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Posted: 2/3/2016 11:33:21 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well I'm not planning on living in it. It's just a place to sleep in air conditioned, rape-free security during CWT Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
So you live in the metal box? Seems kinda small for a shelter.. Well I'm not planning on living in it. It's just a place to sleep in air conditioned, rape-free security during CWT LoL - that probably isn't going to be necessary. 
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Posted: 2/3/2016 11:38:18 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looks like it was a RATT Rig at one time. The newer models for MSE either didn't have AC at all, or had the AC mounted at the top of the front wall, but most of them had the ducts set up to cool the equipment, which would naturally be all gone. If you think that shelter is small, try cramming it with so much gear that you can barely turn around in a desk chair inside of it. We used the same basic shelter for our vans, a V1 SENS wasn't too bad, but a FES was awful to pull night shift in. If it still has batteries and charger, make sure to keep the vents for the battery compartment open, seriously this is important. Yeah, there's alot of aluminum angle fastened to the walls inside. I'm guessing it was for equipment. |
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Posted: 2/5/2016 6:23:55 PM EDT
[#3]
Did a little bit of scraping, ospho, and painting on the inside of the trailer. Not pretty, but sufficient to protect against rust for now. Ran a bead of caulk on the front inside to seal it up and keep water from getting to the frame of the trailer.
Got the shelter mounted, finally! 
It tows marginally well behind the blazer. The blazer is just too gutless to really do a great job towing any more than about 1500 pounds. Driving down the highway with that shelter and trailer, I could cruise at 55 mph without having the pedal all the way on the floor, but even a modest hill, it had trouble maintaining 50 mph with full throttle. Also, highway speeds with that load will probably require the addition of an external transmission cooler. I pulled that load about 20 minutes down the highway from where I had the shelter stashed. At the end of that, I jumped out and felt the transmission oil pan and it was bordering on too hot to keep my fingers on for more than a second or two. |
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Posted: 2/6/2016 7:34:02 PM EDT
[#4]
So... any suggestions on how to outfit the interior?
Right now all I've got is: Interior lights. OSB boards for two bunks across the shelter, perpendicular to the direction the trailer/shelter faces. So one board in front of the air conditioner and one board behind the air conditioner. Cut up an old foam mattress to make two beds. Remove all/some of the aluminum angle from the walls. Still need to go over all the seams with silicone caulk to make sure it's weatherproof. Then maybe plug in the air conditioner and see if it blows cold air. |
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Posted: 2/6/2016 8:06:30 PM EDT
[#5]
Well, if you're set on keeping the a/c (and keeping it where it is), maybe some shelving/cabinets for junk directly opposite it?
ETA: it's a 1979 a/c. It's a shade under twice the BTUs of the hundred dollar walmart specials and one of them would cool that space just fine. It's fuggin huge and I bet it's heavy as fuck. It's intended to cool electronics. I'd rip that thing out, put a window or a blank panel there, put the bunks where you said across the sideboards, and cut the walmart special into the side opposite the door. |
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Posted: 2/6/2016 8:18:55 PM EDT
[#6]
OP, it's you're life, but I would just build a "drawer" system in the bed of the trailer, and put a large folding platform with tent on top of that. Use the Australian expedition trailers for inspiration, and fab it up yourself.
That cab is 900lbs before you do anything else?! That's just taking away from the capacity you could use in the trailer. |
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Posted: 2/6/2016 8:41:59 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP, it's you're life, but I would just build a "drawer" system in the bed of the trailer, and put a large folding platform with tent on top of that. Use the Australian expedition trailers for inspiration, and fab it up yourself. That cab is 900lbs before you do anything else?! That's just taking away from the capacity you could use in the trailer. I need air conditioning. But yeah, I'm strongly considering getting rid of that monster AC and replacing it with a cheapo 5k btu window unit. |
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Posted: 2/6/2016 8:47:28 PM EDT
[#8]
NICE
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Posted: 2/6/2016 8:47:32 PM EDT
[#9]
Gut it. Fold up bunks, cheap window unit, LED lighting. Side canopy, solar panels and a small generator.
