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Link Posted: 8/31/2015 12:35:13 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Huskercoop:



Can you show me where the cap and rotor are on any engine made in the last 5 years?
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Originally Posted By Huskercoop:
Originally Posted By bjohnson425:
plugs

wires

rotor

dist cap



will be about $75 total and 45 minutes of your time


ETA: Also run a can of seafoam through it BEFORE you change your plugs. IT may smoke like a bitch for a few miles but that shit does wonders on old built up carbon.



Can you show me where the cap and rotor are on any engine made in the last 5 years?


Let me guess, they made things more complicated so folks couldn't work on them?  
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 12:37:28 PM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:
Original plugs, just a tad under 100k.
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Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:



Originally Posted By Huskercoop:

You will be fine. How many miles? Ever changed the plugs?




Original plugs, just a tad under 100k.






 
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 12:38:47 PM EDT
Timing belt probably jumped a couple teeth.

Good luck

Link Posted: 8/31/2015 12:50:25 PM EDT
Check fuel pressure and clean the throttle body while you tune it up (also check air filter condition).
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 12:51:12 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:


At last, somebody telling me what I wanted to hear. Going to fix it, they just can't do it until Thursday. Live 12 miles from town, so it's kind of a long walk to not drive it until then.
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Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:
Originally Posted By abtex1:
Not unsafe.  Misfires are common.  Clear the code and drive it.  If it comes back immediately then change the obvious items- plugs, wires, ignition coil.



At last, somebody telling me what I wanted to hear. Going to fix it, they just can't do it until Thursday. Live 12 miles from town, so it's kind of a long walk to not drive it until then.

It was probably misfiring for a while before the light came on. It just wasn't bad enough for the code to come on. You can try to fix it yourself by replacing the coil and plug at cylinder 1. Advanced auto or pepboys should have the parts in stock.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 12:52:27 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By HUMONGO:
My jeep did the same thing. Was the wires shorting. When it's dark, lift the hood with it running. Do you see a spark from the wire grounding to the engine?
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2010 jeeps still use spark plug wires?
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 12:56:52 PM EDT
I wouldnt. good way to destroy your cats.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 12:57:34 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Solace22:
I wouldnt. good way to destroy your cats.
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Good point, OP how far is the drive from work to home?
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 1:02:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/31/2015 1:03:32 PM EDT by 6winchester2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:


Original plugs, just a tad under 100k.
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Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:
Originally Posted By Huskercoop:
You will be fine. How many miles? Ever changed the plugs?


Original plugs, just a tad under 100k.


Plugs, plug wires, and coil.

Start there.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 1:07:06 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:


Oil is fine, not jerky at all. It just acts like I'm not giving it enough gas up to 2,000 RPM. It sputters/wheezes. Going in Thursday at 8:00. I have to pick the kids up from school- no bus service today, so I don't have any choice but to drive it.
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Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:
Originally Posted By brian4wd:
My '97 civic was throwing a misfire code when the headgasket failed.

Does the oil look like chocolate milk?


Oil is fine, not jerky at all. It just acts like I'm not giving it enough gas up to 2,000 RPM. It sputters/wheezes. Going in Thursday at 8:00. I have to pick the kids up from school- no bus service today, so I don't have any choice but to drive it.


Probably lost spark to one of your cylinders, once the engine is spinning fast enough momentum makes up for the loss.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 1:11:21 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:


At least I didn't buy a fourth Land Rover like I almost did
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Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:
Originally Posted By M82Assault:
Engine misfires are fine until you have to replace the cat or the car burns down because the cat got too hot and burnt up.

Seriously, get it looked at and quit driving it, before you break something even more expensive. And next time, don't buy a Chrysler product.


At least I didn't buy a fourth Land Rover like I almost did



1 Disco was enough for me.   But I have been looking again
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 1:15:41 PM EDT
P0301 is a Cylinder 1 Misfire.

