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Posted: 7/9/2011 6:10:03 PM EDT
[#1]
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Looking good! Thanks! I can't wait until this unit is done and I have 'official' before and after pictures. |
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Posted: 7/9/2011 6:19:46 PM EDT
[#2]
Tag
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 7/9/2011 6:21:02 PM EDT
[#3]
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Looks like shit Im sorry but youre the first lerson that ive reported in a year. That reply is useless hurtful and uncalled for in this thread. This guy is obviously working very hard to make a home for people and seems to be genuinely concerned with making it look nice and the only construction wisdom that you can muster is "looks like shit"? Sorry but low post count, recent join date, useless hatefull post, and a general lack of maturity makes me think that you are a troll. I'm sure he was just kidding around. Thanks though. 
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Posted: 7/9/2011 6:29:26 PM EDT
[#4]
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About the giant hole. I think that I'm going to take the concrete out and re-freame it. Over the the new framing I want to put polymer 2x4s in like decking. What do you guys think of that? Be careful as they could be slippery when it gets cold. If you create a hazard, your are on the hook for hospital bills. |
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Posted: 7/9/2011 7:14:29 PM EDT
[#5]
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About the giant hole. I think that I'm going to take the concrete out and re-freame it. Over the the new framing I want to put polymer 2x4s in like decking. What do you guys think of that? Be careful as they could be slippery when it gets cold. If you create a hazard, your are on the hook for hospital bills. We're thinking of doing flagstone now. Still not sure. I'm definitely open to any suggestions. |
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Posted: 7/9/2011 7:18:01 PM EDT
[#6]
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About the giant hole. I think that I'm going to take the concrete out and re-freame it. Over the the new framing I want to put polymer 2x4s in like decking. What do you guys think of that? Be careful as they could be slippery when it gets cold. If you create a hazard, your are on the hook for hospital bills. We're thinking of doing flagstone now. Still not sure. I'm definitely open to any suggestions. If you do concrete, make sure to add fiber to it for reinforcement. Also, you can stain and texture concrete to make it attractive and less slippery. This may be something where you want to hire someone to do it right, with a warranty, and a specific surface finish. Watch how they do it, and then you can do something like it yourself. |
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Posted: 7/9/2011 7:30:07 PM EDT
[#7]
Cool thread... those will be some nice looking apartments. In the not so good area –– what do you think you will get a month for those?
Now is the time to be doing it –– the rental market has been heating up for years with everything else going down the toilet. You are in need of a tactical tool belt.  
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Posted: 7/9/2011 8:19:12 PM EDT
[#8]
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About the giant hole. I think that I'm going to take the concrete out and re-freame it. Over the the new framing I want to put polymer 2x4s in like decking. What do you guys think of that? Be careful as they could be slippery when it gets cold. If you create a hazard, your are on the hook for hospital bills. We're thinking of doing flagstone now. Still not sure. I'm definitely open to any suggestions. If you do concrete, make sure to add fiber to it for reinforcement. Also, you can stain and texture concrete to make it attractive and less slippery. This may be something where you want to hire someone to do it right, with a warranty, and a specific surface finish. Watch how they do it, and then you can do something like it yourself. Yep. The big thing right now is finding a solution that is durable and safe. It's looking like we may need to hire someone to do it. |
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Posted: 7/9/2011 8:24:21 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
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About the giant hole. I think that I'm going to take the concrete out and re-freame it. Over the the new framing I want to put polymer 2x4s in like decking. What do you guys think of that? Be careful as they could be slippery when it gets cold. If you create a hazard, your are on the hook for hospital bills. We're thinking of doing flagstone now. Still not sure. I'm definitely open to any suggestions. If you do concrete, make sure to add fiber to it for reinforcement. Also, you can stain and texture concrete to make it attractive and less slippery. This may be something where you want to hire someone to do it right, with a warranty, and a specific surface finish. Watch how they do it, and then you can do something like it yourself. Yep. The big thing right now is finding a solution that is durable and safe. It's looking like we may need to hire someone to do it. You can stain the concrete to really complement the colors for the apartment, inside and out. Chicks dig that. And that helps you rent it! |
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Posted: 7/9/2011 8:37:21 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Cool thread... those will be some nice looking apartments. In the not so good area –– what do you think you will get a month for those? Now is the time to be doing it –– the rental market has been heating up for years with everything else going down the toilet. You are in need of a tactical tool belt.
