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Posted: 12/31/2021 9:11:50 PM EDT
Well, it finally happened; I found the mythical cheap used bridgeport. 'Well cared for', 'only machined plastic', 'owner was a little old lady that only drove it to church on Sunday' etc.
Well, the reality is a little harsher; serial number puts it as mid 1970 vintage. and the old girl has seen some serious shit, as evidenced by the draw bar wrench that came with it.  The table is also pretty beat up. It's pretty obvious the machine had a long stint as a second op station, and you can pretty clearly see where the shop had some sort of fixture on it. Whatever wrench they were using to install and remove parts, or maybe the part its self, was smashing into the table and left a lot of dents in the soft iron on either side of the fixture. It's worse then the photo makes it seem. There's nothing to do about it but stone down the high spots and cover the ugly areas with vises.  As is the X/Y gibs are cranked tight and there's still a worrying amount of slop in both axis, and about 80 thou of backlash with the adjustment screws bottomed out on the nuts. I'll swap the 50 year old original nuts with new split nuts, shim the gibs and hope for the best. I still haven't wired it up to find out how fucked the head is, though it did run at the shop when picked up and didn't sound horrible.  There's a billion and one bridgeport rebuild threads out there, but I'll update this one with photos of what I'm sure are more pleasent surprises, if there's interest. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 9:19:33 PM EDT
[#1]
Cool… I’m just a (not particularly skillful) hobbyist - I learned machining on a Bridgeport while taking some ‘machine tool technology’ classes at the high school in Keene, NH about a dozen years ago, and I get to play with one at my local makerspace.
How hard was it to get it moved to your shop? Did you have to hire a rigger? |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 9:22:13 PM EDT
[#2]
jeeze.. that machine is CLEAN compared to most ive seen!
congrats |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 9:52:35 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Cool… I’m just a (not particularly skillful) hobbyist - I learned machining on a Bridgeport while taking some ‘machine tool technology’ classes at the high school in Keene, NH about a dozen years ago, and I get to play with one at my local makerspace. How hard was it to get it moved to your shop? Did you have to hire a rigger? Quote HistoryQuoted: Cool… I’m just a (not particularly skillful) hobbyist - I learned machining on a Bridgeport while taking some ‘machine tool technology’ classes at the high school in Keene, NH about a dozen years ago, and I get to play with one at my local makerspace. How hard was it to get it moved to your shop? Did you have to hire a rigger? The shop I bought it from had a fork lift and were very helpful getting it loaded on my trailer. Unloading it was a harder and I don't have any photos of the process. Basically did it Egyptian style with a combination of a winch anchored to the building, plastic skids and steel pipes to slide it off the trailer, into the shop and across the floor to where it is now. It was a slow process but uneventful. I have a chainfall on the ceiling I can use to assist with pulling the table/saddle/knee off if I decide to tear it down that far. Quoted: jeeze.. that machine is CLEAN compared to most ive seen! congrats To be fair the owners I bought it from really had taken care of it. The wear I'm seeing is just the result of a decades of constant use and operators not really giving a fuck. I knew what I was getting into, I just like to poke fun at the internets obsession with these mythical 'used but perfectly fine' Bridgeports. I don't even like Bridgeports, but hopefully this one is less of a project then the Hardinge lathe turned into. |
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Posted: 1/1/2022 12:35:16 AM EDT
[#4]
Mine was nasty when I bought it, and slightly better when I sold it. It's used as a table for a barrel wrench now.
Backlash is about 10 thousandths in both directions. Yours looks fairly nice.  |
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Posted: 1/1/2022 1:26:03 AM EDT
[#5]
Poor choice of words in a tech forum. AeroE
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Posted: 1/1/2022 10:57:54 AM EDT
[#6]
 Something something wasn't there a 50+ page tread about that in teams?
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Posted: 1/1/2022 4:03:40 PM EDT
[#7]
 Attached FileMy buddy gave me this one just before Thanksgiving. Series 1 with a J head. Mitutoyo DRO works but the face is rough. I need to get a phase converter or VFD, clamps and collets. I believe the head assembly needs some attention (spindle brake, Quill lock, collet key.) He got a newer variable speed Sharpe and didn't need two. 
