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Owned it two weeks and the tire was wore already? Tell me it was used, otherwise I'd suspect HD is using salt water taffy as road rubber.
Glad you're OK................. |
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You know they say, fall off you have to get back on. Well I hope everything come out ok.
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It's an '01 25,000 or so miles on it. |
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Good deal. |
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You originally from WI deej? |
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Glad you're okay man. Love the bike. Now you have an excuse to paint it.
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But I LIKED that paint color. Besides, there is a lot more paint that is OK than scratched. |
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It's pretty similar to that Maroon/Wine color on my Shadow but I think Honda's version is a tad darker. Like you said, it'll buff out. That'll give you some exercise to work the stiffness out of your elbow.
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Please do not go back to the Dunrock tires on that. My Sportster was almost new when I got it and had the stock Dunlops. I switched to Metzeler ME880's. What a world of difference. I swear to you, if they make them in your size, GET THEM! You will not regret it. I am a lot more confident in the rain with these, than I ever was with the Dunrocks. I cannot say enough about them.
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+1, except I run Avons on mine. They don't last long, but they're stiiiiiiiicky. EDIT: And mine's not a Sportster (well, the motor is...kinda). Anyway, the point is his tires suck. |
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Avons are good. I hear they are about the same for grip as the Metzeler's, but the Metz. last longer. I almost went with the Avons, but at almost $200 for installation alone, I wanted something that I could keep a little longer. |
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Yes it is! You have the heart of an XL. All the rest is just parts. |
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Why the hell would it cost $200 to get a tire put on? |
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I don't ride my bike a whole lot (shit, I'm still waiting to get it back from the builder after I dumped it), so the wear isn't really an issue. I've heard similar things about Metzeler's, and I might give them a serious look when it comes time to change the tires again. For rain, I've got a buddy that swears by Continentals. He won't run anything else on his FXR. They're not particularly expensive either, from what I understand. |
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Paging KirkP, KirkP you presence is requested in GD ETA: Glad your ok, sucks about your bike. |
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It was front and rear. I was quoted about an hour of labor on the phone- from the stealership. When I took the bike up there, they said an hour each. I agreed because I wanted it done. When I went back they started bitching because I went from the stock 150 to a 160 and it took the tech longer to get it seated on the rim. They tried to charge me more, but I told to them to fuck off. I was quoted a price and that was that. Then they got me for something else, some kind of parts, anyway it was like $183 or whatever by the time I got out the door. |
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So, did you let off the rear brake, or did you keep it locked until you came to a stop? Did the rear tire even lock at all?
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Honestly I don't know. I didn't get the symptoms of a rear tire lockup, but the result sure as shit look like a rear tire lock up. I'm actually really fucking puzzled how it happened. ETA: And I let off the rear brake before I came to a stop. The bike was about 20 yards from me when I stopped. |
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No, but I've been known to visit the East Troy/Whitewater/Elkhorn/Ft. Atkinson area. |
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Wow, what a rip off. It takes me no more than 30 minutes total to change front and rear tires and balance in my garage. Most of that time is removal and reinstallation of the wheels. |
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Reason I asked is, if you let off the rear brake before you came to a stop (or kind of close), most bikes will "snap" when the back wheel catches up with the front wheel. Most guys do a flying W off the bike at this point. |
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Glad your ok Pita. Call me if I can do anything to help out (other than come get your lazy butt out of the ditch).
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When you were sliding, were you in front of the bike or behind it? Many times when people lock up the rear, they instinctively let off the rear brake. By the time they let off, the motorcycle is sideways, it now regains traction instantly, violently straightening the bike back out, and throwing the rider over the high side. |
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IF you think it is fried best to not ride it.If you have someone willing to pick you up trailer it home.
running it with an issue unless it is an emergency is bad news glad u r ok |
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I know how to ride . I didn't high side, bike went down to the right and I went down with it. |
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OK, how bout a 1000 rounds of 5.56? |
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Sorry just burned all mine up at the class you should have been to. |
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You walked away, man that is great scooter looks not so bad also.