The market is great right now. We got this building for quite a bit under 100k and are only putting about 25k into it. Rents are still up in the air. It's looking like $675 for the downstairs units and $600 for the upstairs. The downstairs units will have a 'master' bedroom and yard. Maybe 'tactical tools' should be this years Christmas theme. 
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Posted: 7/9/2011 9:08:28 PM EDT
[#11]
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Is the sound board generally the best option for sound proofing? The thicker the space between the walls the better. Some tricks I learned - Apply soundboard to the neighbor wall with sealant Insulate the walls, spray foam seems to work the best. Use two sheets of drywall on your side. Apply silicone sealant to the studs before hanging the your side drywall. Screw, don't nail the drywall into the studs. |
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Posted: 7/9/2011 9:24:27 PM EDT
[#12]
Tag for the after shots
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Posted: 7/10/2011 4:13:20 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Is the sound board generally the best option for sound proofing? The thicker the space between the walls the better. Some tricks I learned - Apply soundboard to the neighbor wall with sealant Insulate the walls, spray foam seems to work the best. Use two sheets of drywall on your side. Apply silicone sealant to the studs before hanging the your side drywall. Screw, don't nail the drywall into the studs. Owens Corning has some pretty good mass market sound reduction stuff too. |
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Posted: 7/10/2011 3:44:14 PM EDT
[#14]
I wanted to check how the counters matched.
I think it looks good.
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Posted: 7/10/2011 3:45:22 PM EDT
[#15]
I would kill for some apartments out here like that!
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Posted: 7/10/2011 4:17:41 PM EDT
[#16]
Is that a NEMA 10-50 I see? Those went out with the 1996 NEC so you might want to double check if they are still legal for rehab work. If you didn't touch the electrical, you should be good.
The "issue" is most stoves used a very minor part of one of the legs to the neutral for 120 volt supplying lights, clock and control. This was deemed "unsafe" as if there is a fault to ground, say a Calrod element broke down and both legs were hot to ground, it could overload the ground. But since most NEMA 10-50s were wired like a brick outhouse, it really didn't matter. New appliances might have issues since they have 4 wire plugs, two legs, neutral and ground. |
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Posted: 7/10/2011 5:22:06 PM EDT
[#17]
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Is that a NEMA 10-50 I see? Those went out with the 1996 NEC so you might want to double check if they are still legal for rehab work. If you didn't touch the electrical, you should be good. The "issue" is most stoves used a very minor part of one of the legs to the neutral for 120 volt supplying lights, clock and control. This was deemed "unsafe" as if there is a fault to ground, say a Calrod element broke down and both legs were hot to ground, it could overload the ground. But since most NEMA 10-50s were wired like a brick outhouse, it really didn't matter. New appliances might have issues since they have 4 wire plugs, two legs, neutral and ground. Interesting stuff. I'll find out tomorrow. We had an electrician do the 220 lines so it should be up to code. |
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Posted: 7/10/2011 5:48:06 PM EDT
[#18]
looks good. I dont have a real job anymore just my rentals. Just got done working over one of my house. It can be a very rewarding lifestyle.
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Posted: 7/10/2011 7:40:03 PM EDT
[#19]
I forgot to mention that we're doing laminate wood floors in the living room and bedrooms.
Any suggestions for colors or brands? |
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Posted: 7/10/2011 7:52:26 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted: Quoted: Is that a NEMA 10-50 I see? Those went out with the 1996 NEC so you might want to double check if they are still legal for rehab work. If you didn't touch the electrical, you should be good. The "issue" is most stoves used a very minor part of one of the legs to the neutral for 120 volt supplying lights, clock and control. This was deemed "unsafe" as if there is a fault to ground, say a Calrod element broke down and both legs were hot to ground, it could overload the ground. But since most NEMA 10-50s were wired like a brick outhouse, it really didn't matter. New appliances might have issues since they have 4 wire plugs, two legs, neutral and ground. Interesting stuff. I'll find out tomorrow. We had an electrician do the 220 lines so it should be up to code. New appliances? You might have to redo the outlets. |
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Posted: 7/11/2011 3:27:17 AM EDT
[#21]
looks great!