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Posted: 2/7/2016 12:13:57 AM EDT
[#10]
You do realize that when homeland security declares CW a designated homegrown terror organization, and they see that thing roll up, you're gonna get poked by a hellfire, right?
I say go 70's shaggin wagon in it. 360 shag carpeting, a bladder repurposed into a waterbed, mirrorball, wall mount jojoba lotion dispenser, 8 track player. Put rings in the walls for, ah, restraining cargo. Get an empty quaalude bottle off eBay, use it for decor. OOOH! Belay my previous on the carpet. Mirror tile the ceiling. Ask women if they'd like to watch porn on your 52 inch flatscreen mirror! |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 12:21:58 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You do realize that when homeland security declares CW a designated homegrown terror organization, and they see that thing roll up, you're gonna get poked by a hellfire, right?
I say go 70's shaggin wagon in it. 360 shag carpeting, a bladder repurposed into a waterbed, mirrorball, wall mount jojoba lotion dispenser, 8 track player. Put rings in the walls for, ah, restraining cargo. Get an empty quaalude bottle off eBay, use it for decor. OOOH! Belay my previous on the carpet. Mirror tile the ceiling. Ask women if they'd like to watch porn on your 52 inch flatscreen mirror! These are the kind of high quality suggestions I was looking for.
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Posted: 2/7/2016 12:24:45 AM EDT
[#12]
Looks like you're in for some fun!
I did a full rebuild on a Four Wheel Camper. It might give you some ideas for how to finish out the inside. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1733696_Four_Wheel_Camper_Rebuild.html |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 12:29:32 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looks like you're in for some fun! I did a full rebuild on a Four Wheel Camper. It might give you some ideas for how to finish out the inside. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1733696_Four_Wheel_Camper_Rebuild.html Holy crap dude. You wanna come work on mine?
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Posted: 2/7/2016 12:38:28 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
LoL - that probably isn't going to be necessary. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
So you live in the metal box? Seems kinda small for a shelter.. Well I'm not planning on living in it. It's just a place to sleep in air conditioned, rape-free security during CWT LoL - that probably isn't going to be necessary. So....are you saying that the rape free security will be necessary? ? 
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Posted: 2/7/2016 12:58:06 AM EDT
[#15]
Looks cool. Is there another exit point besides the door?
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Posted: 2/7/2016 2:34:57 AM EDT
[#16]
The biggest problem with the .Mil ECU is the amount of power it draws. I have two similar shelters at work, and we tossed the old AC's and installed WM specials 8 years ago, and they've worked fine with much less power draw. The ECU hole on our shelters was different so the window and front mount of the ECUs is probably the better way to go. The shelter has two structural ribs inside the front wall (opposite the door) that should be spaced similarly to the door width. There are often threaded inserts on the inside walls that penetrate into the structural ribs. You want to avoid cutting the ribs but use them (drill into them) or use the inserts to support any load mounted inside or out. The power connector is a 3 phase 60 amp and a pain in the butt to rebuild.
