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[#1]
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[#2]
Originally Posted By HaveBlue83: Samson A-TM stock "issues" explained, round 2 View Quote Excellent..!! |
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[#3]
Quoted: Obviously a best fit is desirable, but I think your error is assuming that people buy this stock, or Mini-14s in general as "gear." That ship sailed along time ago and it's not coming back. These are fun guns or retro collector items at this point. People spending this kind of disposable income on stuff like retro stocks have lots of alternate options of serious use rifles. My personal interest in the Samson is the (still pending) 10/22 version. Just to build a mostly for fun SBR plinker. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Sure, the repro of the original Ruger folder has an attraction/cool factor for some. I get it. And I wish the Samson people all success. That said, I long ago gave up the childish desire to impress people (including myself, which was harder) with "cool" gear. Doing so is/was a never-ending chase after the un-attainable, and a pointless goal. I have become far more concerned with gear that is fully functional as my (possibly flawed) experiences inform me. I have become far less concerned with gear that somehow impresses others with no concomitant performance increase. My dislike of the Ruger folder is based on a number of verifiable points, as attested-to by other posters familiar with the OEM folders. I've tried out a number of them; some virtually brand-new, and others clapped-out. The degeneration is easy to see, and predictable. Perhaps the Samson item will be so-made as to address the flaws in the original item. I certainly hope the wooden stock is cut so as to be tighter-fitting than the OEM Ruger wooden stock. Their choosing a Walnut stock vice the OEM Birch stock is not encouraging. Birch wood is about 10% denser than walnut, and less likely to splitting. I would have preferred a tight-fitting syn stock; Perhaps that will be available later. Nevertheless, the basic design of the Ruger folder is overly complicated, with too many joints, all of which will wear during use, and such wear will induce noise (rattle) and inaccuracy. None of which are desirable. There were many folding stocks for the Mini, in the past. Most of which are very scarce nowadays. Probably for very good reason; Many of them were very flawed designs. Most of them were junk, period. At this point, if one wants a side folder Mini stock, and what with the demise of the Butler Creek version, perhaps the Choate side-folder is, IMHO, the optimal choice. Very much a second-best to the BC version, but at least it is still offered, to Choate's credit. I am sorry to have ruffled some feathers, but I think it possibly useful to others to speak my mind, having some experience in these things, over the decades. My fear is that such modern folders will provide yet another generation of users to complain about their Mini's "inaccuracy", once the folders become worn. How you spend your money is your business. That said, I think it perhaps useful for some people, perhaps experienced people, to state their experiences. As for me, sliding the Mini into a tight-fitting syn stock is certainly a positive advancement. YMMV. Obviously a best fit is desirable, but I think your error is assuming that people buy this stock, or Mini-14s in general as "gear." That ship sailed along time ago and it's not coming back. These are fun guns or retro collector items at this point. People spending this kind of disposable income on stuff like retro stocks have lots of alternate options of serious use rifles. My personal interest in the Samson is the (still pending) 10/22 version. Just to build a mostly for fun SBR plinker. The fundamental issue is whether a particular folding stock is without built-in wobble (as is the OEM Ruger folder), or without wobble. The Wobble issue directly relates to accuracy issues, although there is much more to be said about that. Why would anyone want to degrade the accuracy of their rifle? Whether or not one buys their Mini-14 as "gear", it serves no useful purpose to modify the rifle in a way to degrade accuracy. Let's put it another way. Anyone can put their Mini into a tight-fitting syn stock for about $100, tops, perhaps a good deal less. Doing so, all other things being equal, is almost guaranteed to increase accuracy. It's my fear that these folding stocks, no matter how they are made to mimic the older, OEM Ruger folders will perpetuate the mistaken belief that Minis are inherently inaccurate. By all means buy one if the need overcomes you. If you want a decent, accurate folder, try to buy a Butler Creek folder, if you can find one, since they have apparently gone out of production, or buy a Choate folder. At least you will get a tight-fitting synthetic stock, and no wobble when the stock is deployed. I enjoy hitting the things at which I aim. The BC folder, or the Choate folder are better, proven means to do so. People, I've tried out many Ruger folding stocks in the past. A very flawed design, IMHO. It is ironic that the BC folder is apparently out of production, while inferior stocks are being offered, and sold for far more $$ than the BC. No offense, just stating my experience. You all have the freedon to spend your money as you see fit. YMMV |
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[#4]
Listen, sir...can i call ya sir?
