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Link Posted: 11/17/2022 12:26:29 AM EDT
[#1]
I kinda lost all ambition after mine mildly blew up

I may return to it one of these days

I was working on a thump n grind at the time too... haven't touched it since

I'm working on a bidens bane upper and a scarlot now... I just went back to regular guns
Link Posted: 11/17/2022 4:01:28 PM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:


LOL, I use 3D builder more than I'd like to admit. It's really good for jamming stuff together and hollowing stuff out, which is the bulk of how I design....

I'm using Polymaker and I like it a lot. I'm printing at 160/100 - which is all my i3 Mega S will do. My mega X will do 150/90 - and it's... okay? It's in an improvised welding blanket enclosure and I still get some warping and bed adhesion issues.  I haven't had significant issues with layer adhesion, but I also try to be conscious of that when I design stuff - you'll note in my reinforced receiver for this I stuck a screw through straight down through the top- it holds the unlock lever in place but also reinforces the whole top section across the layer grain.

I've been in some development groups for hi-low shells and am working on my own based on purple ramsets, which is exposing some other weak links in this design. I'm working on a MAJOR overhaul right now that converts the hammer system to a beefy inline spring contained in the stock instead of an AR hammer spring, which requires a lot reinforcement and a redesign of the stock lockup system. I'm also working on making the stock connection joints a dovetail system across the axis of recoil.  Give me a few weeks to prototype and test and I'll drop the files.
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Quoted:
Nice to see someone else getting use from ms 3d builder!  

How are you finding ASA?  I did some form futura apollox and it was ok but the layer adhesion was really bad to the point that layers would break off so cleanly they looked like top layers.


LOL, I use 3D builder more than I'd like to admit. It's really good for jamming stuff together and hollowing stuff out, which is the bulk of how I design....

I'm using Polymaker and I like it a lot. I'm printing at 160/100 - which is all my i3 Mega S will do. My mega X will do 150/90 - and it's... okay? It's in an improvised welding blanket enclosure and I still get some warping and bed adhesion issues.  I haven't had significant issues with layer adhesion, but I also try to be conscious of that when I design stuff - you'll note in my reinforced receiver for this I stuck a screw through straight down through the top- it holds the unlock lever in place but also reinforces the whole top section across the layer grain.

I've been in some development groups for hi-low shells and am working on my own based on purple ramsets, which is exposing some other weak links in this design. I'm working on a MAJOR overhaul right now that converts the hammer system to a beefy inline spring contained in the stock instead of an AR hammer spring, which requires a lot reinforcement and a redesign of the stock lockup system. I'm also working on making the stock connection joints a dovetail system across the axis of recoil.  Give me a few weeks to prototype and test and I'll drop the files.
Jesus dude... but thank you and that is way cool.
Link Posted: 11/17/2022 10:40:46 PM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
This sounds really sketchy, guys.  Y'all be careful.
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Safety 3rd !
Link Posted: 11/17/2022 11:24:54 PM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:


Safety 3rd !
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Quoted:
Quoted:  This sounds really sketchy, guys.  Y'all be careful.


Safety 3rd !


That's true, but make sure it's above looking cool.
Link Posted: 11/18/2022 8:37:33 AM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:


That's true, but make sure it's above looking cool.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:  This sounds really sketchy, guys.  Y'all be careful.


Safety 3rd !


That's true, but make sure it's above looking cool.
Attachment Attached File

Have Fun
Look Cool
Be Safe
Link Posted: 11/18/2022 9:40:00 AM EDT
[#6]
Mine is still in one piece, but haven't had much time to mess with it lately.
Link Posted: 11/20/2022 6:54:29 PM EDT
[#7]
I've run into an issue during test fitment.

My cocking lever seems too long? I can't open the breech past this:

And it is definitely binding on the cocking lever. Anyone else have an issue with this? Any idea how much I should shorten it?

ETA: Decided to trim back the bottom edge thing of the cocking lever "shelf".
Link Posted: 11/29/2022 10:18:18 AM EDT
[#8]









Now sailing!

Inline Ignition Pack: This was developed for hi recoiling, hi-low, signal way-over-there type rounds. It's a full reinforcement pack, incorporating a 1.5" round breech for easy machining from metal on a small lathe or with hand tools.

In the pack:

Receiver - lever unlocked, reinforced locking recess, reinforced and exteneded rear stock attachment points. Lower stock attachment points are still pin type, upper lugs were changed to use m3 screws with m3 nuts epoxied into the receiver lugs.

Hammer - reinforced to be utilized with a stiffer spring in the stock rather than an AR coil spring - think like an SKS arrangement - easily tunable, more power for SPP or ramsets. Receiver will still accept an AR spring type hammer from the original kit if you just want a sturdier build but not inline ignition.

Cocking lever - widened at rear section to allow metal rod reinforcement on both sides. Receiver and stock inletted to allow clearance.