G |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 2:52:00 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So... any suggestions on how to outfit the interior? Right now all I've got is: Interior lights. OSB boards for two bunks across the shelter, perpendicular to the direction the trailer/shelter faces. So one board in front of the air conditioner and one board behind the air conditioner. Cut up an old foam mattress to make two beds. Remove all/some of the aluminum angle from the walls. Still need to go over all the seams with silicone caulk to make sure it's weatherproof. Then maybe plug in the air conditioner and see if it blows cold air. See this build: http://www.nc4x4.com/forum/threads/camper-build.33706/ The AR15.com of Military Trailers and Shelters: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/forumdisplay.php?56-Trailers |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 6:01:39 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Gut it. Fold up bunks, cheap window unit, LED lighting. Side canopy, solar panels and a small generator. If I can find some used deep cycle batteries for cheap, I'll probably do a couple of solar panels. There's some German-made 260W panels for 175 bucks I found online. That kind of deal doesn't seem all that rare these days, either. So 400 bucks shipped for those, 150 bucks for a charge controller, 150 bucks for a 1kw inverter. (found a nice 24V Cotek 1500W for 220 bucks) ??? for batteries. Running a 5,000 BTU window unit with a 4.8 amp draw with compressor running (115V), that's about 550 watts, expressed, right? Even with the tiny system described above, with a more realistic expression of 200 watts per panel, that would leave me with a deficit of 150 watts. With 150 aH of capacity, and only discharging them to around 70% of capacity to extend the longevity of the batts, that's still 45aH of usable capacity, or 540 watt-hours of usable capacity wired as 12V. At a 150 watt deficit, that's still 3.6 hours of runtime while the the panels are making juice. Or an hour while they aren't doing anything, like at night. The shelter is well-sealed and insulated. So that seems fairly reasonable to me. It sounds like it's almost cheaper to just go solar and not even worry about a generator. If I absolutely need engine power for backup, I can hook the inverter up to my vehicle's battery system and generate power that way. Question... how well do solar panels survive such an environment? They're going to bounce around pretty badly on top of the shelter if I don't secure them well. |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 6:31:44 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looks cool. Is there another exit point besides the door? I was thinking the same, someone closes that tailgate and you might have a bad time. ETA: Wait is there a door inside the door? |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 6:35:57 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was thinking the same, someone closes that tailgate and you might have a bad time. ETA: Wait is there a door inside the door? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Looks cool. Is there another exit point besides the door? I was thinking the same, someone closes that tailgate and you might have a bad time. ETA: Wait is there a door inside the door? yes. There is a door for the door, dawg. I've been thinking of a way to modify it so that door can only be opened from the inside. |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 7:18:08 PM EDT
[#21]
1) Why OSB instead of plywood? Yes, I know you're a cheap mother fucker.
2) Get one of those RV style a/c's. Probably overkill though. |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 8:35:54 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If I can find some used deep cycle batteries for cheap, I'll probably do a couple of solar panels. There's some German-made 260W panels for 175 bucks I found online. That kind of deal doesn't seem all that rare these days, either. So 400 bucks shipped for those, 150 bucks for a charge controller, 150 bucks for a 1kw inverter. (found a nice 24V Cotek 1500W for 220 bucks) ??? for batteries. Running a 5,000 BTU window unit with a 4.8 amp draw with compressor running (115V), that's about 550 watts, expressed, right? Even with the tiny system described above, with a more realistic expression of 200 watts per panel, that would leave me with a deficit of 150 watts. With 150 aH of capacity, and only discharging them to around 70% of capacity to extend the longevity of the batts, that's still 105aH of usable capacity, or 1260 watt-hours of usable capacity wired as 12V. At a 150 watt deficit, that's still 8.4 hours of runtime while the the panels are making juice. Or 2.3 hours while they aren't doing anything, like at night. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Gut it. Fold up bunks, cheap window unit, LED lighting. Side canopy, solar panels and a small generator. If I can find some used deep cycle batteries for cheap, I'll probably do a couple of solar panels. There's some German-made 260W panels for 175 bucks I found online. That kind of deal doesn't seem all that rare these days, either. So 400 bucks shipped for those, 150 bucks for a charge controller, 150 bucks for a 1kw inverter. (found a nice 24V Cotek 1500W for 220 bucks) ??? for batteries. Running a 5,000 BTU window unit with a 4.8 amp draw with compressor running (115V), that's about 550 watts, expressed, right? Even with the tiny system described above, with a more realistic expression of 200 watts per panel, that would leave me with a deficit of 150 watts. With 150 aH of capacity, and only discharging them to around 70% of capacity to extend the longevity of the batts, that's still 105aH of usable capacity, or 1260 watt-hours of usable capacity wired as 12V. At a 150 watt deficit, that's still 8.4 hours of runtime while the the panels are making juice. Or 2.3 hours while they aren't doing anything, like at night. 
The neighbors will hate you though. Sounds like a sick chainsaw. |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 8:50:23 PM EDT
[#23]
The M1009's bumper is not designed to pull a M101
Either reinforce it or put a receiver hitch on |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 8:53:37 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The M1009's bumper is not designed to pull a M101 Either reinforce it or put a receiver hitch on It already has pintle mount-to-frame reinforcement. I'll probably add more. But as it stands, it doesn't have enough guts to pull a 101 with a shelter on it, anyways. Too much sail.
