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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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that sales page had me thinking about some of damascusknifemakers' works. he has done some pretty stuff.
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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caught my eye as well.
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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Originally Posted By WIC: knives View Quote |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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LOL, that's right up his alley in numerous regards
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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Originally Posted By sywagon: Not sure if this is her leatherwork, but it looks amazing regardless. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ni0JjFlkGmEYW5id9g1QukyhJrh8lPRiAnqsC9oWDx1IfwMaZam7AYqtQJNe-dTVTesmulPQzyJ041WeuwAdBMy8QKmT-PYRA_Z47LOrmGX_O8aX3NZ3bMVClKMpHWMYrQX_aiK0jqM7NqL-TigmDgfVLtzEjSzH91kjp3-_DhTNPRIo-VXr0a9U-w=s800 Also hard to beat the knife description part "crotch stag butt" from a beavis and butthead perspective. View Quote I was wondering the same about all the leatherwork. I thought the "bear jaw bone" handle looked interesting and painful to actually use. Oh, and the prostitute knife. LOL The Jesse Davis ones are beautiful |
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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Originally Posted By WIC: This isn't me either SecretSquirell View Quote |
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I got a chuckle out of it.
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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Originally Posted By WIC: There is only one distillery of any size doing vodka that I am aware of (Great Lakes/Rehorst) and I have never been a fan of their vodka. Actually, there might be one big one...Minhas Brewery has been branching out into other beverages like the seltzer waters etc. Maybe this is something they are doing now. They do a lot of making on request. View Quote I've heard that it's common for new distilleries to open with vodka because it's faster than beverages that require aging. Maybe there's a new kid on the block? Originally Posted By TriggerGSP: Absolutely. Nitro is one of my favorite all around steels. I initially tested it for use in my saltwater line of knives (fillet/diving), but it’s good at everything. Grind thin stuff post heat treat. They will warp until both sides even out. The first time I did a fillet I called Ed Braun (metallurgist for NJSB) in a panic. I grind one side at a time, and the sumbitch had a bad case of Peyronie’s. He laughed, and told me to just grind the other side. Sure as shit, straight as an arrow. I grind my 6” Kiritsukes so thin you can flex the edge with your fingernail. Zero chipping or cracking. Have to nail the heat treat/cryo though. View Quote The thin ones were warping in my dry ice bath. (I grind pretty much all of my knives hard(unless they're really thick, which I almost never make any)They'd be flat out of the plates and come out of the dry ice shaped like a banana. Lol I've dealt with the grinding to straighten it out stuff. It can be frustrating sometimes. I grind all of my kitchen knives to ~.008" on the edge. On my favorite chef's knife, I took it to.004". It could almost cut paper before I sharpened it. I like aeb-l and 80CrV2 because of the toughness. They can hold up to being thin enough that even if they aren't technically sharp anymore, they'll still cut food ok. I would like to try something that has good toughness but better edge retention than either of them. I think 3v might be a bit of improvement in edge retention while still holding up to being thin. |
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"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . . |
Originally Posted By WIC: No, Top Gear And he punched his producer like the little bitch he was for not giving Clarkson a hot meal after a long cold day on the job and Clarkson lost his job leading the most financially successful TV series the BBC has ever seen because he did what needed to be done dropping that mofo. Boy, writing it out like that makes my earlier comment seem a bit extreme now. I probably wouldn't treat you like that. Might hit you with a soft pillow for your sass. View Quote The best part of that was Hammond and May quitting in solidarity with him. |
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"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . . |
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Originally Posted By DFARM: I've heard that it's common for new distilleries to open with vodka because it's faster than beverages that require aging. Maybe there's a new kid on the block? The thin ones were warping in my dry ice bath. (I grind pretty much all of my knives hard(unless they're really thick, which I almost never make any)They'd be flat out of the plates and come out of the dry ice shaped like a banana. Lol I've dealt with the grinding to straighten it out stuff. It can be frustrating sometimes. I grind all of my kitchen knives to ~.008" on the edge. On my favorite chef's knife, I took it to.004". It could almost cut paper before I sharpened it. I like aeb-l and 80CrV2 because of the toughness. They can hold up to being thin enough that even if they aren't technically sharp anymore, they'll still cut food ok. I would like to try something that has good toughness but better edge retention than either of them. I think 3v might be a bit of improvement in edge retention while still holding up to being thin. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DFARM: Originally Posted By WIC: There is only one distillery of any size doing vodka that I am aware of (Great Lakes/Rehorst) and I have never been a fan of their vodka. Actually, there might be one big one...Minhas Brewery has been branching out into other beverages like the seltzer waters etc. Maybe this is something they are doing now. They do a lot of making on request. I've heard that it's common for new distilleries to open with vodka because it's faster than beverages that require aging. Maybe there's a new kid on the block? Originally Posted By TriggerGSP: Absolutely. Nitro is one of my favorite all around steels. I initially tested it for use in my saltwater line of knives (fillet/diving), but it’s good at everything. Grind thin stuff post heat treat. They will warp until both sides even out. The first time I did a fillet I called Ed Braun (metallurgist for NJSB) in a panic. I grind one side at a time, and the sumbitch had a bad case of Peyronie’s. He laughed, and told me to just grind the other side. Sure as shit, straight as an arrow. I grind my 6” Kiritsukes so thin you can flex the edge with your fingernail. Zero chipping or cracking. Have to nail the heat treat/cryo though. The thin ones were warping in my dry ice bath. (I grind pretty much all of my knives hard(unless they're really thick, which I almost never make any)They'd be flat out of the plates and come out of the dry ice shaped like a banana. Lol I've dealt with the grinding to straighten it out stuff. It can be frustrating sometimes. I grind all of my kitchen knives to ~.008" on the edge. On my favorite chef's knife, I took it to.004". It could almost cut paper before I sharpened it. I like aeb-l and 80CrV2 because of the toughness. They can hold up to being thin enough that even if they aren't technically sharp anymore, they'll still cut food ok. I would like to try something that has good toughness but better edge retention than either of them. I think 3v might be a bit of improvement in edge retention while still holding up to being thin. Are they room temp before the bath? You could try clamping it to a 3/8 bar while it’s in the bath. I’ll be talking to Paul Farner tomorrow. I’ll pick his brain, that’s pretty bizarre. Try Nitro-v, it’s not much more than aeb-l. 3v, or 4v is also an outstanding choice. Or just jump up to Elmax, or Magnacut. |
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Communists aren't people.
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Originally Posted By TriggerGSP: Are they room temp before the bath? You could try clamping it to a 3/8 bar while it’s in the bath. I’ll be talking to Paul Farner tomorrow. I’ll pick his brain, that’s pretty bizarre. Try Nitro-v, it’s not much more than aeb-l. 3v, or 4v is also an outstanding choice. Or just jump up to Elmax, or Magnacut. View Quote When I ht aeb-l, I leave it in the foil, clamp it between the aluminum plates and blow air between the plates until it's cool enough to handle, then pull it out, take it out of the pouch and put it in a bath of dry ice and denatured alcohol until the dry ice is gone (overnight). I never tried clamping them to something in the bath. I plan on switching to liquid nitrogen when I get to setup shop again. Warping is something that I end up dealing with about half of the aeb-l blades I make. I have read somewhere (knifesteelnerds maybe?) that at one point in the process all aeb-l is in a coil and that shape can come back during HT. |
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"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . . |
Originally Posted By DFARM: When I ht aeb-l, I leave it in the foil, clamp it between the aluminum plates and blow air between the plates until it's cool enough to handle, then pull it out, take it out of the pouch and put it in a bath of dry ice and denatured alcohol until the dry ice is gone (overnight). I never tried clamping them to something in the bath. I plan on switching to liquid nitrogen when I get to setup shop again. Warping is something that I end up dealing with about half of the aeb-l blades I make. I have read somewhere (knifesteelnerds maybe?) that at one point in the process all aeb-l is in a coil and that shape can come back during HT. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DFARM: Originally Posted By TriggerGSP: Are they room temp before the bath? You could try clamping it to a 3/8 bar while it’s in the bath. I’ll be talking to Paul Farner tomorrow. I’ll pick his brain, that’s pretty bizarre. Try Nitro-v, it’s not much more than aeb-l. 3v, or 4v is also an outstanding choice. Or just jump up to Elmax, or Magnacut. When I ht aeb-l, I leave it in the foil, clamp it between the aluminum plates and blow air between the plates until it's cool enough to handle, then pull it out, take it out of the pouch and put it in a bath of dry ice and denatured alcohol until the dry ice is gone (overnight). I never tried clamping them to something in the bath. I plan on switching to liquid nitrogen when I get to setup shop again. Warping is something that I end up dealing with about half of the aeb-l blades I make. I have read somewhere (knifesteelnerds maybe?) that at one point in the process all aeb-l is in a coil and that shape can come back during HT. Maybe cryo after first temper? Not sure. Pretty interesting though, and now I have to find an answer. Haha. |
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Communists aren't people.