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Posted: 7/11/2011 4:06:10 AM EDT
[#22]
Lookin good OP. I like this kind of stuff, no expert, but I like doing it.
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Posted: 7/11/2011 4:41:25 AM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
The market is great right now. We got this building for quite a bit under 100k and are only putting about 25k into it. Rents are still up in the air. It's looking like $675 for the downstairs units and $600 for the upstairs. The downstairs units will have a 'master' bedroom and yard. Maybe 'tactical tools' should be this years Christmas theme. Man, that's GREAT! There is an older,waterfront community near us. About 15-20 years ago, soild houses, needing some work, on 1/4 lots ,were going for under $70K. Wife kept pushing me to grab one or two, to fix and rent (I was in the trades) I didn't want to messwith the headaches of renting. When market exploded, same homes were going for $200K 
STILL kicking myself, but starting to see some deals out there now. (met a man who has been doing one or two house a year, for 25 years! He uses a management company to handle all the day to day stuff, rental,etc. OWNS 40+ houses, most split into 2 units!) |
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Posted: 7/11/2011 11:09:20 PM EDT
[#24]
Bathroom pics.
I want this one for my records. 
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Posted: 7/12/2011 12:22:41 AM EDT
[#25]
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looks great! Thanks!
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Posted: 7/12/2011 2:59:25 AM EDT
[#26]
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looks great! Thanks! I am diggin the tile layout! |
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Posted: 7/12/2011 3:04:44 AM EDT
[#27]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: looks great! Thanks! I am diggin the tile layout! Same here. That's pretty slick. |
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Posted: 7/12/2011 10:32:54 AM EDT
[#28]
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looks great! Thanks! I am diggin the tile layout! Same here. That's pretty slick. It should be done by this afternoon.
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Posted: 7/12/2011 6:42:55 PM EDT
[#29]
Here's a pic of the plug Keith_J.
Shower 
The latest project. 
While building the closet and back door we discovered that a leak has rotted out the balcony. Every thing will have to be replaced. 
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Posted: 7/12/2011 6:55:50 PM EDT
[#30]
Keith pointed out one electrical code violation, but another obvious one is the lack of TR receptacles and possibly missing GFCI's. Also, it's tough to tell in the pictures, but improper spacing of receptacles appears to be prevalent.
I'm assuming this is getting inspect? Also, does your electrician use a tape measure? Everything is different heights. 
At any rate, that's a decent size project for your first one and I'm sure you will learn a lot. |
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Posted: 7/12/2011 7:13:34 PM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:
Keith pointed out one electrical code violation, but another obvious one is the lack of TR receptacles and possibly missing GFCI's. Also, it's tough to tell in the pictures, but improper spacing of receptacles appears to be prevalent. I'm assuming this is getting inspect? Also, does your electrician use a tape measure? Everything is different heights.
At any rate, that's a decent size project for your first one and I'm sure you will learn a lot. We did not touch any outlets aside from adding the 220 lines. In what pictures do you see different heights? We are definitely going to add GFIs when we are doing final. |
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Posted: 7/12/2011 7:34:28 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted: Keith pointed out one electrical code violation, but another obvious one is the lack of TR receptacles and possibly missing GFCI's. Also, it's tough to tell in the pictures, but improper spacing of receptacles appears to be prevalent. I'm assuming this is getting inspect? Also, does your electrician use a tape measure? Everything is different heights. At any rate, that's a decent size project for your first one and I'm sure you will learn a lot. IF the wiring was replaced, then it would have to be up to code. But if the outlets were not moved, then it can stay. The issue of new appliances being wired to a NEMA 10-50 R would require a licensed electrician. |
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Posted: 7/12/2011 7:41:36 PM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Keith pointed out one electrical code violation, but another obvious one is the lack of TR receptacles and possibly missing GFCI's. Also, it's tough to tell in the pictures, but improper spacing of receptacles appears to be prevalent. I'm assuming this is getting inspect? Also, does your electrician use a tape measure? Everything is different heights.
At any rate, that's a decent size project for your first one and I'm sure you will learn a lot. IF the wiring was replaced, then it would have to be up to code. But if the outlets were not moved, then it can stay. The issue of new appliances being wired to a NEMA 10-50 R would require a licensed electrician. Did you see the picture of the outlet? We did have an electrician run the 220 lines because we wanted electric stoves. Is that the 'correct' outlet? |
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Posted: 7/13/2011 3:46:29 AM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Keith pointed out one electrical code violation, but another obvious one is the lack of TR receptacles and possibly missing GFCI's. Also, it's tough to tell in the pictures, but improper spacing of receptacles appears to be prevalent. I'm assuming this is getting inspect? Also, does your electrician use a tape measure? Everything is different heights.