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Posted: 1/2/2022 1:56:54 AM EDT
[#8]
Looks like honest wear for a 40 year old mill. I made thousands of parts on vertical mills in the 1980s and 1990a before I graduated to CNC mills.
I've run step pulley Bridgeports with the crappy old Bridgeport power feeds, Excello verticals, Southbend but the best was a Bridgeport like yours except with a better power feed. You have a nice one. Enjoy. As I get close to retirement after nearly 40 years I remember what a classmate told me in Tech School, "Old machinsts don't fade away, they just get lathey'" |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 2:03:20 AM EDT
[#9]
Good job turning the knee crank handle backwards. Thats one of the first things I was taught. No one seems to be taught that anymore. Maybe if they ran one every day they would see why we did it.
Sweet mill. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 2:39:24 AM EDT
[#10]
I still need one of those
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Posted: 1/2/2022 3:18:04 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good job turning the knee crank handle backwards. Thats one of the first things I was taught. No one seems to be taught that anymore. Maybe if they ran one every day they would see why we did it. Sweet mill. One of mine got a handwheel with the power feed. The other got converted to 3/4" hex so it shares handles with the vise. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 3:38:47 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/28281/KIMG1049_JPG-2224691.JPG My buddy gave me this one just before Thanksgiving. Series 1 with a J head. Mitutoyo DRO works but the face is rough. I need to get a phase converter or VFD, clamps and collets. I believe the head assembly needs some attention (spindle brake, Quill lock, collet key.) He got a newer variable speed Sharpe and didn't need two. I have a couple of these, one on my Clausing lathe, and another on my Sharp. Work perfectly, easy to setup, and use. Couldnt be happier.  And the bang for the buck is just amazing - I paid $95 a year ago, now $76  ETA - for whatever reason, I cannot post a link to the part on ebay - just search for 3-phase VFD - lots of vendors. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 10:22:52 AM EDT
[#13]
https://www.ebay.com/p/5044067913
Westinghouse Teco I was reluctant to take a chance on Ebay Chinese when I can get a Teco for $151. If it works well for you, that might be fine. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 1:16:27 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ebay.com/p/5044067913 Westinghouse Teco I was reluctant to take a chance on Ebay Chinese when I can get a Teco for $151. If it works well for you, that might be fine. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 1:25:44 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ebay.com/p/5044067913 Westinghouse Teco I was reluctant to take a chance on Ebay Chinese when I can get a Teco for $151. If it works well for you, that might be fine. I'm running Tecos as well. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 1:46:00 PM EDT
[#16]
The VFD discussion is all very relevant to me; the machine has a three phase 240/480 motor on it. I have a RPC and transformer in the shop that'd feed it fine and the varispeed head makes it useable with a fixed input. My current plan is to just wire it up and use it as is, but I'm open to a reasonably priced VFD if it is a significant time saver, IE does phase conversion in place of the RPC, has easily programmed in ramps, set points etc.
Also, is there an accepted practice for running VFDs on variable speed heads like this? Do you set the head somewhere in the middle of its speed range and then only adjust via the VFD? Are there concerns about potentially over speeding the head via the VFD, or do you have to lock out the pulleys? I'm sure there's already a lot of discussions about this on machining specific forums, but I hate them all with a fiery passion. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 1:55:21 PM EDT
[#17]
Nice!
I have a lathe now but still want a mill. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 2:05:44 PM EDT
[#18]
I'm a mechanical engineer at a company that builds custom machinery/automation. We have about as many electrical/automation guys as we have mechanical guys.