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Originally Posted By TriggerGSP: Maybe cryo after first temper? Not sure. Pretty interesting though, and now I have to find an answer. Haha. View Quote I never tried tempering before the cold treatment because I thought that it would stabilize the retained austenite and the dry ice might not be cold enough to convert it. I think of the cryo/sub zero treatment as a continuation of the quench. I can usually get my blades pretty straight by counter bending the blades in the second+ temper cycles, but the fillet knives just wouldn't straighten out. |
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"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . . |
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Originally Posted By DFARM: I never tried tempering before the cold treatment because I thought that it would stabilize the retained austenite and the dry ice might not be cold enough to convert it. I think of the cryo/sub zero treatment as a continuation of the quench. I can usually get my blades pretty straight by counter bending the blades in the second+ temper cycles, but the fillet knives just wouldn't straighten out. View Quote Martensitic stainless is cryo’d directly after quench. Tool steels, and air hardening steels after the first temper. I don’t believe that’s a hard rule though. Do you still have the warped blades? Jeff Mutz has had some luck spot heating to straighten. I’ve never tried it personally. |
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Communists aren't people.
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Originally Posted By TriggerGSP: Martensitic stainless is cryo’d directly after quench. Tool steels, and air hardening steels after the first temper. I don’t believe that’s a hard rule though. Do you still have the warped blades? Jeff Mutz has had some luck spot heating to straighten. I’ve never tried it personally. View Quote I still have them, but I sold my house and haven't replaced it yet, so they're in storage. |
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"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . . |
Originally Posted By DFARM: I still have them, but I sold my house and haven't replaced it yet, so they're in storage. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DFARM: Originally Posted By TriggerGSP: Martensitic stainless is cryo’d directly after quench. Tool steels, and air hardening steels after the first temper. I don’t believe that’s a hard rule though. Do you still have the warped blades? Jeff Mutz has had some luck spot heating to straighten. I’ve never tried it personally. I still have them, but I sold my house and haven't replaced it yet, so they're in storage. Sure be cool to figure it out. When you find them, let me know if you want to try to tag team a solution. |
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Communists aren't people.
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View Quote Glad someone was able to get tacos! Nice shot! |
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Originally Posted By rbb2: https://i.imgur.com/S9AeG20.jpg View Quote Knife and food look great! |
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Originally Posted By CastleBravo91: Added 2 new balisongs to the collection. These were actually hand made, in the Phillipines, by a Phillipino guy(s). Blades are made of ground down leaf springs. On the left the inlays are bone, but I don't know what from. It is actually highly flippable although I'm not sure exactly how much I want to do that. On the right the inlays are narra wood and bone. This one is quite stiff so it does not flip at all. I got them because "I have a bunch of flippers, might as well get a genuine artifact for posterity. https://i.ibb.co/nb0GRRR/20220921-004928.jpg https://i.ibb.co/XVG01s6/20220921-005042.jpg Full family shot. https://i.ibb.co/hcg70DM/2022-09-2101-07-211794820069370956212.jpg View Quote Impressive! |
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Originally Posted By TriggerGSP: Sure be cool to figure it out. When you find them, let me know if you want to try to tag team a solution. View Quote It'll be a while, but I'll definitely try to remember. |
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"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . . |
YNWA
Show Me Yo Shanks http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1852554_A_GD_Knife_Thread____EDC__Rotation__yes__carry_rotations_are_a_real_thing__or_Edged_Erotica__.html |
Originally Posted By TriggerGSP: Just wrapped up this Nitro-v fillet. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/479088/497A549C-BF43-4814-9C07-FF08F99AD119_jpe-2533117.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/479088/25AD9BF0-558E-4AAD-9518-1D2924E21FCD_jpe-2533118.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/479088/88529FC6-17F1-4801-BC12-780822CE217E_jpe-2533119.JPG View Quote I like how the scales look like waves hitting a beach |
