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Posted: 9/6/2018 4:28:36 PM EDT
Im about to install a composite TL30x6 safe that weighs 4800LBS
I don't think I will be able to bolt it to the concrete but the last guy that installed my TL vault said if you put PL premium or construction adhesive under the safe you basically cant move it. He was a bank vault installer/mover and used this technique before What say ye? I was thinking it can hurt but If I ever had to move it I dont know if you could |
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It would be extremely effective, given the surface area you’d be working with. Good luck ever moving it, though. I’m assuming the floor will be bare concrete with nothing on it?
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Tension slab?
I would trust construction grade epoxy much more than the adhesives you mentioned. If you need it moved, a shorer will be able to get it loose. |
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The only issue is a 4800 LB safe would have a lot of lever to pull that bond at the base if it got moving even just a little. In a corner..bond all 3 surfaces.
Of course on the other hand..how accessible is the safe ? @ 4800 it would require some fairly sharp people with a well thought out plan to “take it away” if stairs or any real vertical movement is needed. It would be easier to pop the door where it sits in most cases. |
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umm ya over 2 tons, inside a house, probably doesnt need to be attatched to anything, unless you figure someone will take the time to rob your house with a bulldozer, or unless they are 5,000 year old egyptians
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The challenge with the heavy safes is people tend to place them in the garage. Personally I'd rather have a 1600 Lb safe bolted in a back room of the basement than a TL in the garage where somebody could use a vehicle to remove it.
If you figure out a way to conceal it away from the vehicles, I don't think there is any value in the extra 200 lbs or so of resistance an adhesive would offer. |
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It’s heavy enough you don’t need adhesive. Besides if you ever move your gonna have a hell of a time moving it. Or leaving it as a gift for the next owner.
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from what I've found with a minimal poly glue will result in 450,000 Psi shear, and with a 8.5 vector for the size will be 50K plus "tension" in the Y axis
do any of you do math or is it all out your ass? |
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Quoted:
The challenge with the heavy safes is people tend to place them in the garage. Personally I'd rather have a 1600 Lb safe bolted in a back room of the basement than a TL in the garage where somebody could use a vehicle to remove it. If you figure out a way to conceal it away from the vehicles, I don't think there is any value in the extra 200 lbs or so of resistance an adhesive would offer. View Quote |
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Where are you going won't the safe? Why can't you bolt it down?
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Keep in mind, if you ever move it again, you'll have to break all the adhesive you used. You'd basically have to break you own safe out. Bolts are much easier to remove in the end.
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I have to ask, do you honestly have $750,000 worth of guns/cash/gold in your safe?
Because that's what insurance will cover for a TL30x6. Considering UL lists you do not need to bolt down a TL safe that weighs over 750 pounds for it to inhibit it's rating, you're probably safe not going that extra step. I could also possibly understand if you had a standard TL15, or TL30, where tipping the safe to get to a "weaker" (relatively speaking) side, might make sense, but an x6? Sounds like way more squeeze for the juice you'll get. |
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Quoted:
Keep in mind, if you ever move it again, you'll have to break all the adhesive you used. You'd basically have to break you own safe out. Bolts are much easier to remove in the end. View Quote |
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Quoted: what insurance will cover that? I bet you have to have a alarm and monitoring as well View Quote If you're spending the time and money on a TL30x6, why would you opt out of having an alarm, monitoring, and video? Layers make a good security blanket. The reality is, unless you have hundreds of thousands of dollars in that safe, and you advertise it, and you happen to have professional thieves in your area, no one will EVER come close to even scratching the surface of a TL safe. Now if you did happen to have professional bank thieves in your area that knew your safe had $750,000 worth of items in it, gluing it down won't stop them. I'm not trying to criticize you, do what you want with your own stuff. Hell; go buy some industrial epoxy, etch the shit out of the floor and bottom of the safe, and it'll never move again. But the reality is, even without securing the safe to any wall/floor, no one without experience, or knowledge, will move that safe. |
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Quoted:
The only issue is a 4800 LB safe would have a lot of lever to pull that bond at the base if it got moving even just a little. In a corner..bond all 3 surfaces. Of course on the other hand..how accessible is the safe ? @ 4800 it would require some fairly sharp people with a well thought out plan to “take it away” if stairs or any real vertical movement is needed. It would be easier to pop the door where it sits in most cases. View Quote Johnson bar, two pallet jacks, wood shims, and a forklift. I have done it twice. It goes fast and nobody saw me do it. No helper. |
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glue down an piece of armored steel with mounting holes that fit the mounting holes in the base of your safe in it. either attach mounting plates to the walls the same way or bolting them in. and as others have said cameras and alarms, and you can make it safer by putting it in a hidden room
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well its in.