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Posted: 2/8/2016 9:00:43 PM EDT
[#25]
For initial power, I'm thinking I might start with the following:
-24V inverter -two, 12V deep cycle batteries -a switch that will let me toggle the batteries on the shelter between parallel and series. When I'm towing the shelter behind a 12V vehicle, I can toggle the switch so the batteries are wired in parallel and keep the batteries charged with that vehicle. When It's time to run the system, I can then toggle the switch so the batteries are in series, and get my 24V to operate 24V DC lights and/or my 24V inverter to run the air conditioner or one of those little 200 watt space heaters. When I'm towing the shelter behind a 24V vehicle, I can just leave it in series mode all the time. Later, if I decide to add a solar panel or two, then I can just leave the batteries in 24V mode all the time regardless of the tow vehicle and not bother hooking the shelter battery system up to the truck. But I would still have the capability to put it back into 12V mode if I wanted to hook the shelter battery system up to a 12V vehicle for a jump start. What do ya'll think? |
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Posted: 2/8/2016 9:06:21 PM EDT
[#26]
2,000 pounds empty?
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Posted: 2/8/2016 9:07:06 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
2,000 pounds empty? Nope. The trailer weighs 1340 pounds empty. Oh, yeah, I see what you're saying. With the shelter. Yeah. The weight isn't nearly as big of an issue as the surface area of the giant sail that shelter makes. |
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Posted: 2/14/2016 1:21:28 AM EDT
[#28]
Made up a male/male pigtail and plugged her in.
Air conditioner runs. No idea if it is blowing cold air or not, tho. I didn't want to run it long enough to find out in case it's low on refrigerant. Going to see if I can take it over to an air conditioning guy who can plug a gauge into it or something. All the light fixtures work! 
Neat thing is, there's a microswitch on the door frame controlled by "Blackout bypass" switch. When engaged, the flourescent fixtures are shut off and that little incandescent fixture next to the flourescent bulb in the picture above is powered when the door is open (doorframe switch disengaged), and vice versa when the door is closed (doorframe microswitch engaged). I think that little fixture is supposed to use red colored little c7 bulbs. But I'm going to order some of these little feit-brand red LED bulbs (same base size) and see how those do instead. |
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Posted: 2/20/2016 9:21:08 PM EDT
[#29]
Took the ballast out of one of the flourescent fixtures and put in an LED replacement. Looks pretty good. LED is the smaller tube (T8)
Also got some red LED bulbs for the "blackout" lighting. Not sure how I feel about those, yet. 
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Posted: 2/20/2016 11:49:38 PM EDT
[#30]
That is going to be a fine rape room
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Posted: 2/21/2016 1:36:33 AM EDT
[#31]
If you're definitely going to stay with the 24vdc setup, you have to pick up one of these water and ration heaters.
Heater, Water and Ration This is a great price for them, too. They heat up a gallon of water from room temp to 185 degrees in an hour and a half @ 13A draw. Then, after removing power, it takes over 13 hours to get down to 100 degrees. You can use it like a crock pot, or just for heating water. I'm working up a magazine article and maybe a cookbook with this in mind. I'll be trying out some recipes at the Aloha Snackbar at CWW2. |
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Posted: 2/21/2016 3:43:01 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you're definitely going to stay with the 24vdc setup, you have to pick up one of these water and ration heaters. Heater, Water and Ration This is a great price for them, too. They heat up a gallon of water from room temp to 185 degrees in an hour and a half @ 13A draw. Then, after removing power, it takes over 13 hours to get down to 100 degrees. You can use it like a crock pot, or just for heating water. I'm working up a magazine article and maybe a cookbook with this in mind. I'll be trying out some recipes at the Aloha Snackbar at CWW2. I got one last year for 25 bucks from a mom and pop surplus place.
