Quoted: I just took over a contract for soundproofing to DCID standards, but I don't think you want to go that far.  I'd suggest maybe testing your walls to see if there is insulaiton between.  Pull off an electrical outlet cover and maybe slice some of the drywall away around it.  Possibly go in there with a borescope and look around, but that shouldn't be necessary..  If not spray some insulation in there.  I'm presuming that you rent, so do it in a way that won't be overtly noticable when you move out.  That is to say, be careful where and how you put holes in your wall. That should dampen the sound pretty well. We have all of the answers.

Too bad for me I own my home. I even had it built so I know how it was constructed and yes there is insulation

One of the quietest rooms I have ever been inside was a new construction 2x6" framed room with blown-in cellulose fiber insulation under a membrane.  That is some "dense mass".  If you coupled that with some Dynamat, you would be well on your way to some effective sound proofing.  However, sound waves may still conduct through other mediums, such as pipes, or any other uninsulated items--think attic or crawl space.  It is quickly sounding cheaper to move into an isolated structure.

I need to do the same sort of thing, since my master swinger parlor is on the corner of a busy street.  In this town, they are sound proofing entire houses in the airport flight path.  When I get closer to remodel time, I will do some research on how they did those houses.  I know I will have to address exterior walls and the attic.  

Good luck.  

Clean_cut?

Quoted: Quoted: I just took over a contract for soundproofing to DCID standards, but I don't think you want to go that far.  I'd suggest maybe testing your walls to see if there is insulaiton between.  Pull off an electrical outlet cover and maybe slice some of the drywall away around it.  Possibly go in there with a borescope and look around, but that shouldn't be necessary..  If not spray some insulation in there.  I'm presuming that you rent, so do it in a way that won't be overtly noticable when you move out.  That is to say, be careful where and how you put holes in your wall. That should dampen the sound pretty well. We have all of the answers. Too bad for me I own my home. I even had it built so I know how it was constructed and yes there is insulation

Sounds like you need to use 5/8" gypsum board then.  And ask them nicely to turn that shit down.

Since it's the sub that's bothersome, none of what's been suggested will work well if you share ceiling or floor joists, or have other connecting members (he he).

Low frequency sound waves have to be blocked by increasing mass and decoupling the two structures (your place and theirs).

Source reduction and/or limiting play to certain hours is the most efficient fix.  Get to know your neighbors and tell them to turn it the f*ck down when it's time to go to bed.

Or, skunk scent in their air intakes...

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I just took over a contract for soundproofing to DCID standards, but I don't think you want to go that far.  I'd suggest maybe testing your walls to see if there is insulaiton between.  Pull off an electrical outlet cover and maybe slice some of the drywall away around it.  Possibly go in there with a borescope and look around, but that shouldn't be necessary..  If not spray some insulation in there.  I'm presuming that you rent, so do it in a way that won't be overtly noticable when you move out.  That is to say, be careful where and how you put holes in your wall. That should dampen the sound pretty well. We have all of the answers. Too bad for me I own my home. I even had it built so I know how it was constructed and yes there is insulation Sounds like you need to use 5/8" gypsum board then.  And ask them nicely to turn that shit down.

I'm not sure about the fire codes in NM, but since it is the party wall it should be constructed with 5/8" or even double 5/8" depending on the type of wood used.

Modifying this wall could lead to some legal problems should a fire occur so codes should definetly be checked out before you do any reconstruction.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I just took over a contract for soundproofing to DCID standards, but I don't think you want to go that far.  I'd suggest maybe testing your walls to see if there is insulaiton between.  Pull off an electrical outlet cover and maybe slice some of the drywall away around it.  Possibly go in there with a borescope and look around, but that shouldn't be necessary..  If not spray some insulation in there.  I'm presuming that you rent, so do it in a way that won't be overtly noticable when you move out.  That is to say, be careful where and how you put holes in your wall. That should dampen the sound pretty well. We have all of the answers. Too bad for me I own my home. I even had it built so I know how it was constructed and yes there is insulation Sounds like you need to use 5/8" gypsum board then.  And ask them nicely to turn that shit down. I'm not sure about the fire codes in NM, but since it is the party wall it should be constructed with 5/8" or even double 5/8" depending on the type of wood used. Modifying this wall could lead to some legal problems should a fire occur so codes should definetly be checked out before you do any reconstruction.

Good point.

I briefly scanned one of the listed sites and they mentioned mass loaded vinyl, similar to automotive dynamat.  For existing walls, they suggest installing a layer of MLV over the existing drywall, and then installing another layer of drywall on top.  You could also install two layers of MLV.

My problem is that one wall I have to soundproof has a window.  Double pane glass won't help too much, unless it it really thick.  Dilemma.........

Hi, and welcome to ARFCOM.  I would say that you have three choices:

1.  Ask them nicely and if they don't comply, call the police.  (no cost solution-just cowboy up)

2.  Buy a bigger stereo with a huge subwoofer, mount the speakers on the common wall, and play it while they are trying to sleep.  When they complain, tell them you are willing to make them a deal.  (definately the most fun)

3.  Spend lots of time and money trying to block the noise they are causing.  (probably futile)

Honestly, I don't think you will ever succeed in getting rid of it by adding soundproofing to your wall.  Have you heard some of the "killer" auto sound systems that folks ride around with these days?  You can still hear the bass from a block away after it has traveled through a block of air, through the walls of your home, and is still plenty loud.

If you don't want to tear into the wall, you can also reduce the sound considerably by putting a thin layer of dynamat-like backing right onto the wall and then drywalling right over it.  A second layer of drywall alone does wonders, but the rubber/foil layer between will provide additional deadening.

Ask your neighbor to hang carpet or acoustic insulation panels on his side of the wall, glue two layers of sheetrock to his walls, floors and ceilings, and you might reduce the sound transmission.  He is causing the problem, let him help fix it.

How much money are you willing to spend on the problem?

  www.foamorder.com/acoustic.html

Or glue egg crate on the walls.
It may not work but in an apt. your choices are limited.
Jim

Quoted: Can anyone translate these numbers   http://www.acoustiblok.com/images/staggered-stud.jpg

What the numbers are telling you is that high frequencies are easier to deaden than low frequencies.  Even human speech (singing) is strongly attenuated (~60 dB attenuation at 1kHz).  The thing is, even with their product, you will only be able to deaden their subwoofer by about 20 dB.

The way this sometimes works, in terms of human perception, is that it makes your room quieter - except for their subwoofer.  As your room gets quieter, you notice their subwoofer more than ever because the background noise level is lower.

20 dB attenuation is significant but if they are putting out 100 dB things are still going to be rattling & bouncing.  

Do you rent or own?  If you rent, you have still rights AND your landlord has a responsibility to keep them quiet.  I think adding significant sound-proofing to a home you do not own should be discussed with your landlord.  It will cost money and you'll really need his approval (in writing!).