They guys said gluing prob wont matter since no one could move it with out specialized equipment anyways. I still glued it |
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You absolutely need to bolt it down. The doors on these thing weigh a ton...with the door all the way open they can tilt if the wrong things happen.
I have a large tl30 composite +myself....it’s bolted down. And a lot of people would be surprised how easy they are to move if you have the right equipment if not bolted down. Me and my 65 year old father in law moved min into my walkout basement in about 30 minutes from off the trailer. Over the sill and all the way across the basement. It’s all about knowing what you’re doing. |
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That’s pry a spendy safe
Can you glue down a base and bolt the safe to that? |
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The guys who are smart and motivate enough to cart off a 5,000 pound safe are the same guys who are smart and motivated enough to break into it where it sits.
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Quoted:
You absolutely need to bolt it down. The doors on these thing weigh a ton...with the door all the way open they can tilt if the wrong things happen. I have a large tl30 composite +myself....it’s bolted down. And a lot of people would be surprised how easy they are to move if you have the right equipment if not bolted down. Me and my 65 year old father in law moved min into my walkout basement in about 30 minutes from off the trailer. Over the sill and all the way across the basement. It’s all about knowing what you’re doing. View Quote It doesnt have holes to bolt it down anyways how big off a safe did you move in 30 minutes? |
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Quoted: the door weighs over 2000lbs and they shimmed it so its level at 22, 45 90 nd 180 degrees it doesnt move. It doesnt have holes to bolt it down anyways how big off a safe did you move in 30 minutes? View Quote It’s all about having the right equipment. All in I only paid $1000 for the safe. Spent 150 to rent a hydraulic drop trailer and safe movers. Sold the time lock off for $150. So all in $1000 |
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Im about to install a composite TL30x6 safe that weighs 4800LBS I don't think I will be able to bolt it to the concrete but the last guy that installed my TL vault said if you put PL premium or construction adhesive under the safe you basically cant move it. He was a bank vault installer/mover and used this technique before What say ye? I was thinking it can hurt but If I ever had to move it I dont know if you could View Quote |
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Quoted: Roughly 6’x2.5’x4’. It’s all about having the right equipment. All in I only paid $1000 for the safe. Spent 150 to rent a hydraulic drop trailer and safe movers. Sold the time lock off for $150. So all in $1000 View Quote Did it have holes for bolts or did you drill them? |
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from what I've found with a minimal poly glue will result in 450,000 Psi shear, and with a 8.5 vector for the size will be 50K plus "tension" in the Y axis do any of you do math or is it all out your ass? View Quote IMHO, just spitballing a number here, but I think 200 PSI would be a likely maximum for bond-strength of glue under your safe. |
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Quoted: In the diamond industry, a TL30x6 affords you the ability to insure up to $750k of merchandise stored inside. It apparently is an insurance industry rule. View Quote In my application, a TL30x6 would likely be insured for $5MM+. |
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what make? Did it have holes for bolts or did you drill them? View Quote Glad I have a composite also seeing as how I have a very good plasma cutter in my garage along with a bunch of other tools for breaking into things. It had holes The bolts on my account are largely to eliminate any chance of the door being open allowing the safe to tip. The odds of a targeted attack by people capable of stealing the safe itself are slim to none. However I don’t see much point in spending all the money for a new RSC when you can find used TL 15 and TL 30 safes for way cheaper. |
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Yes, the glue is strong. The problem is that the concrete isn’t.
The top half-inch of concrete will just break off when you pull it hard enough. Your glue is like using half-inch long bolts. Long bolts are better because you need to break a huge part of the slab and rebar away, which takes a lot more force. That being said, get a camera on it that goes to the cloud and have it text you on motion. Problem solved. |
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