GM Vortec engines are very sensitive in regards to fuel pressure.  Sounds like you've got a fuel pump starting to flake out.

Quoted: Quoted: I've replaced in-tank fuel pumps with external electric ones with no problem.  No need to drop the tank.  They just sound funny when you first turn the key on. How's that work exactly?  I don't drive this truck everyday (my wife and I ride to work together in her car) so I might be willing to attempt fixing it myself.  My dad just had the pump replaced on his 98 Z71... it was over $700.

I replaced an in-tank pump on a 98 2500 Chevy and the pump itself was almost $300, so it does not surprise me about the $700 price tag although it does make you want to puke.  Good luck getting home.  Some vacation huh?

Oh, by the way, it does sound like the fuel pump that is causing your problems.  

This is a common problem with GM fuel pumps, at least that was my finding when I was in the market.  However, it didn't stop me from buying one.  Mine is at 167,000, and as far as I know, has the original pump.  This being said, it's a '94, and thus a TBI, so I'm not sure if the fuel pump doesn't have to work as hard as the 96s and later with EFI.

+1 on fuel pump. Very common in those trucks

Quoted: Quoted: Update? Is it fixed? Just sent you an IM. THANK YOU so much for the help.  I've always liked this website, but today I saw first hand why this place is so great.  It was really nice having someone check up on us to make sure we made it somewhere to have the truck looked at. Everyone else: Thanks again for the help.  We made it to Harrison, AR.  The truck ran great the whole time.  The mechanic looked it over and couldn't find anything wrong.  The only error codes that showed up were the ones I triggered when I tried by-passing sensors to see if I could trick it into starting (as advised earlier in the thread).  Those error codes weren't listed as current.  The only current one was the fuel gauge sensor, which has been acting up for a long time... and wouldn't cause this problem anyway.  We shut it off and cranked several times and it worked fine. This is our last night in the cabin... I'll try cranking it in the morning.  If it starts, I'll just leave it running until we're ready to leave.  I'll give y'all one more update when we get home. Chad

Chad,

There's a VERY real possibility that if your fuel gauge sender's acting up that there's corrosion on it, from moisture in the gas.

This CAN also make fuel PUMPS seize up / act funky.....  Water in gas is BAD. I had the pump in my 91 T-Bird just STOP one day, a couple years ago.  Took it out - All rusty inside.  Might just be why your truck's running intermittantly.

I'd not dismiss the pump, just yet.....  

John

I had the EXACT same problem on my 88 suburban, it would start and run for 5 sec. then die, so i started it with throttle down and drove it, this only happened a couple times a month. Then one day i went to start and, nothing, pulled the starter out, replaced it, now it works fine, cept the tranny just burned up the clutch plates

Lots of great suggestions... I'm going to print this whole thread when I get home and see what I can figure out.

If it is the fuel, I just replaced one of mine that was a in-tank GM pump.  Most of the quotes I got where aroud what you said (the part was $250-$300 at dealers around here).  I kep bidding on new pumps on ebay (not removed or rebuilt--new in the box).  This was an extra truck so I was in no hurry.  After for monthes, I finally bid on one with few other bidders.  Long story short--Pump cost me $76.00.  Took me around an hour to do it myself (This was on a truck and I just removed the bed to access the fuel pump).  Of course, you should drop the tank and clean it, but I skipped this part.

Dan

Buy an in-line electric fuel pump, locate under vehicle close to the tank if possible, often can install where the fuel filter is if located under the vehicle so you're dealing with rubber hose rather than cutting a metal fuel line.  Then ground to vehicle and run hot wire to ignition circuit.  Make sure connections are leak free.  When you turn the key to start you'll hear a bit of a whine while the pump pressurizes.  It will pull gas through the dead pump.  I've done this at least twice that I can remember.

It is a $50 fix in many cases and will outlast the vehicle.

We have this setup on a work truck.  Several drivers, and "run hard and put up wet" type of treatment.  The aux pump works just fine.

After my wife's pump died, I am thinking of putting one of these on each truck so I can at least get the truck home without bringing it in on the hook every time I have intank pump problems.

BTW, I have seen more fuel related problems in the last 6 months than in the last 20 years of driving.  Me thinks the gas distributors are cutting corners on QC.

This external pump sounds like a cheap fix, but check the pressure specs for the injector inlet to make sure it jibes.

I didn't reply before, not being familiar with the vehicle -- but will now.  I have had these symtems; This was my deal:

90'ish Subaru Legacy, injected, died immediatly after good start.  No water in fuel or filter.  Removed in-tank pump which tested good.    

Checked fuel pump circuit -- You guessed it.

Ran new circuit/wire to pump from ignition source, $5 fix.

I'm way late on this thread , but I'd put money on the problem being
in the Passlock theft deterrent system .  Unlike the earlier systems that
used a resistor at the base of the key . Passlock uses the rotation of the
lock cyl as the major input . It's either the hall effect sensors on the cyl or the
tiny wires that feed the signal to the BCM . I've seen both types of failures .

Less common is a failure of the class II serial data between the BCM and VCM
but its also a possibility .  The problem with this type of failure is that after
a couple of start attempts without the signal it will lock the system for an hour .
So even if the signal returns that vehicle still won't start .

The way this failure usually plays out is that you get the start and stall within
2 seconds . Then it will start and run on the restart . Most people ignore the
start-stall and dismiss it as a glitch . Then it progresses to the multiple failures
and the hour lockout . that's when most tow it in . Then there are situations like
yours where it eventually starts after a few hrs of trying .

If my guess is right , you should see another start and stall in the next 10 -15
key cycles .

Quoted: GM Vortec engines are very sensitive in regards to fuel pressure.  Sounds like you've got a fuel pump starting to flake out.

+1

Same thing happened to me....

Except mine is a LT1, not a votec....

Quoted: Buy an in-line electric fuel pump, locate under vehicle close to the tank if possible, often can install where the fuel filter is if located under the vehicle so you're dealing with rubber hose rather than cutting a metal fuel line.  Then ground to vehicle and run hot wire to ignition circuit.  Make sure connections are leak free.  When you turn the key to start you'll hear a bit of a whine while the pump pressurizes.  It will pull gas through the dead pump.  I've done this at least twice that I can remember. It is a $50 fix in many cases and will outlast the vehicle.

My Jeep Cherokee lost its in tank fuel pump on the trail. Someone had an inline pump from a Ford. We did this fix. Got me home and I ran it for 3 weeks until I had time to drop the tank and fix it.

A spare inline pump is a great spare part to carry with you.

I just wanted to add a final update to let y'all know I made it home and the truck ran fine the whole way back.

Thanks again for all the suggestions... I'll start looking at each one and see if I can figure out what's going on.

Chad

I've had numerous problems over the last couple of years with fuel filters getting clogged. The company recommends 30000 mi replacement, I've gone to < 25000 on all vehilces. Try that first. it's a cheap fix.
My wife is from Arkansas, you don't want to get stuck in Arkansas. (banjo music)

leroy

Glad you made it back without incident.