What engine is in your Jeep? More then likely it is a coil on plug and will not have wires. The early 5.7 Hemi's had wires but have now been converted to COP.

Most Jeeps use standard, Champion plugs. They are recommended to be changed by the factory manual every 30k. If you have any mechanical abilities, you can pull the #1 plug and inspect for carbon tracking, worn electrode etc. I'd replace the plugs with OE Champions, no need to use anything special. and swap the coil with one on the opposite side of the engine and retest. IF you do find Carbon tracking, it is necessary to replace the coil boot.

IF the misfire returns after swapping the coil and replacing the plug, pull the code and see if your misfire is now on the cylinder you swapped coils with. You then need to replace that coil.

Link Posted: 8/31/2015 1:17:49 PM EDT
lmao..these threads are great for picking out the automotive ignorant.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 1:27:17 PM EDT
unsafe, imagine if it stalls on the railroad tracks and a freight train comes roaring in and turns the car into a pile of scrap metal, or you can't accelerate to get out of the way of a semi, etc etc
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 3:04:42 PM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By gwitness:


lmao..these threads are great for picking out the automotive ignorant.
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Shut up you thief.  How dare you insinuate that it takes more then a 5 dollar scan tool and duct tape to fix a car.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 3:06:38 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By tmleadr03:

  Shut up you thief.  How dare you insinuate that it takes more then a 5 dollar scan tool and duct tape to fix a car.
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Originally Posted By tmleadr03:
Originally Posted By gwitness:
lmao..these threads are great for picking out the automotive ignorant.

  Shut up you thief.  How dare you insinuate that it takes more then a 5 dollar scan tool and duct tape to fix a car.

Link Posted: 8/31/2015 3:22:24 PM EDT
change the plugs, give it some injector cleaner
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 3:24:53 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By gwitness:

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Originally Posted By gwitness:
Originally Posted By tmleadr03:
Originally Posted By gwitness:
lmao..these threads are great for picking out the automotive ignorant.

  Shut up you thief.  How dare you insinuate that it takes more then a 5 dollar scan tool and duct tape to fix a car.



nailed it.

Link Posted: 8/31/2015 3:33:23 PM EDT
Just change the plugs and wires (boots if it has cops).  if that doesn't do it buy a coil for cylinder #1.  I wouldn't pay a shop to do plugs, they will hit you with 1 hour labor for diagnosis and 1 hr to do the plugs that you can do with a couple sockets.  Just make sure you grease both ends of the boots or wires with spark plug grease.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 3:47:26 PM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By GPJohn:


Just change the plugs and wires (boots if it has cops).  if that doesn't do it buy a coil for cylinder #1.  I wouldn't pay a shop to do plugs, they will hit you with 1 hour labor for diagnosis and 1 hr to do the plugs that you can do with a couple sockets.  Just make sure you grease both ends of the boots or wires with spark plug grease.
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It really depends on what engine he has.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 3:50:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/31/2015 4:22:29 PM EDT by JoseCuervo]
Why is everyone convinced it is a secondary ignition problem? Throwing parts at cars gets expensive quick. It is best to work on a diagnostic plan. Google P0301...


Symptoms
Symptoms may include:
•the engine may be harder to start
•the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
•other symptoms may also be present

Causes

A code P0301 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

•Faulty spark plug or wire
•Faulty coil (pack)
•Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
•Faulty fuel injector
•Burned exhaust valve
•Faulty catalytic converter(s)
•Running out of fuel
•Poor compression
•Defective computer
View Quote


Test the O2 sensor. Test the fuel pressure. Do a backpressure test on the cat.. Cylinder compression tests..
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 3:58:45 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By gwitness:
lmao..these threads are great for picking out the automotive ignorant.
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Points are worn..  A coat hanger and some duct tape and shes as good as new.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 4:03:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/31/2015 4:04:15 PM EDT by Dustrod]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bjohnson425:
plugs

wires


rotor

dist cap



will be about $75 total and 45 minutes of your time


ETA: Also run a can of seafoam through it BEFORE you change your plugs. IT may smoke like a bitch for a few miles but that shit does wonders on old built up carbon.
View Quote


LOL.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 4:04:53 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By 6winchester2:


Plugs, plug wires, and coil.

