Quarterbore says timing gages are needed and "drill shanks " are cheapest? ....could someone direct me in the direction to find these.....i've
searched online but no luck.....thanks

Quarterbore talks about the sizes you need.

Get a set a drill bits, a set of calipers and measure the shank end to verify the size and then your set. One can order drill bit stock, but why? You aren't making drill bits... it's cheaper to just buy a set of inexpensive bits and use the shank end of them.

That's what I did.

None of that is needed.

Just put the DIAS in and let it run. Use shims on lug if you want to slow down or speed up ROF. Many DIAS do not need any adjustment at all.

Thanks guys!

Won't work if the timing is significantly off.  Use drill bits and set it up correctly.  Moving the dias changes when the hammer is released from the full auto sear and can release it too early resulting in nothing happening.

( 07/02 with a Dias that wa shimmed improperly and wouldn't run until timed. )

Huh? Of course it will work. At the end of the day you are still using shims around the lug to get proper timing. You can use the gages to determine how much to shim it, but it is easy to do without them as I have done it many times. QBs instructions (below) are overly complicated for a simple operation IMO.

Besides, OP did not say he was having problems, and to me it appeared he thought he needed to buy that stuff just to get it installed/working. You do not.

I F1'd these back in the day and I got it right with basic tools. I am also an 07/02 and have seen dozens over the years that needed nothing more than shims, and this was a lug issue not a DIAS issue.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/RDIAS_timing_adjustment/22-292635/

Timing a DIAS:

The DIAS must be timed with each change of upper or lower. To check the timing is easy, to adjust the timing is hard. With a M16 or AR15 with M16 parts and the DIAS in place...

1. Remove any magazine and ammo from the gun.

2. Set the selector on the full auto position.

3. Drop the hammer with the trigger (you did check to see the chamber was empty right?)

4. Now you need your timing gages ( The cheapest is drill shanks at the required dimensions. I use three, one early timing gage .12 dia, one correctly timed gage .10 dia, and one late timed gage .08 dia.)

5. Secure the trigger in the fired condition (rearward) with wire. Using the charging handle pull the bolt carrier all the way to the rear but do not let it go, slowly lower the carrier towards the front until you have a 1/2" gap left between the carrier and barrel extension.

6. Insert the early timed gage in between the colt carrier and the barrel extension (not the bolt head) and slowly lower the bolt carrier with the charging handle. If the auto sear releases then your gun is out of time (early) and will most likely give you light primer hits. If not go to step 7.

7. Slightly retract the charging handle and remove the early gage and insert the late gage. Slowly lower the carrier until the carrier rest on the gage that is between the bolt carrier and the barrel extension. The hammer should have dropped, if it did not the gun is out of time (late) and will most likely either not release the hammer or act sluggish and have a slow cyclic rate. If it dropped go to step 8.

8. Pull back on the charging handle and recock the gun while removing the late gage. slowly lower the bolt carrier with the "go" or correctly timed gage until the bolt carrier rest on the gage that is against the barrel extension. The hammer might release or might not.

This same system could be used to check the timing of a M-16 or RR AR-15 using a traditional auto sear as well. The key is to set the timing so the hammer falls with the 0.10 diameter gage but not the early gage. Assuming that the hammer was released on this gage but not the early gage the gun is timed.

Now that you have determined the timing of the gun you must adjust it. the DIAS should NOT be loose in the gun since it can shift and effect your timing. The easiest way to secure it in the gun is to A) drill a hole and tap it in the auto sear body so you
can clamp it to the upper lug and adjust the timing with shims on the front side or 2) You can glue plastic shims to the upper lug with JB weld so the DIAS is timed to each upper by the shims on that lug. Moving the sear forward in the gun makes the timing later (therefore correcting an early timed sear) and rearward makes the timing earlier (correcting a late timed sear).

I bought gauge pins and all kinds of nonsense.. you dont need any of that..while ive had my sear in other peoples guns that dont run well..if intook 5 min and tried it would be 100%.
You just need a small file and some plastic shim...while its nice to glue the shim to the upper... dowsing your gun with CLP will eventually make it fall off.

My RDIAS has a tapped hole for a nylon set screw, i theory thats great.. i dont really feel the need to tighten it against the 2nd Thinnest part of the body.

I personally think the previous owner is a tard for drilling a whole in a transferable, but with how little i care right now. I ahould try it.. or atleast put that much effort in when throwing it in some random host.
I have the setscrews.... they are with the gauge pins i dont use.

Renegadex was right... dropped in and ran perfect....no timing necessary

I just put a feeler gauges, dial calipers, fiskar scissors, and a pack of poly shim stock in the dase that holds my dias.
When you run it in alot of hosts this is probably the way to go.. just cut it with the scissors.
Its probably a lifetime supply of shim

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007UQ74VA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1