Stock - converted to accept m3 screws for upper attachment, merged into 2 pieces instead of 3, rod arrangement in the joint deleted in exchange for a stronger dovetail joint acting across the direction of recoil. Rear section with QD attachment point also included.

The stock is the most noticeable upgrade, it's seriously sturdy, and makes the whole thing feel a lot more factory.



Also dropped:

Folding Trigger Guard, it's mostly aesthetic and doesn't lock up like it should, but you're not really going to use it are you? Uses m3 screws and nuts for everything.

Dovetail Stock: This works with the original NT79 receiver, or either of my earlier lever unlock versions. It's 2 pieces instead of 3, and has the big sturdy dovetail joint in the middle. Rear section with QD attachment point also included.


Enjoy!
Link Posted: 11/29/2022 12:47:44 PM EDT
[#9]
Update: getting there. Need to trim the barrel tube and buy hardware. I think I'm getting somewhere!
Link Posted: 11/29/2022 2:35:18 PM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:
Update: getting there. Need to trim the barrel tube and buy hardware. I think I'm getting somewhere!
https://i.ibb.co/z2hGGgP/20221129-103307.jpg
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That's looking good!!
Link Posted: 11/29/2022 3:25:53 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:



That's looking good!!
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Thanks!
Man I went and downloaded your new parts pack too, if this receiver breaks on me I'm going to upgrade to that. I just don't feel like tying my printer up for 2 days to print another one when I feel like I'm getting close to being able to use this one.
Link Posted: 12/1/2022 8:19:09 AM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:
Thanks!
Man I went and downloaded your new parts pack too, if this receiver breaks on me I'm going to upgrade to that. I just don't feel like tying my printer up for 2 days to print another one when I feel like I'm getting close to being able to use this one.
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That version will hold up just fine to BP and normal rounds, try to avoid taking the stock on and off a bunch and wearing/breaking the tabs on the back of the receiver. Heavy hi/low rounds that are being developed now, while they're not introducing more pressure to the barrel or presenting a safety concern or anything like that, are heavy recoiling enough that I was beating my tabs and stock apart. The dovetail stock screwed to the receiver instead of pinned is a major upgrade in how solid it all is, and I needed a stronger ignition system for reliably setting off cheap ramsets.

Frankly, unless you're using ramsets or small rifle primers, I wouldn't bother with actually converting to inline ignition - when you want to upgrade get that pack for the receiver, stock, and stronger cocking arm, then use your normal hammer with the AR spring - I didn't change the FCG geometry so it's still compatible.


Also, I know we're all feds here just keeping tabs on each other, but get a load of this guy:

Link Posted: 12/1/2022 12:14:31 PM EDT
[#13]
I actually was planning to use ramsets out of the gate, probably red instead of purple until I see how it holds up.
Link Posted: 12/2/2022 4:33:41 PM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:
I actually was planning to use ramsets out of the gate, probably red instead of purple until I see how it holds up.
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I just dropped the shell design that I'm currently working with on the sea   (NPTShells) . I took a screw apart shell and set it up to accept a 1/4" automotive NPT fitting, chamber the NPT stem for the ramsets and epoxy it into the shell base. Then either use the standalone shell body, or epoxy the female hybrid portion into your 1-1/2 brass tube. I've put close to 100 rounds through one of my bases with no issues at all and no discernible wear to it or the main shell body. There are a few of us developing these as hi-low setups, with 1/4" NPT plugs with various vents, burst disks, etc.

NPT Female Automotive fittings:
NPT Automotive Fittings

Brass for hybrid shell body - you'll want a way to trim to length, I like to use a pipe cutter and chamfer after:
Brass for Hybrid Shells

Plugs  - not fully developed territory so use your own judgement:
Hex Plug
Solid Extended Plug
Link Posted: 12/2/2022 5:33:37 PM EDT
[#15]
This may be a dumb question, but what is a "hi-low" round/projectile?
Link Posted: 12/3/2022 1:46:13 AM EDT
[#16]
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Quoted:  This may be a dumb question, but what is a "hi-low" round/projectile?
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The case of the round essentially has a chamber built into the base of the case, in which the charge is ignited by the primer.  The pressure in the chamber rapidly exceeds the burst pressure of a plug in the chamber, rupturing the plug and allowing the High pressure gas rush into the empty Low pressure void behind the round.  This kicks the projectile out of the bbl w/o requiring high pressure gun bbls, so you can use aluminum, what have you.
Link Posted: 12/5/2022 10:25:32 PM EDT
[#17]
how do you add the washer to prevent primer blow out to the breach face ? its listed in the PDF but never is addressed thank you in advance
Link Posted: 12/6/2022 9:05:22 AM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:
how do you add the washer to prevent primer blow out to the breach face ? its listed in the PDF but never is addressed thank you in advance
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I think most folks are epoxying them. I didn't use one at all and didn't have much trouble with black powder loads - but when I started getting into higher charges, smokeless, and hi-low I did away with the plastic breech face altogether and started making them out of 6061 AL.
Link Posted: 12/8/2022 11:25:55 AM EDT
[#19]
Ugh looks like my new "good" receiver is warped in the trigger area in a way which doesn't allow the trigger to function.

