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Link Posted: 1/27/2014 12:31:30 PM EDT
[#1]
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I just find them funny and think most are at best! However, I think the hardcore cyclists just might believe in most of them!
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The self important, overly pretentious, douche-nozzles that wrote that up need their heads kicked in.


I just find them funny and think most are at best! However, I think the hardcore cyclists just might believe in most of them!


Honestly I only violate the headphones rule.

And yes when like me you spend about 14k in the past 12 months cycling, yeah it makes you a elitist.  
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 2:51:04 PM EDT
[#2]
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Cycling Rules: Read them, learn them, know them, live by them

Especially Rule 5 and Rule 20!

My advice is don't try to ride more than your butt is used to handling at first, do not try riding too many consecutive days at first, buy good gear to start and you won't spend more on replacing the cheap stuff later, and make sure you are eating and drinking enough.
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Decent set of rules for beginners....but so much derp.

Esample. Rule #40. Labels go opposite the valve stem to offset the weight of the valve stem. Labels also face the chainring side for pics.

Link Posted: 1/27/2014 3:53:36 PM EDT
[#3]
Some pretty good advice.  I would add that for a first bike, maybe get something used off Craigslist.  Tons of decent used road bikes.  Hard core cyclists always have to have the latest and greatest go through new bikes pretty fast.  But the whole reason behind this is you will figure out so many things that you really want in a bike with your first bike that it's not worth it to spend too much out the door.

Plan on mishaps.  Carry a spare tube and pump, tools and a chain tool.  I had several close calls with cars until I put flashing lights front and rear and use them all the time.  Cars definitely see me now.

Get good shorts/bibs and gloves.  Pretty necessary after your rides exceed 10 miles.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 4:33:20 PM EDT
[#4]
Also - regarding a type of bike

I personally like wider tires (hence I ride a mountain bike) - it's the same reason I drive a truck... if I need to go offroad I can with no problem


lots of the trails around me are dirt - packed dirt but still easier on a mountain bike... it's a bit harder to pedal on the pavement but I chalk that up to a better workout....


My wife has skinny tires - we're looking to swap out with some fatter road tires that will do OK on light offroad stuff as well....


ymmv - skinny tires are easier to ride on pavement.... also less forgiving on potholes
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 6:15:38 PM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:



Decent set of rules for beginners....but so much derp.

Esample. Rule #40. Labels go opposite the valve stem to offset the weight of the valve stem. Labels also face the chainring side for pics.

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Quoted:
Quoted:
Cycling Rules: Read them, learn them, know them, live by them

Especially Rule 5 and Rule 20!

My advice is don't try to ride more than your butt is used to handling at first, do not try riding too many consecutive days at first, buy good gear to start and you won't spend more on replacing the cheap stuff later, and make sure you are eating and drinking enough.



Decent set of rules for beginners....but so much derp.

Esample. Rule #40. Labels go opposite the valve stem to offset the weight of the valve stem. Labels also face the chainring side for pics.



But the heaviest spot on the wheel is 180d opposite the valve stem where the rim is joined with a tongue and welded. (Not that the label adds weight anyway)
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 6:29:54 PM EDT
[#6]
As others have said, spend the coin for a good bike. Someone at a reputable bike shop can help you out - no reason not to buy a good used bike, a lot of shops will have some in stock, and you can save some money. I've put well over a thousand miles on my 1970's-era Panasonic road bike. Bought it originally for $250.

If you wind up having fun, you should come do TOSRV the following May. Back to back centuries over the course of a weekend
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 6:43:31 PM EDT
[#7]
I won't rehash everything others have said. But for me here is my advice.
Get a decent bike. Proper fit is VERY important. Have a knowledgeable person/shop do it.
Quality cycling clothing is important, no cutoff jeans don't work.
Proper Nutrition and hydration before and during the race.
You will need long rides before the 100, maybe not a full 100 but you need to know you can do 2/3 of that with little hardship.
Spin. Spin. Spin. Cadence over speed.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 7:00:38 PM EDT
[#8]
Find a safe area like a big parking lot to practice things like unclipping and using your water bottles.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 7:07:32 PM EDT
[#9]
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Go to your local bike shop and get the bike fit to you.  
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And HAVE THEM FIT YOU FOR A SADDLE.  The saddle that comes on the bike will NOT fit you correctly.

