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You will see alot of diesel being B5 soon.  B10 in the future.
I know that we have to keep b100 heated to a certain temp or it will jell.

B100 does use different elastomers than regular diesel.

LDT-465 my good man.   Hercules, White, Continental, etc...


You know you want to.  Join the OD green side and together we will rule the galaxy...

tag

good bio will pass every chemical, acid, bioreactivity test dino diesel will and it wont cause any problems.  But it takes alot of work to make really good bio.  Most people half ass it at some point and then push some methenal, meth oxide, lye, glycern.....through their engine and all hell brakes loose.  Newer high pressure systems will dislike the poisons sooner than old engines.

Don't  burn WVO, you see all these tree huggers writting blogs and books about driving across the country to prove it works but almost all of them end up rebuilding the engine soon after.  I like my engine to make it through an oil change or two.

No, it doesn't pass thermal stability.  Period.  That is what makes it hard on injection pumps.



And it is METHANOL.  Methenal is the IUPAC name for formaldehyde.



 

My next big purchase will be a Wolverine tech centrifuge for cleaning WMO.  Picked up about 450 gallons of it last year and I still need to clean it.

You can still get WMO for free if you ask around enough.

I've been reading this along with the naysayers.

I think the truth is right here in this post. Most homemade bio is junk.  One of the best engines for bio is the late 90s cummins 5.9l used in the Dodge Rams.  I also own a Mercedes 190D which will burn raw sewage if you push it into it (totally mechanical system).  And the stories about the 7.3l Ford's abound.  Do not put bio in those or you will be changing out your lift pump.  Though my friend has one and he has run hundreds of gallons of our bio without the least thing other than initially changing out the fuel filter because it cleaned his system out.

We get high quality waste oil, run through centrifuge separator, de-water, then use NaOH or KOH with methanol in an ecoprocessor  with a vacuum methanol recovery system running a surplus $5k cross flow heat exchanger.  After we precipitate the soap and glycerine out in a dry wash we settle and then run through a catalytic polishing filter.  The methanol has pretty much been completely pulled out by this time.
Let it settle to ensure final trace methanol is gone and then run through a 5 micron filter.

It will pass every ASTM test.

$100 retrofit kit for hoses, etc. in the 190D to change over to bio. We run B80 at least in each car. There are also some additives you can add in for bio running vehicles available at diesel supply stores.

As to taxes. The people going on about that are washed up.  If you mix even 1% taxed diesel the feds consider the other 99% a fuel additive and you are technically a mixer and there are no taxes.  You are allowed to make up to 35k gallons per year for personal use before they will step in to tax you.

I would never put unprocessed oil in my engine though.

You can boil the methanol off under vacuum.

I don't doubt that.  But I am old enough to remember when the first attempts at making a biodiesel involved emulsification rather than transesterification.  The thing is, alcohols and aromatics will engage separation of gycerol from SVO or WVO if emulsified together prior to putting it in the tank.  If I remember correctly most of the gylcerol and crud will separate to the bottom of the vessel, but some would still likely make it into the fuel system.



I am not suggesting anyone put such a brew in their truck, but if someone is of the inventor's creed and willing to experiment, it might pay to revisit the concept of emulsions and take up that research where it left off.

Thanks for the spell check catch,
NREL did several tests on biodiesel.  The one I remember they purchased 25+ samples of bio and only a few passed all the astm tests.  Most had extra Na+K or Mg+Ca and Glycern.  There was no corrolation found to any test result to thermal stability except for the worst samples they would in 100% unblended form be considered unstable.  The others passed though some words were mixed that some should be used in blends only.  Most did produce more sediment during aging, and as expected the better the bio the less the sediment.  Really good bio was approximately the same sediment and acidity as dino diesel

http://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy06osti/38836.pdf
I think this is the one

Before my employer went out of business he ran b100 that was certified as motor fuel in 3 bobcat trachoes a t300 bobcat skid steer and a mid 90s international dump truck. We never had a problem with it in fact the trachoes and skidsteers ran cooler and quieter on Bio than when ran on Dino Diesel

Keith are saying there is no safe Bio D out there then? Have you made bio d? have you ever ran bio d? have you rebuilt an engine that ran bio d?

I ask because there people that are doing it and not having trouble. What are they doing to avoid the things your are talking about?





 

BTT for KJ's answer.  Bio has really taken a dive here in North Alabama in the last year or so.  Not sure why.

That's the thing... I think most of the bio-diesel made right now is from used cooking oil.  That's a fairly stable but limited supply.  

I'm not an economist, but I can't imagine it being cost-effective to buy or grow vegetable oil (using petroleum powered machinery) for the sole purpose of turning into bio-diesel.  


Just my opinion, but I don't think we'll see widespread production of bio-diesel until they work out better ways to make oil with cheaper processes, such as the high oil yielding algae.  IIRC, oil was high enough for awhile there a couple years back that there was an Australian company that was going to build an algae-oil production plant for that purpose.  Then the price of petroleum fell and I don't know what ever happened with that.