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I would have, if ya wouldn't have had it Memorial day Weekend...what kinda crack do you think you're smoking that I could get off work Memorial day weekend? |
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Did you ask them for a reference to a legitimate tire place as you left? |
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Pita,
Get your ass back on COD4! Glad you are ok. I have a question. What kind of pants were you wearing? How did they do to protect you skin? Just the Sweatshirt on top? What kind of gloves? And, I imagine you did have your helmet on? |
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Glad it wasn't any worse than it was. The tire wear is a direct result of the trailer and it didn't help when it came to hauling that 800lb bike down to a stop. Towing a trailer will drop rear tire life to about half. It looks like it is still wearing the stock Dunlop 402's (Geezer Glide riders like 'em for the white wall). These are a touring tire built for longevity rather than sticking to the road (usual life is around 8 to 10K without trailer). It's not a bad tire for what it is, but their limitations have to be compensated for. Learn to stay off the rear brake. The FL pedal design transfers an incredible amount of torque and thus very easy to lock up. A down shift combined with wet pavement will lock up the stock Dunlops too. When you're up again practice riding the bike without touching the rear brake. Although not Sport bike powerful the front brake has plenty of power to lock the front tire. |
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Have to disagree with you there. Even if you locked the rear wheel, New helmet, time, too. Glad you are OK. |
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I ran the 880's on a Road King for a while. I won't do it again. Very bad tire life on a FL sized bike. The center section wears very fast. Although the tires had about half the tread left at 4K they became very squirrelly. Taking a curve and rolling onto the side of the tire was like rolling up onto a step and caused the bike to do a little side step while the contact patch was at about an inch at that point. A very bad feeling in the middle of a curve and worse in the wet. They work well on lighter bikes, but I won't run one on a heavy bike again. I'm trying a set of the Dunlop Elite III's now. The same tread pattern as the Metzler, but with much better life. I've got about 4K on a set now and they still look great. YMMV. |
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Possibly just a lifter bled down. They will sound like the bike is coming apart for a while until it pumps back up. |
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The crash bars will usually hit the pavement first pulling the tire completely off the ground before the bike falls more than half way down. Makes it easier to pick them up after a parking lot tip-over. |
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Pussy. |
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Pics don't look too bad. Glad you're not hamburger. Stay safe and keep that helmet on.
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Sorry to hijack, but what is someone supposed to do in that situation? I had this happen to me (those Dunlops do SUCK, unfortunately, mine also has new tread) and felt a little snap, but I never got more than 20* off center. I wanted to grab the rear brake because on a previous bike where in my infinite wisdom I declined to use the rear brake at all I locked up the front tire, skidded to a halt with AIR UNDER MY ASS!!! I stopped 6in away from the bumper of a Chevy Lumina. Scared the hell out of me. If you would prefer not to continue the hijack, please pm me the advice. |
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Well, I'm home now. We got it upright and trailered home. It's not NEARLY as bad as I first anticipated. Covered in mud, but right now it looks like just a lower fairing and a set of crashbars, oh and a windshield. But that is about it. Crash bars are chewed to shit, but that is what they are for. All things considered, it's all good. |
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Get off the brake before you get way off center. The book says ride the bike to a stop on rear tire lockup if I'm not mistaken. I usually prefer the don't lock it up and you won't have to worry about it school of thought. |
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Love you to sweetie. Bitch |
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Pita hope your ok buddy. How much did you have to pay your Dad for coming to get your ass!
Hope the HD is ok as well. Keep us posted. |
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Just the gas to get back. Trailer was borrowed from the HD dealership at free-99. I'm sure I wouldn't have needed to pay him that either, but I felt bad about the whole deal. |
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Other than hitting the rear brake you did just fine other than modulating the front brake (as soon as the tire loses traction the brakes are usless anyways). That's the way it's supposed to work. If you do have the rear locked up and the bike is starting to swap ends then do not let off that rear brake. If you do the gyroscopic principle will cause the bike to want to right itself as soon as the rear tire starts to roll again. This snaps the bike upright in an instant and catapults the rider over the top. In a perfect world you would hit the rear brake first as that's where the weight is. As soon as the bike's weight starts to shift forward you let off the rear and apply more front brake. In a panic situation it's all but impossible to do this so just get used to using the front brake as the primary stopper. |
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I am glad you are okay Pita and your Motorcycle came out with little damage.
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