Learn to hydrate.  Learn proper pedaling form.  Get some good spandex, so you don't chafe.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 7:12:49 PM EDT
[#10]
You can get bikes at Wally World for the price of a box of 22LR on armslist.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 7:15:59 PM EDT
[#11]
get one with a motor
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 7:32:11 PM EDT
[#12]
I ride both on the street and trails.  Out here (San Diego), there is a huge biking scene and it's easy to pickup gear on craigslist.  Don't skimp out, you get what you pay for and it's easy to get discouraged.  It doesn't get easier, you only get faster.

From this Sunday, wife and I rode about 12 miles.

Link Posted: 1/27/2014 7:34:47 PM EDT
[#13]
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You need to plan for Peaking at the right time.

Also, not only long distance but do sprints.
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This, make sure you get a computer so you know distance and speed(the bonk is a bitch).
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 8:16:21 PM EDT
[#14]
A lot of great advice here! I have not seen too much advise on a stationary. Get a good stationary, since you live in a place where weather can call off a ride. Change your schedule and do morning conditioning rides. I found the stationary rides have improved both my endurance and comfort on longer rides. About once every other month I ride from Manhattan Beach pier to Channel Island Harbor. It's a 67 mile ride. From there I stay at a friends house and ride home the next day.



The stationary makes it easy to train often, but remember it is no substitution for an actual ride.



Link Posted: 1/27/2014 8:30:34 PM EDT
[#15]

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Stupid ass advice.  If you don't wear "spandex" and try to ride 100 miles you'll wind up with chafing so bad you won't be able to walk for days.
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in before the cycling haters.




Just don't be a douche, follow the traffic rules.  And don't wear spandex.




Stupid ass advice.  If you don't wear "spandex" and try to ride 100 miles you'll wind up with chafing so bad you won't be able to walk for days.
Plus loose fitting clothes will catch the wind adding more work to your ride. Anything to cut wind resistance=free speed.

 



Good advice so far. I'll add get an elevation profile for the ride (organizers might provide it or you can get it by mapping out the route on Mapmyrun). You might be able to tailor the gears with a new cassette. Sucks climbing a big ass hill and running out of gears.
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 8:36:54 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Hi guys me and my S/O are looking for some advice,we have decided to get in shape and start riding bikes on the road. We really want to start this spring and go from being moderately active but zero riding experience to riding in the seagull century ride this fall. Anyone have advice to help us get started? Equipment, training routines advice we need help with it all. Thanks guys
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the Seagull Century can be one of the fastest centuries, depending on the winds and weather...
Link Posted: 1/27/2014 8:40:08 PM EDT
[#17]

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also



cycling shorts



get your seat fitted to your ass..... wear proper shorts.... prepare for ass pain anyway
if you want to go riding sometime let me know - I need to get back out
also use something (like mapmyride above) to track your rides and progress.....



and a pic to motivate you - get out and ride is #1



https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/539753_10200453589919074_2087727342_n.jpg
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I miss riding in philly.

Plateau and the Wiss - fantastic.



 
Link Posted: 1/28/2014 9:35:31 AM EDT
[#18]
This mornings ride into work.  Lucky to have a dedicated path just about from my front door to the beach...about 12 miles.

Link Posted: 1/28/2014 10:40:12 AM EDT
[#19]
Thanks guys great stuff here so far. 2 questions  we were thinking about buying a trainer so we could ride the road bikes like stationaries in the house any thoughts?Also any bikes we should look for new or used in the $350-$500 range? Thats about the budget per bike without any other gear. We don't want to get too invested in it to start.
Link Posted: 1/28/2014 2:12:52 PM EDT
[#20]
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Thanks guys great stuff here so far. 2 questions  we were thinking about buying a trainer so we could ride the road bikes like stationaries in the house any thoughts?Also any bikes we should look for new or used in the $350-$500 range? Thats about the budget per bike without any other gear. We don't want to get too invested in it to start.
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I personally find trainers tough to ride.  They're not as fun as the real thing and 30 minute on one feels like 2 hours on the road.  Rollers although trickier to ride are more realistic, more fun, and can be cheaper.  That's all just personal preference however.  In either case put a fan in front of you while you ride and it'll feel quite a bit better right off the bat.