The mini-14 is the most INACCURATE carbine i ever bought. Worse than my AKs. Seriously terrible. 3moa AT BEST at 100yds.in a synthetic or folder stock. LUCKILY thats why i never bought one, so when i did, it was only for the A team stock. Thats ITTTTTT. that is the ONLY REASON i bought it. I KNEW at 100yds it was a shit show. Ive fired others, fixed and folder. I Knew. The thin barrel whips violently, and the huge block of steel under it battering the frame and then slamming back into the gas block is some seriousl craptastic 80s art. I put $650 into a mini and $280 into a stock and some mags and a tec sight to have a grand worth of of amazing 80s A-team goodness. There is no way in HELL id grab this has a GO TO carbine. An AR runs circles around this all dang day. You said "accuracy" and "mini-14" in the same sentance....and you just played yourself. The mini is inheirently IN accurate, suffers from.fliers from heat and recoil, and only keeps high reliablity and fun factor as assets. They area hooot at 50yds on plates, poppers, steel and rocks. Very few people can work them into shape. #offrant |
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[#5]
I must have inadvertently bumped the buttplate down thats why the stock flew open.
For those who have refinished does the poly have to be stripped off? Would just sanding down with 000 SW work? |
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[#6]
Quoted: Listen, sir...can i call ya sir? The mini-14 is the most INACCURATE carbine i ever bought. Worse than my AKs. Seriously terrible. 3moa AT BEST at 100yds.in a synthetic or folder stock. LUCKILY thats why i never bought one, so when i did, it was only for the A team stock. Thats ITTTTTT. that is the ONLY REASON i bought it. I KNEW at 100yds it was a shit show. Ive fired others, fixed and folder. I Knew. The thin barrel whips violently, and the huge block of steel under it battering the frame and then slamming back into the gas block is some seriousl craptastic 80s art. I put $650 into a mini and $280 into a stock and some mags and a tec sight to have a grand worth of of amazing 80s A-team goodness. There is no way in HELL id grab this has a GO TO carbine. An AR runs circles around this all dang day. You said "accuracy" and "mini-14" in the same sentance....and you just played yourself. The mini is inheirently IN accurate, suffers from.fliers from heat and recoil, and only keeps high reliablity and fun factor as assets. They area hooot at 50yds on plates, poppers, steel and rocks. Very few people can work them into shape. #offrant View Quote You can call me anything you like, except late to chow time, lol. It's OK, been called a jackass--and worse-- over the years, and no problem. You are operating under the very common perception that all Minis are inherently inaccurate. This is a common mistake, and one which I suggest you might re-consider. Many other people, besides myself, have refuted this "legend". I have won money against shorty AR users using my pencil-barrel Mini against them. I'm tired of telling the tale, at this point. Long story short, they were long on gear, and short on shooting for money. My much-modified OEM pencil-barrel Mini is a reliable 2 MOA shooter, with decent ammo. Given the latest upgrades, might be well within 2 MOA. Time will tell. Kinda difficult to test these days. But I look forward to meeting folks on the range that I can use my Mini to shoot against. Won't be the first fools to lose money. I might have to dismount the Accu-strut, since it is a giveaway, but we'll see. I might have to throw off a few shots to entice the sucker. Since the barreled action is bedded into the syn stock, and Cryo-treated, maybe there will be some sucker to fall for it. Won't be the first sucker, possibly not the last. Might be fun to find out. Thanks for the suggestion. |
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[#8]
That looks great. I have my 2x4 all apart, get some citristrip tomorrow.