Not sure if I'll wind up using it or not at CWW. Going to be towing the shelter behind a 12V vehicle. Although, I do think my double throw switch idea for using 2 batteries to go back and forth between 12V and 24V might work. |
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Posted: 2/21/2016 4:14:15 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
150 bucks for a 1kw inverter. Is this inverter a pure sine-wave model? If so, you might be able to start a 5000 BTU air conditioner with it. If it's a "modified sine wave" model...well, good luck! There are going to be times when you simply don't have enough solar/battery power to run the air conditioner - in which case it would be good to have a vent fan of some sort. The roof-mounted 12 volt RV vent fans are kind of spendy, but work well - and only draw a couple amps of DC current. Or, look for a pair of surplus 6" brushless DC fans on ebay. Connected in series, they'll produce quiet, gentle airflow. Connected parallel, they'll move some serious air. |
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Posted: 2/21/2016 5:03:37 AM EDT
[#34]
Subscribing for the awesomeness
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Posted: 2/21/2016 11:01:16 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I got one last year for 25 bucks from a mom and pop surplus place.
Not sure if I'll wind up using it or not at CWW. Going to be towing the shelter behind a 12V vehicle. Although, I do think my double throw switch idea for using 2 batteries to go back and forth between 12V and 24V might work. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
If you're definitely going to stay with the 24vdc setup, you have to pick up one of these water and ration heaters. Heater, Water and Ration This is a great price for them, too. They heat up a gallon of water from room temp to 185 degrees in an hour and a half @ 13A draw. Then, after removing power, it takes over 13 hours to get down to 100 degrees. You can use it like a crock pot, or just for heating water. I'm working up a magazine article and maybe a cookbook with this in mind. I'll be trying out some recipes at the Aloha Snackbar at CWW2. I got one last year for 25 bucks from a mom and pop surplus place.
Not sure if I'll wind up using it or not at CWW. Going to be towing the shelter behind a 12V vehicle. Although, I do think my double throw switch idea for using 2 batteries to go back and forth between 12V and 24V might work. I really recommend Blue Sea systems for any DC power distribution needs. I've used them before, and the quality is great and pri e is reasonable. |
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Posted: 2/21/2016 11:15:06 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That is going to be a fine rape room  |
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Posted: 2/21/2016 11:29:35 AM EDT
[#37]
To small and heavy .
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Posted: 2/21/2016 5:45:24 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is this inverter a pure sine-wave model? If so, you might be able to start a 5000 BTU air conditioner with it. If it's a "modified sine wave" model...well, good luck! There are going to be times when you simply don't have enough solar/battery power to run the air conditioner - in which case it would be good to have a vent fan of some sort. The roof-mounted 12 volt RV vent fans are kind of spendy, but work well - and only draw a couple amps of DC current. Or, look for a pair of surplus 6" brushless DC fans on ebay. https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtGK9V55FqG150DQEIIGaCj4kEDUwyEIaA0ca-Xg6zpapBl5ddSw Connected in series, they'll produce quiet, gentle airflow. Connected parallel, they'll move some serious air. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
150 bucks for a 1kw inverter. Is this inverter a pure sine-wave model? If so, you might be able to start a 5000 BTU air conditioner with it. If it's a "modified sine wave" model...well, good luck! There are going to be times when you simply don't have enough solar/battery power to run the air conditioner - in which case it would be good to have a vent fan of some sort. The roof-mounted 12 volt RV vent fans are kind of spendy, but work well - and only draw a couple amps of DC current. Or, look for a pair of surplus 6" brushless DC fans on ebay. https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtGK9V55FqG150DQEIIGaCj4kEDUwyEIaA0ca-Xg6zpapBl5ddSw Connected in series, they'll produce quiet, gentle airflow. Connected parallel, they'll move some serious air. What do you think of this inverter? http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-PROWatt-Inverter-Model-806-1220/dp/B002LGEMOQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1456089805&sr=8-7&keywords=1500+watt+sine+wave+inverter Thinking about just using the vehicle to power the inverter. Realistically, I can't see myself using this whole rig more than 4 or 5 times a year. Kind of hard to justify the cost of solar panels and batteries for that little use. And the more I look at this stuff, the more I see people talking about how it takes alot of batteries to be able to supply proper continuous voltage to a system like I'm describing. Also, how difficult is it to repair inverters? The number of complaints I see in reviews about inverters makes me wonder. Thanks for the tip on the ventilation fans. That's cheap enough to try out. |