I was going to get opinions from one or two of the electrical guys while I'm in the office tomorrow. They tend to have strong opinions about the brands that they use in panels, I also know that supply chain issues have interfered lately. The rule of thumb I usually use is that if it isn't an inverter duty motor, don't go below 40% speed or above 150%. Note that there's no free lunch - as speed goes up you will lose torque and as speed goes down you could get hot. (That's by memory as told to me years ago, I will say that's been safe so far.) The guy who gave me the mill ran it on a static phase converter. When he ran his new (to him) Sharpe the motor started smoking, so he has the motor at the electrical repair place right now. We know that mill was working fine in the previous shop, but that shop had 3 phase. I have used the Bridgeport over the years so I know some of it's quirks. I'm no machinist but my first two jobs had well equipped engineering model shops and the current job has a wide range of equipment and skilled craftsmen, so I can get good advice. Plus a couple of good friends are retired machinists. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 2:11:08 PM EDT
[#19]
I can't speak for a Bridgeport. But for my lathe with VFD, I programmed it for 25% overspeed (75 Hz). Then I set the machine pulley to its second-highest speed and forget about it. A good VFD can produce constant torque in the 30%-100% speed range with sensorless vector control. If my spindle came with pulleys for 220,440, 660, and 880 rpm, then the actual speed range with my VFD and pulley combo is around 44 rpm - 264 rpm (reduced torque) / 264 - 660 rpm (full torque) / 660 - 825 rpm (somewhat more torque than factory). This is essentially the whole range of the machine for the part diameters I cut. If I bog it down then I shift it to a lower gear for the mechanical advantage. I haven't used the back gear in ages... Parting can be done at higher speeds by jockeying the speed control as the cut progresses (speed it up as the cut deepens, and change speeds frequently to knock down chatter).
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Posted: 1/2/2022 2:13:19 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The VFD discussion is all very relevant to me; the machine has a three phase 240/480 motor on it. I have a RPC and transformer in the shop that'd feed it fine and the varispeed head makes it useable with a fixed input. My current plan is to just wire it up and use it as is, but I'm open to a reasonably priced VFD if it is a significant time saver, IE does phase conversion in place of the RPC, has easily programmed in ramps, set points etc. Also, is there an accepted practice for running VFDs on variable speed heads like this? Do you set the head somewhere in the middle of its speed range and then only adjust via the VFD? Are there concerns about potentially over speeding the head via the VFD, or do you have to lock out the pulleys? I'm sure there's already a lot of discussions about this on machining specific forums, but I hate them all with a fiery passion. I'm running a VFD on my Cincinnati Toolmaster, which is a variable speed model, and the VFD just runs at 60hz. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 2:13:34 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The VFD discussion is all very relevant to me; the machine has a three phase 240/480 motor on it. I have a RPC and transformer in the shop that'd feed it fine and the varispeed head makes it useable with a fixed input. My current plan is to just wire it up and use it as is, but I'm open to a reasonably priced VFD if it is a significant time saver, IE does phase conversion in place of the RPC, has easily programmed in ramps, set points etc. Also, is there an accepted practice for running VFDs on variable speed heads like this? Do you set the head somewhere in the middle of its speed range and then only adjust via the VFD? Are there concerns about potentially over speeding the head via the VFD, or do you have to lock out the pulleys? I'm sure there's already a lot of discussions about this on machining specific forums, but I hate them all with a fiery passion. I like the option to use the vfd or the machines variable depending on what I'm doing. You can set vfd to 60hz and use the variable on the machine as designed. I use back gear if I need the torque, but it's nice to just slow down the vfd for a quick countersink or small reamer or something like that. I replaced the drum switch with a panel, so speed control and switches are right there close. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 2:17:29 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Nice! I have a lathe now but still want a mill. Hold out for a Wells-Index or something in the same weight class; Bridgeports are a tad over-hyped (and overpriced as a result.) I lucked out and found a 40 taper knee mill and the difference in rigidity is pretty significant. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 2:48:55 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The VFD discussion is all very relevant to me; the machine has a three phase 240/480 motor on it. I have a RPC and transformer in the shop that'd feed it fine and the varispeed head makes it useable with a fixed input. My current plan is to just wire it up and use it as is, but I'm open to a reasonably priced VFD if it is a significant time saver, IE does phase conversion in place of the RPC, has easily programmed in ramps, set points etc. Also, is there an accepted practice for running VFDs on variable speed heads like this? Do you set the head somewhere in the middle of its speed range and then only adjust via the VFD? Are there concerns about potentially over speeding the head via the VFD, or do you have to lock out the pulleys? I'm sure there's already a lot of discussions about this on machining specific forums, but I hate them all with a fiery passion. I moved my business a while ago, and lost 3-phase capability. Looked into rotary and static phase converters, for many hundreds $$$$. Being a cheap slut, these VFD just made sense. They produce a much cleaner 'real' 3-phase, with lower current draw, than traditional phase converters. Mine just run at normal 60hz, and I use the traditional mechanical variable speed that is built in to the machine. It seems smoother, at low speeds anyway, and the VFD sounds like it doesn't like to put out those big, low-freq. pulses for low rpms. might be ok, just doesn't sound good. Biggest use difference - gotta use the VFD for stop-start, forward-rev. Just put the machine switch in fwd, and leave it there. Good for power tapping tho, just hit the Rev button, the VFD ramps down, stops, reverses, at whatever rate you set up. Much faster, easier, simpler. Actual process with the VFD is - 220 volt 1-phase > VFD > 220 v DC > VFD variable freq 3-phase output via solid state inverter > machine 3-phase input. Clean, efficient solid-state switching power supply. Downside ? Politically incorrect mfgr in China. At $75 /ea. vs. many hundreds for USA made, I guess i'm just a cheap slut, -but I also use Chinese computers / electronics / TV's too. IMHO YMMV |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 5:19:11 PM EDT
[#24]
I'm a out ready to hook up my vfd to my LeBlond lathe. I wish I had a Bridgeport old or not. I have an import
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Posted: 1/3/2022 12:13:06 AM EDT
[#25]
My mill, a 2j Bridgeport, and the saw I described above have never left 60hz. The lathe I have on a VFD occasionally gets stup to 75 or 90hz because it has a native 700rpm max.