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[#9]
Originally Posted By BRN-180: Clear coat must be stripped from the pores so stain and oil can drink in. stripper is far easier than sanding or 0000. it is not coming off with just steel wool. mine came out great. if i had to do it over again i would use RLO instead of the BLO i used. RLO is easier to use and more forgiving. also RLO will not totally seal the pores so years later more RLO can be applied and drink in whereas BLO can seal the pores and additional coats tend to drink in less. https://imgur.com/5aBDXJT.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By BRN-180: Originally Posted By greyeyezz: I must have inadvertently bumped the buttplate down thats why the stock flew open. For those who have refinished does the poly have to be stripped off? Would just sanding down with 000 SW work? Clear coat must be stripped from the pores so stain and oil can drink in. stripper is far easier than sanding or 0000. it is not coming off with just steel wool. mine came out great. if i had to do it over again i would use RLO instead of the BLO i used. RLO is easier to use and more forgiving. also RLO will not totally seal the pores so years later more RLO can be applied and drink in whereas BLO can seal the pores and additional coats tend to drink in less. https://imgur.com/5aBDXJT.jpg Absolutely stunning..!! |
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[#10]
Originally Posted By FightingHellfish: Obviously a best fit is desirable, but I think your error is assuming that people buy this stock, or Mini-14s in general as “gear.” That ship sailed along time ago and it’s not coming back. These are fun guns or retro collector items at this point. People spending this kind of disposable income on stuff like retro stocks have lots of alternate options of serious use rifles. My personal interest in the Samson is the (still pending) 10/22 version. Just to build a mostly for fun SBR plinker. View Quote I like the idea of a 10/22 SBR with a side folder - Tell us more about your plans - Anything retro-ish in mind for iron sights? or just using a short threaded barrel |
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[#11]
Originally Posted By raf: The fundamental issue is whether a particular folding stock is without built-in wobble (as is the OEM Ruger folder), or without wobble. The Wobble issue directly relates to accuracy issues, although there is much more to be said about that. Why would anyone want to degrade the accuracy of their rifle? Whether or not one buys their Mini-14 as "gear", it serves no useful purpose to modify the rifle in a way to degrade accuracy. Let's put it another way. Anyone can put their Mini into a tight-fitting syn stock for about $100, tops, perhaps a good deal less. Doing so, all other things being equal, is almost guaranteed to increase accuracy. It's my fear that these folding stocks, no matter how they are made to mimic the older, OEM Ruger folders will perpetuate the mistaken belief that Minis are inherently inaccurate. By all means buy one if the need overcomes you. If you want a decent, accurate folder, try to buy a Butler Creek folder, if you can find one, since they have apparently gone out of production, or buy a Choate folder. At least you will get a tight-fitting synthetic stock, and no wobble when the stock is deployed. I enjoy hitting the things at which I aim. The BC folder, or the Choate folder are better, proven means to do so. People, I've tried out many Ruger folding stocks in the past. A very flawed design, IMHO. It is ironic that the BC folder is apparently out of production, while inferior stocks are being offered, and sold for far more $$ than the BC. No offense, just stating my experience. You all have the freedon to spend your money as you see fit. YMMV View Quote So is all this "wobble" associated to the fact (what I've read) that this stock is built to tolerances better suited to fit the Mini-30 then the 14? |
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[#12]
Quoted: So is all this "wobble" associated to the fact (what I've read) that this stock is built to tolerances better suited to fit the Mini-30 then the 14? View Quote ETA: after doing some research, the wooden and synthetic stocks for the Mini-14 and the Mini-30 rifles have different parts numbers. This indicates, but does not conclusively prove, that they are different between the mini-14 and the Mini-30. I admit that I have never tried to swap stocks between a Mini-14 and a Mini-30. Allow me to preface my remarks by saying I have not yet examined a Samson stock. However, the advert from Ruger makes it clear that Samson has had a great deal of input from Ruger in their manufacture. That said, I am basing my remarks about the OEM Ruger stocks, and expect that the Samson stocks will be very similar. What I refer to as "Wobble" is due to the construction of, and materials used in, the metal portion of the stock, I.E, the folding part. As it is, the joints of the metal stock are prone to wear, over time, and are not easily "tightened-up". Of course, some sort of different joints, possibly including bearings, or user-adjustable features, were not present in the original design, and re-engineering the stock for the inclusion of such would have caused the price to rise significantly. This is a separate issue from the fit of the wooden stock with respect to the barreled action. That well-known defect could easily be remedied when re-making the stocks, and I certainly hope it has been addressed. Ruger has the correct internal dimensions (at least for their Mini Syn stocks), and modern stock-making equipment is capable of turning out a correctly-fitting wooden stock, if the right dimensions/cutting procedures are followed. Let's hope Samson has opted to not follow Ruger's OEM wooden stock inletting exactly, but has "tightened" things up a bit. The old, ill-fitting wooden Mini stock issue is long-known, and the fix is simple enough. The substitution of Walnut for the OEM Birch, to my mind, is a step backwards, due to Birch being about 10% denser, and less prone to cracking. All this is aside from looks, of course. I do hope Samson turns out a good product, and that the buyers of such are entirely happy with it. My pointing out well-known pitfalls of the OEM design should not be interpreted as ill-will toward Samson, or their products. |