Start there.
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Originally Posted By 6winchester2:
Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:
Originally Posted By Huskercoop:
You will be fine. How many miles? Ever changed the plugs?


Original plugs, just a tad under 100k.


Plugs, plug wires, and coil.

Start there.



LOL
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 4:05:23 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Strykewolf:



ROFL.

Cap, rotor, plugs, wires...it's time.
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Originally Posted By Strykewolf:
Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:
Originally Posted By Huskercoop:
You will be fine. How many miles? Ever changed the plugs?


Original plugs, just a tad under 100k.



ROFL.

Cap, rotor, plugs, wires...it's time.



LOL
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 4:07:06 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Dustrod:



LOL
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Originally Posted By Dustrod:
Originally Posted By Strykewolf:
Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:
Originally Posted By Huskercoop:
You will be fine. How many miles? Ever changed the plugs?


Original plugs, just a tad under 100k.



ROFL.

Cap, rotor, plugs, wires...it's time.



LOL


You realize not all cars are coil on plug right?  Some still have wires.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 4:08:18 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 4:10:02 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Doppleganger871:
Egads man!  

I never let my plugs go more than a couple years, maybe 3 at most.  Used to do them every year when I was only driving 1 vehicle.

Plugs or coils, if it was a crank or cam sensor, it'd be pretty non-functional.  
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Why...
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 4:10:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/31/2015 4:11:38 PM EDT by Dustrod]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By StewartTR:


You realize not all cars are coil on plug right?  Some still have wires.
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Originally Posted By StewartTR:
Originally Posted By Dustrod:
Originally Posted By Strykewolf:
Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:
Originally Posted By Huskercoop:
You will be fine. How many miles? Ever changed the plugs?


Original plugs, just a tad under 100k.



ROFL.

Cap, rotor, plugs, wires...it's time.



LOL


You realize not all cars are coil on plug right?  Some still have wires.


Does a 2010 Jeep have a distributor, rotor, cap, wires , coil, or points? Because that is what the OP is asking about

ETA - and obviously I am referring to a stand alone coil
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 4:12:11 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By StewartTR:


You realize not all cars are coil on plug right?  Some still have wires.
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Originally Posted By StewartTR:
Originally Posted By Dustrod:
Originally Posted By Strykewolf:
Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:
Originally Posted By Huskercoop:
You will be fine. How many miles? Ever changed the plugs?


Original plugs, just a tad under 100k.



ROFL.

Cap, rotor, plugs, wires...it's time.



LOL


You realize not all cars are coil on plug right?  Some still have wires.


How many still have a cap and rotor?
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 4:13:05 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:


Original plugs, just a tad under 100k.
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Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:
Originally Posted By Huskercoop:
You will be fine. How many miles? Ever changed the plugs?


Original plugs, just a tad under 100k.


Jesus Christ.

TC
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 4:16:03 PM EDT
Lots of new(er) vehicles have 100K miles plugs.. My 2009 GM does.


Step up to the latest spark plug technology with ACDelco’s Professional Iridium Spark Plugs. Designed to last more than
100,000 miles* in most applications, ACDelco Iridium Plugs are the ideal replacement for today’s top-performing
vehicles.
View Quote
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 4:17:03 PM EDT
Which engine?
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 4:25:13 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By JoseCuervo:
Lots of new(er) vehicles have 100K miles plugs.. My 2009 GM does.


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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By JoseCuervo:
Lots of new(er) vehicles have 100K miles plugs.. My 2009 GM does.


