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Posted: 11/6/2018 10:55:53 PM EDT
[#1]
Chuck it up on a drill and use a small flat smooth file to reshape the stem where it meets the pin. I did mine several years ago and have not had an issue with breaking the stem or pin. I rarely have it catch a case mouth now.
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Posted: 11/6/2018 11:09:45 PM EDT
[#2]
You are hitting those fucking crimped pockets. They suck. At least my experience
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Posted: 11/6/2018 11:32:46 PM EDT
[#3]
I have more problems with the primers not releasing on the first handle pull. Have to pump the handle a couple times or more to get the primer to finally drop and then it drops on the floor because it falls through the slot in the ram. Adjusting the pin depth doesn't help much either.
I think the primer must get stuck on the head of the pin and get partially reinserted in the primer pocket on the up stroke. 
A tapered pin would be nice. Shaping the shoulder of the decap rod on the grinder sounds like a good idea too. |
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Posted: 11/6/2018 11:45:16 PM EDT
[#4]
I always put mine to the grindstone to taper them for that very same reason.
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Posted: 11/7/2018 12:11:21 AM EDT
[#5]
Loosen the die and give it a quarter turn, or straighten up the pin, it’s bent a little.
Don’t push so hard...if ya gotta force it....don’t |
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Posted: 11/7/2018 12:20:37 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Chuck it up on a drill and use a small flat smooth file to reshape the stem where it meets the pin. I did mine several years ago and have not had an issue with breaking the stem or pin. I rarely have it catch a case mouth now. |
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Posted: 11/7/2018 8:06:31 AM EDT
[#7]
I hit mine on a fine stone grinder and tapered it, haven't had a problem since.
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Posted: 11/7/2018 8:56:01 AM EDT
[#8]
I had a similar problem (primers hanging on the decapping pin and being pulled back up into the pocket just enough to stick) but on 9MM brass (one brand, don't remember which one.
Someone on the CZ Forum suggested modifying the end of the decapping pin. It worked for me. Just hit the end of it on a hobby belt sander to put an angle on it. |
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Posted: 11/7/2018 11:56:48 AM EDT
[#9]
I chucked mine in a drill and tapered the stem AND the pin and after I was finished with the tapering, I ran it against a buffing wheel with jewelers rouge.
ZERO problems with sticking now. Actually, I polish all the expander balls in my dies; it helps prevent neck stretch when pulling the stem out and when paired with case neck graphite, it's slick as ice. |
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Posted: 11/7/2018 12:35:03 PM EDT
[#10]
Buy hardened pins on Amazon. I didn't find out about these until I bought a stack of regular pins. I broke a pin the first day in the first 50 rounds I de-capped. Now that I have a stack, I bet I never break another one.
 I have de-capped several thousand cases after that. I do mainly .223 and .308 and don't have the issue OP describes. Last pin I bent, I hit a rock.
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Posted: 11/7/2018 12:53:09 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The end of the rod is square, you have to make it tapered. |
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Posted: 11/7/2018 5:22:22 PM EDT
[#12]
Buy a Mighty Armory decapping die and be done with it.
I made the jump this summer when I got tired of breaking and bending chinesium Lee pins. Best $35 I spent on something that removes an annoyance. Ran 6000 pieces thru it on my LnL, crimped rifle, pistol, etc, no issues. |
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Posted: 11/7/2018 6:54:42 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Buy a Mighty Armory decapping die and be done with it. I made the jump this summer when I got tired of breaking and bending chinesium Lee pins. Best $35 I spent on something that removes an annoyance. Ran 6000 pieces thru it on my LnL, crimped rifle, pistol, etc, no issues. |
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Posted: 11/7/2018 9:07:50 PM EDT
[#14]
My LYMAN decapping die had a single piece rod and pin. It worked for decades. When I broke the pin, I bought a Sinclair decapping die to replace it.
Yes, money well spent. It should last me the rest of my life. |
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Posted: 11/7/2018 9:10:56 PM EDT
[#15]
Another vote for taper it on a grinder and run.
When I mount a Case Kicker on the press, the process just runs very fast and smooth. The Dillon Super Swage tweaks and the Case Kicker on the press, means starting up a batch of crimped primers is no big deal. To go any faster I have to run through a 1050 or modified 650. I don't run into once fired Mil-Spec brass as much as I used to. |
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Posted: 11/7/2018 9:53:13 PM EDT
[#16]
I use the Squirrell Daddy hardened tapered pin on amazon. Works much better for those stubborn crimped primers.
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Posted: 11/8/2018 3:22:08 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Buy a Mighty Armory decapping die and be done with it. I made the jump this summer when I got tired of breaking and bending chinesium Lee pins. Best $35 I spent on something that removes an annoyance. Ran 6000 pieces thru it on my LnL, crimped rifle, pistol, etc, no issues. |
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Posted: 11/8/2018 9:07:28 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Buy a Mighty Armory decapping die and be done with it. I made the jump this summer when I got tired of breaking and bending chinesium Lee pins. Best $35 I spent on something that removes an annoyance. Ran 6000 pieces thru it on my LnL, crimped rifle, pistol, etc, no issues. Dammit... ARFcom has cost me money AGAIN.
