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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:20:10 PM EDT
[#1]
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Your old man was spot on. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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That looks terrible. Its not difficult to miter cut and make it look good. Shit it doesn't even take any longer. I cut it rough and then use a small wood rasp or sanding drum chucked in a drill or dremel to cut to my line. It goes fast and I get very tight joints. Because corners are never square, you'll spend more time fussing with an inside miter than you will to just cope it. Bingo. Just finished a room with a 7-piece crown. The ceiling on most walls had a one inch rise in the middle and the walls all bowed into the room about 3/4 of an inch. Miter that?  No.
Coping seemed to be a magical process. It was easier for me to miter it. My old man said I was retarded for inside mitering. Am I missing something here or was my old man right? Your old man was spot on. He normally is. Said it would've taken half as long. He explained how to do it, but it didn't take. May need a coloring book instruction guide. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:21:28 PM EDT
[#2]
Contractor is not a contractor and is clueless
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:22:05 PM EDT
[#3]
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Old man was right. Outside corners get mitered. Squared off ends get mitered and folded back. Inside corners get coped. There's no magic once you learn to miter the end of the piece that you're planning to cope, then cut the cope right along the edge where the face transitions into the miter. Easy-peasy. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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That looks terrible. Its not difficult to miter cut and make it look good. Shit it doesn't even take any longer. I cut it rough and then use a small wood rasp or sanding drum chucked in a drill or dremel to cut to my line. It goes fast and I get very tight joints. Because corners are never square, you'll spend more time fussing with an inside miter than you will to just cope it. Bingo. Just finished a room with a 7-piece crown. The ceiling on most walls had a one inch rise in the middle and the walls all bowed into the room about 3/4 of an inch. Miter that? No.
Coping seemed to be a magical process. It was easier for me to miter it. My old man said I was retarded for inside mitering. Am I missing something here or was my old man right? verbatim instructions from my dad. I think you all are fucking with me. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:24:20 PM EDT
[#4]
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That is called coping. The first piece is cut square and the second is coped to fit. What I see in your pictures is either not finished or just plain sucks. this it's how you lay out coping, but the overlapping piece doesn't appear to be coped |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:29:46 PM EDT
[#5]
I can't tell from the picture whether that's a bad cope, not back cut, crappy molding, a screwed up corner, or some combination. Whatever it is, it isn't right, but it'll caulk.
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:30:01 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: verbatim instructions from my dad. I think you all are fucking with me. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Coping seemed to be a magical process. It was easier for me to miter it. My old man said I was retarded for inside mitering. Am I missing something here or was my old man right? verbatim instructions from my dad. I think you all are fucking with me. The one "trick" (if there is one) is to slightly back cut the coped piece to make the final trim & fit super easy. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:30:30 PM EDT
[#7]
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I have some crown going in and baseboard trim. The first 3 pics are of the crown. Do this look right? I thought they would go in at a 45 but it looks like one piece go square to the wall and the second is cut to fit the contour of the crown. This dosent seem correct but I am not an expert at this. The first pic is looking up from eye height. The second is shooting straight up at the joint from the floor direction. http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/wolverine1856/Mobile%20Uploads/20150903_161733_zpsrnnwtlvs.jpg http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/wolverine1856/Mobile%20Uploads/20150903_161635_zpslp4yz89x.jpg http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/wolverine1856/Mobile%20Uploads/20150903_161643_zpsz3znqwii.jpg I fought the crown molding battle a few years ago and almost gave. I ordered a gizmo called a cut-n-crown. It worked great. I ended up doing my entire house. When I tried to cut on my own I ended up destroying a lot of molding. They have a website. Look it up. It is the easiest way to get good tight cuts. Trust me on this one. Don't try coping unless you know what you are doing |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:32:16 PM EDT
[#8]
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I can't tell from the picture whether that's a bad cope, not back cut, crappy molding, a screwed up corner, or some combination. Whatever it is, it isn't right, but it'll caulk. None of the above. It's just laziness come to life in wood. 
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:44:09 PM EDT
[#9]
This type of work depends on how much you get paid. If I were doing my own house it would be much tighter.
But a lot of work is "put" out to bid . The less the main contractor pays , the less quality work you will get. If it is my house and im working the chop saw its gonna be tight...someone making ten bucks and learning on the job will be what was paid for. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:51:35 PM EDT
[#10]
The simple fact is that a cope is usually way better than an inside miter. Thing is, the carpenter has to give you a professional cope. OP, take a square, and put it in the corner, at crown molding height. I'll guarantee, your walls are not square to each other,( plasterers, ALWAYS build up the plaster in corners) therefore a cope (a good cope) is preferred.