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[#13]
Originally Posted By cherenkov: I like the idea of a 10/22 SBR with a side folder - Tell us more about your plans - Anything retro-ish in mind for iron sights? or just using a short threaded barrel View Quote Techsights or the Nodak version. Flashhider (with Techsight protected-ears military style front sight) on the front just for the cool/fun factor. BX-25 magazines. Maybe an old school canvass sling. Find some kind of scabbard or jump case to put it in. My only concern (looking at Samson's pic) is that the cheekweld might actually be best suited for a red dot and too high to easily use with irons. |
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[#14]
Quoted: Techsights or the Nodak version. Flashhider (with Techsight protected-ears military style front sight) on the front just for the cool/fun factor. BX-25 magazines. Maybe an old school canvass sling. Find some kind of scabbard or jump case to put it in. My only concern (looking at Samson's pic) is that the cheekweld might actually be best suited for a red dot and too high to easily use with irons. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I like the idea of a 10/22 SBR with a side folder - Tell us more about your plans - Anything retro-ish in mind for iron sights? or just using a short threaded barrel Techsights or the Nodak version. Flashhider (with Techsight protected-ears military style front sight) on the front just for the cool/fun factor. BX-25 magazines. Maybe an old school canvass sling. Find some kind of scabbard or jump case to put it in. My only concern (looking at Samson's pic) is that the cheekweld might actually be best suited for a red dot and too high to easily use with irons. Sounds like my SS 10-22, but mine has an SS BC folder, and a scout rail, with suitable optic. |
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[#15]
Originally Posted By FightingHellfish: Techsights or the Nodak version. Flashhider (with Techsight protected-ears military style front sight) on the front just for the cool/fun factor. BX-25 magazines. Maybe an old school canvass sling. Find some kind of scabbard or jump case to put it in. My only concern (looking at Samson's pic) is that the cheekweld might actually be best suited for a red dot and too high to easily use with irons. View Quote Based on the pictures from Samson I think the comb height will be just fine with our sights. They're pretty tall. |
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[#16]
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[#17]
I got my screws today! Thx!
Looks like the width is .075" and the weird overcuts are .100" so tomorrow ill grind the slots out to .100" so the slots are smooth. I dont think i t feel like laser welding the slots smaller....but i may try. |
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[#18]
Didn't come out as rich as I wanted but it's better. Strip and BLO only. Can you darken a BLO finish?
P1000641 |
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[#19]
Originally Posted By greyeyezz: Didn't come out as rich as I wanted but it's better. Strip and BLO only. Can you darken a BLO finish? https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49886851426_a443fbe3dd_h.jpgP1000641 View Quote If the BLO fully dries any stain will not go in. You may still be able to rub in hard, some stain. Should have stained first of course. Try tinting more BLO with stain then apply that BLO? I see some grain that would have looked nice if you stained first. |
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[#20]
Originally Posted By BRN-180: If the BLO fully dries any stain will not go in. You may still be able to rub in hard, some stain. Should have stained first of course. Try tinting more BLO with stain then apply that BLO? I see some grain that would have looked nice if you stained first. View Quote BLO fully dry?? It can take weeks+ for BLO to fully dry. I have worked with raw walnut and BLO works great if you have the patience and time to do it. Re-coats should be days apart and BLO will darken over time but once again its a process. |
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[#21]
Originally Posted By Stallion1: BLO fully dry?? It can take weeks+ for BLO to fully dry. I have worked with raw walnut and BLO works great if you have the patience and time to do it. Re-coats should be days apart and BLO will darken over time but once again its a process. View Quote i have found no issue with applying the second and third coat of blo after 24-48 hours but yes noticeable cure is 3-5 days. total cure about a week+. RLO dries even slower. extra coats only take 24 hours or so. it is not dry but takes additional oil well. it does not get tacky and you can work in extra coats sooner. RLO and BLO will get darker but it will take many YEARS to happen. also i am very pleased with the Birchwood Casey walnut stain. nice product. |
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[#23]
Originally Posted By myitinaw: @BRN-180 Sure thing, will do. I should have them Tuesday. If they're acceptable, shoot me an IM with your address and I'll send you a set. Gratis The same goes for any of you guys that need them. View Quote I received them yesterday, perfect......Thanks again, Rick |
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[#24]
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[#25]
Does anyone know how long the backlog is? Ordered in early March.
