I love the look of my walnut A-TM, but I would not be opposed to a synthetic either.  And contrary to the opinion of a few others, I think the Ruger folder is more comfortable and a better mechanism than the other previously made aftermarket folding Mini stocks.

Does anyone have a actual weight of a tactical mini in the stock? It amazes me that samson doesnt even list that and even worse when I called they have no idea.  From the weight of the stock they do list it looks like it may be adding a hugh amount of weight.

My 16" tactical weighs

6 lbs 11 oz in the factory synthetic.
7 lbs 3 oz in the Samson A-TM.


For comparison sake, my FN M4 with 16" barrel weighs 6 lbs 11 oz. with the carry handle.

No magazines in these weights.

I just picked up a Samson stock and a mini to go in it!

Gorgeous!

Nice!

I wonder why Ruger won't pump out some Mini-14 Pistol versions and Samson a "Brace" compatible version of the stock.

Seems like a Tailhook modification on the butt is all that would be needed.

I figure the ghost of Bill Ruger haunts the plant and people are afraid of such controversial ideas at Ruger.

The mini-14 platform is getting stale - needs some innovation - A factor made pistol version seems to require very little effort

While I agree they do need to pump out some "pistol" Minis, I don't know how easy the factory folder would be to rework into a brace.  With how it closes/locks, it doesn't seem like it lends itself to be modified or altered in any way substantial enough to pass muster.

The Newest and thinnest Tailhook brace is as narrow as the Ruger folding butt.

Simply instead of the butt, one could have a hinged short cylinder shape - the same diameter as an AR buffer tube allowing a tailhook to attach.  Add a strong magnet to hold it against the wooden stock.

The black version is finally out.

Sweet.  Thanks for the heads up.

If I wanted a black/blue unit, I think I'd still get the Stainless unit (won't rust) glass bead-blast it (for coating adherence) and paint/coat it with durable paint/coating.

Same thing as with a replacement steel butt plate (replaces later OEM plastic butt plates) for some Ruger rifles.  Get Stainless, fit it to stock, bead-blast, and paint.  Strip and re-paint when (not if) the butt plate gets badly scratched.  Again, no rust.

Yes, more initial effort/prep, but such effort will likely be repaid in the long term.  Do it right the first time, and no need to do it all-over again.

And no rust. YMMV.

ETA: It appears that the black/blue Samson folding stocks are made of Stainless steel, and coated in a dark finish;

From Perfect Union site:

"The "black" version of the A-TM folding stock from Samson is stainless steel.I ordered one the day that I posted my question about when they had started offering them in black, and it arrived yesterday.
I dropped my blued Mini 30 in it and was fondling it, when a small chunk of something hit the floor next to the chair that I was sitting in.
Upon first inspection, it looked like a clump of rusted metal particles which seemed to have dropped out of one of the holes in the actual tube of the buttstock.
I emailed Samson directly and asked if it were possible that the inside of the tube could be rusting.
They responded by email today and told me that all metal components of the black stocks are stainless steel.
Their theory was that the medium that the parts are tumbled in was what I was seeing, not rusted metal particles clumped together.
They assured me that there would be no rust, and knowing the quality of Ruger stainless steel, I'm inclined to believe them."

Just a heads up, the Black Mini 14 folder is available thru RSR, so if your local dealer uses RSR for product, they can get them now and skip the wait from Samson Direct (if there still is one). scored my stock the other day.

NICE SBR!

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Got my folder yesterday. It definitely brings back some awesome 80s memories.

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But I think I still prefer my wood stock (with an inch of pull removed), with the wood hand guard.

The black folder looks even better than I expected.  

Everyone has their preference.  Long ago I bead-blasted a Mini-14 Butler Creek folding stock's stainless steel metal parts and coated them with a durable coating.  Nothing "New Under the Sun"--it's all been done before.  I believe I used Brownell's "Aluma-Hyde 2 " epoxy paint in "Dark Park Grey".  Was the best of alternatives at the time, and still pretty decent, overall, IMHO.

Decent and durable coating, but prior surface prep is the essential key to any finish durability.  Any trace of oil on the painted surfaces, and less-than adequate surface prep, will allow the coatings to quickly deteriorate.

I’m sure this has been solved by now but here is my solution to the front sling mount. Drilled and tapped the gas block side for a screw in stud. Its solid and tight but I may get someone to hit the backside with a tig weld to make sure it never moves. It seems like it is going to work well. I just need to decide if I want to remove the old one and refinish or leave it as is. I have seen the original one in photos done both ways.

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Cool idea...

I waited until:

1) the blued version was available; and
2) someone had them in stock at MSRP, rather than price gouging.

It arrived today and I’m not disappointed. It has been described as “blonde” wood in some reviews so I wondered how well it would match my walnut hand guard.  It’s slightly lighter in color but matches at least as good as the original stock.

The barrel on this early 184 series Mini 14 was shortened to 16.1” by a prior owner.  With the Choate Browning style flash hider it’s still only 28 3/8” long.




I’ve heard comments (most likely from people who don’t have one and or never had an original) that they rattle and wobble when new and get worse over time.  When I first heard that it didn’t square with my recollection of the originals back in the day.

The new Samson stock locks up very solid in both the extended and folded positions. Looking at it makes it clear why that is the case.

While not as massive as the engagement surfaces on my Galil, the Samson stock does have a double taper on the locking section of the stock that should keep the lockup solid.  




To fold it you have to depress the strut slightly to get it to fit over the stud, and then press it in slightly while you close the butt over the strut, locking it on the stud.   In essence that means it’s under slight tension in both axis and can’t rattle.



The butt can be moved about 5 degrees in its extended position, but you have to pull it out against spring pressure to do it.  The spring pressure keeps it pressed in toward the gun, so it isn’t going to move when you shoulder it and it isn’t going to rattle.