As for your price range...I really hate bearing bad news, but $350ish is more of what you should expect to spend after buying the bike rather than on the purchase price of the bike.  Very loosely speaking a helmet will be $80-100, shoes $100, shorts $60-80, jersey $50-70, gloves $30, tool kit (pump, levers, tube, allen wrenches, bag) $50, bottles & cages $25.  Do you need a bike rack, lock, lights, cold weather gear, floor pump, etc.?  You might also need to factor in extra for getting fitted, a saddle, stem, pedals, etc.  $500 will get you a decent new hybrid, but that's not going to work well for you on a ride of that distance.  Nor would a similarly priced mountain bike with slick tires.  Good quality road bikes generally start around $1,200 and of course go north from there.  Still, you might get lucky with a used deal.

You might check around and see if any shops do rentals so you could feel out the sport and see how serious you want to get before dropping some dough.  Scour the internet for good deals on something used.  Check cycling message boards, and visit your local shops (ideally not on a busy Saturday afternoon) and ask if they've got a lead on anything that would fit your needs.  Also check with any friends who are into cycling.  One of them is bound to have an extra bike somewhere that you could at least borrow for a few rides to check out.

Good luck & post pics when you complete your ride!!!
Link Posted: 1/28/2014 6:46:08 PM EDT
[#21]
Find some local cycling clubs
Find some local used bike shops - the ones around me usually have some good buys on very decent bikes & can properly fit you.

$350-$500 is going to be tough for something you're going to spend so much time on/with.

I recently switched to a Selle Anatomica Titanico saddle and my ass is much happier.  On sale it was $100 - this is not an inexpensive sport .
Link Posted: 1/28/2014 7:07:17 PM EDT
[#22]
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Labels also face the chainring side for pics.
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The baseless roadie folklore in my area was that labels were on the left hand side. Because in road racing most turns are right hand, and the label decreases traction when leaned way over. I suspect the label-on-the-right "rule" was because  that's the side the bike was usually photographed from, to show the crankset and derailleurs, and the tire companies like that idea of showing their labels.

These days my Michelins have big honkin' labels on both sides.

It makes a little sense to put the labels at the valve stems because it makes it easer to find tube damage if you know where the tire casing damage is.

Link Posted: 1/28/2014 7:09:38 PM EDT
[#23]
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Find some local cycling clubs
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Yeah. Strava.com is a lot of fun, too, and lets you see your progress as you ride more.
Link Posted: 1/29/2014 4:09:16 AM EDT
[#24]
going to have my SO send you some suggestions for you SO.
Link Posted: 1/29/2014 4:20:39 AM EDT
[#25]
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Not to be snarky, but ride a lot.

Get the lightest helmer you're willing to shell out bucks for.

Contact points are important.  Don't go cheap on bike shorts, bike shoes, gloves, or saddles.

Ride long when you have time.  Ride hard when you don't have time.

Figure out nutrition and hydration during your long rides as you go.

Bring these questions to the fitness subforum so you get useful answers and not retards saying "stay off the road"
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Quoted:
Hi guys me and my S/O are looking for some advice,we have decided to get in shape and start riding bikes on the road. We really want to start this spring and go from being moderately active but zero riding experience to riding in the seagull century ride this fall. Anyone have advice to help us get started? Equipment, training routines advice we need help with it all. Thanks guys


Not to be snarky, but ride a lot.

Get the lightest helmer you're willing to shell out bucks for.

Contact points are important.  Don't go cheap on bike shorts, bike shoes, gloves, or saddles.

Ride long when you have time.  Ride hard when you don't have time.

Figure out nutrition and hydration during your long rides as you go.

Bring these questions to the fitness subforum so you get useful answers and not retards saying "stay off the road"


I have completed the Honolulu century 2 times and I think this is the most solid advice in here on all points... If I was prioritizing money it would be bike, shoes, gloves, shorts, helmet.   After buying a couple really expensive helmets I agree they are nice but not a top priority to me, always wear one but I wouldn't break the bank there.  Also find a couple metric centuries as you train up, they are great for practice riding in groups and learning to cope with the hazards of riding with a bunch of people at once.

-Mike
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