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[#27]
Quoted: Another customer. Owner stated he loves the color. More like lack of color. Love is my love for his 4 inch barrel extension. https://scontent-msp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/s960x960/96381140_2674748232756462_7412440883708035072_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_sid=de0e5b&_nc_oc=AQmvo_cqqbnWzWA92d7iXbiTZ8-9kNNYVgPfBcpHVcbTXOjwclbP98Vz5eM7Vi0ONqmH9Q-_ao9YybhAdV0a9_z6&_nc_ht=scontent-msp1-1.xx&_nc_tp=7&oh=41538a758a6356085ddbb2830a4af96d&oe=5EE21AC7 View Quote That "Barrel Extension" is a Choate (ETA: John Masen/Federal Ordnance) "M-14-style" Flash suppressor. It is doubly evil, because not only does it suppress flash, but also has the dreaded bayonet lug. It should accept an M-16 bayonet. The Accu-Strut prohibits attachment of a bayonet lug attachment point on my pencil barrel, so I used the Choate Mini-14 flash hider, which does the same flash suppression, but is shorter. Both have the same, much-improved front sight. The M-14-style (with bayo lug) is no longer produced. There being some who find it desirable, they will pay a premium for it. |
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[#28]
Originally Posted By raf: That "Barrel Extension" is a Choate "M-14-style" Flash suppressor. It is doubly evil, because not only does it suppress flash, but also has the dreaded bayonet lug. It should accept an M-16 bayonet. The Accu-Strut prohibits attachment of a bayonet lug attachment point on my pencil barrel, so I used the Choate Mini-14 flash hider, which does the same flash suppression, but is shorter. Both have the same, much-improved front sight. The M-14-style (with bayo lug) is no longer produced. There being some who find it desirable, they will pay a premium for it. View Quote hopefully you know i was being sarcastic about liking that muzzle attachment. |
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[#29]
Quoted: hopefully you know i was being sarcastic about liking that muzzle attachment. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: That "Barrel Extension" is a Choate "M-14-style" Flash suppressor. It is doubly evil, because not only does it suppress flash, but also has the dreaded bayonet lug. It should accept an M-16 bayonet. The Accu-Strut prohibits attachment of a bayonet lug attachment point on my pencil barrel, so I used the Choate Mini-14 flash hider, which does the same flash suppression, but is shorter. Both have the same, much-improved front sight. The M-14-style (with bayo lug) is no longer produced. There being some who find it desirable, they will pay a premium for it. hopefully you know i was being sarcastic about liking that muzzle attachment. Sarcasm I hard to convey on the internet. Glad to hear my suspicions were correct. |
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[#30]
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[#31]
Originally Posted By HaveBlue83: Master-Carr screws fixed. Gotta shorten the smaller one 2 threads. https://i.ibb.co/27grMVG/IMG-20200515-154727856.jpg https://i.ibb.co/9NstSNR/IMG-20200515-225755721.jpg https://i.ibb.co/NyPRct5/IMG-20200515-224800802.jpg View Quote Perfectionist! |
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[#32]
I might have missed something. Why are these aftermarket screws needed?