As far as your table, it looks great. I'll give the same advice I always do- use it for a while before undertaking some rebuild project. It will narrow your project scope and give you a better feel where to begin. |
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Posted: 1/3/2022 7:52:41 PM EDT
[#26]
I talked to my favorite EE. Hardcore car guy, retired 2 years.
He usually prefers AB Powerflex for industrial stuff. This being a "hobby" application, his only reservation for the Ebay unit is ease of setup - he says a lot of "off brand" stuff can be harder to set up. He said the Teco would be fine. He would prefer to feed 220 instead of 110. I was incidentally at another coworker's shop after work - he is a painter at our place, he does autobody and paint on the side. His shop has a screw air compressor and full booth, the now-retired guy set him up with a 30 HP rotary phase converter. 
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Posted: 1/4/2022 9:10:04 AM EDT
[#27]
I’m running a VFD on my lathe and mill. On the lathe the original vari-drive system was shot so I did a direct drive and use the VFD for speed control with 120hz as max.
On the mill it has a reeves speed control that still work good so the VFD is just a phase converter. @Local I don’t know if you will have the trouble on that Bridgeport head or not but the mass of the reeves drive will fault the drive if I am not careful even with a pretty high accel/decel times. I haven’t done it yet but I really need to add a braking resistor, that mill might need one too. |
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Posted: 1/12/2022 12:38:24 PM EDT
[#28]
I have a bridgeport and (I believe) a jhead that I am currently running off of a static phase convertor. Would a VFD be an upgrade for me? I have to move belts to change speeds on the head.
Thanks! |
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Posted: 1/12/2022 1:03:39 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have a bridgeport and (I believe) a jhead that I am currently running off of a static phase convertor. Would a VFD be an upgrade for me? I have to move belts to change speeds on the head. Thanks! |
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Posted: 1/12/2022 7:23:14 PM EDT
[#30]
I planned to upgrade my lathe at some point so I wanted a solution enough for all. I bought the American Rotary 10hp panel for ~$300 and a Craigslist 7.5hp motor for $100. One day I might need more, but for now this will run my grinder, drill press and Bridgeport all at the same time. My BP is a variable speed 2hp, so the VFD would only make it a bit more user friendly. One day I might try one, if I build up a more modular system. But I'm quite happy with the AR setup.
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Posted: 1/12/2022 10:46:41 PM EDT
[#31]
For an old Bridgeport that table looks cherry.