Step up to the latest spark plug technology with ACDelco’s Professional Iridium Spark Plugs. Designed to last more than
100,000 miles* in most applications, ACDelco Iridium Plugs are the ideal replacement for today’s top-performing
vehicles.


A lot of chryslers are still on 30k intervals iirc.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 5:15:26 PM EDT
Abandon all hope ye who enter here.



arfcom is the worst place to seek advice on anything automotive related.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 5:33:16 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By JoseCuervo:
Why is everyone convinced it is a secondary ignition problem? Throwing parts at cars gets expensive quick. It is best to work on a diagnostic plan. Google P0301...




Test the O2 sensor. Test the fuel pressure. Do a backpressure test on the cat.. Cylinder compression tests..
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Originally Posted By JoseCuervo:
Why is everyone convinced it is a secondary ignition problem? Throwing parts at cars gets expensive quick. It is best to work on a diagnostic plan. Google P0301...


Symptoms
Symptoms may include:
•the engine may be harder to start
•the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
•other symptoms may also be present

Causes

A code P0301 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

•Faulty spark plug or wire
•Faulty coil (pack)
•Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
•Faulty fuel injector
•Burned exhaust valve
•Faulty catalytic converter(s)
•Running out of fuel
•Poor compression
•Defective computer


Test the O2 sensor. Test the fuel pressure. Do a backpressure test on the cat.. Cylinder compression tests..


lol.


Link Posted: 8/31/2015 5:45:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/31/2015 6:05:03 PM EDT by JoseCuervo]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AgeOne:
lol.


View Quote



Those kinds of posts always crack me up. Are you a parts changer or a technician?

If the former, which part are you going to go buy first to see if it fixes the problem?  Second? Third? At what point have you spent more than what you planned on and still have the code and symptoms?

If the latter, what would you test first?


One year olds...






ETA: Unless you are LOL'ing at the Google results for that code, cause I LOL'd too. A misfire can be fucking caused by nearly anything. There are a lot of parts to change without some diagnostics. Test what you can, at least. Even start with some carb cleaner and look for a vacuum leak.

Link Posted: 8/31/2015 6:04:43 PM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By JoseCuervo:
Those kinds of posts always crack me up. Are you a parts changer or a technician?



If the former, which part are you going to go buy first to see if it fixes the problem?  Second? Third? At what point have you spent more than what you planned on and still have the code and symptoms?



If the latter, what would you test first?





One year olds...





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Originally Posted By JoseCuervo:



Originally Posted By AgeOne:

lol.











Those kinds of posts always crack me up. Are you a parts changer or a technician?



If the former, which part are you going to go buy first to see if it fixes the problem?  Second? Third? At what point have you spent more than what you planned on and still have the code and symptoms?



If the latter, what would you test first?





One year olds...









 
_lol_
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 6:06:02 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By JoseCuervo:



Those kinds of posts always crack me up. Are you a parts changer or a technician?

If the former, which part are you going to go buy first to see if it fixes the problem?  Second? Third? At what point have you spent more than what you planned on and still have the code and symptoms?

If the latter, what would you test first?


One year olds...


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Originally Posted By JoseCuervo:
Originally Posted By AgeOne:
lol.





Those kinds of posts always crack me up. Are you a parts changer or a technician?

If the former, which part are you going to go buy first to see if it fixes the problem?  Second? Third? At what point have you spent more than what you planned on and still have the code and symptoms?

If the latter, what would you test first?