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[#33]
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[#34]
Quoted: The stock comes with two non-traditional hex head screws, so to make it look more correct, these match the two flatheads that hold the rest of it together. View Quote So, the new stock comes with non-traditional screws? Who cares, really? It's a repro stock, and is what it is. It's funny reading about people trying to make their new stocks more like the older stocks. As I've said, the older folder stocks has plenty of issues. Pay no attention to me, I'm a well-known jackass. |
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[#35]
Unfourtunately im one of those "clone guys", and after doing a Mk12 with full deploymemt kit, sometimes the little details are the worst ones that keep you awake at night. Lol.
I just did this to finish it off. Cost me $0 as the member in here offered to send me a set, which was why i love ARFCOM sometimes! And it allpwed me to do some grinding for myself and add another custom piece to the build. |
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[#36]
Originally Posted By raf: So, the new stock comes with non-traditional screws? View Quote To be fair, the screws in the current stock also don't have as large a head, so you can see the washer thingee behind it. Which is unsightly to a small degree and is a minor thing to update in either case. |
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[#37]
Quoted: To be fair, the screws in the current stock also don't have as large a head, so you can see the washer thingee behind it. Which is unsightly to a small degree and is a minor thing to update in either case. View Quote Perhaps a fair-minded person could have interpreted some of my previous comments in this thread as being caused by my having negative opinions concerning this new repro Samson stock. That would be understandable, but also mistaken. I wish the buyers and the mfr all possible success. As for changing-out the screws, I've done some things like that myself, so I have no reason to criticize another person for doing so. I would not change the screws on a genuine collector's item. However, in this instance, I would have used Phillips head screws, instead of the more "appropriate" slot-headed screws. The reason for this is that one's screwdriver is far less likely to slip out of a Phillips-headed screw, and so mar the wood. Usually easy to replace a buggered screw, but a little more difficult to fix the wood. I suggest using Stainless Steel Phillips head screws, using Loc-tite, and painting the heads of the screws black, if necessary. So, all the above said, I suggest replacing the provided, slot-head screws with the appropriate Phillips head screws. If selling-off the item, include the OEM screws, and explain to the purchaser why they were changed. Since the wood will likely not be damaged around the inletted screw holes, they will probably thank you for your style of screwing. YMMV. |
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[#38]
Originally Posted By raf: Perhaps a fair-minded person could have interpreted some of my previous comments in this thread as being caused by my having negative opinions concerning this new repro Samson stock. That would be understandable, but also mistaken. I wish the buyers and the mfr all possible success. As for changing-out the screws, I've done some things like that myself, so I have no reason to criticize another person for doing so. I would not change the screws on a genuine collector's item. However, in this instance, I would have used Phillips head screws, instead of the more "appropriate" slot-headed screws. The reason for this is that one's screwdriver is far less likely to slip out of a Phillips-headed screw, and so mar the wood. Usually easy to replace a buggered screw, but a little more difficult to fix the wood. I suggest using Stainless Steel Phillips head screws, using Loc-tite, and painting the heads of the screws black, if necessary. So, all the above said, I suggest replacing the provided, slot-head screws with the appropriate Phillips head screws. If selling-off the item, include the OEM screws, and explain to the purchaser why they were changed. Since the wood will likely not be damaged around the inletted screw holes, they will probably thank you for your style of screwing. YMMV. View Quote It comes from the factory with hex-head screws. Some guys replace the hex heads with slotted screws to match the original stock hardware. Replacing hex head screws with phillips head for your described reason would be ridiculous. |
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[#39]
Quoted: It comes from the factory with hex-head screws. Some guys replace the hex heads with slotted screws to match the original stock hardware. Replacing hex head screws with phillips head for your described reason would be ridiculous. View Quote I am sure you are right, and replacing the OEM-supplied screws with slotted-head screws, as some have done, is an improvement. Notice that the supplied hex-head screws would also serve to prevent damage to the wooden stock, much like Phillips head screws. Please forgive my previous, ill-informed comments. |
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[#40]