60 Hz on the VFD for 1 to 1 on the Vari drive. The backlash kinda sucks. How do the lead screws look? If the threads are like razors, you need new lead screws. I'd replace the nuts and screws. A DRO and conventional machine can manage the issue though. How about the ways? That's a deep rabbit hole of scrapping, turcite, straightedges, and time. It all boils down to budget and time. The nice thing about a Bridgeport is the availability of parts and knowledge of how to fix shit. |
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Posted: 1/13/2022 12:55:56 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: For an old Bridgeport that table looks cherry. 60 Hz on the VFD for 1 to 1 on the Vari drive. The backlash kinda sucks. How do the lead screws look? If the threads are like razors, you need new lead screws. I'd replace the nuts and screws. A DRO and conventional machine can manage the issue though. How about the ways? That's a deep rabbit hole of scrapping, turcite, straightedges, and time. It all boils down to budget and time. The nice thing about a Bridgeport is the availability of parts and knowledge of how to fix shit. Like I said, the table is in worse condition then the photos would suggest. There are two large sections on either side of the middle of the table that are very roughly peened from decades of wrenches/parts smacking into it. It definitely prevents a vise from sitting flat on the table, and there's nothing (reasonable) to do about it other then stone down the high spots as best I can and accept the limitations on setup it imposes. The screws appear ok; about 4 thou of wear on the OD of both in the middle of the screws (not a perfect measurement, I know, but the easiest one). The nuts are both totally worn out. I've ordered and received a set of split nuts from H&W but haven't had time to spend doing the swap. I'm optimistic that the new nuts will get my backlash under 10thou, at worst. The Y axis gib looks like normal wear and should be pretty easily shimmed. The X axis shows a lot of wear in only one spot on the gib. I haven't yet sat down to measure it to figure out what the wear actually is, and what to do about it. I already know there's no way I'm spending the time/money/effort to put a new gib in, and as is the adjustment is already totally bottomed out. So, best case is the wear is more even then the appearance of the gib suggests and I can just shim it back into useable range. Worst case is the X stays sloppy and I clean up the machine as best I'm able and sell it to someone who doesn't care for more then I paid for it. |
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Posted: 1/13/2022 1:42:12 PM EDT
[#33]
For VFD's, I'd suggest Invertek. British made, but good (not Lucas electric). I am running one in my Clausing-Colchester lathe. I rewired the whole control system to adapt from 3 phase to single. Very happy with the VFD!
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Posted: 1/14/2022 12:39:10 AM EDT
[#34]
Sounds like you know what you are getting into and what you are doing.
Stone the high spots on the table, replace the nuts and see what you got. Have you checked the table deflection? Kieth Rucker at Vintage Machinery on YouTube shows the process on his Wells Index. How's the TIR on the spindle? That can be fixed DIY if you are brave and the bearings are in good shape. Having the table ground is always an option. It's not expensive relatively speaking. |
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Posted: 1/16/2022 9:49:27 AM EDT
[#35]
I ordered the Teco from the link above at Task Industrial. I got an email from them and my card was charged - then nothing.
10 days later I set an email asking status - no response. Two days after that I called and spoke to a woman who couldn't find anything on my order, she said someone from sales would call back within half an hour. Didn't happen. I called the next day, spoke to the same woman, she connected me with the owner. He told me that he expected to have 7 of the drives coming in early February and one was earmarked for me. Nice guy, clearly having trouble retaining personnel and getting inventory. I cancelled my order. I ordered the Chinese drive from ebay. Should be here this week. My order from H-W Industrial came in (Chuck key, spanner, oil, head rebuild manual). I also got a set of collets, a collet chuck, an insert style face mill (gift from a coworker). I'm still waiting on a clamping kit. I am chomping at the bit to get this set up and running.
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Posted: 1/16/2022 6:26:01 PM EDT
[#36]
Here is my chicom VFD - with my chicom DRO, mounted on my Taiwanese Sharp mill.
Along with my home-made spindle air-wrench, one of the best things I have ever built - and cost amost nothing. If anybody wants more details, just ask.  Attached File Attached FilePlease excuse the mess, I'm a slob. |
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Posted: 2/12/2022 2:30:42 PM EDT
[#37]
Chinese Ebay VFD works great!
 Attached FileI bought a set of collets, a chuck and a clamp set. I was trying to figure out what to get for starters for end mills. An old machinist I know brought his wife's Miata around so I could look at an oil leak for him. He dropped off a few things he thought I could use. Over 100 end mills  Attached File65 pair of parallels plus randoms  Attached File Attached File Attached FilePlus assorted tools, a few hundred taps. He says there is more - only so much room in the Miata. I need to organize this stuff - especially the parallel. 