One year olds...




the oxygen sensor part is whats funny. I would love someone to tell me how a oxygen sensor caused a single cyl misfire (or any misfire for that matter) its a google cut and paste that goes from plausible to silly. a few experts have chimed in, and the sage advice to not drive the vehicle due to a potential catalyst melt down was given, the OP ignored



I'm a technician, and shop owner. if one of my techs told me the oxygen sensor was causing the misfire I would tell them its probably time for the tool box to go to the tire store, I'm not going to buy any parts to see what fixes it, I'm going to diagnose it correctly then replace what needs to be replaced.

here's the deal, its really easy to diagnose a misfire, and everyone is making it so goddamn complicated and wanting to change shit modern cars don't even have.

simple diagnosis to a misfire, Identify the cyl, the most likely its a coil in plug system, it would take minuets to swap the coil with another cyl and check to see if the misfire moves, if it does you need a coil.

if not, pull the plug and inspect, check the insulator and the ground/ electrode for wear, it should be pretty obvious. 99% chance its in one of these two parts.

if not, next check is obviously injector, unplug the coils and crank it, check to see if there is fuel in the cyl.

if no fuel check using the amp clamp and o-scope the wave pattern of the injector vs the voltage signal from the ECU, particularly if its direct injection. this is obviously beyond what you can check in your yard.

if you have fuel, and spark, its time to inspect for a compression issue, which is unlikely in this case. a cracked valve is going to have a constant misfire and a flashing CEL. worn rings causing low compression the misfire will clear up as engine speed increases off idle. at 100k miles its unlikely unless the vehicle is very poorly maintained. rings are a easy check, check compression, add a bit of oil and if it comes up temporarily the rings are worn.

In short, its either a plug or a coil, though it sounds like he's working on getting a new catalytic converter too.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 6:11:38 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:


At last, somebody telling me what I wanted to hear. Going to fix it, they just can't do it until Thursday. Live 12 miles from town, so it's kind of a long walk to not drive it until then.
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Originally Posted By PikeSlayer:
Originally Posted By abtex1:
Not unsafe.  Misfires are common.  Clear the code and drive it.  If it comes back immediately then change the obvious items- plugs, wires, ignition coil.



At last, somebody telling me what I wanted to hear. Going to fix it, they just can't do it until Thursday. Live 12 miles from town, so it's kind of a long walk to not drive it until then.

Hopefully it isn't something related to the timing chain.

My Ford had timing chain issues. It ran like a spark plug wasn't working. It was rough. Then it started making the noises one day. Thankfully the timing chain was replaced before the engine said aloha snack bar. I'm sure that sound would have been glorious in the bad sort of way.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 6:14:21 PM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AgeOne:
the oxygen sensor part is whats funny. I would love someone to tell me how a oxygen sensor caused a single cyl misfire (or any misfire for that matter) its a google cut and paste that goes from plausible to silly. a few experts have chimed in, and the sage advice to not drive the vehicle due to a potential catalyst melt down was given, the OP ignored
I'm a technician, and shop owner. if one of my techs told me the oxygen sensor was causing the misfire I would tell them its probably time for the tool box to go to the tire store, I'm not going to buy any parts to see what fixes it, I'm going to diagnose it correctly then replace what needs to be replaced.



here's the deal, its really easy to diagnose a misfire, and everyone is making it so goddamn complicated and wanting to change shit modern cars don't even have.



simple diagnosis to a misfire, Identify the cyl, the most likely its a coil in plug system, it would take minuets to swap the coil with another cyl and check to see if the misfire moves, if it does you need a coil.



if not, pull the plug and inspect, check the insulator and the ground/ electrode for wear, it should be pretty obvious. 99% chance its in one of these two parts.



if not, next check is obviously injector, unplug the coils and crank it, check to see if there is fuel in the cyl.



if no fuel check using the amp clamp and o-scope the wave pattern of the injector vs the voltage signal from the ECU, particularly if its direct injection. this is obviously beyond what you can check in your yard.



if you have fuel, and spark, its time to inspect for a compression issue, which is unlikely in this case. a cracked valve is going to have a constant misfire and a flashing CEL. worn rings causing low compression the misfire will clear up as engine speed increases off idle. at 100k miles its unlikely unless the vehicle is very poorly maintained. rings are a easy check, check compression, add a bit of oil and if it comes up temporarily the rings are worn.



