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Link Posted: 1/27/2014 8:10:10 AM EDT
[#1]
What is the relative humidity in your house?



The reason most of the these cracks occur is because of low humidity in the house causing the joints to shrink.  Some houses can take a couple of years to actually get the relative humidity down far enough to cause these issues.  I doubt it is a significant structural issue.  Cosmetic problem.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 8:12:27 AM EDT
[#2]
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If I recall there are three different types of mud compounds to be used, I did my garage a couple years ago and I have CRS disease but there is a joint, filling and finish compound.  To cold to go to my shop and look at the old leftover buckets.

Shoddy (lowest bidder) usually do everything with one compound.
 
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Could be just a shitty tape and mud job.


It's a competitive market, I have seen some real yahoo's slinging joint compound, must have given them a price too good to pass on.
If I recall there are three different types of mud compounds to be used, I did my garage a couple years ago and I have CRS disease but there is a joint, filling and finish compound.  To cold to go to my shop and look at the old leftover buckets.

Shoddy (lowest bidder) usually do everything with one compound.
 

The ready mixed mud is good for going over paper tape,stippling ceilings, and for the crews who use "tools" bazookas, banjos,mud boxes, etc.
Ready mix or what we call it "bucket mud" has a bit of latex in it and it tends to shrink up and crack. We "my family" have been using quick dry powdered joint compound or "sack mud" mostly for the last 50 yrs or more.
It dries faster lessening the shrinkage and allows for faster successive coats to be applied in a day.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 8:15:33 AM EDT
[#3]
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I like screws, nails not so much.
 
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seams between the sheets of drywall or at corners?

If corners caulk them with acrylic DAP painters caulk and repaint

If cracks between sheets on an open wall you are much more fucked, the wall will need to be stripped down to studs and sheathed with plywood as it should have been a sheer wall to begin with, consult an engineer for specs and nailing patterns
 

HAHAH no...
No offense man but,that is not even remotely correct.. All you need to do is have a finisher re-run the joints. Bang the wall with you fist and see if it rattles. If it does rattle put a few nails in it to anchor it back solid then spot the nails and put stick on tape over the cracks and run the joints. (3rd gen drywall hanger/finisher here)
I like screws, nails not so much.
 

We glue and nail and it holds better than screws in our experience. It is a tad more costly due to the cost of glue but it allows us to get the rock up a lot quicker.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 11:04:27 AM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:

The ready mixed mud is good for going over paper tape,stippling ceilings, and for the crews who use "tools" bazookas, banjos,mud boxes, etc.
Ready mix or what we call it "bucket mud" has a bit of latex in it and it tends to shrink up and crack. We "my family" have been using quick dry powdered joint compound or "sack mud" mostly for the last 50 yrs or more.
It dries faster lessening the shrinkage and allows for faster successive coats to be applied in a day.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Could be just a shitty tape and mud job.


It's a competitive market, I have seen some real yahoo's slinging joint compound, must have given them a price too good to pass on.
If I recall there are three different types of mud compounds to be used, I did my garage a couple years ago and I have CRS disease but there is a joint, filling and finish compound.  To cold to go to my shop and look at the old leftover buckets.

Shoddy (lowest bidder) usually do everything with one compound.
 

The ready mixed mud is good for going over paper tape,stippling ceilings, and for the crews who use "tools" bazookas, banjos,mud boxes, etc.
Ready mix or what we call it "bucket mud" has a bit of latex in it and it tends to shrink up and crack. We "my family" have been using quick dry powdered joint compound or "sack mud" mostly for the last 50 yrs or more.
It dries faster lessening the shrinkage and allows for faster successive coats to be applied in a day.


That stuff is basically just a hydrated lime mix isn't it?

I do a lot of mix designs for stucco using lime and portland, but I have never actually done any indoor plastering or sheetrock taping.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 11:19:30 AM EDT
[#5]
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Could be just a shitty tape and mud job.
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This is often the case nowadays. A lot of the drywall contractors use the quick set mud so they can be in and out of a job faster, this stuff sets up and is ready to sand in 20 minutes or so but is much less resilient than the 24 hour cure time mud. Quick set should only be used as a skim coat or for minor repairs, not the initial application on new construction.

Best fix is to grind or scrape out the cracked area and re-mud with an acrylic mortar, if it has not been taped then you have a little more work to do to make it right. I would get in touch with the builder on a new home and have them do the repairs, especially if you have a homeowners warranty.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 11:33:09 AM EDT
[#6]
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It's west Las Vegas. So temp changes are between 30 and 115
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There's your problem right there. Most the houses in Vegas were built as fast as possible by low-skilled labor of questionable immigration status.