Originally Posted By raf: I am sure you are right, and replacing the OEM-supplied screws with slotted-head screws, as some have done, is an improvement. Notice that the supplied hex-head screws would also serve to prevent damage to the wooden stock, much like Phillips head screws. Please forgive my previous, ill-informed comments. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By raf: Originally Posted By FightingHellfish: It comes from the factory with hex-head screws. Some guys replace the hex heads with slotted screws to match the original stock hardware. Replacing hex head screws with phillips head for your described reason would be ridiculous. I am sure you are right, and replacing the OEM-supplied screws with slotted-head screws, as some have done, is an improvement. Notice that the supplied hex-head screws would also serve to prevent damage to the wooden stock, much like Phillips head screws. Please forgive my previous, ill-informed comments. It's ok, we are getting used to it. |
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[#41]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: It comes from the factory with hex-head screws. Some guys replace the hex heads with slotted screws to match the original stock hardware. Replacing hex head screws with phillips head for your described reason would be ridiculous. I am sure you are right, and replacing the OEM-supplied screws with slotted-head screws, as some have done, is an improvement. Notice that the supplied hex-head screws would also serve to prevent damage to the wooden stock, much like Phillips head screws. Please forgive my previous, ill-informed comments. It's ok, we are getting used to it. It's quite all right. I have learned nothing in the last 50 years, so ignoring me costs you nothing. Simple equation, given that. |
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[#42]
How are you guys modifying the rear sight on the newer guns (580 series) to resemble the older style receivers? Also, is there a good way to make the barrel thinner too? I'm just using sand paper to thin mine out right now, but it will get there. A benefit of using sand paper on the barrel is that it converts the blued barrel to stainless so it will match the stock. I just need to figure out a way to make the rear sight look more original. Once I'm done with that, I'll address the screw slots.
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[#43]
Quoted: How are you guys modifying the rear sight on the newer guns (580 series) to resemble the older style receivers? Also, is there a good way to make the barrel thinner too? I'm just using sand paper to thin mine out right now, but it will get there. A benefit of using sand paper on the barrel is that it converts the blued barrel to stainless so it will match the stock. I just need to figure out a way to make the rear sight look more original. Once I'm done with that, I'll address the screw slots. View Quote @EagleArmsHBAR, I hope you were joking about that, because otherwise you're damaging your guns finish, if not potentially it's heat treatment and performance. |
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[#44]
Quoted: Sanding off a blued finish means your barrel is "in the white"/unfinished carbon steel, not stainless. You're not "converting" anything, you're removing the metal's protective coating that protects against rust. @EagleArmsHBAR, I hope you were joking about that, because otherwise you're damaging your guns finish, if not potentially it's heat treatment and performance. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: How are you guys modifying the rear sight on the newer guns (580 series) to resemble the older style receivers? Also, is there a good way to make the barrel thinner too? I'm just using sand paper to thin mine out right now, but it will get there. A benefit of using sand paper on the barrel is that it converts the blued barrel to stainless so it will match the stock. I just need to figure out a way to make the rear sight look more original. Once I'm done with that, I'll address the screw slots. @EagleArmsHBAR, I hope you were joking about that, because otherwise you're damaging your guns finish, if not potentially it's heat treatment and performance. As for rear sights on the Mini, there have been different OEM styles. I suggest looking at the products Tech Sights offer, and going from there. I had done some mods to my Mini's rear sights long before Tech sights was in existence. See below. If one wants to have rear sights as close to old-style Mini-14 rear sights, but improved, that can be done, and doing so will involve maybe $30 bucks and some time and effort. Be advised that older, OEM Mini-14 rear sights (NOT Ranch Rifle rear sights), have an adjustment increment of 1.5 MOA. Having the proper sight adjustment tool will be simpler to use than a bullet tip, which is also a possibility. Get the proper tool, and save the finish on your rear sights. One trick, which I developed independently, is to obtain both an elevation and windage slotted screw from Ruger. Use a Dremel tool and cutting wheel to cut into the head of the adjustment screws creating intermediate slots, thus doubling the number of slots, and giving .75 MOA adjustment increments. You will need to verify all the new slots capture the pin that locks the slotted screws in place. Another trick is to buy a spare rear aperture, drill-out the rear OEM aperture, and tap it to accept commonly available rear sight screw-in apertures. (Lyman/Williams/Etc.) Alone, the modified rear sight will be a nearly perfect tactical sight, and the replaceable apertures allow more precision for range shooting. Most interesting is that nobody has asked about the "heater hose" mod. I believe this mod to be extremely useful, but most folks know nothing about it. Submitted for your consideration. |
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[#45]
Samson continues to REFUSE to allow any negative review to be posted to their web site.
