Available on BE Meyer's website here: click is a downloadable pdf of a zeroing target.  If you have a lower 1/3 mounted optic, you'll have an easier time, but if you don't, you simply move the laser until your shots hit where you want (depending on the type of zero you're running) while the visible or IR lasers are kept within the area of the target designated as such.  You do this at 20 meters and pick a 100m zero, a 50/200m zero, or a 300m zero, and theoretically, you'll be "on" at that particular distance.

Pretty slick.

I've used Telluric Groups's targets that are similar, except they are meant to be used at 25m and come with a reflective center target, and, as I understand, are made to be used with the IR laser of the corresponding device, since the IR laser and visual laser don't share the exact same point source.

I noticed "something" odd about the BE Meyers target, but couldnt put my finger on it.  Stealing from Telluric Group's great idea of using something reflective to help keep the laser properly aligned at distance, I glued small squares of aluminum foil to the visible laser area, and went to my indoor range.   I got the laser aligned according to the BE Meyers target.  When I returned home, I found some Telluric targets for the ATPIAL-C and DBAL A-3, and noticing what I perceive to be a great difference in the 100, 200 and 300 meter "short range zero" locations on the two targets, I immediately ordered some Telluric Targets for the MAWL, which I received today.

Note that the BE Meyers target shows all of the zero points above the X/Y coordinates of the visible laser, and only one of them below the coordinates of the IR Laser, while the Telluric targets show the zero points as all below the X/Y coordinates of the IR Laser. I realize that one target is meant for 20m and the other meant for 25m, but the variance between targets is too great, and, I believe, inverse of what would happen if there were two targets that were identical other than one being made for 20m and the other made for 25m.

I'll update when I make some measurements and speak to the companies, as both BE Meyers and Telluric are closed today, but as you can see from the attached, there are significant differences regarding where the zero point lie.  Also noteworthy is that the horizontal distance from bore to laser differs between the two targets, though not as much as the vertical difference.  Thsi should be pretty easy to confirm, and I'd think that the Meyers target would be accurate in this regard, however everything else with this target seems off.

I will update this thread, but unfortunately, its going to take a few days for me to be able to zero using the target(s) and check the actual zero accuracy at distance.

If anyone knows, for instance, that one or the other targets is known to be erroneous, please let me know.

thanks!

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One is a 20m target and the other a 25m target?

One target is for 55gr ammo.  The difference between 20 and 25m using 55gr ammo and a 300m zero would be about a half inch.  If the other target is based off a different ammo that could also be part of the difference.

Or one of the targets could be wrong.  Wouldn't be the first time.

Correct.  
Personally, I do not notice several inches in vertical POI change between 20m and 25m.

Also, these targets both factor in constant horizontal offset, so the horizontal POI should not differ between them.

Bump

I use the intersecting zero that requires no live fire or targets. At night with a already zeroed RDS rifle, set your RDS to NV or the lowest setting, pick the furthest target that you can reach with your IR laser and overlap your IR laser to your RDS dot. Your LAM is now zeroed and you will have the same exact hold overs as your RDS.

BUMP for attn

^ says the guy that sells the targets!  

In all seriousness, I think this is the right answer.  Still wondering why Telluric’s and Meyers’ are different and schedule has kept me from finding out which one is (more) correct.

Ive never used a target to zero my lasers.  I zero my optic and then I adjust the laser to the optic's zero.  Ive never had an issue doing it that way.

Youre using a converging zero...and not parallel

Yeah I know and it works fine. Just make sure you do it at long range and not close up.  Zero the laser to the rds out as far as you can - like 300 or 400 yds.  Then confirm by shooting.

^ That

A parallel zero as perfect as you can get it and a converging zero as far as you can actually see the IR pointer are usually the exact same setting anyways.