I’m curious to see more detail.

The gas block is thin in that area and looks like it might have the screw just above the stock liner.  That’s not a lot of threads to hold it.


So far I am just using the low tech approach.   If I wasn’t using an AccuStrut, I’d drill and tap the side of the web where the strut is attached and install a sling swivel stud, just above the existing stud.  



To get clearance for a sling swivel I’d use the made to the adapter I am using on the rear attachment point.




As it is, I’m tempted to see if the strut was drilled and then tapped in a single operation so that the threads are aligned on each side.  If so I could drill the web, tap it with the strut in place and then use a sling swivel stud to screw all three elements together.

It’s one of the thicker areas in the block where I drilled. It’s solid as a rock but like I said before I think a small tig on the back would make it as bulletproof as it can be. Using the strut attachment point may be a good idea too. If drilled on each side independently I would just re-drill it together and sandwich everything with some new hardware
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Absent a spot of TIG weld, or high-temp silver solder, a simple (2x-3x) staking of the threads inside the gas block ought to do the trick, possibly with some hi-temp RED loc-tite as a backup.  That gas block can get pretty hot.

Strongly suggest you consult with mfr of the Accu-Strut before making any irreversible changes to the rear anchor point of the Accu-Strut.  IIRC, he has spoken about such things before, but don't recall his exact comments.  I believe he is member kkina of Mini forum over at PerfectUnion, so that is an alternate way to contact him.

I put a little red loc-tite on it when I install the stud. I really didn’t think about staking it. I believe if anything the weld is the best way personally. I have busy since I originally posted the mod. I honestly have not touched any of it since. Its just marinating on the work table.

I’m already a bit of the reservation on that.  I used an end mill to mill recesses in the gas block for the set screws to ensure a positive lock up.

I’m probably also not inclined to mess with it just to get a side mounted sling swivel stud.   This adapter from Magpul isn’t as elegant, but it’s inexpensive and it works just fine with either QD swivels or an HK style hook sling.

Personally, I would Never attach a sling to a barrel unless it was completely unavoidable.  Nothing good comes from doing so, especially when taking a tight sling.

I have a FAL which has a barrel-mounted sling attachment point.  Problematic with a tight sling.  POI moves considerably at distance.

Looking into other things for the FAL.

The initial GI M-16s had issues with tight slings, and even the Colt HBAR can have barrel moved by barrel-mounted sling attachment point, and taking a tight sling.

Generally speaking, I would most always mount a sling to an attachment point on the fore end of the stock rather than to the barrel itself.  Use the stock to resist barrel-mounted sling-induced movement of the barrel.

Some may ask:  "What's the big deal about taking a "tight sling".  

Well, taking a "tight" shooting sling, as long as it does not affect your rifle's Point of Impact, might allow you to shoot maybe 1/2 size current bullet group, maybe smaller.

Not for everyone, and not for all circumstances.  

IIRC, I shot a "Rattle-Battle" match organized by TimJ (RIP) with my HBAR Colt AR.  IIRC, all my very rapid-fire shots at 200 yds were within 10" diameter.  I also had a stout Match-compliant "tube" within the handguard that allowed a "tight" sling.  Hard to see, but compliant with recognized Match regulations.

No cheating under very "loose" Match "rules", or even under recognized Match rules.  FWIW, also won similar match with a much-modified Mini-14, much to the astonishment of all concerned.  FWIW, I don't claim to be a great shot.

Again, as I recall, after the match where I used the AR, Wobblin-Goblin said, as we walked up to the targets: "I hate you, raf".

That's the benefit of being able to take a tight sling; maybe both with the AR, and the Mini-14.

@Wobblin-Goblin

I remember a rattle battle or two with you guys.

Well…thanks for mansplaining it to me.  I shot service rifle competition in college and in the USMCR, then for several years after.  I also shot small bore and still do on occasion. In other words, I fully understand the benefits of a tight sling for position shooting.

This rifle just isn’t intended for the type of shooting I’d do with heavy sling pressure.

I also started shooting tactical rifle matches in the early 1990s and shot my last one in 2007.  My preference for a .223 Remington rifle is to keep it light and simple.  This really isn’t that to start with as a metal folding stock makes it compact to store and carry, but adds excessive weight on the wrong end of the gun for tactical competition.

If I want to use a mini 14 with heavy sling pressure to stabilize my position shooting, I’ll use one of my other two Mini 14s with a fixed wood stock.

I apologize if anything I wrote above offended you.  My writing style does that sometimes, unfortunately.

Back to the Mini, some users have reported good results with attaching a rail or a sling stud on the bottom and/or sides of the stock's fore end and using a moderate shooting sling with that rig.  Attaching a sling to the bottom or side of the gas block, which is attached to the barrel, is mechanically identical to attaching the sling mounting point to the barrel.  Attaching the sling mounting point to the stock adds the stock's rigidity to the equation.

I don`t like the ar type grip , they should have stuck with the correct grip >

Are you referring to the material the grip is made from?  Because the current production grips will fit the old stocks, they're the same shape, size, angle, etc.

But bakelite, which the original Ruger grips were made from, is no longer available.  Seems because it's much more fragile than modern plastics, no one makes things from it any longer.


The only real complaint I can find with the stock is the length of pull is long by today's standards.  But, if it was shorter there would be two problems.  

1)  It wouldn't be the original stock.
2)  The stud in the stock that latches the folder closed would have to be relocated towards the rear, which would interfere with the magazine well.

Where did you get the silver 30 round magazines

those look more like 40rd, National Magazine?

Those look great. Would love to find a wood hand guard for my 582 but they are nowhere. I wonder if Accuracy Systems will continue manufacture.

P1000025ps