Otherwise, your carpenter will need to determine the actual angle, between the two walls, and adjust the saw to your out of square corner . This can sometimes take a couple, three tries, and if he's unlucky, and cuts it too short, you're on the hook for extra material, not to mention the extra time. A proper cope is cut with a coping saw, and sanded in with sandpaper. Then the meat on the back of the molding needs to be cut out. I have a wood grinding wheel for my angle grinder that does this beautifully. If I coped your crown molding, you'd decide to stain it, rather than painting it. 
If you want to tell your contractor whats wrong with it, tell him the cope isn't complete on the BACK of the crown, so the fit is bad, and the coped piece is projected OUT from the square piece.
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:53:50 PM EDT
[#11]
your carpenter doesn't seem to be able to cope.
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:55:20 PM EDT
[#12]
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Old man was right. Outside corners get mitered. Squared off ends get mitered and folded back. Inside corners get coped. There's no magic once you learn to miter the end of the piece that you're planning to cope, then cut the cope right along the edge where the face transitions into the miter. Easy-peasy. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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That looks terrible. Its not difficult to miter cut and make it look good. Shit it doesn't even take any longer. I cut it rough and then use a small wood rasp or sanding drum chucked in a drill or dremel to cut to my line. It goes fast and I get very tight joints. Because corners are never square, you'll spend more time fussing with an inside miter than you will to just cope it. Bingo. Just finished a room with a 7-piece crown. The ceiling on most walls had a one inch rise in the middle and the walls all bowed into the room about 3/4 of an inch. Miter that? No.
Coping seemed to be a magical process. It was easier for me to miter it. My old man said I was retarded for inside mitering. Am I missing something here or was my old man right? perfect instructions, right there. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:58:40 PM EDT
[#13]
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that's why they make caulk in 55 gallon drums Added something. OP that looks like crappy workmanship. I wouldn't pay for that to be done in my house. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:02:15 PM EDT
[#14]
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None of the above. It's just laziness come to life in wood.
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I can't tell from the picture whether that's a bad cope, not back cut, crappy molding, a screwed up corner, or some combination. Whatever it is, it isn't right, but it'll caulk. None of the above. It's just laziness come to life in wood.
Well, it has to be something wrong to look like that. What? |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:04:55 PM EDT
[#15]
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Well, it has to be something wrong to look like that. What? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I can't tell from the picture whether that's a bad cope, not back cut, crappy molding, a screwed up corner, or some combination. Whatever it is, it isn't right, but it'll caulk. None of the above. It's just laziness come to life in wood.
Well, it has to be something wrong to look like that. What? Looks to me like he coped the profile on the face, but didn't remove enough in the back. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:05:44 PM EDT
[#16]
Dude cut it short and tried to hide it. If the cope doesn't line up you tap the top sides so they move down the wall or bottom sides to move the top towards the center of the room.
Putty will hide it but I would make him re-do it. Or (can't tell how tall the crown is) he used the wrong angle/bevel to cut the 45 laying down (which you sometimes have to do when the crown is taller than half the saw blade.) Make sure (if it is too tall to cut standing upside down) they are using the correct angle/bevel for the degree crown used.) 38* 45* 
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:07:45 PM EDT
[#17]
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Well, it has to be something wrong to look like that. What? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I can't tell from the picture whether that's a bad cope, not back cut, crappy molding, a screwed up corner, or some combination. Whatever it is, it isn't right, but it'll caulk. None of the above. It's just laziness come to life in wood.
Well, it has to be something wrong to look like that. What? Poorly executed. I can make inside corners tight as a duck's butt with miters if that's what a contractor insists on. The material looks ok and I'd be embarrassed to caulk that. I'm amazed when I set up on a big trim job and start coping and guys ask me what I'm doing? 
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:09:00 PM EDT
[#18]
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If we were all fucking with you, you wouldn't need to think about it. You would know it. The one "trick" (if there is one) is to slightly back cut the coped piece to make the final trim & fit super easy. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Coping seemed to be a magical process. It was easier for me to miter it. My old man said I was retarded for inside mitering. Am I missing something here or was my old man right? verbatim instructions from my dad. I think you all are fucking with me. The one "trick" (if there is one) is to slightly back cut the coped piece to make the final trim & fit super easy. My coped contours just didn't quite match the contours on the other piece. I gave up on it. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:10:33 PM EDT
[#19]
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that's why they make caulk no it's not |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:11:37 PM EDT
[#20]
Op, it's just not done well. If you are painting, it'll be fine.