Large time span between review 1 and review 3, indicating they read them and shitcan every one that has any negative content. I love my A-TM after I refinished, but never trust a company that does this practice of literally lying to their customers by refusing to post reviews. 5 stars now and if I had to guess that if they posted them all (unless they were profound or out of line) it would be 2 stars or less, total rating. If Amazon did this practice the fed gov would screw them. A little company doing it and of course no one cares. It is actually against the law for a company to post fake reviews. Although they are not posting individual fake reviews they are refusing to post any negative ones to increase their overall star rating. I would guess the FTC would find this practice also illegal. |
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[#46]
Quoted: Samson continues to REFUSE to allow any negative review to be posted to their web site. Large time span between review 1 and review 3, indicating they read them and shitcan every one that has any negative content. I love my A-TM after I refinished, but never trust a company that does this practice of literally lying to their customers by refusing to post reviews. 5 stars now and if I had to guess that if they posted them all (unless they were profound or out of line) it would be 2 stars or less, total rating. If Amazon did this practice the fed gov would screw them. A little company doing it and of course no one cares. View Quote That's disturbing. I'm sorry to hear of this. Hope this report is a mistake, and no offense to BRN-180. For the record, I have not voiced any comments about the new Samson stock anywhere else other than on this Site. No e-mails, no IMs, no nothing other than what I have posted here. Period. |
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[#47]
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[#48]
Quoted: Actually that is a John Mason or Federal Ordnance. The Choate never had a bayonet lug on it. This is a Choate M14 style... https://www.gunsamerica.com/userimages/5511/927696193/wm_4619273.jpg View Quote You are exactly right; I stand corrected. |
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[#49]
Quoted: It comes from the factory with hex-head screws. Some guys replace the hex heads with slotted screws to match the original stock hardware. Replacing hex head screws with phillips head for your described reason would be ridiculous. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Perhaps a fair-minded person could have interpreted some of my previous comments in this thread as being caused by my having negative opinions concerning this new repro Samson stock. That would be understandable, but also mistaken. I wish the buyers and the mfr all possible success. As for changing-out the screws, I've done some things like that myself, so I have no reason to criticize another person for doing so. I would not change the screws on a genuine collector's item. However, in this instance, I would have used Phillips head screws, instead of the more "appropriate" slot-headed screws. The reason for this is that one's screwdriver is far less likely to slip out of a Phillips-headed screw, and so mar the wood. Usually easy to replace a buggered screw, but a little more difficult to fix the wood. I suggest using Stainless Steel Phillips head screws, using Loc-tite, and painting the heads of the screws black, if necessary. So, all the above said, I suggest replacing the provided, slot-head screws with the appropriate Phillips head screws. If selling-off the item, include the OEM screws, and explain to the purchaser why they were changed. Since the wood will likely not be damaged around the inletted screw holes, they will probably thank you for your style of screwing. YMMV. It comes from the factory with hex-head screws. Some guys replace the hex heads with slotted screws to match the original stock hardware. Replacing hex head screws with phillips head for your described reason would be ridiculous. Re-visiting this thread, and reading your comment anew, I concur. The factory-supplied hex head screws should capture the turning device well, and so prevent marring of the wood which is all-to-easily done by a slotted head screw and matching type screwdriver. My suggestion for Phillips-headed screws was based on their being less likely to cause harm to the wooden stock than the slotted screws some mentioned in this thread. I think I would install a Stainless Steel washer below any stock screw, of widest possible OD, since that works against the fastener head marring the wood. In most instances, a wider washer reduces the tendency of the wooden substrate to compress, but this is a reduction, and not a prevention. Some savvy types might elect to use a Forstner bit to widen the OEM screw hole, in order to accept a wider OD washer. Practice on scrap walnut first, and best to use a drill-press. I regret having misunderstood your previous post. My fault. |
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[#50]
May I ask those people who have bought these Samson stocks to perform some simple tests?
For instance, completely remove the trigger group, and measure the side-to-side wiggle of the barreled action, measured at the rearmost point of the metal of the barreled action? This would be informative, and possibly lead to helpful advice. |
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