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Posted: 2/12/2022 2:43:20 PM EDT
[#38]
I could only get ahold of a knock off Bridgeport. Extra x handle in front is nice though.
cheap Amazon vfd running for 2-3 years now.  |
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Posted: 2/12/2022 11:13:07 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Chinese Ebay VFD works great! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/28281/KIMG1188_JPG-2276754.JPG I bought a set of collets, a chuck and a clamp set. I was trying to figure out what to get for starters for end mills. An old machinist I know brought his wife's Miata around so I could look at an oil leak for him. He dropped off a few things he thought I could use. Over 100 end mills https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/28281/KIMG1212_JPG-2276756.JPG 65 pair of parallels plus randoms https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/28281/KIMG1223_JPG-2276758.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/28281/KIMG1224_JPG-2276759.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/28281/KIMG1225_JPG-2276760.JPG Plus assorted tools, a few hundred taps. He says there is more - only so much room in the Miata. I need to organize this stuff - especially the parallel. Those thin parallels are actually really handy and I can't find them anywhere anymore except 2nd hand... |
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Posted: 2/14/2022 9:58:41 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Those thin parallels are actually really handy and I can't find them anywhere anymore except 2nd hand... I bought a set of Brown & Sharpe off EBay for $50. NIB as best I could tell. And they are very handy. |
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Posted: 2/14/2022 6:22:39 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I bought a set of Brown & Sharpe off EBay for $50. NIB as best I could tell. And they are very handy. 1/16" flat? I'm jealous... I don't think anybody sells a set of 1/16" parallels anymore. I've searched high and low. |
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Posted: 2/14/2022 8:58:54 PM EDT
[#42]
I have never verified so take this for what it’s worth but for thin parallels I have heard that metal banding is very consistent in width and make good parallels.
Obviously not for super precision stuff but probably good enough for most work. |
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Posted: 2/14/2022 9:06:38 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have never verified so take this for what it’s worth but for thin parallels I have heard that metal banding is very consistent in width and make good parallels. Obviously not for super precision stuff but probably good enough for most work. Yup. And it can be bent into a curve to work as a spring to keep other parallels in place, etc. Or to avoid a tool in a particular place, etc. IMHO YMMV |
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Posted: 2/15/2022 8:28:36 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yup. And it can be bent into a curve to work as a spring to keep other parallels in place I have used that trick before. |
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Posted: 3/4/2022 4:49:45 PM EDT
[#45]
Went to drop off our "outside display" Bridgeport for blasting and powder coating. This thing followed us back.
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Posted: 3/4/2022 5:39:01 PM EDT
[#46]
Well you have the varry drive and an X axis power feed just put a DRO on it and call it a day. I’d love to have that machine. Also I don’t see the Z axis handle for the knee. Craftsman makes a 3/4 and 7/8 box end wrench. Grab one of those and toss the old draw bar wrench. Great find. Mind if I ask what you paid?
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Posted: 3/4/2022 5:56:53 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well you have the varry drive and an X axis power feed just put a DRO on it and call it a day. I’d love to have that machine. Also I don’t see the Z axis handle for the knee. Craftsman makes a 3/4 and 7/8 box end wrench. Grab one of those and toss the old draw bar wrench. Great find. Mind if I ask what you paid? I must respectfully disagree, sir. THe Z axis handle is in place, simply reversed, to not be a thigh / knee buster. Please look closer at the photo. This is a very common procedure amongst seasoned knee mill operators. Even discussed earlier in this very thread. As far as the drawbar - I made my own pneumatic power wrench from a butterfly rattle gun. Probably the BEST tool /improvement / gadget that I have ever built. Cost - $60 +/- and a few hours. Photos posted earlier in this thread, also. OP - good looking machine - is that actually powder-coated ? That must have been horrendously expensive - total disassembly, cleaning, coating, reassembly. Many hours, big bucks. looks good tho. IMHO YMMV |
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Posted: 3/7/2022 5:07:24 PM EDT
[#48]
For the drawbar... I see a few people here added a pneumatic "wrench".
We install a Mach 1 R8 quick change on all of our knee and bed mills as soon as they're placed. The knee mills also get an air wrench on the knee to go with the original handle. Saves a ton of time when you have to go up and down a lot. |
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Posted: 3/8/2022 1:41:48 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The knee mills also get an air wrench on the knee to go with the original handle. Saves a ton of time when you have to go up and down a lot. |
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Posted: 3/20/2022 9:11:01 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Like an air ratchet? Yes. The drive section of the knee handle gets welded to a socket. |
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