I work for a general contractor and we do very high end residential. I would not be happy with that cope. My trim carpenter is a magician with wood, he taught me the right way to do it, but I still can't do it like he can. I hate to cope but it's is the correct way to do it because no inside corner is ever square. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:12:58 PM EDT
[#21]
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:14:35 PM EDT
[#22]
Coping vs Miter jont, there is no wrong or right. If you know how to use a saw, you can get perfect joints regardless of the walls/ceilings. If you know how to cope, you can get just as good of joints as a miter. It's what is faster/easier for you, nothing else. Personally, I'm way faster with a saw, but plenty of my installers cope joints. It's just 2 different ways to get wood to join, both work and each person has their favorite way to do it.
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:15:30 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looks to me like he coped the profile on the face, but didn't remove enough in the back. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I can't tell from the picture whether that's a bad cope, not back cut, crappy molding, a screwed up corner, or some combination. Whatever it is, it isn't right, but it'll caulk. None of the above. It's just laziness come to life in wood. Well, it has to be something wrong to look like that. What? Looks to me like he coped the profile on the face, but didn't remove enough in the back. No matter how you pronounce it, caulk is not the answer. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:15:43 PM EDT
[#24]
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Miter cut is actually faster b/c when you cope it you are generally doing it by hand. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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That looks terrible. Its not difficult to miter cut and make it look good. Shit it doesn't even take any longer. Miter cut is actually faster b/c when you cope it you are generally doing it by hand. Not true. It's about the same, since only half of your crown pieces need to be coped. And I cope base with my chop saw. It's super fast. I know we are talking about crown, but thought I'd throw that out there. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:19:39 PM EDT
[#25]
Old saying is "caulk and paint make a carpenter what he aint", if I
showed those pictures to my trim carpenter buddy, his head would explode. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:20:10 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well, it has to be something wrong to look like that. What? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I can't tell from the picture whether that's a bad cope, not back cut, crappy molding, a screwed up corner, or some combination. Whatever it is, it isn't right, but it'll caulk. None of the above. It's just laziness come to life in wood. Well, it has to be something wrong to look like that. What? It almost looks like the molding wasn't rolled the same way from one wall to the next. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:22:08 PM EDT
[#27]
We are really comparing Bushmaster to Daniel Defense AR rifles...you get what you pay for.
We all can back cut the molding at 47 deg. and cope and sand the crap out of it and it will at some point be perfect. It is how much time you are willing to put on the miter...Have done both. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:22:09 PM EDT
[#28]
That is absolute crap - your average home improvement weekend warrior can do a better job than that. I think that your contractor is playing fast and loose with the term "carpenter" as no-one who actually fits that description would/should charge for work like that. Maybe a day laborer with delusions of grandeur and $5 stack of internet business cards?
Have it redone properly if he wants a penny or fire him and hire a professional. If he is cutting corners on this, what else is screwed up? Sorry OP, but that is piss poor workmanship and there is no excuse for it when money is changing hands. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:22:24 PM EDT
[#29]
OP
I think it is accepted that that is a bad job by someone that you a paying to do the work. A contractor should know better. Hell the crown molding my brother and I looked much better than that after some trial and error (mostly by him) to get it right. I would ask him to redo it because the cracks will show after time. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:23:13 PM EDT
[#30]
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Not true. It's about the same, since only half of your crown pieces need to be coped. And I cope base with my chop saw. It's super fast. I know we are talking about crown, but thought I'd throw that out there. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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That looks terrible. Its not difficult to miter cut and make it look good. Shit it doesn't even take any longer. Miter cut is actually faster b/c when you cope it you are generally doing it by hand. Not true. It's about the same, since only half of your crown pieces need to be coped. And I cope base with my chop saw. It's super fast. I know we are talking about crown, but thought I'd throw that out there. I can cope princeton and casing with my saw but how do you cope this with a chop saw? 
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:23:31 PM EDT
[#31]
"My coped contours just didn't quite match the contours on the other piece. I gave up on it."
