Good evening,

I just bought this to mount my first real scope.  The question I have is that the manual says to line up the red line with the torque hash marks.  Well, the red line is rather thick.  Should you use the leading edge or trailing edge of the red line?

FWIW, I split the difference and aligned the hash marks in the middle of the red line..

Thanks

You will be ok doing that. 1-3 inch lbs on a 25-35 in-lbs install range like as not isn't going to make that much of a difference. This coming from someone who installed a ton of scopes 30-40 years ago before anyone ever thought about using a torque wrench on ring screws.

That said, I  did buy a in-lbs torque wrench as soon as I found one, and currently have been using the Wheeler wrench since they came out.

Thanks

Don't worry, the Wheeler isn't that accurate anyway.

Is there a more accurate thing available that the average person can justify buying?  I’m in the market for one. There’s not a lot out there, or my google fu skills are really slipping ?????.  I’m just looking for something for scope bases, scope rings, action screws, etc.

I’ve never used one in the past, but my “tight’s tight; too tight’s broke” mentality has on occasion stripped some cheap chinesium pot metal. I’ve tried using a small beam style torque wrench marked in in/lb, but those things generally suck at best.  I’d do a better job with an Allen wrench or screwdriver.

In my opinion, the most accurate would be a 1/4" drive in-lb deflecting beam torque wrench which has been calibrated and certified. Those run north of $100. Un-certified run about $30. Old school and not tacticool.

Fixitsticks makes a nice product.  They have several different kits with multiple torque limiters as well as an adjustable one.

They are not the cheapest option out there.  Midway usually has competitive prices on them.

IMO the fat wrench will handle almost everything needed without breaking the bank.

Joat