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Posted: 2/22/2016 1:21:52 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What do you think of this inverter? http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-PROWatt-Inverter-Model-806-1220/dp/B002LGEMOQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1456089805&sr=8-7&keywords=1500+watt+sine+wave+inverter Quote HistoryQuoted:
What do you think of this inverter? http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-PROWatt-Inverter-Model-806-1220/dp/B002LGEMOQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1456089805&sr=8-7&keywords=1500+watt+sine+wave+inverter 2KW should be enough - And it's sine-wave, so your AC compressor will like it. how difficult is it to repair inverters? Nowadays, most of them use tiny surface-mount components - which makes parts replacement difficult. Also, most brands don't supply schematics, service manuals or trouble-shooting procedures - particularly on their "consumer-grade" models. So, unless it's still in warranty, a broken inverter is usually a throwaway item. |
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Posted: 2/22/2016 11:45:26 AM EDT
[#40]
You can borrow my inverter. 2.3 kW 24 volt. Already setup with NATO plug
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Posted: 2/22/2016 11:50:48 AM EDT
[#41]
I would have preferred it mounted in a truck bed, but a trailer is 2nd best
Good thread |
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Posted: 2/22/2016 2:05:31 PM EDT
[#42]
Neat!
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Posted: 2/22/2016 6:48:16 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You can borrow my inverter. 2.3 kW 24 volt. Already setup with NATO plug Sweet, thanks! I'm going to have to install a turbo on the cucv before I feel comfortable towing anything with it, tho. It has a hard time breaking 60 mph on level ground pulling the rape room. For the Reno CWW thing, I'm going to tow it with the SilverAydo and my bigass pintle adapter. I might take you up on that inverter offer later this year. CWT is close enough I could tow the shelter with one of the deuces or 5 tons. And those are 24V. |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 4:04:46 PM EDT
[#44]
Patch. Aluminum strips for backing, aluminum square cut to fit more or less flush with the square hole.
Spray foam insulation. Trimmed and sanded. 
I'll fill the seams with bondo and paint over it, later. Got some rapco 686 tan coming that should match the rest of the shelter. |
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Posted: 3/17/2016 10:00:29 PM EDT
[#45]
Fixed up the roof this afternoon. The big aluminum corner brackets were pooched out from oxidation. Cleaned everything out and re-caulked seams. Quick and dirty job for now.
Hopefully this will solve the roof leaks. 
Got most of the extraneous aluminum brackets out of the interior. Will post pics later. Next big thing will be to get the big air conditioner out and patch that side. Then I'll throw a quick paint job on the inside and lay down some plywood on the sides for beds. Already got some foam mattress material to use. Also, friend gave me a 5k btu air conditioner. But I won't need that on the upcoming trip out west, so that will be for later. |
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Posted: 3/17/2016 10:30:15 PM EDT
[#46]
That top is begging for solar panels.
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Posted: 3/17/2016 10:32:51 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yeah. Imgur's shit's all retarded and it talks like a fag. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yeah. Imgur's shit's all retarded and it talks like a fag. Ironically that pic doesn't show on my computer either and the only way I know what it says is due to the URL having the name of the photo in the link lol.
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Posted: 3/18/2016 12:03:36 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That top is begging for solar panels. I'm considering it. If nothing else, just for lights and maybe enough battery to run a little 200 watt ceramic heater for a few hours. For cww2, I'm just going to bring a little msw inverter and power off the truck. |
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Posted: 3/24/2016 2:05:31 AM EDT
[#49]
Made a little bit of progress. That air conditioner is HEAVY.
For the trailer lights, I just took some sockets and crimped and soldered them onto the wire ends of the 4 wire trailer plug adapter and stuck them on the correct pins of the trailer plug. Then I took a piece of PVC pipe fitting and turned the outside so it would jam into the trailer plug. Zip tied the trailer plug to my pintle adapter for strain relief. |
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Posted: 3/24/2016 2:33:56 AM EDT
[#50]
Pretty cool
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