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Posted: 11/9/2018 10:35:42 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Never heard of them before, but now that I have, I'm gonna get one. Dammit... ARFcom has cost me money AGAIN. Also, buy the AP .070" pins, they are significantly stronger. |
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Posted: 11/9/2018 11:05:46 AM EDT
[#20]
I decap everything with a Frankford Arsenal hand decapping unit before wet tumbling and have never had problems with mil crimped primers. It takes a little extra squeeze but they pop right out.
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Posted: 11/9/2018 11:23:24 AM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
It seems like every other case the case mouth hits the stem on the decapping pin and I have to finagle the case. Doesn't someone make a tapered replacement pin? I had the same issue on bulk reloading. I kept breaking the pins. I put it in the trash and switched to a Dillon. No issues since. |
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Posted: 11/9/2018 12:58:04 PM EDT
[#22]
I got my first Lee Universal Decapping Die in 1998, have not broken the origional decapping pin.
Have decapped all my cases before wet tumbling, at least 10K cases. 1) Collet is adjusted correctly to let it slip and raise up on a Berdan case, but will still decap a crimped primer. 2) When abnormal resistance is incountered I stop and find the problem. If you "power through" you break things. This applies to all areas of reloading. Case sizing, seating bullets, decapping, crimping, ect. |
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Posted: 11/14/2018 5:14:55 AM EDT
[#23]
Oddly enough, when I am decapping 223/556 brass using same decapping die in a Lee Hand Press I experience very little of the issue I've described (case mouth hitting the squared-off edge of the decapping rod)
Weird. In any case I use the hand press very little compared to my two bench mounted single stage presses. As an interim I am having someone with more tools than I taper the existing stem on the Lee die. Purchase from Mighty Armory forthcoming. |
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Posted: 11/14/2018 12:00:18 PM EDT
[#24]
Make sure your cases are all the way into the shell holder before raising the ram. There is zero play in the Lee Decapper's rod, so if the case isn't centered, the rod is going to hit the case mouth. It's way more noticeable on .22 caliber cases too.
After that, do what dryflash3 says and taper that rod a bit. It isn't hard to do and will help things move a lot easier. SOME brands of brass have factory primers that...suck. PRVI primers, for example, tend to buckle internally so the anvil just distorts the bottom of the cup instead of pushing it out. For those, sometimes you may need to use a manual decapping pin (I use the manual pin from an old Lee Loader set), but when this happens on a press, you wind up taking the case out IN THE SHELL HOLDER because the distorted primer cup locks the case into it. 
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Posted: 11/14/2018 12:51:56 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use the Squirrell Daddy hardened tapered pin on amazon. Works much better for those stubborn crimped primers. |
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Posted: 11/14/2018 5:27:16 PM EDT
[#26]
A Mighty Armory "Magnum" decapping die and primer pocket swage kit are en route.
(they also gave me 10% off for the whole shebang by typing the word reloading in the coupon code box at checkout) |
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Posted: 11/14/2018 6:29:24 PM EDT
[#27]
Good call. Those guys have some excellent stuff.
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Posted: 11/15/2018 2:32:51 AM EDT
[#28]
Where is Mighty Armory located? Didn't see anything on the website.
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Posted: 11/15/2018 2:40:22 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use the Squirrell Daddy hardened tapered pin on amazon. Works much better for those stubborn crimped primers. |
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Posted: 11/15/2018 7:51:14 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Where is Mighty Armory located? Didn't see anything on the website. |
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Posted: 11/15/2018 10:59:55 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A Mighty Armory "Magnum" decapping die and primer pocket swage kit are en route. (they also gave me 10% off for the whole shebang by typing the word reloading in the coupon code box at checkout) I used a Lee die for 70k rounds and for the most part, they are pretty good. In that time I probably went thru a dozen pins. Some got bent, but I wore a couple out too. This includes Squirrel Daddy pins, Lee pins that were chamfered, etc. |
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Posted: 11/17/2018 7:11:01 PM EDT
[#32]
When using the Lee 9mm Resizing Die to deprime/resize brass about half the time I hear a distinctive little "PLING" sound when the end of the pin pushes out the primer. Sounds like someone is plucking a harp string.
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Posted: 11/17/2018 8:46:31 PM EDT
[#33]
What's the point of decapping 5.56 brass, why not just do it during the resizing process? Seems like it adds an unnecessary step...
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Posted: 11/17/2018 9:42:09 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's the point of decapping 5.56 brass, why not just do it during the resizing process? Seems like it adds an unnecessary step... |
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Posted: 11/18/2018 12:46:38 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When using the Lee 9mm Resizing Die to deprime/resize brass about half the time I hear a distinctive little "PLING" sound when the end of the pin pushes out the primer. Sounds like someone is plucking a harp string. I throw those cases in the scrap brass bucket. |
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Posted: 11/19/2018 7:08:17 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That "pling" sound is the decapping pin returning to center after being driven off center by an out of spec flashole. (trying to not say off center flashole as I already used center twice in that sentence) I throw those cases in the scrap brass bucket. Oh, and the Mighty Armory stuff arrived today. SWEET! This is quality stuff! Machining and finish is first-rate! |
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