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YNWA
Show Me Yo Shanks http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1852554_A_GD_Knife_Thread____EDC__Rotation__yes__carry_rotations_are_a_real_thing__or_Edged_Erotica__.html |
YNWA
Show Me Yo Shanks http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1852554_A_GD_Knife_Thread____EDC__Rotation__yes__carry_rotations_are_a_real_thing__or_Edged_Erotica__.html |
YNWA
Show Me Yo Shanks http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1852554_A_GD_Knife_Thread____EDC__Rotation__yes__carry_rotations_are_a_real_thing__or_Edged_Erotica__.html |
Originally Posted By rbb2: Also, picked up a knife that had my son's birth day and month, but wrong year. Stumbled into a small Sebenza 21 plain Jane a while ago that had my daughter's birthday exactly. https://i.imgur.com/GhRzm68.jpg View Quote Awesome blade shape |
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YNWA
Show Me Yo Shanks http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1852554_A_GD_Knife_Thread____EDC__Rotation__yes__carry_rotations_are_a_real_thing__or_Edged_Erotica__.html |
Originally Posted By Star_Scream: I like how the scales look like waves hitting a beach View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Star_Scream: Originally Posted By TriggerGSP: Just wrapped up this Nitro-v fillet. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/479088/497A549C-BF43-4814-9C07-FF08F99AD119_jpe-2533117.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/479088/25AD9BF0-558E-4AAD-9518-1D2924E21FCD_jpe-2533118.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/479088/88529FC6-17F1-4801-BC12-780822CE217E_jpe-2533119.JPG I like how the scales look like waves hitting a beach Good eye. That was the plan. |
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Communists aren't people.
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Originally Posted By DFARM: WISCONSIN! That's a good looking fillet knife. I've struggled with a couple fillet knives and haven't managed to make one that didn't warp yet. Lol(I used .062" aeb-l) Have you noticed a significant difference in toughness or edge retention between nitro-v and aeb-l? View Quote Oh good something on topic and not feet |
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YNWA
Show Me Yo Shanks http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1852554_A_GD_Knife_Thread____EDC__Rotation__yes__carry_rotations_are_a_real_thing__or_Edged_Erotica__.html |
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Originally Posted By DFARM: When I ht aeb-l, I leave it in the foil, clamp it between the aluminum plates and blow air between the plates until it's cool enough to handle, then pull it out, take it out of the pouch and put it in a bath of dry ice and denatured alcohol until the dry ice is gone (overnight). I never tried clamping them to something in the bath. I plan on switching to liquid nitrogen when I get to setup shop again. Warping is something that I end up dealing with about half of the aeb-l blades I make. I have read somewhere (knifesteelnerds maybe?) that at one point in the process all aeb-l is in a coil and that shape can come back during HT. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DFARM: Originally Posted By TriggerGSP: Are they room temp before the bath? You could try clamping it to a 3/8 bar while it’s in the bath. I’ll be talking to Paul Farner tomorrow. I’ll pick his brain, that’s pretty bizarre. Try Nitro-v, it’s not much more than aeb-l. 3v, or 4v is also an outstanding choice. Or just jump up to Elmax, or Magnacut. When I ht aeb-l, I leave it in the foil, clamp it between the aluminum plates and blow air between the plates until it's cool enough to handle, then pull it out, take it out of the pouch and put it in a bath of dry ice and denatured alcohol until the dry ice is gone (overnight). I never tried clamping them to something in the bath. I plan on switching to liquid nitrogen when I get to setup shop again. Warping is something that I end up dealing with about half of the aeb-l blades I make. I have read somewhere (knifesteelnerds maybe?) that at one point in the process all aeb-l is in a coil and that shape can come back during HT. yeah, AEBL loves to warp. clamp it to a piece of hardened 1084 .250" with small machinist clamps them into the LN |
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fortis fortuna adiuvat
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Originally Posted By M41A: https://i.imgur.com/P3CfoVh.jpg View Quote I love the looks of those fat spear blades. |
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Yeah, that's a good looker.
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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View Quote Right? |
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Metus improbos compescit, non clementia
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