suspension components.  Its easy and quick money for them and they act like they are some kind of mechanical gods that can only perform the repair because you will kill yourself if you attempt it yourself.

They look at all that? Inspection wasnt that bad when i was in nj. Let me guess it a full service shop that did the inspection?

I thought about it, but as the car has 130k miles (70ish of them mine), probably worth doing them as basic maintenance...however, if the parts are in good shape when they come off, I'll take them in and have a 'discussion' with them.