The key is having a few small half-round and round fine rasps. I have about 4 that I use to rasp the back edge. Works like a charm. I also saw a guy use a pneumatic 1" belt sander that he plugged into his compressor.... He would quickly belt sand a bevel on the back edge. Fucking tits. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:30:06 PM EDT
[#32]
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I can cope princeton and casing with my saw but how do you cope this with a chop saw? http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/LumberLiquidators/10000462_rs?$373x273$ Quote HistoryQuoted:
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That looks terrible. Its not difficult to miter cut and make it look good. Shit it doesn't even take any longer. Miter cut is actually faster b/c when you cope it you are generally doing it by hand. Not true. It's about the same, since only half of your crown pieces need to be coped. And I cope base with my chop saw. It's super fast. I know we are talking about crown, but thought I'd throw that out there. I can cope princeton and casing with my saw but how do you cope this with a chop saw? http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/LumberLiquidators/10000462_rs?$373x273$ Cut the 45 as if you are mitering the corner... Flip the board upside down and cut straight down 90 degrees to the first groove that separates the flat bottom section from the bottom of the cap radius. Turn the board perpendicular to the saw blade and carefully follow the contour of the top profile and nibble away the remaining back of the miter. Rasp the back edge of the top profile as needed. Difficult to explain but it's cool as shit. I've been doing it for a few years now. Several guys that are far more experienced than me have never seen it done before. Makes some crazy tight corners... A friend taught me how to do it. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:39:43 PM EDT
[#33]
First thing I asked was painted or stain...no matter which it should have been treated before nailed to the wall...stain or caulk and paint.
If the homeowner had arrived a hour after the painter , no problem. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:43:07 PM EDT
[#34]
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Cut the 45 as if you are mitering the corner... Flip the board upside down and cut straight down 90 degrees to the first groove that separates the flat bottom section from the bottom of the cap radius. Turn the board perpendicular to the saw blade and carefully follow the contour of the top profile and nibble away the remaining back of the miter. Rasp the back edge of the top profile as needed. Difficult to explain but it's cool as shit. I've been doing it for a few years now. Several guys that are far more experienced than me have never seen it done before. Makes some crazy tight corners... A friend taught me how to do it. Damn, sounds dangerous and difficult on long pieces but that's what I imagined you were going to say.(would be the only way) |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:47:18 PM EDT
[#35]
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Damn, sounds dangerous and difficult on long pieces but that's what I imagined you were going to say.(would be the only way) Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Cut the 45 as if you are mitering the corner... Flip the board upside down and cut straight down 90 degrees to the first groove that separates the flat bottom section from the bottom of the cap radius. Turn the board perpendicular to the saw blade and carefully follow the contour of the top profile and nibble away the remaining back of the miter. Rasp the back edge of the top profile as needed. Difficult to explain but it's cool as shit. I've been doing it for a few years now. Several guys that are far more experienced than me have never seen it done before. Makes some crazy tight corners... A friend taught me how to do it. Damn, sounds dangerous and difficult on long pieces but that's what I imagined you were going to say.(would be the only way) Can be. You need a sharp, fresh blade and be aware of your angle towards the blade. It takes some practice and the shorter pieces are certainly easier to do. I don't always do it but I do for short pieces when I'm in a hurry. 
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:47:18 PM EDT
[#36]
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It almost looks like the molding wasn't rolled the same way from one wall to the next. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I can't tell from the picture whether that's a bad cope, not back cut, crappy molding, a screwed up corner, or some combination. Whatever it is, it isn't right, but it'll caulk. None of the above. It's just laziness come to life in wood.
Well, it has to be something wrong to look like that. What? It almost looks like the molding wasn't rolled the same way from one wall to the next. I must have had a stroke in my sleep last night. I haven't understood one fucking thing I've read here all day. Are you saying the profile on the two pieces of molding isn't the same, i.e., crappy materials? Or that the two pieces weren't positioned at the same spring angle between the wall and ceiling, i.e., crappy installation? |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:48:47 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Dude cut it short and tried to hide it. If the cope doesn't line up you tap the top sides so they move down the wall or bottom sides to move the top towards the center of the room. Putty will hide it but I would make him re-do it. Or (can't tell how tall the crown is) he used the wrong angle/bevel to cut the 45 laying down (which you sometimes have to do when the crown is taller than half the saw blade.) Make sure (if it is too tall to cut standing upside down) they are using the correct angle/bevel for the degree crown used.) 38* 45* http://www.lowes.com/projects/images/how-tos/Building-Supplies/Cutting-Crown-Moulding-Chart.jpg ^^This guy has the answer. Not all crown is 45 degree- in fact, most is 38/52 degree. You always cut crown on the flat, upside down using a miter saw. Use the table in the chart above for the angle corner you are trying to cut. Hand coping is faggotry. All you need is math and a brain. I can't believe no one pointed this out. That is a shitty corner and even if you use caulk to hide it it will still look like shit. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:56:02 PM EDT
[#38]
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I must have had a stroke in my sleep last night. I haven't understood one fucking thing I've read here all day. Are you saying the profile on the two pieces of molding isn't the same, i.e., crappy materials? Or that the two pieces weren't positioned at the same spring angle between the wall and ceiling, i.e., crappy installation? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I can't tell from the picture whether that's a bad cope, not back cut, crappy molding, a screwed up corner, or some combination. Whatever it is, it isn't right, but it'll caulk. None of the above. It's just laziness come to life in wood.