In short, its either a plug or a coil, though it sounds like he's working on getting a new catalytic converter too.
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Originally Posted By AgeOne:



Originally Posted By JoseCuervo:


Originally Posted By AgeOne:

lol.











Those kinds of posts always crack me up. Are you a parts changer or a technician?



If the former, which part are you going to go buy first to see if it fixes the problem?  Second? Third? At what point have you spent more than what you planned on and still have the code and symptoms?



If the latter, what would you test first?





One year olds...









the oxygen sensor part is whats funny. I would love someone to tell me how a oxygen sensor caused a single cyl misfire (or any misfire for that matter) its a google cut and paste that goes from plausible to silly. a few experts have chimed in, and the sage advice to not drive the vehicle due to a potential catalyst melt down was given, the OP ignored
I'm a technician, and shop owner. if one of my techs told me the oxygen sensor was causing the misfire I would tell them its probably time for the tool box to go to the tire store, I'm not going to buy any parts to see what fixes it, I'm going to diagnose it correctly then replace what needs to be replaced.



here's the deal, its really easy to diagnose a misfire, and everyone is making it so goddamn complicated and wanting to change shit modern cars don't even have.



simple diagnosis to a misfire, Identify the cyl, the most likely its a coil in plug system, it would take minuets to swap the coil with another cyl and check to see if the misfire moves, if it does you need a coil.



if not, pull the plug and inspect, check the insulator and the ground/ electrode for wear, it should be pretty obvious. 99% chance its in one of these two parts.



if not, next check is obviously injector, unplug the coils and crank it, check to see if there is fuel in the cyl.



if no fuel check using the amp clamp and o-scope the wave pattern of the injector vs the voltage signal from the ECU, particularly if its direct injection. this is obviously beyond what you can check in your yard.



if you have fuel, and spark, its time to inspect for a compression issue, which is unlikely in this case. a cracked valve is going to have a constant misfire and a flashing CEL. worn rings causing low compression the misfire will clear up as engine speed increases off idle. at 100k miles its unlikely unless the vehicle is very poorly maintained. rings are a easy check, check compression, add a bit of oil and if it comes up temporarily the rings are worn.



In short, its either a plug or a coil, though it sounds like he's working on getting a new catalytic converter too.




 
Jeep does not shut down individual injectors for a missfire if I remember correctly, but I work on German so I could be wrong.  BMW is nice enough if you have a dead miss to kill the injector to that cylinder so you don't kill the cat.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 6:14:45 PM EDT
Thanks for clarifying your post AgeOne.  I agree, a lot of diagnostics are beyond the shade tree mechanics abilities or tool availabilities, but you can still eliminate some issues at home with voltmeters, fuel pressure tests, etc. Tests at home are free, parts to try out are expensive and usually not returnable (electronics). If the OP had the knowledge, swapping coil packs from other cylinders may be an option. I don't think at this point there is enough vehicle info to help any more. A bad fuel pump at 100K miles wouldn't surprise me.

I am not sure if the OP was looking for help fixing this vehicle, or just wondering about safety.  As noted above by another, you might need all the get-up-and-go the thing has when it is running right, but it might not be there and leave you in a tight spot.

Cheers-

Link Posted: 8/31/2015 6:28:37 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By tmleadr03:
  Jeep does not shut down individual injectors for a missfire if I remember correctly, but I work on German so I could be wrong.  BMW is nice enough if you have a dead miss to kill the injector to that cylinder so you don't kill the cat.
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I also only work on German vehicles (VW/ Audi), I wasn't aware injector shutoff was functional on anything but MED 17.5+ (UDS) systems. I know the older ME systems don't and MED 17.2 doesn't because I've replaced cats on them (Q7 4.2, cracked insulator, by the time he got here, the cat was a rock and it wouldn't rev past 2500 with misfires 5-8 above idle)  it would have been a $150 tow.... ended up being a cat too.

UDS is a whole new ballgame, its gonna be funny watching eveyrone play catchup with this one
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