At any rate, that's a decent size project for your first one and I'm sure you will learn a lot. IF the wiring was replaced, then it would have to be up to code. But if the outlets were not moved, then it can stay. The issue of new appliances being wired to a NEMA 10-50 R would require a licensed electrician. In one of the earlier posts he mentioned the electrician running new lines for the range, price and all. I would assume that meant that the hack of an electrician ran new lines. As to "REQUIRING" a licensed electrician (which I am), that is dependent upon his state and then the township/city/municipality. I don't know what his state does or does not require. Not all of PA requires licensed electricians to do the work. You probably already googled that one. |
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Posted: 7/13/2011 3:50:09 AM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
Quoted:
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Keith pointed out one electrical code violation, but another obvious one is the lack of TR receptacles and possibly missing GFCI's. Also, it's tough to tell in the pictures, but improper spacing of receptacles appears to be prevalent. I'm assuming this is getting inspect? Also, does your electrician use a tape measure? Everything is different heights.
At any rate, that's a decent size project for your first one and I'm sure you will learn a lot. IF the wiring was replaced, then it would have to be up to code. But if the outlets were not moved, then it can stay. The issue of new appliances being wired to a NEMA 10-50 R would require a licensed electrician. Did you see the picture of the outlet? We did have an electrician run the 220 lines because we wanted electric stoves. Is that the 'correct' outlet? Your picture shows a non grounding (no neutral) 10-50r . You need a 14-50r. Your electrician should have ran 3 conductors and a ground. |
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Posted: 7/13/2011 3:54:13 AM EDT
[#36]
I don't know how the hell all you eagle eyes can see that receptacle clear enough to tell whether it is 3 wire or 4 wire, but I can't believe any electrician would be dumb enough to put in a 3 wire range receptacle in 2011.
Looking pretty good man! Keep it up and thanks for sharing. |
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Posted: 7/13/2011 4:02:18 AM EDT
[#37]
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Bathroom pics.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc290/LcPokerPro/2011-07-11_14-10-30_450.jpg I want this one for my records. http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc290/LcPokerPro/2011-07-11_14-11-08_166.jpg Glad you used redguard. Next time look into denshield instead of green board. |
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Posted: 7/13/2011 4:14:07 AM EDT
[#38]
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You do know that if you install the insulation with the writing upside down moisture will collect against the craft paper and cause Black Mold, right?
and you let us in on this small fact AFTER he's hung, taped, floated and painted the drywall. what a pal. -tom |
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Posted: 7/13/2011 7:14:01 PM EDT
[#39]
The slate fire place. It will really 'pop' one it's been sealed.
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Posted: 7/13/2011 7:21:14 PM EDT
[#40]
This is way too nice for tenants.
 They will love it but break it. Can I fly you out with your tools –– I'm liking the style? |
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Posted: 7/13/2011 8:07:03 PM EDT
[#41]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
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Keith pointed out one electrical code violation, but another obvious one is the lack of TR receptacles and possibly missing GFCI's. Also, it's tough to tell in the pictures, but improper spacing of receptacles appears to be prevalent. I'm assuming this is getting inspect? Also, does your electrician use a tape measure? Everything is different heights.
At any rate, that's a decent size project for your first one and I'm sure you will learn a lot. IF the wiring was replaced, then it would have to be up to code. But if the outlets were not moved, then it can stay. The issue of new appliances being wired to a NEMA 10-50 R would require a licensed electrician. Did you see the picture of the outlet? We did have an electrician run the 220 lines because we wanted electric stoves. Is that the 'correct' outlet? Your picture shows a non grounding (no neutral) 10-50r . You need a 14-50r. Your electrician should have ran 3 conductors and a ground. I'll be calling him tomorrow. This is our 'regular' guy and needs to make it right if he wants any more work. |
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Posted: 7/13/2011 9:16:01 PM EDT
[#42]
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Bathroom pics.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc290/LcPokerPro/2011-07-11_14-10-30_450.jpg I want this one for my records. http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc290/LcPokerPro/2011-07-11_14-11-08_166.jpg Glad you used redguard. Next time look into denshield instead of green board. I'll look into it. |
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Posted: 7/17/2011 9:48:56 PM EDT
[#43]
Progress
The slate mosaic really ties in the living room fireplace. 