Well, it has to be something wrong to look like that. What? It almost looks like the molding wasn't rolled the same way from one wall to the next. I must have had a stroke in my sleep last night. I haven't understood one fucking thing I've read here all day. Are you saying the profile on the two pieces of molding isn't the same, i.e., crappy materials? Or that the two pieces weren't positioned at the same spring angle between the wall and ceiling, i.e., crappy installation? I'd guess he didn't cut them at the same spring angle and didn't take off enough material on the back bevel when he "kinda coped" it. lol |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:56:26 PM EDT
[#39]
Ok Jane. You nail one piece of curvy trim on the wall and you take a similar piece and kinda make it "spoon" up to the first one. It takes some time and practice to make them blend to the perfect corner and look seamless.
Some can do it but it take some time....Others are paid to run though a room in a few minutes. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:58:58 PM EDT
[#40]
I was going to put in my own crown molding until I read this thread.
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Posted: 9/3/2015 7:00:18 PM EDT
[#41]
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^^This guy has the answer. Not all crown is 45 degree- in fact, most is 38/52 degree. You always cut crown on the flat, upside down using a miter saw. Use the table in the chart above for the angle corner you are trying to cut. Hand coping is faggotry. All you need is math and a brain. I can't believe no one pointed this out. That is a shitty corner and even if you use caulk to hide it it will still look like shit. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Dude cut it short and tried to hide it. If the cope doesn't line up you tap the top sides so they move down the wall or bottom sides to move the top towards the center of the room. Putty will hide it but I would make him re-do it. Or (can't tell how tall the crown is) he used the wrong angle/bevel to cut the 45 laying down (which you sometimes have to do when the crown is taller than half the saw blade.) Make sure (if it is too tall to cut standing upside down) they are using the correct angle/bevel for the degree crown used.) 38* 45* http://www.lowes.com/projects/images/how-tos/Building-Supplies/Cutting-Crown-Moulding-Chart.jpg ^^This guy has the answer. Not all crown is 45 degree- in fact, most is 38/52 degree. You always cut crown on the flat, upside down using a miter saw. Use the table in the chart above for the angle corner you are trying to cut. Hand coping is faggotry. All you need is math and a brain. I can't believe no one pointed this out. That is a shitty corner and even if you use caulk to hide it it will still look like shit. You can absolutely cut it nested, and I prefer to do it that way. Personal preference, though. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 7:01:28 PM EDT
[#42]
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Cut the 45 as if you are mitering the corner... Flip the board upside down and cut straight down 90 degrees to the first groove that separates the flat bottom section from the bottom of the cap radius. Turn the board perpendicular to the saw blade and carefully follow the contour of the top profile and nibble away the remaining back of the miter. Rasp the back edge of the top profile as needed. Difficult to explain but it's cool as shit. I've been doing it for a few years now. Several guys that are far more experienced than me have never seen it done before. Makes some crazy tight corners... A friend taught me how to do it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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That looks terrible. Its not difficult to miter cut and make it look good. Shit it doesn't even take any longer. Miter cut is actually faster b/c when you cope it you are generally doing it by hand. Not true. It's about the same, since only half of your crown pieces need to be coped. And I cope base with my chop saw. It's super fast. I know we are talking about crown, but thought I'd throw that out there. I can cope princeton and casing with my saw but how do you cope this with a chop saw? http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/LumberLiquidators/10000462_rs?$373x273$ Cut the 45 as if you are mitering the corner... Flip the board upside down and cut straight down 90 degrees to the first groove that separates the flat bottom section from the bottom of the cap radius. Turn the board perpendicular to the saw blade and carefully follow the contour of the top profile and nibble away the remaining back of the miter. Rasp the back edge of the top profile as needed. Difficult to explain but it's cool as shit. I've been doing it for a few years now. Several guys that are far more experienced than me have never seen it done before. Makes some crazy tight corners... A friend taught me how to do it. Just get a Collins coping foot and save the hassle and danger. Same result. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 7:03:10 PM EDT
[#43]