You should see the sketchy shit I've repaired in my late 70's Vegas home.




Come on by the HTF and say hi sometime.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 11:33:53 AM EDT
[#7]
When I had a new house built in Arizona the first year the drywall was cracking everywhere.  In the first year a house is built you lose a bunch of moisture as studs continue to dry, concrete continues to cure, stucco and dry wall mud continues to lose moisture, paints cure.  I had them come in and fix everything under the 1 year or so home warranty.  Over 15 years I still had to caulk corners and repaint.

I recently bought a home in Michigan that is on a small island.  I painted all the drywall before I moved in.  The humidity is extremely high in the warm months and extremely low in the winter even when using a humidifier.

Drywall cracks seem to open up in the winter (along with doors warping) and then everything goes back to normal in the warmer weather.  Temperature extremes vary up to 120 degrees with the seasons.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 11:44:29 AM EDT
[#8]

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Doubt it, the soil here is like concrete. It's why very few houses have basements here, they are a bitch to dig and not cost effective.
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Would compacting the soil before setting the foundation help any?







Doubt it, the soil here is like concrete. It's why very few houses have basements here, they are a bitch to dig and not cost effective.




 
There are still plenty of soils related settling problems in homes here in Vegas.  I just wrapped up a construction defect case where the soils were so bad that the $2M house literally started to crack in half.




Best case is that these are pretty standard joint cracks caused by normal settling.




My fear for you, though, is that it could potentially be something worse.  If there were no cracks when you bought the house one year ago, and they've just now appeared in the year since you bought it, I'd be concerned that the seller patched the cracks before selling and didn't disclose the cracks.  If this is the case, you could have some more serious problems.  It could be coincidence that the cracks just now showed up, but in my experience, 10-14 year old houses don't just start to show cracks suddenly in the 12th (or whatever year it is) year.




I'd patch the cracks and watch closely to see if they reopen soon.  If they reopen, I'd have an engineer come out and take a look to make sure you don't have any foundation or soil related problems.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 12:27:49 PM EDT
[#9]

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HAHAH no...

No offense man but,that is not even remotely correct.. All you need to do is have a finisher re-run the joints. Bang the wall with you fist and see if it rattles. If it does rattle put a few nails in it to anchor it back solid then spot the nails and put stick on tape over the cracks and run the joints. (3rd gen drywall hanger/finisher here)
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Quoted:

seams between the sheets of drywall or at corners?



If corners caulk them with acrylic DAP painters caulk and repaint



If cracks between sheets on an open wall you are much more fucked, the wall will need to be stripped down to studs and sheathed with plywood as it should have been a sheer wall to begin with, consult an engineer for specs and nailing patterns

 


HAHAH no...

No offense man but,that is not even remotely correct.. All you need to do is have a finisher re-run the joints. Bang the wall with you fist and see if it rattles. If it does rattle put a few nails in it to anchor it back solid then spot the nails and put stick on tape over the cracks and run the joints. (3rd gen drywall hanger/finisher here)
Really? I've only worked on homes for 37 years. If you have a home with large open areas and it is properly engineered you will need/find shear walls with plywood sheathing under the sheetrock to prevent the wall from flexing and breaking butt joints. In OP's case it does not sound like this is what the issue is but at the time I had little info to go on. And yes, it is likely the drywallers fault for a crappy hang or tape job. Like I said, if minor caulk and paint it.

 
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 1:41:52 PM EDT
[#10]
Man I hate to bring this up but..... My brother and I bought this house several years ago to flip.  The price was right, but it needed a lot of work on the interior.  We had cracks running vertically in the walls.  The previous owners had been big do it yourselfers and had moved interior walls hung additional doors etc.   We started looking closely and it was evident that everywhere we had a vertical crack in the wall it was because the assholes had not used tape between the sheetrock joints!  We ended up putting in about 20 new pieces of sheetrock.  We had to shim the studs to even things out and used fiberglass mesh tape between the joints.  What a pain in the ass.  The Bain of every   remodeler or flipper is a previous homeowner who did there own repair work and though they knew what they were doing.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 1:52:10 PM EDT
[#11]
Try the fiberglass mesh tape, I had one seam in a cathedral ceiling that kept opening from ceiling to floor. Over 10 years now with no issues after using the mesh tape.
For shorter cracks you can use latex caulk, get it well into the crack then paint, this also works in awkward places like window corners.
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