I might be printing the Inline Ignition receiver after all, not that it's a bad thing (other than the use of an entire spool to finally get a good receiver). I think I have my ducks in a row now so hopefully it won't lift and fail like the other 2. Going to print on a raft and probably slow print speed way down so this one actually turns out.
Link Posted: 12/8/2022 11:41:09 AM EDT
[#20]

I have this almost complete. does anyone a link to how to load the shells ?

https://link.shutterfly.com/HbFWxWbWAvb
Link Posted: 12/8/2022 11:47:36 AM EDT
[#21]
Can't link to it here, but in the same place you got the print files there should be a 37mm ammo how-to.
Link Posted: 12/8/2022 2:05:17 PM EDT
[#22]
There's also a couple youtube videos about how to make 37mm loads.
Link Posted: 1/4/2023 9:13:24 AM EDT
[#23]
What epoxy do you guys recommend for the barrel? Preferably something available at Ace/Menards/HD
Link Posted: 1/4/2023 9:56:09 AM EDT
[#24]
I need to dust mine off and do some more playing.

As for epoxy...

MissingImage
Failed To Load Product Data

Link Posted: 1/4/2023 10:39:05 AM EDT
[#25]
I'm really excited because I'm so close. I just need to finish cut the barrel and actually assemble everything.
Link Posted: 1/17/2023 11:34:57 PM EDT
[#26]
@arr199

What spring do you recommend to use with the Inline Ignition hammer? I just realized the hammer doesn't work with the standard AR spring.
Link Posted: 1/18/2023 8:42:50 AM EDT
[#27]
I ended up just pounding out another standard hammer and using an extra power AR spring... but mine is done! I just need a chance to test it, I'm hoping tomorrow nobody will be home and I can test a blank to make sure it actually fires. I need to figure out the casings first, I am using ramsets and the casings designed for them seem to be too far off center (firing pin is just catching the very edge) and the ones for 209 primers are spot on in the center. I'll probably modify one to make it slightly closer to center.

Link Posted: 1/21/2023 2:29:29 PM EDT
[#28]
So while I've been screwing around with my current NT79 (having light primer strikes on ramsets, so I'm upgrading to the spring setup from the Inline Ignition pack, waiting on springs)

I decided to make a sawed-off / shorty grip to go with the Inline Ignition receiver.


Find it floating in the Odd Sea, channel Tugger 82
Link Posted: 2/7/2023 11:49:26 AM EDT
[#29]
Bump.

Dusted mine off today and fired a round or two, then the firing pin washer popped out, and I started getting light strikes again. It would be nice to reach a point where it just worked, even 90% of the time would be awesome. Seems I get a round or two fired, then something craps out.

Link Posted: 2/8/2023 1:06:45 AM EDT
[#30]
Yeah I can't wait to actually FIRE mine, I've gotten it to the point that it is reliable with rimfire blanks (.22LR with bullet removed) but I don't really have anywhere to actually fire off a chalk round with the Ramset.
Link Posted: 3/2/2023 12:36:02 PM EDT
[#31]
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Quoted:
@arr199

What spring do you recommend to use with the Inline Ignition hammer? I just realized the hammer doesn't work with the standard AR spring.
View Quote


Sorry for the delay on this! It'll take a regular hammer and AR spring, and that's honestly what I recommend unless you're using small rifle primers or ramsets and not getting enough power from that. The inline system is powerful, but it can be finicky, and I ended up cranking mine up too strong and breaking a bunch of stuff. I still recommend that receiver and stock setup - it's backwards compatible and a lot tougher in every dimension. Gorgeous build btw!

I used 1 and a half of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQWOLG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With a screw/nut arrangement in the bottom of the cavity to fine tune spring pretension like this:
Link Posted: 3/2/2023 10:24:11 PM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Sorry for the delay on this! It'll take a regular hammer and AR spring, and that's honestly what I recommend unless you're using small rifle primers or ramsets and not getting enough power from that. The inline system is powerful, but it can be finicky, and I ended up cranking mine up too strong and breaking a bunch of stuff. I still recommend that receiver and stock setup - it's backwards compatible and a lot tougher in every dimension. Gorgeous build btw!

I used 1 and a half of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQWOLG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&;psc=1

With a screw/nut arrangement in the bottom of the cavity to fine tune spring pretension like this:
https://i.imgur.com/PzDfzC1.png
View Quote
No worries! I actually found your post with this pic/info on Reddit, and mine is now functional! I was trying to use ramsets and not getting enough power even with an extra-power hammer spring. Now she goes bang, although I haven't had a chance to actually launch anything yet (only fired some blanks for function testing).
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