I wish this one came out better. The floors are looking sweet.
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Posted: 7/18/2011 8:10:12 AM EDT
[#44]
btt
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Posted: 7/18/2011 4:50:28 PM EDT
[#45]
I like.
I don't see this taking long to rent. |
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Posted: 7/18/2011 5:14:25 PM EDT
[#46]
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I like. I don't see this taking long to rent. Or long for the renters to screw it up. Good work OP, I wish I had a tenth of your skills. I have alot of remodeling ahead on my place, and lack the skills needed. TRG |
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Posted: 7/18/2011 6:10:24 PM EDT
[#47]
Quoted:
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Is the sound board generally the best option for sound proofing? The thicker the space between the walls the better. Some tricks I learned - Apply soundboard to the neighbor wall with sealant Insulate the walls, spray foam seems to work the best. Use two sheets of drywall on your side. Apply silicone sealant to the studs before hanging the your side drywall. Screw, don't nail the drywall into the studs. Three things to remember for sound controlling sound transmition. a, Airborne sound. b, Disconnection. c, Density. A, Caulk the walls, the top and sill plates, and any other opening. The greatest sound transmition reduction is by stopping airbone sound. It get through the smallest hole. B, Diconnect your wall from the other. Frame it a half inch away if possible and do not let it touch the other wall. If its wall to wall stager the framing so the studes do not align up. For a single wall you can use 2 x 6 for the sill and top plate. Rip it down the middle before installing leaving the gap, now stud on both sides of the gap with a notch cut after the gap, and again stager. C, Make the wall dense. Batt insulation in the walls without the paper to absorn sound. At least two layers of sheet rock. Yape the first layer too. Some install the layers in different direction. The reason is to make the wall stiff to reduce vibration. The opposing walls should be differnt thicknesses, so they vibrate differently and help cancel the sound transmittion. You know why they sell solid core doors (sound). I worked in a movie theater project and we installed four layers of 5/8 sheet rock, each one taped and mudded. Keep in mind not much will help a deep base type of sound or a strng mechanical typ of sound. Use these techniques and you will have great results. That sound board is just an expensive dense material. Building this types of walls will give results of hearing something twice as loud in the other room, or better. Using silicone as the above poster sugested is a great idea too. The silicone acts as a dampener and retards vibration transfer. It does an excellent job for the bucks spent. This second layer of sheetrock will usually be all you will need to apply if you already have one layer of sheetrock up in the room. These are some of the more common things to do that work very well. I got carried away here. Goog luck, 
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Posted: 7/18/2011 6:58:36 PM EDT
[#48]
I can see that you're doing a lot of hard work on the place - good for you! If you don't mind some unsolicited advice ~ Consider putting the rentals under an LLC. That gives you a bit of protection just in case one of your tenants decides to get drunk, climb up on the roof and take a nosedive into the hedges...all of which was your fault, of course. Also, if you're in an LLC, you can pull credit reports. Credit reports are a huge deal! I can learn more about a person by looking at their credit report more than anything else. Check out citicredit.net if you're interested. Screen your tenants, screen your tenants, screen your tenants. If you properly screen your tenants, keep your homes looking good and your tenants happy - 90% of your problems will disappear. Being a good landlord doesn't mean that you have to act like an authoritarian tool. I actually have one home where the tenant told me this spring that she wasn't really happy with the way that the home was laid out. (They've been there for four years.) I asked her why she hadn't moved if she didn't like the house. She replied "We like renting from you." |
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Posted: 7/18/2011 8:11:17 PM EDT
[#49]
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I like. I don't see this taking long to rent. Two units are already gone. Signing leases on Monday
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Posted: 7/18/2011 8:13:28 PM EDT
[#50]
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I like. I don't see this taking long to rent. Or long for the renters to screw it up. Good work OP, I wish I had a tenth of your skills. I have alot of remodeling ahead on my place, and lack the skills needed. TRG I can only take a tenth of the credit. We have a serious time crunch to refinance the building so we had to hire a few additional guys. |
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