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^^This guy has the answer. Not all crown is 45 degree- in fact, most is 38/52 degree. You always cut crown on the flat, upside down using a miter saw. Use the table in the chart above for the angle corner you are trying to cut. Hand coping is faggotry. All you need is math and a brain. I can't believe no one pointed this out. That is a shitty corner and even if you use caulk to hide it it will still look like shit. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Dude cut it short and tried to hide it. If the cope doesn't line up you tap the top sides so they move down the wall or bottom sides to move the top towards the center of the room. Putty will hide it but I would make him re-do it. Or (can't tell how tall the crown is) he used the wrong angle/bevel to cut the 45 laying down (which you sometimes have to do when the crown is taller than half the saw blade.) Make sure (if it is too tall to cut standing upside down) they are using the correct angle/bevel for the degree crown used.) 38* 45* http://www.lowes.com/projects/images/how-tos/Building-Supplies/Cutting-Crown-Moulding-Chart.jpg ^^This guy has the answer. Not all crown is 45 degree- in fact, most is 38/52 degree. You always cut crown on the flat, upside down using a miter saw. Use the table in the chart above for the angle corner you are trying to cut. Hand coping is faggotry. All you need is math and a brain. I can't believe no one pointed this out. That is a shitty corner and even if you use caulk to hide it it will still look like shit. LOL! WUT? |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 7:03:59 PM EDT
[#44]
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Not true. It's about the same, since only half of your crown pieces need to be coped. And I cope base with my chop saw. It's super fast. I know we are talking about crown, but thought I'd throw that out there. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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That looks terrible. Its not difficult to miter cut and make it look good. Shit it doesn't even take any longer. Miter cut is actually faster b/c when you cope it you are generally doing it by hand. Not true. It's about the same, since only half of your crown pieces need to be coped. And I cope base with my chop saw. It's super fast. I know we are talking about crown, but thought I'd throw that out there. how do you cope with a chop saw? |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 7:04:30 PM EDT
[#45]
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Well, it has to be something wrong to look like that. What? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I can't tell from the picture whether that's a bad cope, not back cut, crappy molding, a screwed up corner, or some combination. Whatever it is, it isn't right, but it'll caulk. None of the above. It's just laziness come to life in wood.
Well, it has to be something wrong to look like that. What? One or a combination of the above.
Looks to me like it's a bad coping job on a board that had too much of the lower flat nipped off. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 7:04:58 PM EDT
[#46]
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Ok Jane. You nail one piece of curvy trim on the wall and you take a similar piece and kinda make it "spoon" up to the first one. It takes some time and practice to make them blend to the perfect corner and look seamless. Some can do it but it take some time....Others are paid to run though a room in a few minutes. I know how to run crown.
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Posted: 9/3/2015 7:06:19 PM EDT
[#47]
"Just get a Collins coping foot and save the hassle and danger. Same result."
Aight. I'll check it out. But you know how the top of your ladder says "Don't stand here!" I'm the guy that does it anyway. 
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Posted: 9/3/2015 7:06:54 PM EDT
[#48]
Two things.
1.) Ditch the coping saw and use a right angle grinder with a sanding wheel and a steady but light touch. 2.) You need to back cut it so that only the leading edge is touching the other piece. If you square cut it the back part can get in the way and cause gaps. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 7:08:16 PM EDT
[#49]
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Two things. 1.) Ditch the coping saw and use a right angle grinder with a sanding wheel and a steady but light touch. 2.) You need to back cut it so that only the leading edge is touching the other piece. If you square cut it the back part can get in the way and cause gaps. You learn the value of back cutting really quickly when you cope 135 degree corners. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 7:10:11 PM EDT
[#50]
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how do you cope with a chop saw? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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That looks terrible. Its not difficult to miter cut and make it look good. Shit it doesn't even take any longer. Miter cut is actually faster b/c when you cope it you are generally doing it by hand. Not true. It's about the same, since only half of your crown pieces need to be coped. And I cope base with my chop saw. It's super fast. I know we are talking about crown, but thought I'd throw that out there. how do you cope with a chop saw? Carefully... |
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