Before you get your panties in a bunch, the standard barrel crown is fine to start with.
Hence looks like this, with the end of the barrel still rounded.
If you do want the 11* crown, go for it, but its not going to solve the problem of the factory ballard rifled barrel isntead.
So for the new marlin 1894 barrels, be advice that they are Ballard rifled barrels, being that the rifling is a shallow cut one, and the bores are slightly over sizes as well. If you plan on shooting cast bullets through the barrel, they will need to be sized int he .432~.433" range.
So jacketed bullets at .429" will shot so-so through the barrel, but factory bought cast or plated bullets at .429~ .430" are not going to shoot though the barrel with any type of groupings isntead. Same goes for factory loaded lead bullet ammo as well.
If you are going to reload for the rifle, then jacket bullets at .431" are the ticket if you don't cast,
http://www.evergladesammo.com/bullets/handgun-bullets.html?caliber=527
Now regarding store bought cast bullets, since I know of no one selling .433" 44 mag cast bullets, you are left with casting your own bullets isntead.
Myself since I cast , started with a lee 310gr mold, top faced it and polished the mold out to cast a 270gr bullet at .432", and after powder coating and resizing, end up with a bullet that is .4325" to run through the marlin's 1894's instead (both micro grooved and Ballard rifled barrels).
With powder coating and the FP bullet cast from 18 brinell lead, the bullets can be pushed at over 2K without leading the barrel with the need of a gas check, plus with the bullet correctly sized for the barrels, will tack drive at well (moa at 100 yards).
Note, 270Gr at close to 2KFPS threw a light lever gun is a beast in regards to recoil. Such loads work well for hunting when you are only to shoot a few, but don't make an outing target shooting such loads by the hundreds in a day instead. Hence come up with a slower load for such events isntead.
If you want a lighter bullet for plicking instead, the Lee 200gr mold may suit you better, but will still need to polish out the mold cavities, since in stock form, the mold will only cast a .429" bullet.
If you are looking to shoot only store bought ammo threw the rifle, then my suggestion is to not buy a marlin, but look into another brand rifle that it's barrel does not have shallow rifling, which will shoot factory ammo better isntead.
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If you are going to cast for the rifle, or buy the correct sized jacketed bullets to reload for the rifle, then the rifle you want is the marlin 1894 CB rifle. The CB rifle sports a slightly heaver octagon barrel, adds a touch more forward weight, and steadies the rifle better for free hand shooting isntead. Hence this is the base rifle that you want to start with, and then if needed, an action job done to it instead.
So starting with a CB and action job if you don't have the talent to do this yourself,
For added options, yes on the safety delete screw, yes on the factory rear sight dove tail delete block, maybe on the 11* crown if you really think is going to make a difference (which I don't), but for rear sight, no on the tang mounted sights since your going to run a skinner express rear sight that will bolt up on the top of receiver that is already ready drill and taped instead. Hence the tang mounted sight is just too fragile over-all for a saddle type rifle, where the skinner express is dam near bullet proof isntead.
http://www.skinnersights.com/1894_marlin_33.html
Also, do not change the front sight on the rifle until you come up with a load for the rifle, and then figure out the needed front sight height to begin with. Standard loads, hence med loads around 1200fps, the front sight is the correct height. For full power loads, hence closing close to 2K fps, you are going to need a taller front sight instead. Also to point out, on the standard rifle with the front sight hood, the hood is too low to start with for a decent sight picture, so it get removed to either run the rifle without the hood, or you mod a taller win Pre 64 model 70 front sight hood to fit the front sight isntead.
Now, if you are getting the rifle for Cowboy action shooting, then you do not want it in 44 mag or even 45lc!!!!
Instead, your looking for a rifle in 357/38, or if you can find one, in 32 H&R instead.
Marlin 1894CB in 357/38 special,but will still have the same factory ammo problem since it has a Ballard rifled barrel too.
https://www.marlinfirearms.com/lever-action/model-1894/model-1894cb
The reason for this, Cowboy match shooting is done with black powder loads, lightest bullet you can find for that caliber since it only has to go 400fps; and lack of recoil, on a action that cycles fast, is the name of the game to winning isntead.
So to sum it up, I really like the marlin 1894 actions, since pulling the bolt to clean the barrel from the back end is a snap. Also it has a very strong action, so full load 44 mag loads are not a problem. Short of a 1873 with a short stroke kit, it has a one of the fastest/shortest action you will find factory. But with it comes to barrel rifling, here is the glitch to the guns, since you really need to use the correct size jacket bullet when you are reloading,cast a large enough bullet to fit the bore correctly if you are going to reload cast bullets, or the rifle is just not going to shoot tight groups isntead (this means a no to factory loaded ammo shooting tight in the rifle).