opening the end of an SBR hand guard to accommodate a suppressor?

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - opening the end of an SBR hand guard to accommodate a suppressor?

Posted: 4/7/2018 12:11:15 AM EDT

I realize the easy answer is get a longer barrel but I don't much like that idea. Anybody ever gotten a hand guard opened up on the muzzle end to fit a can inside? I don't need much just enough to get it in there and twist it on with a little clearance for heat. I should still have plenty of metal left I'm just not sure how to go about doing it.

Or hell, maybe i just need to buy another can.

Posted: 4/7/2018 12:20:32 AM EDT

[#1]

I've resorted to a shorter handguard and then grew another upper out of the leftover handguard 'seed'.

A belt sander or a chop saw just delays buying a shorter handguard

Posted: 4/7/2018 12:27:09 AM EDT

[#2]

Best bet would be a suppressor compatible handguard, MI makes a good one for that tucked in integral look, buy a shorter handguard, or ad a spacer to your threads to get clearance if it's just a small amount of room needed.

Posted: 4/7/2018 3:14:23 AM EDT

[#3]

I'd rather spend some money to somebody with good machine tools to just take the metal out of the front and open it up a bit wider. It's close it almost fits my Gemtech now and there's plenty of metal left. I'm actually a big fan of the way I have it now, it's probably my favorite AR I've ever played with.

Posted: 4/7/2018 5:11:18 AM EDT

[#4]

Did that 15 years ago on a 9mm Setup. Dremmeled a 64th wider and then used Alumablack to darken. Worked ok but was a pain to do as I had to go several inches in. Used a Raptor can with 3 lug.
Found out most Handguards are not completely round but oval.

Posted: 4/7/2018 7:52:19 AM EDT

[#5]

I had a machinist take a little off one of my rails to fit and then sent it to get cerakoted. Do you have a friend in a shop that can do the work for you?

Posted: 4/10/2018 1:24:39 AM EDT

[#6]

Morgan over at Class 3 Machining can do this for you. He actually just recently posted a photo of a similar job on their Facebook page.

**Edit**
I went back and found the picture I’m talking about...
https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13100897_891996757573292_4596201222378249448_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=322dee49cf5c7d1df0a5a6d68ad0e3ef&oe=5B7098AF

Posted: 4/10/2018 6:07:16 AM EDT

[#7]

Thanks very much.

Posted: 4/10/2018 11:42:00 AM EDT

[#8]

I would make sure you have them open it up enough to allow for barrel whip. or do one of those cuts where the leave just the top rail intact like a swan sleeve this would be ideal as it would help with cooling as I've heard rails can really get warm with a suppressor inside them. looks pretty good also... just a thought

Posted: 4/11/2018 1:28:44 AM EDT

[#9]

sure your barrel is perfectly centered? I have an eye for seeing minute differences in symmetry, more of a curse if you handyman jobs around the house. Backed up by calipers, most barrels in ARs are not perfectly centered unless the front the receiver is squared off.

Posted: 4/13/2018 6:54:11 PM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted:
sure your barrel is perfectly centered? I have an eye for seeing minute differences in symmetry, more of a curse if you handyman jobs around the house. Backed up by calipers, most barrels in ARs are not perfectly centered unless the front the receiver is squared off.

View Quote

Can’t say I understand what your getting at

Posted: 4/14/2018 7:06:59 PM EDT

[#11]

Quote History

Quoted:

Can’t say I understand what your getting at

View Quote

when your barrel is installed in your upper, are you sure the barrel will be perfectly centered inside the handguard. I have done several ARs with longer free float handguards and they were all off just eyeballing them. I used the brownells tool on one of the uppers and it definitely made a difference, here are a couple examples.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/receiver-tools/ar-15-m16-upper-receiver-lapping-tool-prod20220.aspx

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007368790/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-lapping-tool-ar-15

Posted: 4/15/2018 2:55:28 AM EDT

[#12]

yea I got that.... still no idea what it's got to do with the question though.

Posted: 4/15/2018 1:46:11 PM EDT

[#13]

His point is that if it’s asymmetric you may need to take off more metal than you think.

Posted: 4/15/2018 5:53:50 PM EDT

[#14]

Gotcha. Still gotta take metal out though

Posted: 4/19/2018 1:20:05 PM EDT

[#15]

I love that look as well!! I just went with a bigger rail.

Attached File

Posted: 4/21/2018 7:04:21 PM EDT

[#16]

QD can, No.

Direct thread can with cheapo 17.99 ebay hand guard, fuck yeah.

Posted: 4/22/2018 10:51:11 AM EDT

[#17]

How much are you tucking? Also rifle caliber or pistol caliber. It’s going to be extra hot under the handrail especially with full power rifle loads.

Posted: 4/22/2018 4:01:19 PM EDT

[#18]

Quote History

Quoted:
How much are you tucking? Also rifle caliber or pistol caliber. It’s going to be extra hot under the handrail especially with full power rifle loads.

View Quote

If that’s for me, I’ll say I have about 5 inches of the suppressor under the handguard. It’s a 300 black out with pistol length gas system. I’ve ran it pretty hard before but never 100’s of rounds at one time hard. And I haven’t really ran a whole bunch of supers through it like that. It’s sighted in for subs and spends its time like that most. I never really noticed it getting hot even with no gloves on. I know how hot a suppressor gets and I assume if a guy was doing some hard core drills with lots of ammo it could be really hot but I’m not that cool.

Here’s an idea where the gas system is and where the suppressor begins.

Attached File

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - opening the end of an SBR hand guard to accommodate a suppressor?

Armory » Short Barreled Rifles (SBR)

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